Sikka flex or bog????
Submitted: Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 13:24
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Roughasguts
Just pulled of the windcreen weather strip of the Paj to see plenty of dirt and a few rust holes developing.
Planning on cleaning and some penetrol on the bare metal before painting.
The question would you bog the rust holes which never lasts or use sikkaflex to cover the hole and seal it up. The holes are all out of sight no doesn't need a hard shinny finish.
Your thoughts please.
I'll just sit here with a Beer in hand before I do much more.
Cheers.
Reply By: ben_gv3 - Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 14:29
Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 14:29
How big are the holes? How clean of rust are the holes?
I would use rust converter if there's still a little rust, as it needs a little rust to convert.
Sikaflex will hold a lot better then bog and will also flex a little since it's a polyurethane rubber (about 3% flex). AFAIK windscreen installers use a Sikaflex variant.
You could even push the Sika into the holes to fill it in.
Also there's a multitude of Sika varieties so it might pay to peruse their website to find the best one. Sika's used to in the boating/auto/construction industries so is good stuff.
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Follow Up By: Roughasguts - Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 14:44
Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 14:44
Thanks mate gone the marine sikka it's white as
well so won't notice it at all.
Cheers.
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Follow Up By: Member - Tour Boy ( Bundy QLD) - Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:11
Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:11
make sure that whatever you use is neutral cure or it will promote serious rust.
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Follow Up By: Roughasguts - Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:26
Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:26
Hmmm I hope that is written somewhere on the tube, I'll take a look.
Cheers.
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Follow Up By: ben_gv3 - Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:34
Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:34
Silastic is not neutral cure - the odour is acetic(?) acid and promotes rust.
Most of the Sikaflex range is neutral cure.
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Follow Up By: Roughasguts - Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:42
Thursday, Mar 03, 2011 at 15:42
Thanks mate I'm using sika 291 and can't find it being neatral cure on the Msds.
But it seems to be good to go on metal heres hoping.
Cheers.
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Follow Up By: Isuzumu - Friday, Mar 04, 2011 at 08:41
Friday, Mar 04, 2011 at 08:41
One thing to remember is 291 will not stick to glass, polycarbonate and perplex, it feels like it has stuck but over time comes away. Learnt the hard way after building my last yacht the wind screen start leaking after a couple of months, a real pain.
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Reply By: The Bantam - Friday, Mar 04, 2011 at 00:06
Friday, Mar 04, 2011 at 00:06
Sorry but I would not be using rust converter .....it is an acid.
Because you will have dificulties ensuring that the PH is completly neutralised it can promote more rust than it removes.
Been there and seen the results
best to go with some form of mechanical removal of the rust back to bare metal.
Unless you want to strip out the whole screen and lots of stuff arround it welding may not be a viable choice
The problem with Bog in this situation is that it is quite porus and yo cant rely on the paint to completly seal.
Plastibond is a better choice under windscreen seals.......
or even better marine epoxy used with a thickening filler to make an epoxy bog.....this stuff is intended for permanent immersion.
Sicaflex is a great thing....but if your surface preparation is not perfect you will probaly find that water will get in under it and the problem continues.
forget anything silicon......the sicaflex we would use here is not silicon it is polyeurathane and has no acid in the cure process.
whatever you do get some paint over anything you stik in there.
cheers
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