emergency diesel tank repair

Submitted: Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 11:23
ThreadID: 92087 Views:2336 Replies:5 FollowUps:9
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Good morning. I'm getting the spares kit ready for our next trip. On "old" posts I have seen reference to Plastic metal from CBC bearings.

Is this the best option still?

Similarly is there a quick fix for fibre glass water tanks?

Thanks
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Reply By: Happy Frank - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 11:26

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 11:26
I have used a product called Quick Steel with success. It is a 2 part epoxy available at Bursons or Supercheap.
AnswerID: 478605

Follow Up By: Skippype - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:54

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:54
Brilliant stuff..Over the years I have used it on diesel tanks that have been holed or split and have never had a problem with it. The tank does not have to be empty to use it either. Seems to last even if the tanks are moved and bounced around.
Skip
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Reply By: Crackles - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 11:35

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 11:35
Depends where the hole is. In the past I've just cleaned the area around the split with petrol, rubbed some soap into the hole (wiping away the excess), then build up several layers of silastic. This is a flexable repair that will get you out until it can be welded properly. If the tank has split, something like plastic metal would probably just crack again but still worth carrying for other repairs. I'd go silastic for temp fibreglass repairs too.
Cheers Craig...........
AnswerID: 478606

Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 13:19

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 13:19
Yes Craig, I would agree with you about using silastic for both steel and fibreglass tanks, or poly for that matter. But I don't understand the use of soap. What is that for?

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Crackles - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 13:31

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 13:31
This is asuming there is still fuel in the tank so if you just put silastic over the split, the diesel (or petrol) will keep leaking out & it will never stick. As the soap doesn't get disolved by the fuel it will fill a 2 or 3 mm hole (as long as it's not under pressure) giving the silastic time to cure. We found 4 or 5 thin layers of silastic will cure faster than putting a big blob on & normally right to go overnight. (Bloody long range fuel tanks, give me a Jerry anyday ;-)
Cheers Craig..............
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Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:09

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:09
Ah yes, good point, thanks Craig. You certainly do need a clean oil-free surface for the silastic to adhere, so there is probably need to have a degreasing solvent available also.

Agree that several thin layers of silastic will cure quicker than a thick lump.

Cheers
Allan

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Reply By: Member Andys Adventures - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 14:26

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 14:26
I always carry a stick of silver solder and a butane soldering iron.
Tried that plastic metal when up Cape York but only lasted a day before cracking.
Andy
AnswerID: 478616

Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:20

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:20
Andy, I hope you are not going to use that on the fuel tank. We would miss you. LOL

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member Andys Adventures - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 21:51

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 21:51
Used it on the old tug when the plastic metal didn't work. Also used it on metal jerry cans where the seams split. as long as you don't have fumes in the tank there is no bang. Dig a hole and line it with plastic drain fuel into hole then fill tank with water, drain water from tank them solder it up, refill tank, problem fixed. This is a tried and tested way.
Andy
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Follow Up By: Member - Ron O (VIC) - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 22:00

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 22:00
l used the plastic putty on the radiator comming out of wadeye and its still on there now good stuff dont travel without it
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Reply By: D&G - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 14:36

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 14:36
Thanks everyone
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Follow Up By: Member - Oldbaz. NSW. - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:47

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 15:47
If all these fail, dont be frightened to try soap mixed with dust off your rim...make a
soft paste with water & apply to cleaned area. Lasted 10 years on my old Peugeot
diesel..metal tank though............oldbaz.
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Reply By: Rockape - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 21:43

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 21:43
D&G,

I did a permanent on my rear tank after I damaged it on a rock outside Quilpie.

Was only a weep so I waited until I got home and used "Knead it" for the repair.

Wiped off the area with shellite and sanded back, made up a small amount and before applying it I wiped down with shellite again. When the Knead it had gone off I sanded it and applied a larger amount around and over the weep area. I have had no problems with the repair. Diesel does not affect it.

Many of the stock car racers use it for a fix.

I am affraid the old days of welding up a full diesel tank have gone due to work place H&S. Although many earth moving boilermakers still weld them up full.

have a look hereKnead it
AnswerID: 478657

Follow Up By: Member - Longtooth (SA) - Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 23:04

Saturday, Feb 25, 2012 at 23:04
A mate of mine used a piece of magnetic sign material after thoroughly cleaning the area of the leak. Says it was still there after a year and a half. It was a company vehicle and when he returned home nobody bothered to repair the leak as there was no puddle under the tank. Good thing it was a steel tank.

Might put a piece in amongst all the other stuff before the next trip.

Longtooth
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