gear oils

cheers tony, that link doesnt work for me at the moment, will try again soon,, thanks for the reply

thank you too DnD. will try link again soon ,, cool photo man,, hope to get there one day

Steve,

What do you mean by 'cool photo'?

ta Ed C,, the owners manual says GL4 or GL5 ,,cheers
confucius is right ,,im no mechanic

hey rob,, i did see the VMX-M at repco today. i will go and exchange in the morn. i`ll use it in the "box, case and front diff". but the rear will get the LSX90. thanks for the advice man..
great lookin rig too... if i can work it out i`ll post one of my 80.... she is a good old girl and will keep me happy if i put the right oil in the right spots
cheers again all who replied

Thanks Steve
I wouldn't use the vmx in the front diff .
it is critical that hypoid (EP) oil be used in diffs.

thanks again rob, LSX90 in both front and readr diffs then.. VMX in the box and case..

Morning Jon,

Which Penrite Oil do you use for your vehicle? I'm currently running on Penrite 15W-50 HPR Diesel 15. But I'm leaning towards their 15W-40 Diesel GS instead.

What vehicle do you have?

If your vehicle is still in great condition after those kms I may just stick to Penrite.

thanks


Matthew

Hi Matthew,
I have a 91 1HD-T 80 series.
The Tug
I use HPR Diesel 15, 15w-40
Changed every 5000K's with filter.
I also have four Magnets(from an old starter motor) placed on the outside of the filter to catch any nasties that maybe floating around with the oil.

At first I didn't think they would do much, but I was amazed at the brown scum that I found on the inside where the Magnets sat. A mate who's a mechanic mentioned it when I first got her to try it. When I had the BEB's done, another mechanic comment what a good idea.
Can't do any harm and it doesn't cost any more to do.
Forgot to mention, I installed an Oil Catch Can as well. This made a Big difference, the oil holds it's colour for heaps longer now( you can see the markings on the dipstick at 5000k, it catches about 40ml per 5000k's. Before the oil would blacken at about 1500k's and at 2500 you were struggling to see the dipstick through the black oil.
Hope this helps.

Jon,

Well Ill be damned... magnets on the oil filter!! If you say it works and I'll remember I'm gonna try that on the next oil change ( which is slightly overdue!!)

But I could be wrong Jon, but doesn't the Penrite website say that HPR Diesel 15 is 15W - 50??

I've some 20L or so left of HPR Diesel 15 but I still may change to 15W -40

But Seriously that magnet idea is a GREAT idea!!


cheers

hi
hairs and fysh
i like the idea of the magnets and have an old subbie starter in the shed so will adopt that system
i believe the less gunk that is travelling through the oil lines repeatedly the better it will be for long engine life

plus i'm a firm candidate for short duration oil changes and have never moved away from that policy for as long as i have been an engine man no matter what the engine is
- vehicle or auxillary --briggs /robin or honda etc the freqency of the changes more so than the quality of the oil is what really matters

would you mind explaining

what an----- oil catch can------ does and where is it fitted and its neccessity
it might sound like a stupid question to you but i like to know and i;m sure there are others that are guessing is it something that only lc owners need or ??????? thank in advance
barry

Hi Diesel 'n Dust,
Hmm, You've got me thinking now.
That's what the little service sticker says on the windscreen(15w-40)
Just went out to the shed and I have a 5lt that has 15-50W and its a HPR15. I think and I could be wrong here, they have changed the grading to do with, Is it the ash or something like that?

Mazcan,
Catch cans are usually used on the bigger diesels, 6 cylinders. The build up of oil vapor in the cranking system I believe is not real good for the turbos. There is a hose that comes from the rocker cover and goes to the the turbo side of the air cleaner box, this oil vapor is burnt in the cylinder chamber and cause some smoke at the tail pipe as burnt oil.
A catch can is put in this hose, the motor/turbo sucks the oil vapor out of the cranking system and it is pulled through the catch can that is full of something that looks like steelwool. This catches the oil before it is sucked back into the intake. The oil can be drained off.
More turbo high performance motors will have an oil Catch Can of some type.
Image Could Not Be Found


I bought the can off eBay Here at the time they were about 48 bucks.
Then I got some 22mm hose and a few fittings, clamps fitted it. Of cause you could get the fittings welded into the can,so there was a reduction from 22mm to 12mm barbs, this would allow a higher air volume flow through the can.
As I mentioned earlier I did notice the oil staying cleaner for longer.
It can only benefit the motor in the long run.
Hope this helps guys.

hi jon
thank you for the detailed description and photo i and others are now upto date thanks again
barry

On ya Jon!!

No worries Barry,
Even if some of my wording is a little jumbled, the picture tells the story.
Cheers.

Steve,
Sorry to of Hijacked you thread.
It looks like you've got your oils sorted.
Good stuff and happy travels.
Cheers.

Cheers Matthew,
It's all these little things that when they come together it makes life good.
Over the last six-seven years I've come to appreciated the wealth in sharing amongst those that travel, camp and want to bring their kids up in the same environment. .
And you can't beat that.
As I build onto our setup I'll keep sharing what little knowledge that I gain, it might not always be correct, but I'm sure I will learn from sharing.
Cheers guys.

yes we have hijacked Steve's thread!!

Again you are spot on!

In my job I share a wealth of knowledge to travelers that ask for advice. So far I haven't got lost whilst working in the Pilbara. And likewise the station mob give me heaps of advice and stories too!

There is nothing like driving around Country and experiencing it all!

cheers

Matthew