welding with batteries
Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:12
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Member - Damien L (Cairns)
Hi all,
I have done a search on this subject here and the only one that comes up is a blog mentioning welding.
My questions are;
1, What equipment do I need.
2, will two 100amp hr deep cycle batts do the job.
3, The blog mentioned regulating the amperage, How do I do this.
Thanks for any help,
Damien
Reply By: Mick O - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:38
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:38
Damien,
I can't search the
forum at present as I seem to have lost the thread options at the top left of the page. If you do a
forum search under "bush welding" you should turn up a few more threads including one of
mine from about 18 months ago that was quite comprehensive on the topic. I had asked the same question on how to regulate ampage in a more controlled way. You would need a rheostat which is both heavy and expensive.
There is also a good article on the LCcool (landcruiser site) that explains DC welding pretty
well. We did a lot of it this year using both stick and three batteries and my new readywelder, a 12/24 MIG welder that I got from the states. Haven't had a chance to get those
blogs or video up as yet.
I managed to grab that thread through google so here it is;
Bush welding threadBushwelding blog and videoAnother EO bush welding thread
Hope that helps.
Cheers Mick
AnswerID:
435024
Follow Up By: Member - Damien L (Cairns) - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:52
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:52
G'day Mick,
Great help thanks.
I am a very basic welder but nothing I have welded yet has failed. I use the big hammer test on all welds, bash it hard a few times if it holds its OK.
I am assuming 500 amp jumper leads to link batts and welding cables for the final will suffice.
I had not heard of using the negative to give more thickness before, is this OK to do.
Damien
FollowupID:
706122
Follow Up By: Mick O - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:59
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 21:59
Damien,
I'm no technical expert myself. The reverse polarity is expained in the article from the LCool website that I've been scouring my hard drive trying to find. I used heavy duty welding cables fittd with battery terminals for the connecting and a standard earth clip and hand piece from the local welding supply place. Jumper leads will get awfully hot and tend to melt pretty quickly if you get a long duty cycle. We also did a lot of experimenting with rods this year. John and Scotty got the best results so I'll encourage him to give a reply as to the best rods for the DC job. The ready welder is a great investment though.
Cheers Mick.
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FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:14
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:14
Mick O!!
Have you tried CIG Weldall, they are basically a stailnless rad but will weld any dissimilar metals and springs with fantastic results. Stainless steel of course, handy for tanks etc.. They add material very quickly from the rod without reversing the polarity, not tending to burn away the parent metal as normal rods tend to.. You can buy a handyman pack of about 10 of each 2,5mm and 3.2 mm for about $35, both sizes included.. They are worth every cent and are readily available from most engineeering suppliers... regards Michael
FollowupID:
706126
Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:14
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:14
OOPPS ,,, stainless rod... damn typos.... Michael
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706127
Follow Up By: Member - Damien L (Cairns) - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:25
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:25
Thanks Mick and Michael,
I have looked at LCool site and good info there.
I will look into the stainless rods as
well.
By reading your
blogs and threads a mix of battery types wont matter. I will have two Deep cycles on the tug plus two in the trailer and 1 crank.
All I need now is a lot of practice, then hoping I will not need to use the setup.
Damien
FollowupID:
706129
Follow Up By: dbish - Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:25
Wednesday, Nov 03, 2010 at 22:25
Hi Michael 2nd that CIG weld all very good I also carry a pack in the van for 2x battery welding. Daryl
FollowupID:
706130
Follow Up By: Robin Miller - Friday, Nov 05, 2010 at 10:16
Friday, Nov 05, 2010 at 10:16
Just one thing Damien - if you have the choice don't use 500amps leads , 200amp rated is more than enough. (assuming unregulated stick welding here)
The 200 amp leads 2m long will provide some reulation to the peak current and limit battery damage.
These leads will get warmer , but when they do its time to rest them and the batteries for a few minutes.
FollowupID:
706261
Reply By: Member - mazcan - Thursday, Nov 04, 2010 at 17:17
Thursday, Nov 04, 2010 at 17:17
hi all
i shuddered when i saw the photos on here how you all were doing this bush welding
you are lucky that nothing happened out in the isolated areas
we all know that mick o likes things that go bang ahla his tyre fitting techniques lol but
i'm offering
a sincere word of warning to all who attempt bush welding
please shield the batteries from any sparks from both angle grinders and or welding with something that is non flamable
you were all in danger of being severely burnt by battery acid and been cut by pieces of exploding battery box
having witnessed 2 batteries exploding in a workshop on 2 seperate occasions
and the acid and bits of box flying upto 4 mtrs in every direction
and
i was unfortunate to have been in the shed both times it was caused by the same casual bloke
and no it was not me
and luckily i only recieved a minor acid burn which i wont ever forget how painfull this was
it;s worse than hot steel
and before you tell me they were sealed batteries it made no difference to one of the batteries i referred to above
cheers
AnswerID:
435068
Follow Up By: Voxson - Friday, Nov 05, 2010 at 09:12
Friday, Nov 05, 2010 at 09:12
I can ditto your comments about explosion.
I was also in a workshop where a battery was on a charger and somebody welded near it and "BOOM" in an instant.
Battery acid, plastic schrapnel,,, what a mess......
Be careful with the batteries around sparks as they will go up......
But apart from that,,, from time to time we have needed to use our batteries for welding and it has always been as simple as hooking the two in series with no regulator,,, an hour or so of welding and then back in the car with no starting hassles at all....
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Nov 04, 2010 at 22:37
Thursday, Nov 04, 2010 at 22:37
Gday Damien,
Experiment with it at home - its better to learn on a piece of scrap than a part of your car's
suspension.
We used to practice at some of our 4wd club training days.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Johny boy (NSW) - Friday, Nov 05, 2010 at 09:33
Friday, Nov 05, 2010 at 09:33
Hi Damien,
I was given a 2 mtr length of weling cable and a clamp so I went out and bought a hand piece to hold the rod I put it all together and threw in about 20 x 2 mm rods and a spare welding glass this all curls up neatly in my little compressor box so its with me everytime we go off road or away, I had to use it on our last trip and let me tell you, it really works and when your out in the middle of nowhere it may be all it takes to strand you or get you back on the road even to get you to a town that can weld it profesonally, I also have some home made jumper leads very heavy and old but handy I used 2 batts connected the handpiece to the NEG of 1 batt and then ran the batts in series with the jumpers IE 1 lead to connect the earth to pos of the 2nd batt which then means you have a pos and neg to join between the 2 batts with the 2nd jumper lead, we kept testing the batts with a multy metre and there seemed to be no V loss ,like I said small outlay takes up very little room yet gives you some piece of mind . ( and I agree protect the batts from any sparks)
Cheers John.
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706258