Water piping disintegrating!

Thank you Phil....your reply agrees with the information I have so far, the constant thermal expansion and contraction being the cause.
And yes I have carried short sections of hose and the necessary fitting's for repairs for some time but never did I realize that some day the entire hot water hose system would need replacing!
While it will be relativity easy to take out much of the old and replace with the new my concern lies with some areas that will not be easy...I speak of course of where the hot water hose runs from under the van and up to the shower....in between the fibre-glass and wall, access to the the hose there may require removal of the shower cubicle, not cheap!

I guess I am fortunate that the issue has been discovered before any major damage has been done.
Woe is me.

Paul

Hi Sundowner

I was lucky enough to have a vent fitted close to the shower plumbing which allowed access to replace the hot water line. Tight fit but saved major repair job.

Here is another theory - RED is the first colour to fade in paint, perhaps it may apply in plastics as well??

Regards - Phil

Mikeee5, I dont believe there are any chemicals in exhaust emission gases that could have an adverse reaction to polymer, and my Triton that the exhaust pipe exit on the off side, the crook hose is on the near side....thank you for your input anyway
Cheers
Paul

G'day Jim, yes I have considered that and I understand the professional repairs use similar ideas....it is possible to join the old and new hoses together and gingerly feed them through...I see today that where the shower tap combo fits to the wall in the shower cubicle it is on a panel, with 4 screws..removing this will likely help...and this spot was my biggest concern..removing the shower itself to get to the hose would probably cost more than the van is worth.
If you care to read the responses to this issue below you will see how it has finished up

Thank you for your response.

Paul
Lockyer Valley
Queensland

Allan, thank you for your response, Can I say that responses like yours, and others, is testament to just how useful these forums can be.

This morning I spent some time under the van, flashlight in hand.
The cold hoses are black in color, not blue as I may have said. The hot water, where it enters and exits the HWS (Suburban) is white..under the van the white hose becomes red.
Once my initial shock, where my first thoughts were to simply sell it for whatever I could has passed I have been looking at the practicalities...as I mentioned my biggest fear was should the damage that would result if a leak developed behind a wall, or worse between the wall and the shower cubicle...looking today I see that the shower combination tap actually sits on a panel about 200 x 100 mm and held there by four screws, I am sure that once that panel is removed I would have a chance of feeding new hose up from under the floor which is directly below and only around one meter away.
Having said all that I did go over the underfloor red hose, from the HWS all the way to the rear and I was unable to find any of the cracking visible in my photo. The cracking seems to be restricted to a shortish section...maybe 2 meters in length as it runs across and secured to a chassis rail and between to John Guest connectors.
The ensuite hand basin combo tap, and the galley sink both have short lengths of the red hose coming up from the floor and connected to typical reinforced flexible hoses, they too should be easy to replace the red hose.
I note too that the little red clips that secure the John Guest connectors, designed to prevent inadvertent disconnection, despite costin a few cents each are not present anywhere in this Jayco...I am very aware of the strange things that vibrations can do, especially on Western Queensland corrugations!
Thanks again.
Paul

Paul,
You say…."The cracking seems to be restricted to a shortish section...maybe 2 meters in length as it runs across and secured to a chassis rail and between to John Guest connectors."
Could it be that hose has been replaced at some time and an inferior grade product fitted? If so then simply replacing it with quality LLDPE black hose may be your solution.
Unless you detect weakness in hoses within the walls od the van it would seem un-necessary to replace these. If you do attempt to replace any hoses within the walls you would be wise to heed my earlier recommendation of not pulling out the old hose unless the new one is attached to it. The hoses are normally installed before the linings are fitted and frequently routed through holes in the frame. Once the old hose is removed it can be difficult to thread the new hose through holes that are not directly lined up. I suggest that the new hose is joined to the old hose using a JG straight connector and a lock clip or taping over the release ring as it can easily be depressed while dragging the connector through a frame hole.

Hi PerterInSa,

What benefit do you think turning the “shore power off” when away from the van is going to have? If anything, it could see your batteries not being charged. The water pump in your van is powered by the vans internal 12 volt system. When you store your van after a trip, is it connected to a 240 volt external mains supply?

Macca.

Unless parked up and not using the vehicle, we never turn the water pumps off.
At night there is a requirement for water at the toilet and hand basin.
While travelling it provides water for putting out fires. We have an outside tap with QC and a nearby hose. Water is the only way to put out spinifex fires.
It does create a risk in the event of a hose break while driving, but we do have multiple tanks.

If night-time pump chirping is an issue, then my habit is to fix the problem, not camouflage it.
Our pumps are mounted outside and are very quiet, so the bigger risk is when a tank is empty and a pump runs continuously and is not noticed. I have overcome that by having a LED come on next to the sink to show that a pump is running.

The new build will have the water switch in a more easily accessible location for night isolation, but the travelling isolation would require a 2 way switch..... Easily done, but need to think about that one.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

.
Hi Peter,
My habit has been to leave the water pump on at all times except during storage. recent events have caused me to reconsider that.
1) Several weeks ago the poly line from the water mains to our house meter ruptured but was quickly noticed and caused no damage other than a crater in the garden until the water supply authority repaired it.
2) More recently we returned from a week away from home to find water on the kitchen floor. A braided hose to the sink mixer had a pinhole leak. Luckily, it was limited flow and appeared to have occurred shortly before our return and no permanent damage occurred. But it may have been a different story if our holiday had been for a longer period.
3) Several months ago a couple of our friends came home from an extended vacation to find their entire home flooded. A water connection within the kitchen cabinet had incurred a major rupture. Extensive structural damage had occurred. They needed to evacuate their home for months and now it has been found so substantial that the insurers are considering demolishing the house.
4) Some years ago my sister incurred significant house damage due to a water leakage in the ceiling during their absence. It was an interesting fault but I won't detail it here.

So I have now resolved to turn off the van pump when vacating. There is an accessible switch that isolates the pump and the supply to the LPG HWS. Incidentally, that switch was provided in order to be able to isolate the pump in the event of an exhausted water supply as the pump would continue to run continually. Shutting off the LPG may also be considered but not quite a simple as flicking a switch at the exit door.

And in the home, I think that I will turn off the water at the meter whenever we leave for more than a couple of days. The electrical power needs to remain on for refrigeration but is less risk due to the RCD protection.

We have had similar events to you Peter so turn the mains tap off when away from home for more than a few days.
I do leave the electricity on but turn off 240v power to the water heater.

In the van I can easily, and do, turn off 12v power to the water pump unless we need to draw water.

Back to the Red John Guest though I contacted my caravan parts supplier who said that the issues are more likely to be due to cheaper copies (Chinese?) of Guest product.

However it's still a good idea to have some connectors etc and some spare hose, just in case.

Paul

Power supply!! Yes, mate, water mains supply, you know like you get if you are on a 'hook up' site in a caravan park.
Turning off the mains power supply is not recommended, unless of course you might be a Pom....warm beer is gross!
Funny thing though, we, perhaps being over cautious, actually turn off our main supply (water, not power) at home before we head off on a trip of some length too...I do this as I know a secret: there are two types of flexible braided mesh reinforced hose, like what you probably have your dishwasher and dunny cistern......... the good type and the Chinese type.
As for deactivating the caravan 12 vdc pump, similar reasons apply, in addition our light ensuite switch is conveniently located right next to the pump switch...I know it well during my regular 2 am visits.

We might agree now that this subject has come to its natural conclusion...thanks to all who participated.
Paul
Lockyer Valley
Queensland. (The state Victorians wish to be)

Paul Re (.I do this as I know a secret: there are two types of flexible braided mesh reinforced hose, like what you probably have your dishwasher and dunny cistern......... the good type and the Chinese type).

When going away from Home for more than a day, I turn the water off the Dishwasher and Washing machine along with other items.

However in the case of the washing machine on changeover/replacement I used the inlet Hoses that came with the machine, not the burst proof hose that have used in the past. The laundry has the usual floor drainage and slope to back door, but a bad burst could reach the hallway carpet, even over a short time period… But with Insurance and other things on My Do List…..

.AI Overview
To protect your home from devastating water damage, upgrade to a dual-layer, "burst-proof" or "anti-flood" washing machine inlet hose. If the inner hose fails, these specialized hoses contain the leak and mechanically trigger an auto-shutoff valve or a visual alert, immediately stopping the water flow.

https://www.amazon.com.au/Compatible-WGA244U0AU-WGG244F9AU-WAW28460AU-914531327-1-5M/dp/B0F9SLJYTX/ref=asc_df_B0F9SLJYTX

I think it says...JG John Guest LLDPE 12 OD x 9 ID {NSF 51] [NSF 61] (MAX 10bar at 20C - 6bar at 65C) M2137/1511/20165196
Be aware though that the printing does not seem to be very durable. I could not find any printing on hoses assembled to my vehicle, despite it coming from the same source as hose that was printed, but not installed.
The printing on red JG hose is similar.

JG also supply PEX hose and fittings designed specifically for hot water applications. They are white in colour and significantly more expensive.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome

Agree. Also the hot water ones have a knock in 'stiffener' piece ans must be locked off with the little half moon lock - yet another lesson I learned the hard way haha.