Electric Brakes

Submitted: Saturday, Nov 27, 2010 at 21:48
ThreadID: 82723 Views:5719 Replies:7 FollowUps:7
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G'day , I've been pulling my hair out for past few days with these brakes on my Jayco camper trailer
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Basically the tekonsha p3 wont lock Alko brakes & can barely feel them activate, there is good voltage & 2.5 amps to each magnet. I also tried driving off with the handbrake fully up & the car took off without much drag , just a bit of a groan.

I have adjusted the brakes so they hardly spin freely & I still have 5mm of brake on the shoes .. Here's a picture



Anyone have any suggestions ?
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Reply By: Member - Joe T (NT) - Saturday, Nov 27, 2010 at 22:03

Saturday, Nov 27, 2010 at 22:03
By the look of it, your brake lining is all worn out.

5mm = worn-out

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AnswerID: 437088

Follow Up By: skmaint (WA) - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 00:44

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 00:44
Mine were only 6mm new...
Cheers
Simon.
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Reply By: V8 Troopie - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 00:28

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 00:28
Try this:
Jack up the wheel and disconnect the brakes from the trailer wiring temporarily.
Have a 12V battery handy to connect the brakes in an instant. Spin up the wheel by hand and connect the wires - the wheel should lock up instantly.

If it does not check if you have left & right brakes fitted in the right place.
Also, check the wiring. Check if the magnet 'floats' on the arm, it must be able to move axially a little to 'stick' to the flat brake surface inside the hub. Work the whole magnet arm by hand and see if the brake shoes move out correctly.

On my boat trailer there are similar electric brakes (10" size) and 4 of them pull up a 2.5 ton rig no worries. I did measure the current to the magnets individually once and they took 4A each. But I get only 8A total on the dash mounted Amp meter (home made controller) which is plenty to lock up the wheels at low speed. Trailer connector & wiring loss do take a toll with heavy currents.

BTW, 5mm is plenty of material on the brake shoes, its only 6mm thick when new. I usually replace them when worn down to 3mm.

Before you put it all together again apply a little antiseize paste to the adjuster thread, you'll appreciate that later when the time comes to adjust the brakes.
AnswerID: 437097

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 07:36

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 07:36
Thanks a lot for the replies.
I actually tried that with a battery directly connected to the trailer brake pins & both wheels were too hard to turn by hand. This is also the case when I use the brake controller override & manual handbrake. However I don't think it's enough braking to slow down the trailer.

I know what you mean about lubricating the brake starwheel adjustor it's hard to move.

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FollowupID: 708549

Reply By: Dunaruna - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 08:23

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 08:23
When you fully activate the slide control, what voltage reading are you seeing?
AnswerID: 437111

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:01

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:01
When I put it on full I see 12.7v on the display & about 11.7v at the hubs..
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FollowupID: 708554

Follow Up By: Dunaruna - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:20

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:20
If the magnet was connected when you performed the voltage test, the voltage at the hubs is good.

Offroad magnets (that's what you have) will draw 3 to 4 amps when fully activated. The magnet in the pic is contaminated and worn. I suggest you replace both magnets and machine the drum magnet surface. It will then stick like the proverbial.
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FollowupID: 708555

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:38

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:38
Cheers, plenty of good suggestions from everyone here.
Yeah I think I'll just go buy new magnets, drums & new shoes, then I don't need to worry about it for a few years. All up will be $400..

The drums are $68 each so not sure how much cheaper it would be to machine the inside surface & magnet surface ..
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FollowupID: 708556

Reply By: Member - Toyocrusa (NSW) - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:06

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 09:06
G'day ss. Try putting a spanner or something steel on the magnet with the controller slide on full power. You should not be able to pull the metal off the magnet. If that is ok then possibly the magnet face on the drum is worn to the extent that the magnet can't "grab"onto it correctly. Bob

AnswerID: 437118

Reply By: Member - Teege (NSW) - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 12:59

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 12:59
ss
I had a similar problem with my (now deceased) Jayco camper. The brakes wouldn't work when were on a trip, but whenever I took it to the dealer to check they were fine. We eventually discovered that problem was in the earth. The existing earth was not strong enough to work the brakes when the fridge was operating on 12 volt. Tow it without the fridge being turned on (which was the case each time I took it to the dealer) and the brakes worked perfectly. Solution - run a heavy earth right through the system, tug and camper.

I hope this helps.

teege
AnswerID: 437144

Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 17:13

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 17:13
I had the same problem a few years ago, on trip they were fine and the next, they wouldnt lock the wheels. When you rode the controller for a while and warmed the drums up, they were fine but didnt really work as original. I never found the problem but i think it may be a combination of brake shoe and magnet wear.. It still confounds me how they can work perfectly on trip and not the next. Michael
AnswerID: 437172

Reply By: PradOz - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 22:35

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 22:35
i thought your original post about this said these brakes worked fine when towed by last car?? if so why woulld the brakes be the problem?? also i originally thought you had a 120 prado, but now think you may have the new 150?? and i remember reading in a couple places not to fit the brake controllor wire direct to brake switch, but better to run a separate line to rear light. not sure what you ended up doing with that blue brake cable. you could test it by running one separate lying loose inside vehicle and tie into brake light and controllor just to check if it works. if it does reroute it, if not pull it out - good luck with it....
AnswerID: 437210

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 22:54

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 22:54
Hi yeah I've got the 150 prado never had a 120. This brake controller worked in my previous car towing this camper but that was about 8mth ago. The wiring seems all ok I wired the brake wire to the tail light & the blue wire to the prado blue wire near the tail light. I'm pretty sure it's not the brake controller or car as I get 11volts 3 amps at each magnet.
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FollowupID: 708646

Follow Up By: PradOz - Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 23:35

Sunday, Nov 28, 2010 at 23:35
did you use a bigger cable? i did on my 120 despite a localauto elec saying to save money by sing thin cable.

i also ran my earth cable in thicker cable. same with the towbar plug hotwire and earth there too. actually bought a 12 pin plug and socket just to get the thicker cables in including the blue electric brake cable. i also didnt use the supplied blue cable tied up inbehind the light, i ran my own which wasnt hard as mine was thicker. i also tend to think the more joins in any cable the worse it is and with a join at front before the controller i eliminated another one by running my own blue cable all the way. prob makes no difference?? jus ran thicker cables to ando plugs for van battery charging whilst on the go today

I remember reading (not sure which forum) that you should replace the cables to the electric brakes on the van to thiciker size just same as the earth and the fridge cables all for same reasons you run thicker cable for fridges, dual batteries etc. not sure if yor existing cable is ok on the camper, but presume it would be ok or at least good enough since it worked before for you 8 months back. most people run thicker cables on their cars and forget about the campers, vans etc. not sure if this helps at all in your case....

ps - why dont you try tow someone elses van or camper and see how your car and controller reacts to the different tow - cheers

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FollowupID: 708648

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