12V/12v. Chargers

Submitted: Saturday, Nov 19, 2011 at 18:00
ThreadID: 90189 Views:2716 Replies:4 FollowUps:9
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Would like some imput on 12v/12v chargers incorporated into in car dule battery systems.

Firstly Do I really need one ( they are quite expensive ).

I would like to charge a120a/h and a 75a/h battery as well as my standard cranking battery.

I have a Nissan patrol with a 90 amp. Alternator which gives me a charge rate of 14.15 volts @7-800 rpm and 14.23 volts @ 2000 rpm

So will this be o.k.

Or would one of these 12v/12v units be the goods?

Cheers bob.
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Reply By: paulnsw - Saturday, Nov 19, 2011 at 19:09

Saturday, Nov 19, 2011 at 19:09
good DC DC chargers do an excellent job. Depends on your needs and requirements. How you use your batteries. To charge and use 2 auxilliary batteries correctly would require 2 DC DC chargers or a manual switch to switch between 2 batteries.
AnswerID: 470433

Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 09:05

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 09:05
paulnsw,

I don't believe you are necessarily correct with your statement.

One of the main advantages of a DC-DC charger is to ensure the voltage at the end of a longish cable run is suitable to efficiently charge a battery or battery bank at the end of that circuit.
Obviously, the cable needs to be of sufficient capacity to carry the load current but with a DC-DC charger placed at the remote end of the circuit, the charger will boost voltage to an optimum of 14.4v at the business end to ensure efficient and full charging.

Unless the batteries in the " bank" are separated by a long distance, only one charger is required as voltage drop between the auxiliary batteries will be minimal.
Most multiple batteries in a camper trailer or caravan are either mounted together, or within 2 or 3 metres of each other if mounted one on either side of the camper.
Voltage drop in this case is not an issue.

Bill


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Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 09:45

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 09:45
Hi Sandman
Your post spells out the situation quite clearly.
A dual battery system in a vehicle has little advantage provides the batteries require the same charging regime[ basically means are the same type]
In fact a dc to dc charger ,unless of LARGE capacity, may encrease the running time needed to charge batteries that have been somewhat discharged
They MAY have advantages when the distance between source & van battery is long ,but should be located as you have indicated ,as close as possible to the van battery[with protective fuses as close as possible to the source & van battery in the POS line.
Other conditions depending on vehicle alternator output voltages MAY make them desirable

Peter
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FollowupID: 744962

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 09:57

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 09:57
Hi Bob
The questions are:-
[1] are all the batteries the same type[ wet lead acids for example]?
[2] are they resonably close together ?distance between each?
[3]how do you wish to use them, ie what loads are you wishing to connect to them?
That should do for a start

Peter
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FollowupID: 744963

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 10:04

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 10:04
Hi
Sorry edit to above post
"A dual battery system in a vehicle has little advantage provides the batteries require the same charging regime[ basically means are the same type"

It should read: '
A dc to DC charger system in a vehicle has little advantage provided the batteries ETC ETC
Peter
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FollowupID: 744964

Follow Up By: Bob48 - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 16:06

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 16:06
Hi Oldtrack 123,

My batteries are as follows,

- Cranking battery Standard spec. For a Nissan Patrol (wet cell )
- Aux. Batteries. Blue Apple. Thumper 75h/h. Red back. 120a/h ( both AGM )

Cranking battery in standard place. both AGM units are in the rear compartment about 1mt. Apart.

The primary role of the two AGMs is to run an Engle 40 lt. As a freezer most of the time.

I understand that the Engle pulls 3.5-4amps
The only other things that might be run are a few LED lights ( not a lot )

Cheers Bob
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FollowupID: 744999

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 13:43

Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 13:43
Hi Bob
First just a couple of points
A standard alternatot takes a long time to FULLY charge [100%] a lead acid battery
However provided your regulator hold @ 14.2v for long enough[not like some late models which cut back early,somewhat independent of batterySOC] it will more than likely to put in the major portion of a bulk charge to a low soc battery than most Dc to DC chargers can in the same time
It would seem that all your batteries are relatively close together.

Possably a few metres of cable run at the most between them??

Before going for A dc to dc charger I would suggest:-

[1]get some heavy cable[ welding flex] & connect the batteries by the shortest possible practical route
Ensure the cable cannot be damaged & cause a short to chassis [FIRE]
An extra outer covering of hose would give added protection, as well as make sure there are no sharp metal edges which could cut into the cables

The run from the front to the rear would best be fused[50amp] at each end

[2]if you already do not have one I would suggest a battery isolator between your crank & aux batteries.

This will help ensure you do not get stuck with a flat crank battery

[3]
I think you have an Engel fridge ,IT does not have a low voltage cutout as it cannot be damaged by low voltage [unlike Waecos]
I would suggest you consider a low voltage cut out on the aux's pos output or @ the Engel itself
The operating voltage should NO less than 11.6<12v

This will reduce the over discharging of your Aux batts & lead to longer life


Peter


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FollowupID: 745061

Reply By: Member - Tezza Qld - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 10:41

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 10:41
Hi Bob

I too have a patrol and the same battery configuration as you wish to have.

I won't go into the dc/dc charging side of things but on my 4.2 the start battery was on the drivers side whilst the aux battery was mounted on the passenger side.

Now as the start battery is a wet type and I wanted an agm as auxillary the heat from the turbo and exhaust was 300mm from the auxilly battery.
Apparently agm batteries don't take the heat as well as a wet battery.

Solution. For me I changed the batteries around so the wet start battery is now on the passenger side and the auxillary on the drivers side. With the auxillary further forward in position under the bonnet. I can mount a charger on or before the front radiator support, which would be the coolest area, whilst still being less than 250mm from the battery.

My patrol also has a battery surround with a air feed going through the inner guard which I used with the agm battery.

Hope this helps

Cheers Teza
AnswerID: 470479

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 12:35

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 12:35
Hi Teza

Smart thinking.
Yes, AGMs do not like heat
Peter
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FollowupID: 744988

Reply By: AlbyNSW - Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 12:52

Sunday, Nov 20, 2011 at 12:52
With the current model Prados and Hiluxes there alternators are designed such as to not work to their full capacity constantly and will only charge your second battery to 80% regardless of the voltage drop issue for long cable runs.
The Dc/DC charger rectifies this issue.
I do not know how many other modern vehicles this effects and I am only a novice in this field but Member Olcoolone gave a detailed explanation of the workings of the modern alternators on the Hilux forum.
I have one fitted to my vehicle to increase my capacity and up the voltage for my second AGM battery
AnswerID: 470487

Follow Up By: LeighW - Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 10:52

Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 10:52
"With the current model Prados and Hiluxes there alternators are designed such as to not work to their full capacity constantly and will only charge your second battery to 80% regardless of the voltage drop issue for long cable runs. "

Booster diodes are available to overcome this issue, negating the need for a DC/DC charger.

Also Optima batteries could be used as they require less voltage to charge.

Cheers
LeighW
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FollowupID: 745046

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 07:37

Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 07:37
Bob,

In the situation you have just descibed, I don't believe you need a dc-dc charger.
The Thumper should have coume with it's own 30-40 amp charging kit and includes both a suitable sized heavy duty twin cable and a built-in isolator.

You will need a suitable charging circuit for your 120Ah which I assume is an AGM style.
My recommendation would be to purchase an ABR Sidewinder Flyer to contain your AGM battery. This unit also includes it's own charging cables, connectors, etc. and a really heavy duty twin cable.
By utilising the Flyer (which also has a built-in isolator) you would not need a separate charging circuit for the Thumper. The Flyer includes both input and output Anderson connectors, and you would only need to have a short patch lead to connect the Thumper to the output on the Flyer, thus joining the two battery packs in parallel.

I use a similar setup in my rig, although I have the two charging circuits mentioned above, one for the 75Ah Thumper (because I installed this first) and a second circuit for the Flyer. (contains a 100Ah AGM)
When I connect my camper trailer up, I plug into the output of the Flyer and have a dc-dc charger at the other end, (inside the camper) because of the extra long run.
This ensures the two 80Ah batteries in the camper get a full and efficient charge.

I don't always take the thumper now, but include it when camping in the tent and also when travelling to remote destinations where the jump start capability of the Thumper provides an extra emergency facility.

The Flyer kit will cost around $375 which is close to the cost of a dc-dc battery charger but it will give a more flexible solution. You really need to secure your large AGM battery in the back of your vehicle and need an isolator in the circuit to protect your starting battery.
You shouldn't need a dc-dc charger when both batteries are in the back of your rig as the cable run (I think Dereck provides 6 B&S cable) is plenty big enough.

Hope this information assists you with the ability to choose a cost effective solution.
If you contact Derek Bester at Sidewinder he would be only too happy to assist you.

Bill


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AnswerID: 470537

Follow Up By: Bob48 - Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 08:45

Monday, Nov 21, 2011 at 08:45
Thanks Sandman,

This give me some hope for my solution.

Cheers, Bob
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FollowupID: 745036

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