Ongoing cooling saga on my 4.2 GU
Submitted: Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 21:46
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Member - Roachie (SA)
Okay....finally got the last piece of the jigsaw today, for what I hope will be the end of my cooling issues.
1)....I replaced the thermostat (thanks for the gasket Ken; a beer was opened for you here tonight, but when you didn't turn up, I had to drink it myself). Before installing the new one, I did a
test. Using the large glass bowl from a turbo oven (the lid with heater unit has long ago gone to
the tip), I placed just enough cold water in it so that the 2 thermostats would sit on the bottom in their upright position. I placed a gas ring underneath, taking care to ensure the whole lot was centered so they would heat up equally. They are both marked 76.5 deg and both cracked at the same time. I was almost going to end the
test at that point, but decided to let the heat continue to build up and lo & behold, the new one opened up about twice as far as the old one!!!
2)... Bottom hose was removed and placed to one side. I introduced the new hose to the Patrol. This new hose has been cobbled together as follows: At the top where it joins the motor, I used a piece of top radiator hose. I cut it about 4" from the end that attaches to the thermstat end. Both standard hoses have 38mm on the motor end and only 32mm on the radiator end. With the 4" I cut off, I was able to get a section which fits nicely onto the motor. Yesterday I got a piece of 32mm stainless steel pipe bent to 90 degrees; about 1 foot long overall. I joined it to the 4" bit of hose with 2x clamps. The stainless pipe points downwards (just like the OE Nissan hose does) and onto this I have attached a 23" long Vulco-Flex hose I got from Repco. (thanks very much to Hugh from WA for all your help to get me this far.....much appreciated). This hose is bendable, it has reinforcing wire moulded into the rubber as
well as a s/steel coil spring wire on the inside. This had to go down between the air-con compressor and the chassis and then bent forwards to connect onto the radiator. That connection sits underneath the a/c pulley.
3)... I refilled the radiator, (after flushing it out as much as possible including the heater), with rain water, about 2 litres of techtalloy 90+ and a bottle of Water Wetter...(see.: www.redlineoils.com.au).
After all that I had to have a couple of brown lemonades, so I'll have to wait till tomorrow or the weekend to see if the temp gauge gets back into it's hole.
If it doesn't solve the problem, I might have to save the pennies and do the "MTQ hussle".....hahaha
Cheers
Roachie
Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 22:14
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 22:14
Hey Bill,
I thought you were practically a teetotaler!
Now lets see....if I read you right, you started off at number 1 with a couple of beers prior to tackling the challenge.
Then after number 3 you had another couple of beers.
Or were the before and after actually one in the same?
You haven't told us whether the containers were glasses, stubbies, or longnecks.
Actually I'm selfish. I hope you haven't resolved the over heating problem because your updates make for a bloody good read:-)
Na! just kidding Roachie. The thermostat comparison itself must give you a certain level of confidence? Hope you have resolved your problem once and for all, then you can spend your hard earned on some new toys.
Bill 2.
AnswerID:
108701
Reply By: Exploder - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 22:36
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 22:36
Gday all.
Yeah you would hope that this has finally fixed it.
Just out of curiosity, as I am no Nissan diesel expert.
Was something changed in the internal’s of the engine from the GQ to the GU Patrol’s smaller water jacket or different flow path? With all the cooling equipment you have tried it should be having more trouble warming up than keeping cool.
How much does your rig way fully loaded with camper and all? Is it possible that you r just trying to move to much weight? Or does it do it when you r just driving around normally.
I am not having a go. Just interested as to why nothing seems to be working for you.
P.S I know a couple of people with GU T/Top’s (non Turbo) and no cooling prob’s Is it only the turbo models that have this problem?
AnswerID:
108710
Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 11:23
Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 11:23
G'day mate,
Weight is probably a factor.....even just sitting in the driveway in it's "unloaded" state, it is over 3tonne due to all the shyte I've got on/in it. Things like the heavy rear storage draw full of recovery gear; the fridge is in (and 'on') permanently; the roof rack is a fixture with rear lights and air horns all permanent; the dual wheel carrier and heavy steel rear bar; bullbar with winch; dual battery; long range tank which I keep filled up most of the time etc.
Once I load it up and hang the camper off it, I reckon I'd be looking at 4.5 to 5 tonnes all up.
FollowupID:
365518
Reply By: awill4x4 - Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 22:36
Thursday, Apr 28, 2005 at 22:36
Roachie, I've found something to be aware of with our PWR radiators. I'm assuming that yours is the same core thickness as
mine (2 rows of 26mm tubes, 57mm total core thickness) I know that yours is a GU and a diesel while
mine is a GQ and a petrol but when your doing river crossings there is a potential for the fan blades to hit the back of the radiator.
It happened to me over the weekend during a (not particularly deep)
river crossing, I didn't notice anything until a few minutes later when my coolant temps started to climb and got up to just under 3/4 on the gauge and my petrol GQ never gets this hot. The group of us stopped and when the bonnet was opened we saw the fan blades weren't turning. What appears to have happened was the blades were drawn to the core by the water and just ever so slightly skimmed the core marking the fins in a circle slightly but not damaging the tubes (very lucky there, phew!!!! ) One of the blades has then hit the top centre shroud bolt, bent the blade and jammed it against the shroud, cracking the shroud in the process. We tried straightening the blade, but no luck there as it was still hitting the shroud and rubbing the radiator core so we cut out the top centre secion of the shroud and cut the bent section off the offending blade and it was then fine. The temps returned to normal and has been no problem since.
Obviously the thicker radiator is closer to the fan so the margin of safety in regard to water crossings has been reduced. I'm thinking at the moment whether to remove the fan and cut back each blade a distance of approx 15mm to 20mm to get the clearance somewhere to what it was originally.
It's something to think about.
Regards Andrew.
ps this would apply to all thicker radiator cores, not just aluminium.
AnswerID:
108711
Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 01:20
Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 01:20
wow, you went offroad? :o
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 11:29
Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 11:29
Thanks for that Andrew....I'm all too
well aware of the reduced gap between the rad and fan. Water crossings are pretty rare over here in the country's driest state, but I do carry a placcy sheet to use as a blind when doing any crossings. Is yours a plastic fan? I would have thought it would have been and that it would have snapped back to it's original position. I'd be cautious about cutting any material off the fan blades (not sure if it would reduce their effectivness and/or balance.
Cya
Roachie
FollowupID:
365520
Follow Up By: goldfinder - Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 18:26
Friday, Apr 29, 2005 at 18:26
I also have a PWR Rad in a GU and have completed several water crossings since it was installed with no problems at all. Originally it was installed to cure air cond cutting out when loaded, towing a van and when temps were in the high 30's +. No problems since the installation. From memory I had discussions with Roachie back in the early days when I first installed it. Keep us informed Roachie on your progress and I hope you have cured it.
FollowupID:
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