Temporary loss of power with burst of smoke from exhaust
Submitted: Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 10:57
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Member - Reetta & Joe (NSW)
Has anyone had similar problems with their 100 series Landcruiser? I have a 1HZ diesel with an after market turbo. The sudden loss of power happens while pushing uphill, lasts about a second, then a lot of smoke billows out of the exhaust for about 5 seconds and then back to normal? No mechanical noises or any
sign of problems under the bonnett can be seen.
The motor has given no prior problems for 13 years,(no exhaust smoke ever) the turbo was fitted 3 years ago and has performed beautifully.
I replaced the fuel filter already and the new one has done it again after about a 1000km trip too?
Any ideas?
Joe
Reply By: TerraFirma - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 11:10
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 11:10
Black smoke (I'm guessing it's Black) is due to a air to fuel ratio imbalance, either the fuel system is delivering too much fuel into the engine or there is not enough clean air (oxygen ) a few things to look for :
Faulty injectors (injectors need attention at about 100.000 to 120 000
miles)
Faulty injector pump
Dirty air cleaner
Turbocharger or intercooler faulty
Problems within cylinder head, valves clogged up due to faulty EGR (exhaust gas recycling unit)
How many KM's has she done.? What has been the service history of above?
AnswerID:
468584
Follow Up By: Member - Reetta & Joe (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 12:53
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 12:53
It's done 290,000km.
The smoke is a mixture of both black & white which comes out in one burst out of the exhaust. After settling down no smoke.
Injectors and injector pump were done at the same time as turbo installation which was 3 years and 70,000km ago.
Oil gets changed every 5000km and fuel filter at 20,000km. Air cleaner is clean and almost new.
Cylinder head has never been off and exhaust system is still original.
Recently it's had some electrical disturbances like oil light intermittently showing but oil gauge shows normal pressure and plenty on the dip stickl. Not sure if this is connected?
Thanks for your valued advice.
FollowupID:
742885
Follow Up By: brianc - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 15:48
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 15:48
Exhaust system still original? Do you mean it is still the standard 1HZ system? I would have thought it would be a bit restrictive for turbo use. I have an aftermarket turbo on my 1HZ 100 ser (only 16k ago) but have the
beaudesert 3" system. It performs
well, no smoke at all, no coughs. A check on system pressures during these high loads my be required to nail it.
FollowupID:
742896
Reply By: pop2jocem - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 12:14
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 12:14
Joe, what colour smoke? I assume the resumption of normal power delivery and smoke happen together. If for some reason the fuel volume being injected is temporarily interupted the turbo will slow dramatically until the fuel resumes. As the fuel delivery becomes normal there will be a short period during which the turbo will have to spool up and the air fuel ratio normalises. During this brief time excess fuel will cause smoke. Sounds like you may need to get the fuel pump checked out. A short interuption of current to the fuel shutoff solinoid will give the same symptom but I can't see why this would only happen going up hills.
Hope that might help
Cheers Pop
AnswerID:
468585
Reply By: Honky - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 14:41
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 14:41
Sounds like something got suck through the airfilter.
Might be worthwhile to see if the filter is all there.
Honky
AnswerID:
468593
Follow Up By: Thinkin - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 15:21
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 15:21
check air intake pipe between filter and turbo, see if there is accumalation of oil that comes from oil breather pipe from tappet cover.
A lump of oil might get sucked in every now and then.
Regards alpero
FollowupID:
742895
Reply By: ken triton - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 17:06
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 17:06
Hi Joe,
Have the same vehicle with aftermarket turbo, had the same problem. Block of the egr hose by putting a ball bearing down rubber line and your problem should be solved This is what was recommended to me by a very reputable turbo installer and my problem was fixed. The egrs playing up is a common problem on 1HZ'S
Hope this helps
Regards
Ken
AnswerID:
468596
Reply By: Member - john y - Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 21:42
Wednesday, Oct 26, 2011 at 21:42
G,day had a very similar problem with my 1HZ fitted with an aftermarket[DTS] turbo . After being assured by a turbo expert that the problem was a cracked head and being relieved of many dollars ,on advice from an industry source I contacted a company who specialise in preparing competition 4 WDS and race cars within minutes of examining the car they successfully diagnosedhe problem was that the rubber elbow on the air inlet of the turbo had degraded and had expanded to over 3 times its original size.Under acceleration the elbow constricted upon itself which restricted the airflow which overloaded he air/fuel mix hence the black smoke and lack of power I also noticed a momentary increase in temperature.
Hpo that this may offer an additional suggestion
AnswerID:
468615
Reply By: Member - Serendipity(WA) - Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 02:42
Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 02:42
Some very good answers and possibilities to try.
The EGR or exhaust gas return valve is designed to open when it senses high pressure in the exhaust system like when the carbon particulate filter is blocked. It will then allow exhaust gases to recirculate into the air intake thus changing the air fuel mixture and creating a hotter burn for a while until the particulate filter is burnt off and the pressure in the exhaust decreases again.
I would guess this EGR is set for the normally aspirated motor exhaust pressure and when under full power with a turbo the EGR is sensing too much back pressure and opens. Of course the exhaust in not blocked and the flow soon goes through and then the EGR will quickly close again.
Two things block this EGR off - you will get more power. Second buy a 3 in mandrel bent exhaust - you will get more power and better economy.
I would also check the hoses to and from the turbo just in case they are worn as
well.
To add to the upgrades buy a pyro gauge or turbo temperature gauge ($100 about) - this fits into the exhaust just after the turbo - this will tell you if you are pushing the turbo to hot and in danger of damaging your motor - if the temp gets too hot just back off a few km/h - amazing how fast the temp will change.
Cheers
Serendipity
AnswerID:
468619
Reply By: Member - Richard W (NSW) - Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 05:55
Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 05:55
Joe,
If none of the solutions above solve your problem might be worth floating the question on the 100 series section of the LCOOL
forum.
LCOOL Forum
AnswerID:
468621
Reply By: Dust-Devil - Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 09:07
Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 09:07
R & J
No one has mentioned valve clearances yet, especially yourself when describing what has been done to the/your 1HZ engine.
I have a 1997 1HZ Troopy with an after market turbo plus some other 'tricked-up' bits that works/performs sensationally, however the valve clearances which have been checked every 30,000kms after the turbo install s have had to be adjusted each time.
It has done a 130,000kms in total and the last time the valve clearances were checked approx 2mths ago I had reached the maximum point that the clearance adjustment that the shims allow for.
So next time it has to be done it will be a Head off and recon with different valves, seats etc etc - something similar to an upgrade for a petrol/LPG head.
Since the turbo was fitted I have driven the vehicle like a petrol vehicle ie not spared it one iota, towing 2.5t caravan and 1.6t camper trailer, plus heaps of desert driving with no hiccups whatsoever.
I only became aware of the vital importance of an EGT gauge half way through the many years that the turbo has been installed and got the fright of my life when I did install one.
Since I fitted the EGT gauge I now drive it to Temperature rather than Revs and its still all good. Better actually.
In a nutshell - Valve Clearances are something else to consider.
DD
AnswerID:
468623
Follow Up By: Member - Reetta & Joe (NSW) - Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 13:55
Thursday, Oct 27, 2011 at 13:55
Thanks guys for all the sound advice, looks like I've got to spend quite some time under the bonnett to narrow the problem down. I have thought about the 3" exhaust for a long time, looks like thats on the cards now too.
I've got to build a cubby house for the grandkids on the weekend and if nothing helps my car, I might use Toyota body parts for the cubby! It'd be different!
Will let you know my outcome when solved.
Thanks again,
Joe
FollowupID:
742938
Reply By: TEQ105 - Friday, Oct 28, 2011 at 22:47
Friday, Oct 28, 2011 at 22:47
Mate I had the exact same problem with
mine when i bought it, three years ago. It will be the rubber elbow on the suction side of the Turbo sucking flat. I replaced
mine with a 2 inch silicon bend from super cheap, problem solved. I have a DTS turbo with top mount I/C with 3 inch exhaust. When it first happened it scared the cr#p out of me.
AnswerID:
468778
Reply By: Member - Reetta & Joe (NSW) - Thursday, Nov 10, 2011 at 13:54
Thursday, Nov 10, 2011 at 13:54
It's Joe again,
It seems almost certain that my loss of power problems are over.
The rubber elbow into the turbo ( which I have replaced) had softened up and swelled up in size, it must have caved in when a lot of air was sucked in by the turbo.
The oily air from the tappet cover breather hose did not help either, it now breathes into a plastic oil bottle.
As I would like to install a 3inch exhaust system as suggested, I have a problem as the exhaust outlet of the turbo is only 2.5 inch. Will there be any benefit if the flow starts from a smaller outlet??
Thanks again for all the good advice so far, it's been most helpful.
Joe
AnswerID:
469638