electric brake controller

Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 14:26
ThreadID: 99223 Views:3327 Replies:6 FollowUps:12
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I'd like to install by myself an electric brake controller but reading here and there raised a doubt.

Installing an electric brake controller by myself (I am not qualified), might have insurance implications in case of incident? Any specific regulation or approval is required in Australia for brake controllers?

What is your experience and/or opinion?

Cheers,
Nick
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Reply By: Batt's - Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 15:32

Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 15:32
I don't see a problem as long as you follow the instructions and the wiring diagram I had a prodigy installed by an auto eleco once he put it at about a 70deg angle the instructions said no more than 30deg I fixed it then rang him he wasn't aware of that wonder how many others he done an how insurance would cover his blunder. I do most of my own lots of things are made for DIY these days
AnswerID: 499348

Follow Up By: nick DG - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:34

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:34
Totally agree Batt, that's why I want fit it by myself.

Cheers,
Nick
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FollowupID: 775406

Reply By: member - mazcan - Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 16:01

Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 16:01
hi nick
if you buy a decent one you dont have to worry about it been level prodginy 3 or the redarc are 2 of the better ones if you know how to join 12 wires and about the wire gauge/sizes then whats the issue
you dont have to have a license to fit a brake controller just common electrical sense of how it goes together
if your not confident then dont do it
i've done all my own 12 v stuff for years and never had a problem
cheers
AnswerID: 499350

Follow Up By: Nomadic Navara - Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 23:47

Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 23:47
"if you buy a decent one you dont have to worry about it been level prodginy 3 or the redarc are 2 of the better ones ."

There is no way I would class the RedArc as "one of the betterones." See thread 99225

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Follow Up By: nick DG - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:34

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:34
Hi mazcan, I decided for Tekonsha Prodigy 3, 4 wires
Agree with Nomadic Navara, probably the RedArc is not the most advanced tool.

Cheers,
Nick
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FollowupID: 775407

Reply By: Bush Wanderer - Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 19:30

Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 19:30
Nick, depends on how advanced your vehicle wiring is. Some modern vehicles need auto sparkys that are experienced with bus wiring, less advanced ones are super easy.
If you fit it yourself don't forget to put a 20amp circuit breaker close to the battery....a legal requirement.
BW....
AnswerID: 499370

Follow Up By: nick DG - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:35

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:35
Bush Wanderer,
actually I was told that my LC78 2012 has a bus supporting the Tekonsha Prodigy plug-in but I should order the cable in the US, too complicated.

I didn't know that a 20A CB was a legal requirement, thanks for mentioning that.

Cheers,
Nick
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FollowupID: 775408

Reply By: Member - John and Regina M - Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 22:30

Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 22:30
Ask your insurance company, including the one that insures yr trailer.
After all, they're the company you will rely on to do the right thing when needed.

After all, they can refuse a claim if you work on your car/trailer and it contributes to a claim.
AnswerID: 499383

Follow Up By: nick DG - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:35

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:35
John and Regina M,

your answer worries me. Why you think RACQ (my insurance company) could refuse a claim if I work on my car/trailer? Is that illegal? I would like insist on that aspect. Any lawyer reading the forum?

Actually in EU is forbidden and and incident could lead to pretty serious implications, not just with the insurance company.

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FollowupID: 775409

Reply By: Ross M - Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 23:25

Wednesday, Nov 28, 2012 at 23:25
If using a Tekonsha Prodigy it requires 4 wires to be connected.
One wire from the battery through a thermo type circuit breaker which will reconnect when it cools. This probably never be activated but allows for some braking to be had even if there is a wiring fault.
Don't place this in a hot place as it may be close to being held open by engine bay heat especially if positioned near turbo radiant heat. Do not use plain fuses because if they blow you don't have trailer brakes at all.
A second wire is an earth wire for the unit.
A third wire, an activation wire, is usually supplied from the same wire that runs your stop lights at the back of the stoplight switch. If a VW or modern vehicle with a CANBUS system you can add a micro switch, which supplies 12v from the battery to the activation wire. Just make sure the micro switch switches on at the same time as the original stoplight switch does and before braking of the vehicle actually begins. This way it has no effect on the vehicle wiring loom system.

The last wire is the one which runs to the trailer plug for supplying the modulated brake energy signal to the magnets in the wheels.
AnswerID: 499389

Follow Up By: nick DG - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:35

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:35
Hi Ross,
thanks for your suggestions.

Cheers,
Nick
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FollowupID: 775410

Reply By: The Bantam - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 01:22

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 01:22
A well set up rig with a good proportional controller is an absolute joy.

I have seen a near maximum capacity tandem equipment trailer towed behind a 4 wheel disk fairmont.....stop in very short order and in a very controlled way in an emergency...whisps of smoke comming off all 8 wheels.
I've run rigs that stopped better with the trailer on that the car alone.

If you are not running one of the well regarded proportional controllers you have rocks in your head.

There are quite a few, either fixed or timer bassed controllers out there......and they are frankly piss poor in comparison to a good proportional controller.

Either you will have to sacrifice breaking efectivness or put up with jerky braking and lock ups.........either way.......frankly dangerous in many situations

serilusly think about changing to a better controller.


cheers
AnswerID: 499398

Follow Up By: nick DG - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:36

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 11:36
Bantam,
totally agree. thats why I go for proportional controllers.

Cheers,Nick
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FollowupID: 775411

Follow Up By: Shaker - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 14:57

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 14:57
If it stopped better with the trailer, it must have had electric hydraulic discs, otherwise we would all be going back to drum brakes on our vehicles.
There would be nothing more agricultural or archaic than electromagnetic drum brakes.
I can't believe that we are letting manufacturers get away with it.
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FollowupID: 775432

Follow Up By: The Bantam - Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 23:49

Thursday, Nov 29, 2012 at 23:49
When the fairly small trailer has 10 x 2 inch drums and the vehicle has 8 x 1 1/2 inch rear drums the trailer can make a considerable contribution...that is a hell of a lot more friction area

It is not hard for a smallish electric braked trailer to contribute more stopping power than mass, if the maker is not stingy with the brakes.
Thus the combination stops better than the tow vehicle alone

electric brakes are generally leading shoe arrangements so they do not require a lot of pressure to achieve braking effort.

In fact disk brakes require more hydraulic pressure than drums to achieve braking effort.

The main reason for using disk brakes on cars is heat disipation, they are only particularly advantageous on fast moving vehicle that make repeated and or sustained stops using the brakes.....discs can also achieve longer pad life than drums.

The main reason for using electric, hydraulic disks is water resistance, this is why they are very common on large boat trailers and not on caravans

Look at heavy transport only a very few have disc brakes, there are pretty well no disk brakes use on heavy transport trailers.

For outright braking effort discs are no better than drums, in the applications we are talking about.

But I do agree that the general standard of light trailer engineering is very low.

After all we still have cable operated over ride brakes in common use....and people have spent good money encorpirating electric brakes in their trailer ( over $1000 retail per axle) and they wont cough up a few extra bucks ( arround $200 total) to get a good cotroller.

cheers
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FollowupID: 775484

Follow Up By: Shaker - Friday, Nov 30, 2012 at 06:59

Friday, Nov 30, 2012 at 06:59
Would you buy a vehicle with 4 wheel electric drum brakes?
You didn't mention the bad fade that drum brakes suffer, I don't think that electric trailer brakes are 2 leading shoe.
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FollowupID: 775492

Follow Up By: The Bantam - Friday, Nov 30, 2012 at 10:05

Friday, Nov 30, 2012 at 10:05
No I would not buy a pasenger car with 4 wheel electric brakes, because they can not produce the pedal feel , and repaeted high speed stops, that a power assisted modern disc drum, hydraulic system will.

That said it would not surprise me if we see cars with electric brakes in the near future...afterall, electric power steering is now common.

And yes I did mention the fade that drum brakes suffer....I noted that disks have better heat disipation.

My understanding is that almost all electric drums are twin leading shoe arrangements like most of the drum front ends on pre disc pasenger cars

This is why it is imperitave to have them fitted to the correct side of the trailer and why they do bugger all going backward.

BUT, adequately sized, electric drums, properly set up and controlled by a good proportional controller are about as good as it gets for light trailer braking.

One of the problems is that like most things in light trailers.....what is fitted is the minimum for compliance.

cheers
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FollowupID: 775506

Follow Up By: Shaker - Friday, Nov 30, 2012 at 16:30

Friday, Nov 30, 2012 at 16:30
I would have thought that the best trailer brakes would be electric hydraulic, such as the Carlisle system.
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FollowupID: 775531

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