BT 50 Ingition connection.

Submitted: Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 15:59
ThreadID: 99848 Views:22095 Replies:9 FollowUps:17
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G'day

I have recently purchased a DC to DC battery charger for my 2012 Mazda BT 50.
I am having trouble finding a 12 volt supply that is only available when vehicle is running.
All points I can find have 12 volts available all the time.
Can anybody help?

Thanx
Peter
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Reply By: Honky - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 16:05

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 16:05
What brand of DC to DC charger as the Ctec has a built in isolater and would disconnect when voltage drops anyway?

Honky
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Follow Up By: phasar - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 17:06

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 17:06
G'day Honky

The charger is a REDARC BCDC 1225-LV
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Follow Up By: Notso - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 18:18

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 18:18
That also has an isolator built in apparentlyBCDC1225LV
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Reply By: wombat100 - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 18:17

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 18:17
This is gonna sound weird......windscreen wiper motor !!


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Reply By: Crusader - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 19:30

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 19:30
Hi Peter,
I have done exactly what you are going to do in a 2012 BT50 Freestyle. I used a Redarc DC - DC 40amp charger.The best source of an ignition switched voltage I could find was at the fan motor under the glove compartment on the passenger side. One of the wires there is 12v + and goes off and on with the ignition.

I also used a delay on timer so that the the charger is not enabled for approx 45 secs after the the ignition is turned on so that there is time for the glow plugs to have done their bit, the vehicle started and the alternator to be doing it's thing.

I also put a little LED under the steering column that lights up when the charger is active.

Cheers

Crusader
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Follow Up By: phasar - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 19:52

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 19:52
Thanx for the quick replies Wombat100 and Crusader.

I suspected the wiper motor but it's a bit difficult to access.

I like the sound of the fan connection, will try tomorrow.
I also like the idea of a delay timer.
Crusader, could you give me more details of timer?
make,model etc.

I am using the REDARC BCDC1240 with 12 volt + solar input
and jump start circuit but with the 25 amp charger.

THANX VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP.
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Reply By: Crusader - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 19:32

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 19:32
Hi Peter,
I have done exactly what you are going to do in a 2012 BT50 Freestyle. I used a Redarc DC - DC 40amp charger.The best source of an ignition switched voltage I could find was at the fan motor under the glove compartment on the passenger side. One of the wires there is 12v + and goes off and on with the ignition.

I also used a delay on timer so that the the charger is not enabled for approx 45 secs after the the ignition is turned on so that there is time for the glow plugs to have done their bit, the vehicle started and the alternator to be doing it's thing.

I also put a little LED under the steering column that lights up when the charger is active.

Cheers

Crusader
AnswerID: 501944

Reply By: Crusader - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 20:35

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 20:35
Peter,
I used a Redarc TIM06 Delay on timer in the charger enable wire - which is the wire connected to the vehicle ignition source. It's blue I think from memory. It depends a little on which model charger you have but that's what I have. I discussed the setup with Redarc before I went ahead but I could see an issue if your auxillary battery was well down.

It works really well - I hope this has been helpful. Message me if you want more detail.

Cheers

Crusader
AnswerID: 501949

Reply By: hoppa14567 - Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 22:05

Monday, Jan 07, 2013 at 22:05
G'Day Phaser
I own a new PX Ranger with the system as yours.
What I done as I did not want to cut into any wiring was to use a wired fuse which I purchased at Jaycar for about $7. Using the cars fuse box under the bonnet, fuse no 35 feeds the passenger compartment electrical system. I removed the original fuse and replaced it with the wired fuse which when ignition is off - no power, ignition on - +12 volt, engine running - charge rate approx 13v, ignition off - no power.
With the wired fuse tail which I connected to a relay through terminal 85, terminal 86 to earth. terminal 87 became 12 volt feed wire from battery and terminal 35 went to accessory item.
I have wired a redarc BCDC 1220 ign charger this way to turn on/off and have found it to be fine.
Can also be used to switch accessories on/off.
Also with this way you do not cut any wires and can easily be removed.
Hope this helps.
John.
AnswerID: 501957

Reply By: BluePrint Industries Pty Ltd - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 01:13

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 01:13
Hi Peter,

There are two empty fuse slots in the under bonnet fuse box that are switched on by the ignition. I will have a look tomorrow and try and send you a photo. From memory they are towards the outside(fender) and front of the fuse box.

However the wired fuse mentioned elsewhere is a great idea as well, but you have to be careful with the computer, as if any circuit draws too much current for what is expected the computer will shut it off. I had this when they fitted led lights for my parkers in addition to the standard ones.

One other word of caution. the Aux/Cig sockets in the car stay alive all the time, so if you leave anything plugged in eg laptop/phone etc, it will flatten your battery in a pretty quick time.

I'm running the Redard 1240, and a 190W solar panel as well and the system works well.

Regards

Kurk
AnswerID: 501967

Follow Up By: BluePrint Industries Pty Ltd - Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 21:37

Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 21:37
Here is the location of 2 points in the under bonnet fuse box that are switched by the ignition.





There is only the input side for the fuse so you would need to connect to it.

Hope this helps.

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Follow Up By: phasar - Thursday, Jan 10, 2013 at 11:48

Thursday, Jan 10, 2013 at 11:48
G'day Kurk

I presume the two empty slots are F40 and F49.
Is this correct?

Regards
Peter
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Follow Up By: BluePrint Industries Pty Ltd - Thursday, Jan 10, 2013 at 12:18

Thursday, Jan 10, 2013 at 12:18
Sorry 37 & 38, Fog ligh and seat warmer which those of us with the base model don't have.

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Follow Up By: phasar - Thursday, Jan 10, 2013 at 12:57

Thursday, Jan 10, 2013 at 12:57
Thanx Kurk

That makes more sense, I had been looking at F40 and F49.
They appeared to be o.k. (maybe) but had a 30 second timer associated.

You are correct F38 is seat warmer, but F37 is headlight manual leveling system.

Maybe, after many weeks playing around with this project I will get a completion.

Many thanx to all who contributed.

Regards
Peter.
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Reply By: Rockape - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 07:09

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 07:09
Peter,
here is another good place for info. Even though it is a new Ranger forum the vehicles are close enough in build to suit your quest for information.

I have gleaned a fair amount of info from the site.

Have a look HERE

RA.

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Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:09

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:09
I had a look at the Redarc BCDC1220 installation notes and it is the same as that for the Ctek D250S Dual DC-DC charger I have installed.

The input source for the charger should be from the primary (starting) battery.
Both the Ctek and the Redarc have a current capability of 20 amps and connecting to any other source as inviting trouble.

By connecting to the primary battery terminals and having a fuse protected circuit to the input terminals on the dc-dc charger, the in-built isolator will control what happens at any given time.
For instance, when the vehicle is idle (engine not running, the isolator will disconnect the circuit to the dc-dc charger.
On starting the vehicle, the isolator will first check the voltage of the primary battery and only after it has detected an appropriate voltage level at the primary battery, will the circuit to the dc-dc charger be energized and the charging process to the remote battery begin.

I would not even consider connecting the input to any other source than to the primary battery terminals, using an appropriate heavy duty twin core cable.

Bill


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Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:16

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:16
Just one point of clarification.

As the installation states, the input positive should be connected to the positive terminal of the primary battery.
The input negative should be connected to a common earth of the vehicle, such as the point where the negative terminal connects to the engine block or chassis.

Bill


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Follow Up By: Rockape - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:30

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:30
Bill,
I believe the Redarc has an small ignition sensing wire so it isolates the charger from the battery when the ignition is off.

Have a good one,
RA.
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Follow Up By: Crusader - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:38

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 19:38
Yep,
RA is quite right - I don't think anyone was suggesting that the charger input should come from the fuse block or fan motor - this is simply for an enable to the charger.

The Redarc instructions quite clearly say that the input battery + should come from the primary(starter) battery positive and in the relevant model charger an input from the ignition is required also.

Hope this clears it up

Cheers

Crusader
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Follow Up By: hoppa14567 - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 20:28

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 20:28
Hello,
That is correct that the charge has to come from primary/starter battery. All I am doing is switching the redarc charger on/off through a relay as it requires a ignition circuit (Model - Redarc bcdc1220 IGN).
The Rangers alternator charge rate can be below switching voltage of many dcdc chargers and that is why this charger is switched by the ignition and not primary battery voltage. And as the rangers wiring does not have an available ignition circuit I had to tap into another source to switch the charger on/off only. As mentioned earlier, this wired fuse was put through a relay so there is only the load off switching relay only.
The charge wires to the charger are still attached to battery/ earth as described by redarc schematics.
John.
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Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 20:59

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 20:59
OK, sorry guys.

I wasn't aware that particular model had an ignition sensing feature.
(a bit superfluous in my opinion when a model with a smart isolator works just as well and more simple to connect up).

As an aside, I picked up an ignition operated circuit on my Colorado for the electric brake controller in a rather unique way.
GM Holden market a fuse adapter which is basically a dual circuit adapter with a blade fuse for each circuit.
After determining an ignition switched circuit protected by a fuse in the fuse block either in the engine bay, or cabin, (every vehicle would have at least one) you simply remove the original fuse (say 10 amp) and insert the adapter in its place. You then reinsert the original fuse to complete the original circuit, but the adapter has a short wire from the second fuse protected circuit, to which you can splice in the new circuit, such as the ignition sensing requirement of a brake controller, or the Redarc BCDC1225-RV dc-dc charger.

I have two in use in my vehicle as the Colorado has rather thin wiring, thus making it difficult to splice directly into the wire.
The fuse adapter fixed my problem and is easily removable if required.
Bill


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Follow Up By: Rockape - Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 21:47

Tuesday, Jan 08, 2013 at 21:47
Bill,
there is certainly some good gear out there now to make life much easier.

RA.
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Follow Up By: Crusader - Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 05:15

Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 05:15
Bill,
The fuse adaptor doofy thingy sounds like a good idea - have you seen them as an after market piece of kit anywhere other than Holden ? And if you don't mind saying are they very pricey through them?

Cheers

Crusader
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Follow Up By: Rockape - Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 05:26

Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 05:26
Have a look HERE

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Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 07:06

Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 07:06
That is a good find and certainly much much cheaper than the Holden part, giving the same functionality.

Well done.
Bill


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Follow Up By: Rockape - Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 07:36

Wednesday, Jan 09, 2013 at 07:36
Bill,
I have been doing a lot of wiring on my new Ranger and have been checking out what is available.

I use Derek at ABR sidewinder a fair bit also, as he is very helpful and delivers good quality products quickly. Some of the circuit breakers, battery boxes, circuit breaker covers are really great now, and at a priced reasonably.

RA.
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