Haze N50 12V 80Ah

Submitted: Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 10:23
ThreadID: 90091 Views:2971 Replies:4 FollowUps:3
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Hi guys
I have two Haze N50 12V 80Ah in my 2004 Kimberley Platinum that came with it new & i think they maybe buggered.

Firstly, If they do need replacing, should i go with these again or is there something better i should be using?
Also, as space is limited, the size of the batteries is limited. Has anyone seen someone put another two batteries the same above these ones in the front gullwing? I was thinking of making a mount for them to go above these ones so as i could have 4 batteries in total.
I ahve also heard the wiring is these kampers is big enough from factory, does anyone know what wiring i should replace and with what size?

Another Q
If these batteries were fully charged and good to go. How long would it take before the needed charging again running a 80ltr Waeco and a couple of Versalites a night as well as the 12v watwer pump from time to time.
Say its 33' during day and 12' at night, fridge set to 4' degrees. Opening and closing every 2-3 hrs.

Roughly how long should it take before the fridge 'battery saver' kicks in and stops it cycling?

It has the 10amp charger built in to the camper. While away, should i be running the generator for a certain amount of time every night to keep them topped up as we don't do any driving for a few days and we dont have solar.

Appreciate any help. :-)
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Reply By: TerraFirma - Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 11:50

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 11:50
Hard to answer all your questions accurately. I will however make the following comments:

1. AGM batteries should not be discharged below 50% for extended periods.
2. If you are not aware of the batteries state of charge you shoould install a simple volt meter.
3. 10 Amp charger is a little small for 160AH worth of batteries, if want to boost the batteries as quickly as possible consider a 25 Amp Ctek for example when you are running you generator.
4. Some solar charging would be extremely helpful, less generator time required
5. If you can up your total AH capacity it is always nice.

Some of the battery experts will be able to shed more light on how long you would get from 160AH running those devices, I would have thought around 3-4 days at a guess.
AnswerID: 469982

Reply By: Juiced - Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 13:55

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 13:55
ok great. Thanks for your reply.
When meanusring battery voltage, what would the 50% mark be?
(if that sounds right) haha
AnswerID: 469990

Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 14:46

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 14:46
Hi again,

sorry, just read about your additional question:

battery voltage in open circuit (no load connected) should read about 12.3~12.4V at the 50% state of charge mark.

But in your case, the problem is that you don't know how much capacity the old batteries have retained.
A brand new 80Ah battery will yield about 40Ah at the 50% SOC mark, while an old one could yield as little as 10Ah at the 50% mark.
Batteries are like fuel tanks with constantly shrinking volume.

The problem with the voltage/SOC correlation is that you don't get an idea about actual Ah left inside the battery, although you can more or less accurately determine the percentage of SOC by measuring its open circuit voltage.

The only way to measure SOC figures is by doing a load test.
Use some light bulbs with a known wattage, connect to battery and plot voltage over time.

cheers, Peter
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FollowupID: 744447

Follow Up By: TerraFirma - Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 16:37

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 16:37
Agreed Peter on the voltage/soc correlation, I use a proper marine battery monitor on my boat, but nowadays I hardly ever check as I have dropped my useage via led and have over 500AH to play with. For can and camper owners what else can you use to measure SOC without breaking the bank.?
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FollowupID: 744452

Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 17:14

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 17:14
That's right TF,

there are some nifty devices which employ fuzzy logic for calculating SOC as a percentage of actual max available capacity (considering that the max available capacity itself is a variable, this is no easy feast and there's still room for error, especially in the early stages when the system 'learns').
But there are also simpler devices which display the current*voltage*time product, and the user can look at Wh and Ah figures going either one way or the other (charging or discharging).

cheers, Peter
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FollowupID: 744458

Reply By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 14:32

Monday, Nov 14, 2011 at 14:32
Hi,

yes, there's something better :)

Wiring: this depends on the charging source, and also on the type of load.
If it's alternator charging, select 8 or 6 B&S.
If you intend to run your microwave or toaster, through an inverter, select 4 B&S, or even 2 B&S. It makes sense to wire the inverter separately to the battery utilising its own set of heavy gauge wires. So there are a few variables and options.

If the two 80Ah batteries were still good, estimated run time for the fridge and lights is 3 days.

With the 10A charger, it'll take about 4~5 hours of generator run time to recharge the batteries on a daily basis.
But this is only for while you're stationary because the alternator can be utilised for bulk charging. 30~40 minutes of daily cruising, in connection with 1 hour of generator usage will be sufficient to top up your batteries.

Instead of the generator, you could use solar of course. A 100 or 120W panel in connection with a true MPPT solar regulator has you covered.
If the sun doesn't want to come out for a couple of days, you can always rely on the daily alternator charging session.

For alternator charging, the minimum recommended battery capacity is 180Ah.
For more details please contact Battery Value Pty Ltd through the linked page in our profile.

cheers, Peter




AnswerID: 469994

Reply By: Juiced - Tuesday, Nov 15, 2011 at 08:20

Tuesday, Nov 15, 2011 at 08:20
Thanks for all your help guys. I disconnected them from each other and load tested them individually last night. They came up at about 60am/hr each which was good as they hadn't been charged for a while.
I then left them separated and charged them one by one with my CTek 7000 charger. They are both now 100% :-)

I think the next thing i do will be wire up the anderson plug direct from the alternator and then probably buy a 120w solar panel.

Is there anything i need to be careful of when purchasing a solar system?

If i wire the anderson direct to the batteries, what size circuit breaker should i have, & same for the solar?

Cheers guys
AnswerID: 470062
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