Brake controller, not really controlling

Submitted: Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 12:57
ThreadID: 83269 Views:3310 Replies:6 FollowUps:1
This Thread has been Archived
Using the manual override slide, I get great braking as I would expect.

Pressing the brake lever, I get the red light come up, indicating something is working, but no noticable braking.

I put a meter on it, and with the brake depressed I get about 2 volts showing at the plug, with the manual slide, I think I got around 10 - 12volts.

I need to get back down a great big hill, so not real keen pulling the controller apart, but does anyone have any suggestions???

Many thanks again

Troy
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 14:02

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 14:02
The make of controller the make of vehicle etc may get some more helpful answers


AnswerID: 439912

Reply By: V8 Troopie - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 17:26

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 17:26
Troy, measuring voltages with electric brakes is a waste of time. These magnets are powered by current (Amps).

Try this: Connect a 10A meter in series with the blue electric brake wire, you may have to open the trailer plug to get at it.
have somebody step on the brake pedal while you read the current on the meter.

Full on this should be around 3 amp per brake drum, so for a single axle trailer expect around 6A.
That's in manual off course, it gives you an idea all is OK at the brake side.

This current *is* dependent on the quality of the wiring (size and connections).

On my car I fitted a small A-meter permanently (digital reading, via shunt) which gives me an instant report if any of the 4 electric brake magnets is not working properly.

Since the controller's automatic braking is dependent on speed you may have to devise some means to simulate this, I have no idea what type speed sensor your controller uses. Mine works in manual only, I prefer the trailer to brake before the car brakes fully bite.

AnswerID: 439929

Follow Up By: Dennis Ellery - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 19:43

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 19:43
Hi V8
I prefer a manual controller too – 30 years ago I nearly wiped myself out jack-knifing a trailer at speed.
A manual controller is safer in this situation as you can pull yourself straight more effectively with a light pressure on the brake pedal.
Regards Dennis
0
FollowupID: 711820

Reply By: Roughasguts - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 17:42

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 17:42
Does your brake controller have a pendulum in other words operated by inertia!

So standing still the brake will only operate at a low rate, but if you jam the brake on at speed the pendulem moves suddnely forward and makes sure the trailer brakes get more voltage or current.

Have you a adjustment on the controller so you can fine tune the trailer brakes when not using the slide control.

when you use the manual slide you over ride the inertia brake effect and get max voltage.

Cheers
AnswerID: 439931

Reply By: henpecked - Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 23:03

Monday, Dec 27, 2010 at 23:03
Troy, to test braking voltage, extend the leads of your voltmeter so as you can have it in the cabin with you. Have an off-sider read the voltage when you brake at different speeds with different brake pressure. (Van not attached of course)
The harder you brake the higher the voltage reading should be.
AnswerID: 439980

Reply By: snailbait (Blue mntns) - Tuesday, Dec 28, 2010 at 08:56

Tuesday, Dec 28, 2010 at 08:56
Try adjusting the brakes as the magnets have a short swing . The brake adjustment is very sensitive ALKO advise adjust the brakes so the wheel spins 1/2 to 3/4 and stops. look up that sight
Terry
Life MEMBER snailbait Oberon HF RADIO CLUB VKE237 mobile 7661

Lifetime Member
My Profile  Send Message

AnswerID: 439992

Reply By: Bap - Tuesday, Dec 28, 2010 at 15:50

Tuesday, Dec 28, 2010 at 15:50
Troy,
Brad said drag your feet on the ground!!
Nah, seriously - hope you get it sorted! And try not get bogged again!
Cheers
Michelle
AnswerID: 440025

Sponsored Links

Popular Products (9)