Mysterious Electrical Gremlins at work here?
Submitted: Wednesday, Oct 17, 2012 at 20:36
ThreadID:
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3
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Member - Jack
Hello folks ...
Mysterious Gremins at work here. I also admit I have absolutely no knowledge or understanding of auto electrics. This should become evident as you readers work through this. Bear with me.
Today I removed the lower dashboard panel of my 1991 Landcruiser in order to fit a new radio/MP3 player. All went
well and the new player works perfectly.
Installed into the dash is a simple (on/off) switch with 3 contacts, which turns my
driving lights on. This is wired into the high beam circuit. In the past only two of the three contacts have been used and the lights function as they should.
I thought I had put it all together as it came apart, except that this 3 contact switch has a small led light that has never been connected. I connected the third (and as yet unused) terminal to earth. On reassembling and testing that everything was working, to my astonishment, the
driving lights came on on low beam, but not high beam. Incidentally, the little led works, letting me know that I have
driving lights on (on low beam).
I have spent half the day trying every possible configuration with this switch (there is a red and black wire to the switch for the lights) believing that I had just put it together incorrectly, but without success. I either get the
driving lights on with low beam, or no
driving lights at all. The headlights are fine.
I have gone back to see if I have busted any wire connection, but all seems OK.
I'd be happy to have anyone let me know what I have done wrong and how can I fix it.
As usual, my thanks in advance.
Cheers
Jack
Reply By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 01:09
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 01:09
Hi Jack,
This certainly does sound very odd however there is sure to be a logical reason for the operation you describe.
For a start, the drive for the
driving lights would (or at least, should) come from the high beam circuit and if so could only operate when the high beam is activated as they once did. Are you quite sure that you are observing the high and low beam activation correctly? Because if you observed incorrectly then the system would be operating as you describe. If you are sure then you could try the following:
Remove all wires from the switch then temporarily join the red & black wires that go to the driving light circuit. Now switch on the headlights and go from low to high beam to see in which case the
driving lights come on. If that test is satisfactory return only those two wires to the switch, switch the headlights on and select high beam, then check that the driving light switch is operating correctly, changing the wires to different terminals until it does.
Then connect the earth wire to the remaining terminal and check the LED operation. If the LED is not operating correctly try reversing the red and black wires whilst leaving the LED earth wire where it is. If the LED still does not work correctly then it suggests that the wiring to the
driving lights is in the 'earthy side' of the circuit and you will not be able to use the LED.
Now if the above does not produce the required result then I can only suggest that you do indeed have Gremlins fooling with your electrics and it may need the application of a multimeter and a bit of electrical understanding! LOL
Let's know how you get on.
AnswerID:
496894
Follow Up By: Bigfish - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 08:49
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 08:49
Possibly red led light needs positive and not earth wire?
FollowupID:
772623
Follow Up By: member - mazcan - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 12:52
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 12:52
hi
i'm with bigfish i believe the led need12v power - not earth wire
FollowupID:
772634
Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 13:40
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 13:40
Switches with included LED and having 3 terminals normally have the LED anode (+ve side) internally connected to the load terminal and the LED cathode (-ve side) connected to the isolated "led" terminal which then needs to be wired to earth. Connecting the switch's "led terminal" to +ve will be "reverse" for the LED and it will not illuminate. Such switches are not suitable for negative-line switching if you want the LED to work. Switches are available with both LED terminals isolated internally from the load contacts and therefore having a total of 4 contacts (or even 5 contacts if changeover type) are available and can be wired for negative switching circuits.
Bear in mind that Jack has said that his switch has 3 terminals and the LED did illuminate when he earthed its terminal.
If Jack does have a negative-switched light circuit then he may not be able to use the LED feature, which may be the reason it was not connected in the first place.
FollowupID:
772639
Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 13:52
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 13:52
Gents,
Below is an LED toggle switch I bought from Jaycar recently.
In Jack's case, power from high beam circuit would go to POWER, and then ACC would go to SW, on relay, and the ground would go to earth, or negative.
The LED gets its power(3/5 of bugger-all) from the high beam circuit.
You can swap the Power/Acc leads around but if you do, the LED stays on all the time the lights are on.

LED Toggle Switch
That's what I worked out, after much bad language :-)))
Bob.
FollowupID:
772640
Follow Up By: Allan B (Member, SunCoast) - Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 14:41
Friday, Oct 19, 2012 at 14:41
Yes Bob, this switch is of the type I described above. For the LED to operate the switch must be used with the 'Power' and 'Acc' in the 12v positive line with 'Ground' connected to negative.
FollowupID:
772714
Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 11:28
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 11:28
Jack,
I had a similar problem recently when I fitted an LED light bar to my 79 series. Already had 2 Hella 4000's fitted so decided to use a seperate switch(with led) for the light bar. Also replaced the old relay with one of those New Era double relays, the ones with 2 x 30 amp fuses visible on one side.
After the initial set-up, only had
driving lights on low beam, and what should have been a piece of p*ss turned into a frustrating couple of hours. Funny how a little mistake can make 12v positive/negative circuits into a Black Art!!!
Before going further should mention that I have an ARB or similar, heavy duty wiring loom fitted,(and HID headlights.....sssshh) so had to to take the high beam switching as a loop to the relay and D/Light switch. This meant the relay was not earthed directly, but through the normal Toyota headlight circuit......hope I'm making sense of this?
To control the light bar, ran a wire from the original D/L switch, off the input side, across to the new led switch. This saved running extra wiring all way from high beam plug, under the bonnet.
Think where I went wrong, was I didn't put the new relay into the "loop", and just earthed it. Once I changed the wiring, and included the new relay into the "loop" from the high beam circuit it all, thankfully, started working properly.
Don't know if this rave has helped you Jack, but you ring me if you want. 0427 727 302. These Toyota negative switching circuits can create some pain, trying to get them to work.
Bob.
AnswerID:
496903
Reply By: Member - Jack - Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 17:07
Thursday, Oct 18, 2012 at 17:07
Thank you all for your replies and assistance. Friday is 'electrical' day, so I shall work through your responses and post and update as to my results.
The pic of the led light has exactly the same contact setup as
mine, so it is an encouraging start.
Thanks again.
Jack
AnswerID:
496922