Colorado Clutch problem

Hi Doug
I also have colorado 2010 3.0ltr turbo diesel, sounds like engine oil or gearbox oil entering the bell housing not clutch fluid could be rear main bearing seal gone, or coming from gearbox (not likely).

hi doug t
if a slave cylinder leaks from my experience of them they are externally fitted on the bell housings of every vehicle i have seen (excluding any irish built ones lol )
the fluid would drip off onto the ground not go into the bell housing in general
terms
there could be exceptions where it might be wind forced past a damaged rubber boot of the clutch fork depending where it is on the b/housing in relation to the
clutch-fork booteven though its a 2010 model fubber boots can have a stick go through them any time in rough conditions

i would , like others believe that the engine rear seal is leaking and/or the gearbox front seal but more likely to be the engine rear seal but in saying that ****

is the clutch slipping or shuddering which are usuall related symptoms of oil on or between the pressure and clutch plate
was it losing fluid before putting new slave cylinder on ?????
was it crunching gears???
if the clutch fluid level keeps dropping in the master cylinder it would most likely be the fluid pipe fitting is x-threaded into the slave cylinder body which in that case you will see c/fluid dripping from around the pipe union or
check to see if there is a crack in the fluid pipe between the master clinder and slave cylinders and it might be seeping down the pipe from higher up
slide the fingers along and up the pipe to see if it is wet which could have been caused by a flying rock or maybe a stick whacking the pipe
if the master cylinder is faulty usually the pedal will have not much pressure and will go the the floor and stay down there
if the slave cylinder is faulty the fluid usually by-passes the internal cup with-out moving the clutch fork and hence not opening the pressure plate which makes it impossible to get any gears and/or crunching them hope you can follow this somewhat lenghty imfo
cheers
barry

Has anyone got a diagram of the Slave cylinder in a workshop manual , the owner is not sure about the placement of a washer where the feed line connects, is it directly under the bolt head, or is it under the connector pipe.

.

Doug, sometimes these leaks are hard to isolate. I would get the vehicle up on blocks or ramps so that you have easy access to get in there and clean up the whole area with metho. (make sure everything has cooled down 1st) Then wash it down with detergent and water. Wait 'til it dries, get under and observe what happens when the clutch is operated several times in succession. Be patient, because the leak may not be immediately evident. No need to have the engine running. (safety reasons) You may be able to see the source of the leak that way. (eg Have you peeled the boot back on the new cylinder?)
Cleanliness is important. Hard to trace a leak if the surrounding area is covered in oily muck.
Cheers,
Bob.

Doug, just a thought it sounds like the m/cyl may have a problem.
Nearly impossible for hydraulic fluid to get into bell housing from slave cyl.
Be aware that the engine oil is very light, could you confuse this with b/fluid?
Hope this helps
Bushy.

Colorado's have a problem with rear main seal leaking, have had mine replaced under warranty, also two bell housing bolts go straight into oil galleries in the back of the block, have had those done under warranty as well, so common that the dealer has the parts on the shelf for both fixes.

cheers Ross.

If it is leaking fluid into the bell housing the piston primary seal in the new cylinder is faulty/no good.
Has to be replaced.

These cylinders are closecoupled to the bell housing and the push rod can't be seen. It might also pay to check the length of the push rod isn't allowing the piston to travel too far out of the cylinder.

It is either cylinder travel too far OR most likely faulty new cylinder.
If it is a 2010 model the cylinder shouldn't be stuffed and a seal kit may be all that is required to get it back to serviceable. It shouldn't be worn/scored or pitted just yet.

PS If the vehicle has been serviced recently by the dealer. The DUD or DUDE, you choose, who adjusted the release bearing freeplay, may have adjusted the rod too short and allowing the piston to fail.
SO, if it happened just after a service you know who is at fault, don't we.

Ross M

...is it too far from a dealer for warranty?