Comment: Cape York

Planning a trip in July will be a 3 week trip from Brisbane any ideas on what best to see and trek to travel
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Reply By: DaveO*ST-R - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 08:32

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 08:32
Hi,

I'll start it off with some comments and questions. 3 weeks is not a lot of time to do the Cape so you will have to limit what you see & do. What sort of vehicle are you driving? Are you towing a camper, tenting it, swags etc? Alone or in convoy with others?

I have travelled to the tip twice in the last 4 years. For me, the pinnacle, apart from the tip itself, was the iconic Old Telegraph Track, a must do for me. Hence the reason I ask what vehicle etc. Are you into full on 4WDing? The OTT is not that difficult, but there are pitfalls if you are not careful. You need to thoroughly research the OTT and make up your own mind. There are plenty of YouTube videos of crossings like the 1st one south to north at Palm Creek and the last one at Nolans Brook where a lot of vehicles drowned this year !!!

The Peninsula Development Road is fine straight to the top but can be badly corrugated in places, dependent on time of year, when it was graded etc. It doesn't take long to deteriorate. We were there in late July, early August and it was pretty good considering. Other places you could consider visiting - Weipa, Chilli Beach, Captain Billy's Landing, Frenchmans Track (YouTube the Pascoe River crossing), Vrilya Point. A day trip to Thursday Island was great too.

Just a few thoughts of mine. I am sure others will be able to assist more. Have a look as well at the My Swag forum. A bloke on there has been leading groups of forum members to Cape York for a number of years and the reading/photos/videos etc may well give you all the information you need.

Cheers,

Dave


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Follow Up By: Christine H2 - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 08:42

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 08:42
we are driving a Jeep Wrangler and will be towing a camper Trailer we are alone at this moment
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Reply By: tuck - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 09:55

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 09:55
Interesting. What do you call alot when drowning. Why are they drowning eg no snorkel!
not checking depths ! bogging down!
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Follow Up By: DaveO*ST-R - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 11:00

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 11:00
From what I have read, around 30, yep 30 vehicles drowned at Nolans this year alone. And yes, probably 1, 2 or perhaps all of the above reasons may have applied. There are plenty of posts on various forums about vehicles being towed to Seisa from Nolans to be put on the boat back to Cairns !! Nolans was deep this year and has a soft sandy bottom to catch out the ill prepared. Call it bad luck, wrong line, too fast, inexperience, whatever you like, it happens. Here are but 2 examples ... (mind the odd expletive)


Nolans Brook Prado 2012

Nolans Brook 200 Series 2012


Apologies to the OP for getting a bit off topic. But this is why I intimated in my original reply that if you do the OTT, you need to do your research and be thoroughly prepared on this track and all its crossings.


Dave

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Follow Up By: Dave(NSW) - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 11:57

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 11:57
As well as the 30 odd drowned (meaning motor stuffed) there is probably another 100 odd that had water seep in side the cabin, We had seven in our group and six got stuck but all vehicles got some water in them.
Cheers Dave.
GU RULES!!

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Follow Up By: Mal J - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 12:07

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 12:07
We were there at nolans around late july this year and there were around 40 vehicles drowned to that date so the full season would have been many more.
Most vehicles come from the south so its the last crossing and its a fair distance in time to back track out to the developement road so you can hear them saying 'we've come this far, no turning back now'.
So once anyone commits to cross the most common problem is bogging down in the soft sand.
4 vehicles crossed from south to north while we were there and 2 drowned and 2 winched/towed out with motor still running while 5 vehicles crossed from north to south with no problems at all (all took the narrow lefthand side exit).

If you decide to do it make sure the camper is water tight!

Cheers
Mal
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Follow Up By: wozzie (WA) - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 19:02

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 19:02
When we were going up around late July he count at that stage was 42 for Nolans alone. That was vehicles actually going back on barge, stuffed. In camp at Seisa, we had a vehicle either side that spent 3 ~4 days stripping carpets and all out as they had filled up at Nolans.

On the way back some 4 weeks or so later, we ran into some people who were No. 46, who told us that the total (stuffed) was then up around 50 odd.

We got back the Mt Carbine caravan park, where we had left our Jayco, and was told that by that stage it had climbed to 63.

Although going out to a few of the crossings for a look, we chickened out (had no intention) of adding to the totals.



Tony

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Reply By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 11:11

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 11:11
Hi Christine,

You don't mention if there are kids involved but if there are (particulary very young ones) it would be a rushed trip. To put that into some perpective, we have done the trip a few times with the last trip being our shortest (4 weeks) included two young families. It was a very fast trip for the kids in particular as they needed their breaks etc.

We passed through Lakefield via Laura (not Cooktown as it was too time consuming) then onto Weipa and from there to the falls before a side trip to Verillia Point. Then onto Punsand Bay and Iron Range on the return. All stops were a couple of days and overnighters which meant a lot of setting up and packing with little time to enjoy the trip.

I don't mean to put a damper on you planning but it is 1800k from Brisbane to Cairns and another 1000k to the top which is a long way. Having said that our first trip in 1993 was only 4 weeks and we had a great time just be mindfull there will be little time to put the feet up.

Kind regards
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Reply By: Mark T6 - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 12:11

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 12:11
We travelled to the Cape in July-August of this year.

I to am from Brisbane, so I'll list what we did for you.

We took three days to do the Bruce and get to Cairns, stopped at Rocky and then Townsville.....we had a couple of nights in Cairns (which we had done before but it was an opportunity for a last stock up and recheck everything)...From there to the Daintree (great spot for 2 nights) and from there on the Bloomfield Track to Cooktown. Personally (due to the wind) I didn't like Cooktown, we had 3 nights there but that could be cut to 1. From there we went up through the Lakefield NP (nice trip and roads in good order) staying overnight at Kalpowar Crossing (I'd spend 2 next time) and then over to join the PDR at Musgrave and over to Chilli Beach (also windy but we managed a camp spot out of the wind). We did 2 nights there, visited Portland Roads and the Lockart River airport (to see the 2nd world war memorial). Then across to Weipa for 2 nights to resupply...not much to see there but we enjoyed it. From there up to Bramwell Junction and the Old Telegraph Track...more on that now.

The first crossing is pretty tough (Palm Creek) BUT there is a detour around it, just ask Jamie at Bramwell Junction. And I'd agree Nolans Brook is terrible and we avoided that BUT the rest is doable and part of the magic that is the Cape.

We had a few nights at Twin Falls / Elliot Falls....great spot, highlight of the trip!!

We did all of the OTT except Nolans Brook, even with a snorkel I wasn't going to take my Prado near that....but fun to watch others try!!

From there we went to Loyalty Beach, great campground and facilities...we had 4 nights and did the Tip and Thursday Island on two of the 3 free days.

We then expressed down to Laura, and then back to Brisbane with another 2 nights on the way home....so about 3 1/2 weeks all up. We did miss Captain Billys Landing (which I hear is nice) but we thought we'd got our "fix" at Chilli anyway.

Great trip, do it again tomorrow
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Follow Up By: Christine H2 - Monday, Dec 10, 2012 at 10:16

Monday, Dec 10, 2012 at 10:16
that sounds a good trip and very much doable
thanks
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Reply By: tuck - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 14:55

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 14:55
Looking to go june 2013. Was Nolans and the first river deep and boggy due extra water or due to alot of vehicles chopping up the bottom due to spinning wheels. I assume there are no by passes for these two
What are the conditions like going from Port Stewart thru Running Creek to Musgrave
Understand could be different next year
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Follow Up By: tuck - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 15:01

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 15:01
Also going to mention is it easier to go north south or south north due to drop offs and maybe traffic
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Follow Up By: DaveO*ST-R - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 16:07

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 16:07
Mods - if this is going too far off topic, feel free to do what you need to do.

Tuck,

Nolans Brooks is the last crossing if you go south to north. It always has a soft sandy bottom that does get churned up. The water is crystal clear and deceptive and the depth changes year to year. Plan your route through etc and you might be OK. Up to you ! There is a bypass off the top of the head near Sam Creek? We camped at Canal Creek, left the campers and day tripped it up to Nolans and back for a sticky beak. Not a snow flakes hope was I putting my 200 series through with the chance of drowning it, so we bypassed it this time. 2 years earlier I did Nolans with the camper and it was easy. The very first 4WD we watched through Nolans got stuck and filled with water!! Luckily he did no engine damage that I could see but he did need towing out.

Palm Creek is the first xing going north. The water is no issue, only hub height at best. It is the entry and exit that is interesting. Again there are plenty of YouTube videos showing this. One example - Palm Creek August 2012 Most people got down it OK, albeit with a crash and bang and the odd bent side step/sill but say 4 in 5 either had to winch out or get towed up the last 10 metres or so of the exit.



You can bypass Palm Creek, but it involves about a 60km detour? No big deal. We did not see one vehicle attempt Palm Creek north to south. Would loved to have seen one try !! Would have been entertaining.



South to north on the OTT is most people's preferred option, it is just that bit easier that way.

Dave
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Follow Up By: tuck - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 17:15

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 17:15
Thank Dave
Confirms my thoughts will naturally check when we arrive but not interested in drowning the bus when we come all the way from SA
Interested to know if any bother to deflate or check tyre pressure as bottom is soft sand even if there has a metre of water on top
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Follow Up By: DaveO*ST-R - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 21:27

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 21:27
Can't say - didn't ask. I ran about 25 psi along most of the OTT. If I was doing Nolans, I would have been down to around 18' maybe less !!!
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Follow Up By: Dave(NSW) - Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 22:27

Friday, Dec 07, 2012 at 22:27
I droped mine down to 13psi from 26 and just got through. The sand is that soft next time I would go to 10psi just for that crossing.
Cheers Dave.
GU RULES!!

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Reply By: Mark T6 - Monday, Dec 10, 2012 at 11:03

Monday, Dec 10, 2012 at 11:03
We camped at Bramwell and went down to Palm Creek for a squiz that afternoon before doing the OTT the next day. We did see a guy come through from the North, the exit out (the one that claims all the side steps going the other way) was that steep he had to winch out, and even that was tough going. Water is no issue here only entry and exit.

South to North it's doable, the other way is also but you'd have to say far more extreme.

Whilst having never tacked Nolans personally, I'd agree with the above comment re tyre pressures.....I'd take them down to maybe 12 PSI, put on your water blind and probably attack it fairly hard IF I was doing it. I elected to bypass with my 2 year old Prado as I felt it just wasn't worth the risk, but it's certainly fun to see people having a crack.
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Reply By: Lyn W3 - Monday, Dec 10, 2012 at 13:21

Monday, Dec 10, 2012 at 13:21
Don't forget to camp at Charlie's Mine outside Coen. Great Place.

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