Charging batteries while base camping

We have just got back from camping at Charlie Morland SFP.

After 4 days our batteries went flat. This was totally expected as we run a fridge, lights, shoer etc from two batteries (approx 220 amps all up). Normally after this period of time I would find a power source (240V) and recharge the batteries or buy ice!

This time however we were flooded in with 1.5m of water over the causeway and couldn't get out. What I ended up doing was use my jumper leads and recharged the 120amp battery from the truck for one hour. This seemed to give us plenty for another 24hrs and then we were able to cross the creek and come home. It had become way too muddy to stay put.

The question I have is this an acceptable way to charge batteries or is there a better way, Remember we are base camping and I can"t use a generator and solar power I feel would not have worked as it rained the whole time and we only saw the sun briefly while packing up.

David
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Reply By: Ruffy-Dan - Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 12:39

Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 12:39
Hi David,
It is perfectly acceptable to charge your battery in the manner you did as it is no different to a basic dual battery system. Depending on the model of your vehicle and the type of battery you are runningYou will most likely not achieve a 100% charge this way but for a few days camping recharging to 80 or 90% will give you your desired result.

Dan
AnswerID: 440190

Follow Up By: Daredevildave - Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 16:39

Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 16:39
Hi Dan

Thanks for the reply

Normally you use an isolator or regulator to charge a battery from your vehicle, hence dual battery management systems. I was concerned I might have been doing harm to either my starting battery which is much smaller or to my camping battery which is a marine type. I would like to have something in place for future use as we camp for long periods at least once or twice a year.

I will still probably go solar in the near future.

David
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Follow Up By: Member - John and Val - Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 17:33

Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 17:33
David,

Dan's absolutely right. The $100+ isolators/regulators/battery management systems simply connect the auxilliary battery to the main battery once charging voltage is available, and disconnect when it's not. Exactly what you did manually. In practice, once the engine is running you have charging voltage, when it's stopped you don't. I'd connect and disconnect at idling speed to minimise any chance of transients, but basicly do exactly what you've done.

Cheers

John
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Reply By: stevie1947 - Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 13:17

Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 13:17
How about a wind generator. Just google and see whats around. There was an earlier thread I think about this subject.
Steve
AnswerID: 440194

Reply By: Member - Brian A (QLD) - Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 17:37

Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 17:37
Hi
It really does however highlight a somewhat silly situation when one can use a vehicle to recharge batteries, but not a generator; especially so, when most modern true sine generators are usually quieter than a 4x4 vehicle. Perhaps the better solution would be to place a decibel limit on the noise allowed! That way at least, if you had a 'noisy' vehicle, you would need a 'quiet' generator and vice versa.
Regards
Brian
AnswerID: 440220

Follow Up By: dereki - Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 22:10

Thursday, Dec 30, 2010 at 22:10
Yep..

Some places allow gens between certain hours only to charge batteries. I think the problem generally is that people have just left the genny running 24/7 to power stuff, instead of just charging. You wouldn't leave your car running all night to run the fridge tho.

I would like to see more places allow quiet gennys within limited hours for charging purposes.

D
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Follow Up By: Pete Jackman (SA) - Friday, Dec 31, 2010 at 11:16

Friday, Dec 31, 2010 at 11:16
Good point Brian,

I would much rather listen to my Engel gennie than the Jackaroo at fast idle.

Pete
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Reply By: Mandrake's Solar Power- Friday, Dec 31, 2010 at 11:31

Friday, Dec 31, 2010 at 11:31
Don't forget that Solar does not require the Sun - Just sufficient bright light ..

In most cases you allow for those overcast dark days by having sufficient panels to at least return the main output ( ie your fridge ) ..

A 10 Amp solar kit should return 2 or 3 Amps on overcast days .

Cheers

Steve
AnswerID: 440285

Reply By: gbc - Friday, Dec 31, 2010 at 13:37

Friday, Dec 31, 2010 at 13:37
I've done what you did a heap of times and mostly it's all good. These days I have welding gloves or rags ready too.
Connecting very empty batteries to a car battery and alternator which is running can sometimes literally melt the rubber off the leads in a couple of seconds. It doesn't happen often, but when it does your first reaction is to knock a lead off the battery and melted rubber and lots of heat don't go too well with bare hands.
AnswerID: 440294

Follow Up By: KenInPerth - Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 20:48

Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 20:48
Hi all

The recent thread on a wind generator was about a unit from Jaycar. Seach for wind jaycar and you should find the thread.

It raised a few questions about suitability (high wind speed required (16-20 Knots), did it have reverse current protection, why did it specify an output voltage of 12-16V when it apparently has a regulator inbuilt, what does the voltage vs current curve look like, etc ??

I went and had a look at one at Jaycar and asked a lot of these questions which I have subsequently put in an email to the Store Manager who will supposedly get me the answers.

What I do no further to the previous thread is that in the manual that comes with it they show a picture of it connected to a battery as one of the uses. The guy I talked to said they tried one out at the beach (with no load though) and it "seemed to output 13.8 Volt" - but I stress this was no load.

While it is expensive ($400 odd from memory with only 12 months warranty) it may be a vialble option when out camping as long as you have enough wind but it only has an max output of 4Amp (which may be the "regulation" referred to which I would prefer to call current limiting) and if the batteries become very discharged they may take a while to come back up - and again only if you have enough wind.

Apparently it does output all the time (not just when it gets up to efective speed) and hence the reason for needing reverse current protection.

I still don't know answers to some questions and will post them if I get them.

Ken
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Reply By: KenInPerth - Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 20:50

Sunday, Jan 02, 2011 at 20:50
Bugger - I posted a follow up again instead of a reply. Think I need a beer ...

Have a look at my follow up under the previous reply to this one.

Ken

AnswerID: 440499

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