Importing a Van from the USA

Tks peter, transformers is the big one I am getting mixed messages on this hopefully I can hear from someone who has recent experience in Qld. As for the width the van itself is ok sound like I might just have to strip some of the extras.

Cheers for the info, we actually do a lot of importing mainly second hand machinery so we know albout the inspections to get them in the country and yes it can be very painful. Like anything but you really need a clear idea about the actual certification process and the person or persons who do the sign off. All of the things listed don't scare me greatly but if I can locate a person who has done the process recently I may avoid some of them.

Hi Ray,

If you import 2nd hand machinery you will know the ins and outs of AQIS inspections, we have also imported a fair amount of machinery and if you have all your ducks in a row it's not much of a problem, We use Interport in Brisbane as they have their own inhouse AQIS Officer who will work with you on any problems, they also have an AQIS washdown area.
We bought in a boat on a trailer a couple of years ago. What we did was get an Unregistered Permit, changed the tail lights to Oz ones with the amber blinkers and away we went home.

At home we went through the VMS and added a second set of brakes, put on an Oz compliant hitch, new safety chains. Fronted up and got a Safety Inspection (QLD), weighbridge cert, went to Transport and it took about 20min to get it registered. Actually they issued a "home made" Vin plate.

Here is a post from the Caravan Forum you may not have seen...

If you wish to import a caravan and register it here in Australia, this is what you need when you present yourself at the Registration Office.

1. A Vehicle Registration Application (get from your rego office. Look it up on the net and read it thoroughly. Tells you what you need. If you are not sure, ring them and ask.)

2. A Vehicle Import Approval (issued under regulation 11. in the resistors name, and with the VIN number and tec detail on it)

3. A legitimate Bill Of Sale from the Seller, with the correct VIN Number on it (Proof of Origin)

4. A current weighbridge Certificate, again with the VIN number on it (proof of category, proof within specs on VIN plate) (check your Safety Cert re it)

5. A Safety or Inspection Certificate.

6. A Gas Certificate

No where does is mention electrical certificate. Maybe Cabcar can advise.

The Rego Centre will go over the above docs.
They will check their data base (most major overseas manufacturers have their VINs on our data base).
They may tell you they will not accept the existing VIN plate - got something to do with their data base and what is on it.
In this case, they will sell you a VIN plate, and they will advise you how to register it. i.e. in the current manufacturers name, or possibly Homemade (might not do that any more).
They may ask you have another plate attached re 'import' or something. They will tell you what to put on it.
For all engraving of plates, go to your local trophy shop, and they will do it correctly for $10-$20
Best way to attach, is drill holes in corners, then tek screw on body, beside old VIN plate.

But, you may go straight thru to the next step, with original VIN plate.
Then they will take you outside with the tape measure and measure the Van up, do the calculations, then it is inside to do final paperwork, pay your bucks, and get a registration plate.

So 1st, look up the Vehicle Registration Application. It tells you exactly what they need.


Read this, and fully understand it, especially 21.3, 21.4, 21.5, 22.1, 21.2, 21.3, 24,
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... ne2009.pdf

Be careful with 21.3. This is what can stuff you up with American and some European equipment re width, BUT, having said that, I have a very good friend with a 26' Bayliner Cruiser on a trailer, which exceeds this 2.5m, and he has some form of right to tow after some hour in the morning and before some time in the evening.

You need an understanding of this too
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... index.aspx

A really good source of info is a good shipping agent.
They know the rules.
That is their profession.
I have physically dealt with idiots who have cut corners to save money and it has cost them thousands.

The bottom line is this - don't listen to me - and please don't listen to the half-wits and their half-baked assumptions. Get info from a Shipping Agent, the above sites, your rego office etc. This is not rocket science. If you can spell your own name and count to 10, you are "in".

tks heaps very helpful

good point, although mighten even get into some parks as it has a slideout as well

Just to clarify the 2 x 240 circuits.
There are 2 input sockets fitted to the outside of the motorhome.

If he needs the second power source (for aircinditioning or microwave) he said, he will pay for a second supply when in a van park.

A little complicate but the simplest he could think of at the time given his requirements.

Bruce thanks heaps this info will get me along way, will ring those guys re a transformer.

Quote - "As far as we know there is no need to fit the door on the left side (NSW) as that is only a requirement on a passenger carrying vehicle and as we all know it is illegal to carry passengers in a moving caravan as it is a trailer, not a passenger vehicle.

"The left door requirement is applied to motorhomes as the authorities do not want the only door or the emergency door opening into the line of traffic as it would when fitted to the right side in Australia."

From which documents did you glean these gems? If you refer to VSB-01 you will see:
"22.1 Doors

"A caravan or trailer equipped with cooking facilities or living or sleeping accommodation must have only outward opening or sliding doors. At least one such door must be located on the left-hand side or at the rear."

There is no mention of passenger vehicles in that piece.

Bruce, could you see approx what your brother paid for the transformers, there's ones on eBay 5000watt for $140. Some websites talk about isolated ones and they cost about $800 but I can't seem to get info to say I shouldn't use the ones for $140. Obviously I realize they could be crap but I am more interested in the difference in normal and isolated. If your brother has normal ones and has had success then that works for me..

Hi Ray,
I will be down at the motorhome tomorrow and talking to the brother as wel so I will get back to you. When I asked him about the cost of the tranny before he said he could not remember but I think it was close to a grand.

Whether he can still find that info I can't say for dure but I will endeavour to get the specs of it tomorrow.

.....................

Hi Peter, Thanks for the heads up re VSB 01.
Much obliged.

Quote - " Some websites talk about isolated ones and they cost about $800 but I can't seem to get info to say I shouldn't use the ones for $140"

This is an excellent example of why standards are formulated to protect the public. For starters there are replies on other forums posted by licensed electricians who know the regulations stating that it is not permitted to be used in recreational vehicles and portable accommodation. In regards to to the cheap transformers they are ll of the autotransformer type. If you use one of those and someone uses a crossed power lead you end up with one of your 110 V conductors with a potential of 240 V to earth and the other 130 V.

Peter thanks heaps for the info you have been a great help read all about autotransformers on the Internet, very interesting. All I gotta do now is find a 5000watt isolated one. As for the standards everyone one I have spoken to uses them in their RV , boats and vans, weird.

Tks heaps bruce thought as much, I think I have all the info I need now. I can also confirm the Aussie standard doesn't allow for them these days but what will be will be. Just gotta make sure it's all safe.

That's the go Ray, SAFE.

Cut a corner to save a few measily dollars and you could cause injury or death to one of your family and then you could never live with yourself after that, could you.

Not sure if you know but all power points in a van have to be double pole as well. Meaning they switch the Neutral as well as the active. A little more expensive but there again, SAFE.

Cheers mate and hope it all works well for you.
Bruce.

Statutory warranty is the responsibility of the manufacturer if manufactured in Oz or the importer. When you import a van you are the responsible person.

Also you have responsibilities under consumer protection legislation that extends for a 10 year period (the Competition and Consumer Act 2010.) When you pass on your imported van you are still the responsible party under that legislation. You as the importer are responsible for the work undertaken (or not undertaken) to prepare the vehicle for sale and registration in Australia.

Thats a real gotchya. Never thought of that one. Even after you sell it!!

Thanks

Peter