Fuses

Submitted: Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 11:58
ThreadID: 90838 Views:6785 Replies:3 FollowUps:18
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We have an Evacool 47L Fridge Freezer. Has gone well until last summer we plugged into domestic power and fuse blew. We replaced it but same thing happened next stop and on it went. When we checked with Evacool dealer in Cairns he thought we should be using 10 amp ceramic fuses not 8 amp as we had used all along. Cannot find a 10 amp ceramic fuse of the same type the 8 amp is. Does anyone know of a similar problem?
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Reply By: LeighW - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:32

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:32
If the fuse blows straight away you a fault with your fridge.

It takes approximately twice the fuses rated current for 10 seconds to cause it to fuse. So if it fuses straight away there is a fault with your fridge.

If it blows after several minutes then it may be a case of an underated fuse
being installed but I doubt this is the case as it did run ok initially.

Cheers
LeighW
AnswerID: 473343

Follow Up By: LeighW - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:34

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:34
Forgot to add, if you need to source the 10A fuse, try a TV video or other similar service centre as they should have one.
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FollowupID: 748150

Reply By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:55

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:55
Hi
For A start I would NOT follow the recommendation of encreasing the fuse size
You could do serious damage to the unit
The fuse IS to protect the unit, & size is determed by the maker
VERY POOR ADVISE by some one who should know better & I certainly would NOT be getting HIM to attempt repairs

Perhaps your problem is similar to reply #6 in the below link
http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/3677/Truth_about_EvaKool_FridgeFreezer_Combination_Units.aspx

Peter
AnswerID: 473347

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 13:01

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 13:01
Hi
Cannot edit , so a question
RE"Has gone well until last summer we plugged into domestic power and fuse blew"
Not sure just what you mean, what did you use between it & the 240v mains [domestic power]

Peter
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FollowupID: 748153

Follow Up By: Evakool - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 13:12

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 13:12
Hi Peter,

The Evakool RF and FM series Fridge / Freezers that used to come with fuse holders came with 10 Amp glass fuses installed at the Evakool head office in Caloundra.

We now use a 15 Amp circuit breaker in place of the fuse holder.


The Danfoss electronic board that we use has a 10 Amp cut-out built in, if the fridge tries to use more than 10 Amps the fridge stops straight away and flashes an error code to show there is an issue.


The fuse holder or circuit breaker is designed to protect the fridge from short circuits.


Thanks.
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FollowupID: 748154

Follow Up By: Dion - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 21:10

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 21:10
"The fuse IS to protect the unit, & size is determed by the maker "

What a load of codswallop!!

Fuses are to protect the power supply, be it a battery or generator and conductors supplying the appliance.

A thermal cutout device protects the appliance.

regards,
D.
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FollowupID: 748181

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 22:06

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 22:06
HI Dion

Perhaps you should make sure you KNOW what you are talking about BEFORE you mouth OFF

Fuses serves different purposes depending on WHERE THEY ARE LOCATED

I do not know where you obtained YOUR electrical knowledge IF you are not aware of THAT
The SIZE & location of THAT fuse has nothing to do with protecting the power supply [source]BATTERY OR GENERATOR!!!

A fuse is a thermal device , MANY devise have fuses ,often internal ,to protect the devise
But I suppose you mean thermal OLCBS
They TOO depend on location as to what they are protecting
Used to protect wiring , source, devise, just as fuses are!!!!!

YOU certainly need to brush up on YOUR ELECTRICAL knowledge BEFORE YOU POST MORE SUCH RUBBISH

I see that Evacooll has given an answer as to the now preferred fuse size & note he has said "SLOW BLOW TYPE"
Ceramic fuses are fast blow type& are less capable of handling initial start up current


Peter
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FollowupID: 748182

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 22:10

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 22:10
Hi Evacool
Thanks for that update on the FRIDGE protection


Peter

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FollowupID: 748183

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 22:26

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 22:26
HI Dion
RE :"But I suppose you mean thermal OLCBS"

Perhaps you are not referring to the above, but a TEMPERATURE sensitive cut out , some self resetting , other fail permanently open ???
IF so yes, SOME low current devices do have THOSE , but fuses or thermal [current based] circuit breakers are at this stage STILL more common.[especialy for higher currents]

Peter
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FollowupID: 748184

Follow Up By: olcoolone - Tuesday, Dec 27, 2011 at 10:58

Tuesday, Dec 27, 2011 at 10:58
I can't believe what I just read..... most circuit protection work on thermal methods, a fuse is a thermal device ..... when the current exceeds the thermal rating of the fuse the resistance increases generating heat melting the filament.

Just because a fuse is rated in amps it still relates to energy.

A fuse is designed to protect the wiring and circuit it is before and not the power supply.... why would you need to protect a car battery (power supply).
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FollowupID: 748215

Follow Up By: Dion - Tuesday, Dec 27, 2011 at 21:49

Tuesday, Dec 27, 2011 at 21:49
Ummmmm you need to protect the battery from short circuits. Batteries create an incredible amount of heat. Short circuits create lots of heat, batteries do explode when shorted and insulation dripping off conductors does combust. Flames where they are not wanted have a tendency to destroy things.

We do have the remains of some inadequately insulated tools at work to show the newbies the amount of instantaneous heat that a battery will produce from a short circuit where there is no protection.

Don't fuse all your conductors coming from a battery post, then do so at your own peril.

Another saying worth remembering, 'One flash and you're ash'

Cheers,
Dion.
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FollowupID: 748267

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Tuesday, Dec 27, 2011 at 22:27

Tuesday, Dec 27, 2011 at 22:27
Hi Dion

Sorry but that last post shows you have very little electrical understanding

That fuse AT the battery IS TO PROTECT THE CABLES NOT THE BATTERY

HAVE you any idea of the size fuse you would need to protect the battery & still allow full utilzation of its max output capacity???

YES, ALL cables leaving a battery should be fused AT THE BATTERY TO SUIT the CABLE CURRENT Rating!!!

FUSES/Thermal cbs in devices as the one in question are to protect the devise
That may be from it drawing excess current[faulty or overload ]

Fuses /THERMAL cbs may also be used to protect the device from putting out excess current such as inverters ,& generators

THE LOCATION OF the FUSE /THERMAL CB determines it's purpose

BOTH fuses & thermal cbs ARE thermal type protection

The choice of which to use & THE TYPE can be dependent on either the application or the makers choice

Note Eva cool's comment on "SLOW BLOW FUSES" being required

Peter
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FollowupID: 748270

Follow Up By: gbc - Wednesday, Dec 28, 2011 at 07:01

Wednesday, Dec 28, 2011 at 07:01
Mate, PLEASE lay OFF the CAPS it's DRIVING me NUTS. Im sure YOU'RE trying to MAKE some VALID points BUT it HURTS to DECIPHER. merry Christmas.
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FollowupID: 748285

Follow Up By: Dion - Wednesday, Dec 28, 2011 at 22:07

Wednesday, Dec 28, 2011 at 22:07
Hi Oldtrack123, YOU obviously have little understanding of the current a battery can put out and the speed at which it can cause a fire in an unprotected circuit.
Unfortunately fuses or OLCB at applainces do not stop melting conductors causing fires or batteries exploding.
Still believe in Santa and the Easter Bunny??

Kindest regards,
Dion.
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FollowupID: 748362

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Wednesday, Dec 28, 2011 at 23:52

Wednesday, Dec 28, 2011 at 23:52
Hi Dion
Re :"YOU obviously have little understanding of the current a battery can put out and the speed at which it can cause a fire in an unprotected circuit.
Unfortunately fuses or OLCB at applainces do not stop melting conductors causing fires or batteries exploding.
Still believe in Santa and the Easter Bunny??""

You obviuosly have great difficulty in reading & understanding

I said from the start

Location of the fuse/olcb determines what they protect

I have said ALL circuits should be protected@ the source with fuse /olcb suited to the cable rating to protect the cables

I said fuses/olcbs are used @ the equipment to protect the equipment
The fuse in question by the OP was /is to protect the fridge

Reread it all very slowly Perhaps you will then understand all that has been said

I hope you are not an electrician or an 1st year electrical apprentice because you have a lot to learn

I did ask you one question:
, What size fuse would you use to protect say 700amp CCA battery or say a 400amphr battery bank

Now I'll ask a 2nd, have you EVER seen such a fuse fitted in a van ,motor home etc

Just for your information I am an electrician with over 65years experience with all types of equipment including eqiupment whose output current is in the tens of thousands of amps range
Now that does make a splat
I do KNOW more about circuit & equipment protection than you could even imagine
I have a lot of understanding, as head service technician for a large electrical & heavy engineering co servicing a greater range of equipment in use & sold by them than you will probably ever see
I was head electrician & contractor's licenseholder for the same co [supervising all their Engineering works maintenance electrical staffj until retirement

What are your qualifications????

Peter
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FollowupID: 748370

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Thursday, Dec 29, 2011 at 00:14

Thursday, Dec 29, 2011 at 00:14
HI Dion
Another chance for you to show your amazing knowledge about batteries

Do you know what actually causes most batteries to explode?

Please inform us ,who believe in the Easter bunny, the actual process, stage by stage.

Then perhaps you could inform us of the precautions needed with batteries especially in the RV area, to minimize the risk of explosions,

Just to make it easy ,we will settle for flooded lead acids & AGMs

Peter
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FollowupID: 748371

Follow Up By: Dion - Friday, Dec 30, 2011 at 13:20

Friday, Dec 30, 2011 at 13:20
Hmmm Oldtrack123, even with your claimed 65 years experience, I'm tipping I've probably forgotten more about batteries that YOU still have to learn ;-)

(So that most deffinantly puts me out of the 1st year apprentice category) however decades of nurturing batteries BIGGER and with capacities in excess of what you could imagine.

Kindest regards,
Dion.
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FollowupID: 748440

Follow Up By: Dion - Friday, Dec 30, 2011 at 13:22

Friday, Dec 30, 2011 at 13:22
Hmm Oldtrack123, A wise old owl once said never argue with a fool, as they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.

Before I get dragged down to that level, Adious.

Kindest regards,
Dion.
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FollowupID: 748441

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 30, 2011 at 23:12

Friday, Dec 30, 2011 at 23:12
HI Dion
I will let others make the final decision on who is the fool

Your very first post, was some of the worst CUDSWALLOP I have ever seen & showed you did not have a clue about the real electrical world

Your further posts just added to the heap of CODSWALLOP

I note you did not answer ANY of the questions put to you ,why??

So I'll add two, more what size are those big banks of batteries [voltage &capacity] & what size FUSE do they have to protect them

All the above should be easy with all that amazing knowledge you have about batteries & caring for them

The FACTS are simple:
[1]Both fuses &/or OLCBs are used to protect cables upstream from them from overheating due to excess current
[2]Both fuses &/or OLCbs are used to protect devices they are connected to from overload ,or excessive damage if an internal short occurs
[3]Many devices have internal fuses or OLCBS for the same reasons as in[2][
[4] some sources are self limiting in current & do not require fuses or OLCBs if the cables are adequate to carry the limited max current
[5]most sources do have some form of protection against overload that may be fuses .OLCBs or a temperature sensitive cutout
But additional protection is required downstream unless the source is only supplying a single device
The fuse may then be rated to the cable or the device which ever is the least,
[6] Generally all cables should be protected at their source with suitably rated protection [fuses or OLCB]

Fuses come in many types,"fast blow ,"slow Blow'' HRC "[high rupturing capacity ]., "HRC motor start"[ a delayed type HRC] , different voltage ranges , with different voltage rating depending on the current being AC or DC ,
[some not suitable for high voltage DC particularly with inductive loads,]etc

OLCBs come as ."Thermal ",, "Magnetic"& combined "Thermal magnetic"
Each has a specific purpose

Then we have the temp type cutouts fitted within the device & operates on actual temperature, not current

Each has a purpose, dependent on where it is fitted

All the above are well recognised & accepted in the Real electrical world where lives & property depend on the correct use

But if you can point out & EXPLAIN why any thing I have posted is CODSWALLOP please do so

I am big enough to stand the embarrassment

Peter
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FollowupID: 748485

Reply By: Evakool - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:58

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 12:58
Hi Marty,

The recommended fuse size is a slow blow 10 Amp glass fuse, I would suggest getting another fuse of at least 10 Amps and see if you may have just had an issue with the last fuse.

If the issue continues, but the fuse does not blow straight away I would suggest the fridge is okay but there might be an issue with the fuse holder.

One option that might be happening is the contact point inside the fuse holder, between the fuse and the fuse holder, is incorrect.
This could be causing an increased resistance which can cause voltage drop, heat and increased amperage usage.


We now use 15 Amp circuit breakers inside the Evakool RF series fridge / freezers and this might solve your issue.
If you would like to install a circuit breaker in your Evakool just email me at service@evakool.com.


Thanks.
AnswerID: 473348

Follow Up By: obee1212 - Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 20:48

Monday, Dec 26, 2011 at 20:48
When the frig cranks up it pull a lot of amps for a few seconds. Not the rated as read in the brochure. Maybe your fridge is carked but then you got nothing to lose if you accept above advice.

Owen
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FollowupID: 748176

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