Dome Wheel nuts,
Submitted: Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 16:11
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Axle
Has anyone ever worked out the clearance between the end of the wheel stud and the end of the dome nut on a toyota 100s,?, Just wondering if after the wheels been on and off a few times if
the nut grinds into the rim a bit allowing the end of the nut to come up against the stud, not giving the right tension,
Mine seem to loosen up every few months,
Cheers Axle.
Reply By: member - mazcan - Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 17:17
Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 17:17
hi axle
dont know about the 100s but i have seen that happen on several other vehicles and machines over many years and i dont see why it couldn't happen to a toyota
as its exactly the same principal
a shamphered nut in a countersunk hole and the holes do stretch particulary if rattle guns are over used to tighten the wheel nuts like at some tyre dealers and garages
i would suggest putting some thread tape around the base of the stud threads while you have a wheel off then put the wheel on and tighen the nuts as far as they will go then remove the wheel again and see if the tape has been compressed right to the base of the stud
if you get what i driving at this will possibly give you and idea as to how far down the stud thread
the nut is when fully tightened
cheers
barry
AnswerID:
459087
Follow Up By: Axle - Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 18:12
Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 18:12
G/Day Barry,...Good idea!..Thanks.
Cheers Axle.
FollowupID:
732649
Follow Up By: Trev6 - Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 18:22
Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 18:22
A bit of blue tac on the end of the stud befour putting
the nut back on may also work, that is providing the blue tac does't stay in
the nut when you remove it, could be worth a try anyway.
Better than the wheel falling off
Trev6
FollowupID:
732650
Follow Up By: member - mazcan - Monday, Jul 04, 2011 at 13:46
Monday, Jul 04, 2011 at 13:46
hi axle
forgot to mention the dome nuts may be bottoming out on the end of the stud and not allowing the convex end of
the nut to
seat tightly in the countersink of the rim
if you have access to a set of std wheel nuts you could try them on one wheel and see if the wheel starts to loosen or stays tight for ever this will prove that the dome nuts are hiting on the ends of the studs before the rim is tight
if this is the case and al's advice above with the blutac shows this too
then you have 2 options
grind 2mm off the end of each stud so that you can keep using the dome nuts
which is a bit un-orthidox i know!
or revert to std type nuts
cheers
barry
FollowupID:
732705
Reply By: Member Al (Sunshine Coast) - Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 20:34
Sunday, Jul 03, 2011 at 20:34
Axle, Run
the nut down with the wheel on, counting the number of turns. Then repeat with the wheel off and compare the number of turns. The difference will of course be the 'turns up your sleeve', so to speak.
AnswerID:
459105
Reply By: Stu & "Bob" - Monday, Jul 04, 2011 at 16:17
Monday, Jul 04, 2011 at 16:17
I have got standard Toyota domed wheel nuts on my OL rear wheel carrier.
Some time ago, whilst waiting for a flat to be repaired, I put the nuts back on without the wheel. When I tightened them to prevent light fingered larry from pinching them, the "dome" came completely off the remainder of
the nut.
The "dome" must only be a light press-fit on
the nut, so if needed, it can be removed.
HTH
AnswerID:
459165
Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Tuesday, Jul 05, 2011 at 10:24
Tuesday, Jul 05, 2011 at 10:24
Axle,
My Troopy had solid dome nuts when I got it. I had the same concerns about the amount of clearance. I threaded one of the nuts onto a bolt with the same thread and marked the point at which it bottomed out. I could then measure the length and compare it to the amount of stud standing proud of the wheel. In my case I had 3 mm spare so I was happy to continue using them.
cheers
AnswerID:
459217