BT 50 Ingition connection.

G'day Honky

The charger is a REDARC BCDC 1225-LV

That also has an isolator built in apparentlyBCDC1225LV

Thanx for the quick replies Wombat100 and Crusader.

I suspected the wiper motor but it's a bit difficult to access.

I like the sound of the fan connection, will try tomorrow.
I also like the idea of a delay timer.
Crusader, could you give me more details of timer?
make,model etc.

I am using the REDARC BCDC1240 with 12 volt + solar input
and jump start circuit but with the 25 amp charger.

THANX VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP.

Here is the location of 2 points in the under bonnet fuse box that are switched by the ignition.





There is only the input side for the fuse so you would need to connect to it.

Hope this helps.

G'day Kurk

I presume the two empty slots are F40 and F49.
Is this correct?

Regards
Peter

Sorry 37 & 38, Fog ligh and seat warmer which those of us with the base model don't have.

Thanx Kurk

That makes more sense, I had been looking at F40 and F49.
They appeared to be o.k. (maybe) but had a 30 second timer associated.

You are correct F38 is seat warmer, but F37 is headlight manual leveling system.

Maybe, after many weeks playing around with this project I will get a completion.

Many thanx to all who contributed.

Regards
Peter.

Just one point of clarification.

As the installation states, the input positive should be connected to the positive terminal of the primary battery.
The input negative should be connected to a common earth of the vehicle, such as the point where the negative terminal connects to the engine block or chassis.

Bill,
I believe the Redarc has an small ignition sensing wire so it isolates the charger from the battery when the ignition is off.

Have a good one,
RA.

Yep,
RA is quite right - I don't think anyone was suggesting that the charger input should come from the fuse block or fan motor - this is simply for an enable to the charger.

The Redarc instructions quite clearly say that the input battery + should come from the primary(starter) battery positive and in the relevant model charger an input from the ignition is required also.

Hope this clears it up

Cheers

Crusader

Hello,
That is correct that the charge has to come from primary/starter battery. All I am doing is switching the redarc charger on/off through a relay as it requires a ignition circuit (Model - Redarc bcdc1220 IGN).
The Rangers alternator charge rate can be below switching voltage of many dcdc chargers and that is why this charger is switched by the ignition and not primary battery voltage. And as the rangers wiring does not have an available ignition circuit I had to tap into another source to switch the charger on/off only. As mentioned earlier, this wired fuse was put through a relay so there is only the load off switching relay only.
The charge wires to the charger are still attached to battery/ earth as described by redarc schematics.
John.

OK, sorry guys.

I wasn't aware that particular model had an ignition sensing feature.
(a bit superfluous in my opinion when a model with a smart isolator works just as well and more simple to connect up).

As an aside, I picked up an ignition operated circuit on my Colorado for the electric brake controller in a rather unique way.
GM Holden market a fuse adapter which is basically a dual circuit adapter with a blade fuse for each circuit.
After determining an ignition switched circuit protected by a fuse in the fuse block either in the engine bay, or cabin, (every vehicle would have at least one) you simply remove the original fuse (say 10 amp) and insert the adapter in its place. You then reinsert the original fuse to complete the original circuit, but the adapter has a short wire from the second fuse protected circuit, to which you can splice in the new circuit, such as the ignition sensing requirement of a brake controller, or the Redarc BCDC1225-RV dc-dc charger.

I have two in use in my vehicle as the Colorado has rather thin wiring, thus making it difficult to splice directly into the wire.
The fuse adapter fixed my problem and is easily removable if required.

Bill,
there is certainly some good gear out there now to make life much easier.

RA.

Bill,
The fuse adaptor doofy thingy sounds like a good idea - have you seen them as an after market piece of kit anywhere other than Holden ? And if you don't mind saying are they very pricey through them?

Cheers

Crusader

Have a look HERE

That is a good find and certainly much much cheaper than the Holden part, giving the same functionality.

Well done.

Bill,
I have been doing a lot of wiring on my new Ranger and have been checking out what is available.

I use Derek at ABR sidewinder a fair bit also, as he is very helpful and delivers good quality products quickly. Some of the circuit breakers, battery boxes, circuit breaker covers are really great now, and at a priced reasonably.

RA.