Anderson extension
Submitted: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 17:43
ThreadID:
132579
Views:
3716
Replies:
4
FollowUps:
2
This Thread has been Archived
Member - Odog
Hi all
I have an Anderson plug on the rear of the prado, for the ct.. But have just purchased a battery box for somewhere, in the rear of the car, for an up coming trip, without the ct.
We wish to fit an Anderson plug in the rear of the car, to charge the new battery box, which I'm planning on placing a 105ah deep cycle agm In.
This will be via a 1240 bcdc redarc, under the bonnet.
Just wondering, which is the best way to go about it, do I cut into the existing cable to the Anderson plug on the rear, and just run that up inside the rear of the car?
I had a look at it this arvo, and the anderson plug looks like you would not be able to fit another set of wires into the plug, due to the thickness of the existing cables.. Any suggestions on this would be a big help, I'd like to do it the right way.. Cheers all Odog
| Some people want it to happen, some people wish it could happen, others make it happen! Lifetime Member
My Profile Send Message |
Reply By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 17:55
Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 17:55
This is a simple way to do it if that works for you?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221597714097&globalID=EBAY-AU Piggy back lead
AnswerID:
600783
Follow Up By: TomH - Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 21:14
Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 21:14
Personally I reckon the cabling on that is fat too light to decently charge a battery or run a fridge.
You should use something like 8 B & S as a minimum.
6mm automotive as that has is like a bit of string in comparison.
I used 6 B& S for my batteries in the van and 8 B&S for the fridge.
No voltage drop with them
FollowupID:
870151
Follow Up By: AlbyNSW - Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 21:19
Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 21:19
I don't disagree with you on that and didn't even take note of the cable size or length
I was pointing out the concept of an easy way to do it but yes you need correct guage to suit your situation
FollowupID:
870152
Reply By: HKB Electronics - Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 17:56
Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 17:56
From the sound of it and it is only a guess it sounds like the car is already fitted with a VSR?
If this is correct then simply running another wiring run form the VSR to the new battery would probably achieve what is required.
If you must have the charger then keep in mind if you replace the possible existing VSR with a charger then tap into the wiring at the rear that the charger will not get an accurate picture of the state of charge of the batteries due to the length of cable concerned.
Also keep in mind that the charger will also be charging all the batteries so if you have batteries in a trailer for instance you may actually lengthen the recharge times.
AnswerID:
600784
Reply By: Member -Pinko (NSW) - Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 18:02
Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2016 at 07:50
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2016 at 07:50
The best way would be to run a minimum 8 B&S twin cable from the primary battery to the rear inside of the car, terminating in an Anderson connector.
Then plug in the Redarc to this and then to the battery box.
If you want the best for your camper too, you could incorporate a Y cable (also in 8 B&S) so you can run a patch lead cable of the same size to connect your camper to. This will give a better solution to control charging of both the auxiliary battery and the camper battery bank from the Redarc 1240 bcdc.
In any case, I would not mount the Redarc under the bonnet. Too hot in there and the Redarc dc-dc charger is not cheap.
I run a similar setup but use a Ctek D250S, which in my case is mounted in the camper boot, next to the two 100Ah batteries.
I just run a "patch lead" from the Anderson connector via a "Y" cable, one run to the auxiliary battery box, which has its own built-in isolator and another run out the tailgate to connect the camper to.
AnswerID:
600802