Product "Water Wetter"

Probably not such a great idea.
Check out this link.Sludge using water wetter

hi
i second what bushranger has said
i to have been using castrol eth/glycol based @50/50 mix -rate for 35yrs and never had a problem with over heating and or corrosion in the engines it was in that includes tractors/ trucks /4x4 and cars great product
cheers

Hi,
Water Wetter has originally designed for racing in that antifreeze/coolant was a hazard if spilled onto a race track...hence use water wetter and no antifreeze/normal coolant. In theory it is better cooling than coolant. That said would I run it in a road car? Answer no (especially not mixed with coolant as it would have very minimal effect and you run the risk of incompatibility). I agree with other posts in that this is not the solution to your heat concerns, these would be better addressed by more capacity in your cooling system or replacement of faulty radiator/fan/water pump etc.

Correct it does cool better.
However ethelyne glycol raises the boiling point of the coolant & prevents corrosion. Corrosion is not an issue in a race car because the engine is frequently stripped & rebuilt. This is not the case with a vehicle used for every day driving.

I remember the bad old days of just plain water,, a few weeks later after flushing you would be shoving the hose down the radiator filler to rinse out the rust again and again!!! Yes and small lumps of rust would float out, radiator tubes clogged with rust .. water pumps would last 12 months, rusted out welsh plugs!! Yep Gee plain water was good!!! Not!! Michael

Pressure raises the boiling point of water.

Eth-Gly is anti-freeze ... not coolant.

Eth-Gly at 50% is great .... and provides protection against freezing in our typically australian, minus 37'c ambient temps.

As for its anti boil protection .... pfffttttttttt .............

Eth-Gly at 50% provides a whole, whopping big 7'c extra, boil over protection compared to water ....


The additives included in the eth-gly and water mix are for the corrosion preventers. Eth-Gly on its own does very little except stop your radiator icing up in our freezing weather conditions.


What mix ratio anybody uses is up to themselves ...... but theres a reason all the big name brand coolants in australia have 30/70 premixes available.

Never used water wetter but plenty swear by it .... It still needs eth-gly for use in colder climates.

WaterWetter Sales Spiel

Thanks all for the comments etc. I've now read quite a number of reviews for the product and I think I'll stick to the existing coolant. WW appears to cause some cooling systems to go "off" rather quickly.

Maybe I'll just have to travel during the cooler months LOL

Cheers

Oz-Troopy
I am aware that it is additional additives that reduce corrosion & cavitation erosion. i was trying to keep the post simple without going in to the finer details of coolant make up.
The fact is that I & others have been using 50:50 mix as recommended by the vehicle manufactures for over 30 yrs & it works.
So next time I am on my way to my Mallee property & it's 42 deg I will give you a wave as I drive past in my 4WD while your at the side of the road with you bonnet up & steam enitting from your radiator.

heh heh ....... Bit of a presumption that I'll ever be parked on the side of road - bonnet up & emitting steam ..... as that would require a certain amount of stupidity in ignoring the temp gauge and pushing a vehicle beyond its limits in the prevailing conditions .... coolant type regardless.

As I said above ... its an individuals choice .... and if some of the finer details were more common knowledge ....

.... People might be a bit more selective of their coolants ... rather than just grabbing any ol bottle of green or red stuff off the parts store shelf ... as some do.

You can sing the praises of a cold climate coolant mix all you like .... But at least the present the pros AND cons ... so people can make an informed decision.

and FWIW .... and in my experience with a number of vehicles ..... Its more likely that your success with the 50/50 mix is due to the vehicles having a capable and efficient cooling system ..... intended to make up for the poorer heat transfer ability of 50/50 compared to lower eth-gly mix ratios.

I totally agree with you about people being selective about coolants. In fact some of the cheaper coolants are probably hardly better than using food coloring alone at preventing cavitation & corrosion. The cheaper ones can look good in the bottle but do little to help the longlivity of your cooling system.

Engine & radiator manufactures spend a lot of money on R&D in order to minimise cavitation & corrosion damage so if they recommend the 50:50 glycol based mix then I will continue to use such. Always worked for me so I am not about to change now.

John,

forgot to say with the overheating problem and the long pulls, try dropping down a gear to reduce the amount fuel going in and with the higher revs more water will circulate through the cooling system.

Rockape,

Yes mate, always drop down a gear and try hard not to use full throttle - still gets a mite warm though, esp in the 35 degree+ days. As I said earlier, I'll just limit our travels to the cooler months and stay away from hills LOL

Cheers

John,
the beauty of getting older is it's all downhill from there. LOL, so that should help.

Have a cool one.

John,
can I ask you what sort of temps the 4.2 is getting up to.

Rockape

Only going on the Nissan gauge mate - went to about 7/8ths of the scale going up the Moonbi Range just outside Tamworth around Xmas - 35 degree day towing the Trak Shak. Must get some decent instruments one of these days

Cheers

PS goes back to narmal as soon as we reach the top.

Afternoon Dan

I'm well aware of the 4.2's habit of getting a mite warm when worked hard. 118K's with regular servicing, new hoses about 20k ago, change the "Green" coolant once a year before any big trips so the engine itself is fine. The design of the engine is OLD and I'm not sure that the water galleries were ever designed to carry the flow required to transfer the heat - how many Kw's did the original 4.2 generate (85 I seem to recall) and mine is happy to put out about 120 + so - more power probably = more heat to dispose of.

Cannot justify a $1000 + radiator at the moment.

Cheers