HID upgrades

That can work sometimes but bear in mind Gossy that the light housing needs to be designed to suit HID. Yes you can change a globe to HID but the reflector needs to be designed for HID to allow the light output to reach its maximum potential.

And all of it outa China I bet. The whole aftermarket auto extras industry are ripping us off,the classic is Repco.

R - rip
E - every
P - public
C - customer
O - off

We should be the ones getting a discount for paying in CASH.

That is my dummy spit for the day.

These are only 35W but nice and cheap, same item here is over$400. Makes you wonder? Price is per pair and free shipping!
http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs/329267579-wholesale-high-quality-free-shipping-7-HID-XENON-DRIVING-SPOT-OFFROAD-LIGHT-4WD-JEEP-4X4-wholesalers.html

To all those who change to HID inserts please get the correct ones with the right focal point for your lights and then PLEASE get the lights adjusted properly. There is nothing worse than a blinding shot in the eyeballs from them in a badly installed setup.

I hate them because they almost make my eyes hurt.

Phil

I have upgraded to 55W HID on the following lights:

Disco 2 low and high beam (H4s)
LX 470 Low beam (high already HID)
Porsche Carrera High Beam H7s (low already HID)
Narva 225s (H1s)
Hella Rallye 4000 (H1)
Roo Lite Original H3 but adapted to H1

It is important to measure the distance from the flange of the bulb to the filament and make sure that the replacement globe is the same. I have used washers as shims to achieve the correct focus.

I prefer the 5000K colour temperatures as it isn't too blue.

It is critically important not to blind oncoming drivers. I have found that cars and trucks up to 10 km away flash their lights when they are faced with six 55W HIDs. It is necessary to extinguish the spotties whenever you can see even the loom of an oncoming vehicle.

If seeing where you are going makes you a safer driver, then a $50 a pair upgrade to HID is a worthwhile investment. I have had a couple of ballast units fail, so I keep spares with me.

Bob

yep agree. HID are the way of the future once prices come down (aftermarket will help the branded manufacturers to lower their margin considerably eventually). HID or Halogen is a nuisance if not lowered with oncoming traffic so it comes down to showing some common sense and dim lights with oncoming traffic.

Normal spotlights will 'hurt' my eyes also if they are not dimmed and I'm coming towards them.

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I have left the Lightforce as standard, the HID are not instant on.

Do a bit of research on the Xenon HID lights more to get a better understanding how the actually work and can across this from Mud Rhino and their conversion. To save you all I have cut and pasted the first paragraph that was interesting to me and wanted to share.


"For those of you who have little or no idea what ‘HID’ stands for, it’s an abbreviation for High Intensity
Discharge, and is the term utilised to describe a reasonably new breed of lighting that surpasses standard
old fashioned halogen lighting in almost every single conceivable aspect.
In short HID lights do not have a filament like standard lights, instead they use a capsule of glass filled
with a highly pressurized mixture of xenon gas, mercury, metal halides (sodium), and other gases. Inside
the tube is a pair of tungsten-tipped electrodes placed a few millimetres apart. Electrical energy (12-volts)
is sent to a high-voltage transformer (containing the "starter" as well as the ballast module), which steps
up the voltage to nearly 1,000 volts. The high voltage is sent to the electrodes inside the bulb, which
causes an arc, igniting the gases inside the bulb. As the gases burn, a temperature of nearly 4,000
degrees is attained within the tube. After the initial start-up, the lights require on average less than 3
amps of energy to maintain their output. In other words, once these babies are on, they produce a hell of
a lot of light, and only consume a small portion of the energy required by Halogens, and more closely
approximating the colour temperature of natural daylight. Additionally, a HID lamp will last, on average, 3
to 5 times as long as a halogen bulb. In normal use, your HID bulb should last beyond one thousand
ignitions."

Complete pages are from the following site

http://www.mudrhino.com.au/Docs/DIY1.pdf

I found another site it was also informative, here is a section from that site.

"What is color temperature?
Many people believe that the higher the color temperature the brighter the lamp. This is totally wrong. The color temperature is purely a scale to measure the color of the light output. It is a reference purely for color and could equally be called White, Green or Blue. The reality is the higher up the scale the lamps are the less bright they become. 5200K lamps are approx 10% brighter (measured in Lumens, not degrees K) than the 7000K. If you want lighting performance the 6000K HID lamps are the best. In our opinion 7000K has the best and most attractive light output."

Taken from

http://www.gohid.com/faq.php

Regards
Bernie

For anyone interested under ADR13 HID headlamps are illegal without self levelling and high pressure headlamp washers which is why the vehicles sold in Aus with Bi-xenon h/lamps as standard equipt have those two features. Also the after-market retro-fitted HID kits no longer comply with ADR 13 because the h/lamp assy was originally a QH light source when it was tested for compliance with ADR 13. These after-market so called 'upgrades' are banned in the UK, NZ & many USA states for the obvious reason of the discomfort they cause to other road users and it is likely that they will be banned in Aus for the same reason. Some 'may' throw out a #hitload more light but that is the problem, they throw it out all over the place at random and in most cases where it is not wanted..........in other drivers eyes. You can pick out the vehicles with HID after market kits way back in a line of oncoming traffic and that in itself is the problem. Most of the h/lkamps fitted with these kits cannot be correctly adjusted because the h/lamp assy was designed for a QH light source and not a HID light source and they are not interchangeable despite the rubbish kits being sold on the market mainly imported from China (what isn't) telling you otherwise