How do you tell a Deep- cycle Battery from Looking at it?

Submitted: Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:49

ThreadID: 26770 Views:4816 Replies:10 FollowUps:2

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Coyote

I recently had a Dual Battery system Fitted to my GU by ARB in Brissy.. I asked for a deep cycle battery to be fitted as the 2nd battery, but it's now been 8 months, and it doesn't seem to be holding charge. Add to that the fluid level seems to drop. I've had to top it up a couple of times.. Unfortunatley like for most of us, it is stuck doing the daily grind to/from work each day, so only runs for 1/2 hr at a time. But. I have nothing running of it and it is isolated from main starting battery, when I switch the inverter on to charge a phone or whatever, it indicates low battery , or when I do run the fridge off it, it drians the battery and the fridge switches off in the first night.. (even after a long day driving)

I'd have thought a deep cycle battery would hold the charge and be able to run (dependig on variables of course) for at least a couple of days after a long trip.)

Am I asking too much of my Deep cycle battery or have I been stiffed and it is in fact a cheaper battery. It does say it is a 4WD battery on it.. The brand sounds dodgy to me as I've never heard of it.. New Generation BN70ZZ 4WD CCA 700 RC 145 is written on the side, but it may as well be in heroglyphics (gee I think I can spell).
I don't live in Brissy any more so I can't take it back to the shop. The guy who fitted it seemed pretty genuine and I trusted him (gut feeling) but I guess that could mean he's good at what he does.. I just don't know.. I had higher expectations of this system..

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Reply By: signman - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:54

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:54

`The N70ZZ is the size of the battery, and with 700CCA I think this is more a cranking battery than a deep cycle.
Maybe a call to a reputable battery shop/ auto elec may confirm your concern.

AnswerID: 131839

Follow Up By: Coyote - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:57

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:57

Yeah sounds like I better "Holler" Cheers

FollowupID: 386180

Reply By: signman - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:59

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 14:59

Just a follow up- New Generation is a brand name of Century-Yuasa so the battery does have a good heritage. I don't think it would be a 'cheap' battery.

AnswerID: 131841

Reply By: Peter McGuckian (Member) - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 15:04

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 15:04

This is a familiar story. It does sound as though they fitted a cranking battery. That said, I think for general second battery use in my GU I prefer this type. I have a 2002 GU. had a Piranha system fitted when new and they recommend an Exide Extreme battery. It lasted only just over 2 years. I have now fitted a Delkor Calcium battery which doesn't need topping up. It coped well on our last trip, running the fridge etc. I suggest you go back and get the battery checked - should be covered by warranty. If its stuffed then look at an Orbital cranking/deep cycle. They recharge in an hour which normal deep cycles dont.

I'd also read the archive on batteries - useful reading.

Peter

Peter

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AnswerID: 131842

Reply By: Coyote - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 15:23

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 15:23

Thanks All.. Don't mind my stutter on the Submit button.

Have now got the oringal Installer to comment on it and he assures me that a deep cycle battery would not be the way to go. Apparently this battery and they way the solenoid etc set up, it would be counter productive, and given that Deep Cycle Batteries generally have a 6 moth warranty, an expensive way to go. He has assured me that this is not a cranking battery, but an "Hybrid" similar to the one ARB use - Excide Extreme. Apparently my duall battery sytem links the two batteries together, rather than isolating the cranking battery altogether, then if the main battery draws down too far it gets isolated then before it gets below cranking capacity..
So.. in summary.. It appears my battery is Cactus and have ben advised to get it replaced under Warranty. (18 months warranty for Century Batteries - pretty good I thought) Thanks for the advice guys..

AnswerID: 131848

Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Tuesday, Sep 27, 2005 at 07:46

Tuesday, Sep 27, 2005 at 07:46

Coyote,

IMHO the setup that has been installed in your vehicle is NOT the best setup for a true "Dual Battery" system.

The hybrid type battery is the type that can only accept about 50% discharge before needing to recharge, otherwise battery life will be shortened.

If you are losing fluid the indication is that it may be getting too hot and thus causing evaporation. This may be corrected by fitting some sort of barrier between the second battery and manifold/engine.

Also mate, you need to determine what your real requirements are for a dual battery system.
In a practical system the prime requirement should be NO impact whatsoever on the Primary battery. That should be for starting purposes and "normal" vehicle operation only. If for any reason the second battery should go flat, or short out, it should be completely isolated from the Primary and therefore will not flatten this one too.
The next most important thing is that the second battery will provide sufficient electrical storage for the purposes you put it in for; to run a fridge & other accessories for a "reasonable" length of time.

Again, in my experience, the best (not cheapest) solution is to use an AGM style battery as your second battery. Your can discharge it much lower and it will charge again quicker than other types.
This setup, when coupled with a quality controller/isolator will give you complete and trouble free confidence that the dual battery system is providing you with the practical features you expect or require.

Without sprouting brand names, my second battery is a 55Ah AGM because that is all that could fit in the Engine compartment. This battery will run the fridge and other vehicles accessories for three days before requiring recharging and I would usually go for a drive within this period.
If not, I also have a "backup" of a portable battery unit. This "Thumper" is rated at 75Ah and will run the fridge and fluro light for a further 3-4 days if I require and as it is also an AGM style, will charge again though its own pair of controllers within 3-4 hours.

So, for what it is worth, that is my experience with the best setup and it gives me at least a week of static camping without the need to necessarily run the vehicle at all.

Bill

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FollowupID: 386262

Reply By: Member - Alan H (QLD) - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 16:23

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 16:23

I have always dual batteries for many years without problem. I use two identical cracking batteries with a solenoid (joined when switched on and isolated when the ignition is off.

I use the battery for running an engel plus powers lights etc in camper and usually has laptops etc using it as well at times.

I keep both batteries the same and replace both at the same time. They tend to last about 3 years or so and they get taken over rough roads at times.

Alan

AnswerID: 131856

Reply By: GOB & denny vic member - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 18:13

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 18:13

do a google search on century it should bring up some sort of list of batteries and models

steve

AnswerID: 131868

Reply By: Eric Experience. - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 21:47

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 21:47

Coyote.
Before you condem the battery, from what you say it looks like the battery has never recieved any charge, the loads you have put on it would be suplied by the original charge. I suspect it is not wired up correctly. To test this theory charge it from a normal charger and see what happens. If you cannot do this measure the battery voltage with the motor running it should read aprox 14.2 volts if it reads 12 volts you are not getting any charge. Eric.

AnswerID: 131914

Reply By: V8troopie - Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 23:49

Monday, Sep 26, 2005 at 23:49

Well, perhaps not by looking at it but you could tell by lifting it. Genuine deep cycle batteries are considerably heavier than equivalent size (physical) starter batteries.

This is because in starter batteries the plates are of a thin grid construction to get as large a surface area as practicable. Deep cycle batteries have thick lead plates which take longer to absorb a charge but then will deliver it for a longer time.

AnswerID: 131926

Reply By: Mainey (WA) - Tuesday, Sep 27, 2005 at 12:20

Tuesday, Sep 27, 2005 at 12:20

Yes you have a problem....

the battery does not give it's capacity in Amp Hours, it's NOT a Deep Cycle battery.

the "BN70ZZ" is the physical descriptive size of the battery
the "700 CCA" is the Cold Cranking Amps of a STARTER battery, not a genuine Deep Cycle battery
the "RC145" is the Reserve Capacity of a Starter Battery

(QUOTE) the original Installer ASSURES me that a deep cycle battery would NOT be the way to go. Apparently this battery and the way the solenoid set up, it would be counter productive,
(-> SOLENOID & Deep Cycle battery, I agree with him, so does Redarc CEO)
and given that Deep Cycle Batteries generally have a 6 month warranty, an expensive way to go
(-> NOT true, mine had 12 months from memory, is almost 5 yo so is now well outa warranty)
He has assured me that this is not a cranking battery, but an "Hybrid" similar to the one ARB use - Excide Extreme.
(yes, "SIMILAR" a 700 CCA STARTER battery, and they both are black colour)
Apparently, my duall battery sytem links the two batteries together, rather than isolating the cranking battery altogether, then if the main battery draws down too far it gets isolated then before it gets below cranking capacity..
(is he totally confusing you?)
So.. in summary.. It appears my battery is Cactus and have ben advised to get it replaced under Warranty. 18 months warranty for Century Batteries - pretty good I thought, Thanks for the advice guys..(end quote)

Get ADVICE from a 'competent' Auto Electrician, because you have a battery CHARGING problem, not a battery 'choice' problem!

AnswerID: 131982