Simpson Desert

Gday guys,

I’m preparing to cross the Simpson from East to West in mid May. I’ll be travelling in a V8 Troopy. Is it reasonable to get from Birdsville to Dalhousie springs in 2 days/ 1 night, if we take the QAA/ French path? I’m happy to have long days driving, not stuff around too much and perhaps do some night driving. Thoughts?

Can anyone give me some insight regarding expected track condition in mid May? Will it be extremely soft? Do I need a winch/ anchor. Will 240l of diesel be enough?
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Reply By: Member - John - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 06:48

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 06:48
Ben, your post begs the question, why so quick a trip?
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:31

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:31
It’s just a trip I want to do. We have a 5 day time frame to get from Adelaide to Alice Springs, due to family, work, other commitments the list goes on. I saw an opportunity to tick this off my list instead of driving straight to Alice down the boring old south road. With only me and my mate and no kids and wife in tow I thought a perfect time to do it. I know it will be an extreme challenge, but it will be worth the memories. Thanks
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Reply By: Stephen L (Clare) SA - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 07:49

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 07:49
Ben

Think you better go to another destination.

Why is it a marathon to cross the desert?

As for night driving, you have no idea on what the desert is like to drive and not just a straight forward drive.

It is bad enough at day, with many dunes having sharp turns at the top and night travel could be dangerous and regardless how good your lights are, it would be like driving blind.

Just my thoughts, but why rush a great drive.
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:39

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:39
It’s just a trip I want to do. We have a 5 day time frame to get from Adelaide to Alice Springs, due to family, work, other commitments the list goes on. I saw an opportunity to tick this off my list instead of driving straight to Alice down the boring old south road. With only me and my mate and no kids and wife in tow I thought a perfect time to do it. I know it will be an extreme challenge, but it will be worth the memories. Thanks

I figured night driving would not be wise, and you have cleared that for me. I definitely will be doing it btw, just a bit differently to most. Looks like I’ll be allowing 3 days to cross. Might have to cut out a stop on the way from Adelaide to Birdsville
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Follow Up By: Michael H9 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 13:10

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 13:10
Lots of things can go wrong, especially things like weather events that can strand you for days, and if you're short on time then you're asking for trouble in my opinion. If it was me I'd do the Oodnadatta track, Halligan Bay, Mt Dare, Dalhousie return, Old Andado, Chambers Pillar and the Finke Desert race road to Alice. If crap happens then you can get around it and still make your destination, plus all of those places are well worth the effort. Save the desert for a more relaxed trip. Here's me who's driven Perth to Sydney twice non stop, (with 2 drivers of course), saying that. :-)
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 19:41

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 19:41
Thanks for responding mates. I am fully aware it’s a tall order and will be stressful at times, but may not get an opportunity to do it for a long long time. Me and my car are as experienced as we can be in “out there” 4WD tracks as we can be-for this, without actually having done it. I always find I enjoy the memory and feeling of accomplishment perhaps more than the gruelling drive time.

If weather or mechanical issues arise I’ll take that as it comes, if it means more time away…That’s that! And I’ll deal with then.

I have definitely considered alternate easier routes, but have already been most places around there and really want to do the Simpson. Fingers crossed!!

Thanks again!
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Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 07:52

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 07:52
Late May 2017, I travelled Birdsville-Mt Dare on French Line, to meet up with some mates before a trip to the Geocentre. First evening I got to the Knolls turnoff & camped, jets passing overhead for much of the night!

Second night, camped just west of FL junction with the Rig Road, the only delays being a chat to 2 blokes in a Hilux & a look at Erabena oil well. Got to Mt Dare around 4pm on 3rd day, after 30 min chat to EO member & his mate Jim, at Dalhousie. Used 80L for the trip, a well loaded V8 LC ute with alloy canopy.

Would be 2 big days to get to Dalhousie in that time frame. A bit of night driving might help you achieve your goal, but at “normal” average speeds, you’d be travelling well into the night to make any appreciable distance.

A run down the K1 & along Rig Road would be quicker, but greater distance so not sure you’d gain any advantage?

Bob



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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:40

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:40
Thanks mate! Good info
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 19:30

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 19:30
Hello again!

I just had time to sit down and cross reference your itinerary with hema maps. That tells me:

Day 1 you travelled 206km from Birdsville to Knolls track turn off.

Day 2 you travelled 88km from knolls track turn off to the western rig road turn off

Day 3 you travelled 207 km from western rig road turn off to Mt Dare

If you can remember, can you give me any idea how many hours you were driving each day? Was it 6am- 6pm?

Can you recall which sections were the worst?

Thanks again!
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Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Thursday, Apr 14, 2022 at 11:02

Thursday, Apr 14, 2022 at 11:02
No worries, Ben.

The first & second day would have been 8-8.30am departures & around 5pm finish. Except for a quick dinner & a stop at Poeppels to sign the book, I was hooking in all the first day. QAA Line varies in quality. Good running between most dunes, and across the salt lakes, but there's some decent sandhills that are often cut up these days, so can be slow going to traverse them. As others have mentioned, you'll often strike people having difficulties, or larger parties that hold you up.
Second day I went up to Erabena oil well, about 14kms return, and chatted once or twice to a pair of fellars in a Hilux. Probably worse section, with plenty of dips & whoa boys.
Third day, similar start time, 4pm finish. Chatted at Purnie Bore to young bloke for maybe an hour & would have spent a similar time chatting to Dozer & having dinner. From Dalhousie to Mt Dare is usually pretty good travelling, as long as you go through Bloods Creek! Take the short cut at your peril!
If it were open, I'd definitely recommend Warburton. Refuel at Mungerannie, after devouring a "Burger with the Lot", over the Warburton & onto Rig Road for your first night. Going from the Creek into Simpson is pretty good Station road, before hitting the Sandhills country.

Bob

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Reply By: Life Member - Duncan W (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 10:09

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 10:09
To add to Bob's comments, you also need to add in delays caused by convoys and people getting bogged on the dunes. All things that will hold you up.

Unless you have an absolute reason to be pushing it, I'd slow down somewhat as it could be hell on you and your vehicle. The dunes could be really cut up by then and if you go like a bat out of hell up the dunes all you'll do is bounce all over the shop and send you and your gear through the roof and your suspension through the floor pans.

Your winch is only as good as the anchor points available and they are few and very far apart. Take recovery boards, low tyre pressures, and a compressor, and most importantly a mate to use the shovel.
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:43

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 12:43
Thanks mate. Yep will have all the gear just not a winch as I have never really seen a good reason to have one yet! Just planning my days at this stage as we have only 5 nights to get from Adelaide to Alice Springs between me and my mates busy schedules. Good info, cheers!
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Reply By: Member - Bigfish - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 13:46

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 13:46
Is it any wonder people get stuck in remote areas and rely on others to risk their safety because someone didn't listen to experience. You come across as a typical suburbanite who has a fanciful idea that racing across a hwy or area is a must. Why not plan it sensibly and listen to what others have said. All gungho and no idea doesn't make for a safe trip..especially travelling at night.
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Follow Up By: Member - Duncan2H - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 14:36

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 14:36
Rather harsh..
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:01

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:01
Yea great advice there!… said no one ever. I am currently trying to plan this trip based on the advice of others on this forum…hence the post. Just because I want to do it efficiently doesn’t mean I shouldn’t. I certainly wouldn’t want to be relying on you for any help in the bush. Most people have a general understanding that sometimes things go wrong in the outback, no matter how well prepared you are and that helping people in need goes with the territory. I grew up in the bush and yes, I do live in a suburb in the small town I’m from….I think it’s hardly fanciful to want to efficiently drive the Simpson crossing, the one section of that country I haven’t seen given I have an opportunity. Maybe you should refrain from actively discouraging people from 4wd exploring on such a forum. Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Bigfish - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:12

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:12
Your idea of efficiently is different to others that have replied to your initial post. Efficient means doing something using least amount of time and for greatest outcome.. Experienced people have advised you against doing the trip in the time frame you have presented. With good reason too. I don't think that you will take any notice of the people who have said it is. Every post here has advised you that you should not do it in such a rush . I couldn't care less if you do it in 24 hours to be honest. I,ve helped many broken down travellers in my treks in very remote areas. All had the good sense to plan for their trip and my help was only minimal in most cases. You asked for advice and the jury has said that its silly to do it the way you want.
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Reply By: Member - peter_mcc - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 15:54

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 15:54
I think you'd be pushing it to get across that quickly. Have you considered leaving the night before and driving for a few hours to get some km's under your belt.

How about taking a short cut across Warburton Crossing? This gets you into the middle of the Simpson more quickly and save 200kms of Birdsville Track. According to Google Maps it's 371kms from the turnoff to Birdsville and then to Poeppel Corner. If you go across Warberton Crossing it's 191kms to Poeppel Corner and the desert part is fairly quick because you're going along the swale (base of the dunes) instead of over them. You could also turn off onto the Rig Rd to make the trip across the desert quicker still.

You'd have to check the crossing is open though - it's currently closed.

Last time I did it the roads from Dalhousie to Alice weren't in great condition - the bit out from Mt Dare (from memory) was really rocky and we slashed a tyre sidewall.

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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:05

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:05
Thanks for the response mate! Yes I have already been re shaping the trip to allow an extra crossing day. It will still be hard yakka but achievable and well worth I hope. I have looked at the Warburton crossing, but I’ve got this gut feeling it’s not well traversed and could been a haven for trouble. Do you have any personal experience please?
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Follow Up By: Michael H9 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:55

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:55
I wouldn't bank on Warburton Crossing because I've barely been able to catch it open in the past 7 years. The one time I did get along the track it started raining and I got mechanical issues that forced me to turn around. It's been my nemesis, maybe you'll have better luck with it. :-)
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 21:02

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 21:02
Looks like it’s closed at the moment too, so I won’t expect it to reopen any time soon. I wonder how often the authorities drive the track to deem it open? Almost never I’d say…cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - peter_mcc - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 22:51

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 22:51
It's probably closed because there is too much water/mud at the river crossing itself. I did it a number of years ago in early October - it was bone dry. The river gauge just downstream is showing no water but I have no idea how long it takes to dry out.

https://water.data.sa.gov.au/Data/DataSet/Chart/Location/A0021005/DataSet/Water%20Level/Best%20Available--Continuous/Interval/Custom/2017/03/01/2022/04/13

You could try calling the Mungeranie Hotel - they are the closest place to the crossing. Make sure you drop in when you go past to get a drink and say hello.

There's a thread from last year about it too:
https://www.exploroz.com/forum/142007/warburton-crossing?p=/places/99979/sa+warburton-crossing

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Reply By: Member - nickb boab - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:59

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 20:59
Hey Ben your doing it all wrong mate IMO
if your going to Finke desert race ..
Best trip we ever did to FDR was to watch the race then after head across the desert with losts of other inc many motor.. bikes like minded people. really really good atmosphere , in the desert & at Birdsville afterwards..
Note : like other have mentioned , the french line is probably to rough on your car to do it in 2 days , i remember travelling in 2rd gear for long periods in my manual ranger ..the other problem is that your trying to locate other on the track heading towards each other & it blind !!
anyway happy travels
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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 21:25

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 21:25
Thanks for the response mate. I’ve already decided 3 days is a must after all the responses, which been mostly helpful. How many days did you do it in? Other than travelling in the wrong direction for best attack on the dunes, what else can you suggest I take into consideration please? Have you any experience on the other tracks?
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Follow Up By: Member - nickb boab - Thursday, Apr 14, 2022 at 09:26

Thursday, Apr 14, 2022 at 09:26
We took 3 day ( 2 night) of comfortable driving as mentioned french line most direct & busy and for that its also the roughest :(( good gps pin point your location for oncoming vehicle & constantly checking channels 10 uhf these two items are a must as you will be continually have oncoming vehicle. Early starts are the best driving time when the sand is cooler, we found most of people getting bogged was heavy vehicle in the hot afternoon . Good luck
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Reply By: Member - Wooly - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 22:44

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2022 at 22:44
Keep in mind that your average speed will be 15 - 20 kms per hour if conditions are good.

So 200 kms in a day = 10 - 12 hours driving, not allowing for any stops or any hold ups like bogged cars in front of you or any necessary detours etc.

Its a great drive so take your time and enjoy the experience.

Night driving in the desert is good fun as well.

Everything is a different world in the dark but its also difficult to maintain your orientation on the track so progress will be slower.
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Reply By: Ozhumvee - Thursday, Apr 14, 2022 at 19:20

Thursday, Apr 14, 2022 at 19:20
We've been crossing the desert since the early 80's and it has got harder as time goes on due to ever deteriorating track conditions, gone are the days of liesurely 3-4 day crossings, these days allow 5-6 for a comfortable trip allowing time to actually stop and look at and experience the country, your passengers and vehicle will thank you.
The main tracks are no longer straight but wander all over the place so maintaining a steady speed is hard and driving requires lots of concentration.
The week before the Finke desert race is absolute bedlam, a few years ago we had a friend experience a vehicle breakdown on the French line and we camped beside the track for most of that week and average vehicle numbers were in the 80's every day heading west for the race, many thought they were already competing and there were lots of unregistered bikes and quaddies, many with no helmets and riding in thongs! often at stupid speeds.
Then there were the ones in their brand new V8 twin cabs with everything that opens and shuts asking to buy fuel as when chipped and fitted with big tyres they absolutely drink it in soft sand.
Also forget about the rig road being any easier/quicker as most of it is just as slow and corrugated as the rest of the tracks. Many of the eastern approaches to dunes were that scalloped out that some of the dips were over 500mm deep as people attacked the approaches with way too much right foot and overinflated tyres.
Don't get me started on people towing trailers !
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Reply By: Peter_n_Margaret - Friday, Apr 15, 2022 at 08:18

Friday, Apr 15, 2022 at 08:18
Traffic on the French line? Why would you think that?
https://youtu.be/Hog4novnJRE
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Peter
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Reply By: Member - McLaren3030 - Friday, Apr 15, 2022 at 09:02

Friday, Apr 15, 2022 at 09:02
Hi Ben,

A wise choice to change your strategy. However, even a 3 day 2 night crossing might be pushing it, particularly from East to West. The eastern side of the dunes is generally considered to be the more difficult approach as they are longer.

We have crossed the Simpson twice from West to East, and each time we allowed 4 days 3 nights, which was a comfortable crossing. I understand the reasons behind what you want to do, however, perhaps it would be wiser to leave the Simpson for another time when you could take more time to enjoy the actual trip.

I think someone else has suggested taking the Oodnadatta and then across Hamilton Station to Old Andado and onto Finke and then into Alice as an alternative.

Macca.
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Follow Up By: Member - peter_mcc - Sunday, Apr 17, 2022 at 22:19

Sunday, Apr 17, 2022 at 22:19
The direction related difficulty will also depend on the recent traffic. We did it early June one year, east to west, a week or so after the Finke crowd had headed back west to east. The eastern side that we were going up was generally in good condition and we could hold a reasonable amount of speed on nearly every dune to make it easier without bouncing around. We often had to crawl down the western side at walking pace or slower because it was so chewed up. No doubt the wind sorts it out after a few weeks.

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Reply By: Member - mark D18 - Wednesday, Apr 20, 2022 at 17:39

Wednesday, Apr 20, 2022 at 17:39
It will be a hard slog but you could do in in 2 very big days and One night .
You will sleep well when you are finished .
I have done the crossing 8 times from both directions and it’s about the same in difficulty.
It’s easily achieved in 3 days and 2 nights .


Enjoy the trip.
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Reply By: Member - pete g1 - Tuesday, Apr 26, 2022 at 17:09

Tuesday, Apr 26, 2022 at 17:09
Gidday Ben, maybe check Thread ID 143616 for SA link to road closures. More rain forecast too.

https://www.dit.sa.gov.au/OutbackRoads


happy travels
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Reply By: Ben H21 - Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 02:45

Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 02:45
Hey guys just wanted to give an update for future interest and a thanks for everyone that gave advice. Just completed the Simpson crossing west to east. Travelled very easy from Dalhousie springs to Boulia in 3 pretty easy going days including many stops, chatting, beers at Birdsville and getting up the hard track of big red( after a few attempts). I left the desert with the feeling that a reliable vehicle is the most important thing to consider. Even a typical suburbanite like me found the overall drive very simple. I only put the troopy in 4wd about 3 times on the whole track. Big Red was the only real challenge, but you can avoid it if you want. We found there were a lot more people coming the opposite direction and they didn’t seem too stressed. I was told at Birdsville Roadhouse that a typical 4wd tow truck recovery would cost about 8k, so again car reliability and carrying critical spares is paramount. Other than that if you have a 4wd and basic driving and camping skills, go for it!
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Follow Up By: Member - McLaren3030 - Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 08:22

Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 08:22
Hi Ben,

Glad you made it OK. In your original path read, you stated you were travelling from East to West, (Birdsville to Mt. Dare), but in your update you stated that you made Dalhousie to Boulia, which is the opposite direction, which way did you travel as one way, West to East, is considered an easier crossing than East to West?

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Follow Up By: Frank P (NSW) - Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 19:55

Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 19:55
Ben,

Why did you use 4WD only 3 times on the whole track?

4WD is there to be used and it minimises track damage. Is there a reason you didn't use it much? Just wondering ....

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Follow Up By: Ben H21 - Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 22:29

Thursday, May 19, 2022 at 22:29
I only needed to engage it a few times as I easily crawled up all the dunes with the tyre pressures at 15psi. The track would only get damaged by people spinning tyres, which wasn’t the case.
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