Trip Report Simpson Desert

Submitted: Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:14
ThreadID: 27431 Views:4394 Replies:9 FollowUps:18
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Hi All,

Firstly I would like to suggest that as a first time crossing we learnt something. The crossing is best done West East if you have a trailer, the slopes are steeper the other way. Travel with others, even if it is just one other. Take the Rig Rd and don’t feel rushed – allow 5 days. Take along plenty of recovery gear we used 5 straps and a long handle shovel. We still had in reserve a winch and an air jack. And love flies because they’ll love you.

We arrive at Mt Dare late afternoon and fuel up before pitching camp. Dave, God bless him, lectures us on the perils of taking trailers into the desert and shows us one that he had retrieved today. We join him and 2 other couples in the pub that evening to exchange yarns and don’t leave till 9 – closing time. The other couple incidentally arrived after dark and had travelled along the Old South Road from Chamber Pillar (they also diverted to see Lamberts centre) but this gave us feeling of having made a good choice of roads even though the Stuart was about 150 K longer.

Our plan was to take the Rig Rd stopping at Dalhousie Springs, which was a nice place with good facilities and a great place for a swim, and Purnie Bore not as nice but well worth a stop. Deciding to camp off the Rig Rd and up close to a dune for protection from the winds, it was already quite windy. We watch the sunset and had dinner away from the flies – only to be assaulted by the nighttime bugs that were not well educated. They had had no understanding that our yellow lights were designed to keep them away. Later in the night the winds increased to something like 40 knots we had to get up and further secure the tent but it remained uncomfortable with lots of noise and slapping canvas – just as well I have a hearing problem which allowed me to sleep through it all. Even the rocking trailer I imagined was just like sleeping in a moving car to put my mind at ease.

Well one of us had a good night sleep – me, the others looked worse for wear. After some breakfast we left at 7 and my buddy promptly managed to get bogged on one of our first hills – this was the start of a routine that would be replayed at least half a dozen times. He would take his best run up and we would pull him over the rest of the way. What teamwork, everyone had a job, the straps were out neatly shackled together (as many as 5 straps) a gentle pull to the top and everyone rolled up the straps.

Continuing along the Rig rd we turn off at the knolls track, deciding that we would give this a shot. At this stage we had not seen a soul but channel 10 comes alive and we know others are nearby and a little further we spot them at the lone gum tree. They had camped there for the night and had fared no better with the howling winds. Some pleasantries and they were off to do the WAA track leaving us to ponder the origin of the gum. We continue along the Knolls a track that seemed to have little use in the first bit but now look well travelled and we follow this to the French Line stopping at the knolls for a break. Interesting, these knolls are huge outcrops of gypsum and the track is bouncy. We end up camping about 15K west of Poeples Corner in between two closer dunes and some taller trees. There was nothing like the wind of the night before – in fact it was quite still. We even have a campfire, one of only 2 during the whole trip. Glorious evening, had a shower, dinner and then watched the stars – doesn’t get much better than that.

Well it had to happen, barely on the road again and I got bogged over the top of one of the first hills. This was treacherous sand, very powdery and even though I had 18 lbs in the tyres got bogged to the floor pan on a downhill slope – just couldn’t believe it! Well luck had served us well this far and we got out to assess the situation – we were in front and my buddy was behind us. We start digging the sand away from under the car and they decided to look for an alternate route around (there seemed to be one leading between the dunes). We were pleasantly surprised to find that they had made it around, he had followed the track for quite some distance and eventually he could cross with no dune at all. A gentle pull and we were out, certainly a very good reason to travel with others I reckon.

Arriving at Peoples Corner about 9-30 we stopped for photos and coffee, it was interesting as 3 of us stood in separate states at the same time. Signed the visitor book and note the Exploreoz sticker. We head for the K1 track and Birdsville over what seems an endless line up of sand hills and saltpans. About half way along we run into another party travelling west, they plan to turn around at Peoples Corner and return to Birdsville. They asked about the boats told them that we were looking for the inland sea – he looked confused. The scenery changes as we got closer to Birdsville to something that looks less like desert but still very dry. Big red looms and we drive up and walk to the top – no doubt about it this is the biggest sand hill so we decide that with the trailers we would not attempt a drive up. A couple of people were driving across and the folk we met at the lone gum pulled up as we were leaving.

The bypass road probably has the second biggest sand hill that we had seen. It took some effort to get over the top – low second and about 5000 revs but we made it on our second attempt. There was a second hill just over the top, which got me on the first pass. Pulled my buddy over for the last time, a rather moving experience for him as the hill was not straight and the angle meant I was pulling off the main track. Got a glimpse that things weren’t altogether when my trailer started ploughing sand and the towrope started cutting into the hill. From his perspective he was looking at a sudden drop to which I continued to pull him. All’s well that ends well and we completed the Simpson crossing in 3 days and 2 nights.

Kind regards
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Reply By: gramps - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:23

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:23
Seems like you guys had a great time. Plenty of recovery practice :) Glad the breeze died down a bit so you could enjoy a campfire or two under those incredible starry skies. Love it out there.
AnswerID: 135545

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:29

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:29
Thanks Gramps, I think anything over 20 knots ceases to be a breeze. We still had plenty of gear left in our recovery kit and we also had plenty of time. It also helps if your on the tail end of a 3 month trip as the stress levels are non existent - everything seemed like no hassle.

Kind regards
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FollowupID: 389465

Follow Up By: gramps - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:41

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:41
LOL ..a rather stiff breeze. Good point re taking your time and lessen the stress levels. Much safer and more enjoyable. As for the flies and inconsiderate night bities, absolute PITA. I tried walking around with one of those veil thingies for a while. They are definitely not comfortable with a beard. Ended up without it and just kept swatting and cussing !!! I think they actually thrive on the so called insect repellant. Probably like the yellow lights, nobody told the bugs they were'nt supposed to like them :)
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Reply By: Des Lexic - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:47

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 10:47
Glad you had a great time through the desert. I have enjoyed reading both of your reports.
You could have let your tyre pressures down a little further to 15psi which would have made it a little easier. Did you let the tyre pressure down on the trailer too. You need to if you hadn't.
I need to send you to the naughty corner as you have committed a cardinal sin when doing a recovery. NEVER NEVER NEVER join snatch straps together with a shackle. If a strap breaks, the shackle is a deadly missile and anyone nearby could end up dead or very seriously injured. Getting the flying doctor into the Simpson is near impossible.
Can I suggest you undetake some driver training either through a club or a driver trainer provider. Even if you have had years of experience, you will be surprised at what you will learn.
I'm off my soap box now.
Cheers
Desmond
AnswerID: 135549

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:03

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:03
Hi Des and thanks,

I was aware I had a liitle left (certainly in the front) but the truck was heavy but have let down tyres below 18lbs. Your right though.

I would never consider doing a snatch with shackles joining straps as I have actually seen the consequences of one of these rubber bands breaking with something attached. I assure you it was but a very slow a very soft pull. Your point is taken.

Am absolutely sure that I could learn something and that most of us could. Read the story about Keith Adams while I was away and I reckon that given the differences in our vehicles I should be able to go anywhere if it wasn't for my lack of skill or desire to break the truck (maybe that can be boiled down to a difference of confidence). As a consequence I try not to get myself into situations that I think I can't handle.

Have been doing this for a while but would do a course if I could find the time.

Kind regards
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FollowupID: 389472

Reply By: Crackles - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:00

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:00
Beatit, did you end up dropping your tyres down to 15 psi or less once you got bogged initially. We found that by reducing down just that little more esspecially with a heavily laden camper that it becomes so much easier. I suspect after the high winds the sand would have been pretty soft.
Just out of interest what sort of weight was your Patrol & camper & what damage caused the broken down trailer at Mt Dare? Unlike many on this site who are "anti camper trailer in the Simpson" I'm interested in what makes a succesfull crossing & why others breakdown. Sounds like you had a great trip & have now caught the Simpson bug & will be back soon............
Cheers Craig...........
AnswerID: 135553

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:19

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:19
G'day Craig,

Didn't get to 15Lbs. I was dropping the tyre pressure as we were travelling along and the rear looked pretty bagged out. I have never got stuck over the top of a hill before and this got me by total surprise. Absolutely would have got out but it was a novel experience to be bogged on a downward slope. Your right about the winds and the sand the day after the blow we could not see any tracks including our own from the night before almost like no one had been there for ages.

We are close to 5 tonne overall and it helps to have a little power to get over some of the hills. The remains of the trailer that Dave showed me was an "A" frame that was cut off and replaced. It looked like 40 Mil box and probably 2.5 mil thick hardly what one would call off road strength and if I recall correctly it had 14" wheels.

There is no doubt it would be easier without a trailer but I believe that the trailer, if reasonably well set up, does not create an impossible mission.

Kind regards
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FollowupID: 389473

Follow Up By: Crackles - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:40

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 11:40
It's always difficult when loaded (overloaded) for a 3 month trip with a boat etc to drive through sand as the weight is the biggest killer. With a car weighing around 3.5 tonne it certainly is hard to let your tyres down much more as they are buldging so much already & risk popping them off the rim.
At Mt Dare it sounds like it was a case of another unsuitable trailer breaking down giving all others a bad name.
I like how you mention "after the blow we could not see any tracks including our own from the night before almost like no one had been there for ages" Pretty much debunks the theory that camper trailers cause ongoing damage to the dunes ;-))
Cheers Craig............
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FollowupID: 389477

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 12:02

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 12:02
G'day Craig,
I wondered what is suitable and this is not as easy as it sounds but clearly some are unsuitable, its on the margin that it is most difficult.

Since doing this trip I'm of the opinion that the environmental issues are a bit of a furfy. I pondered this issue while I was out there as it was clearly the basis of most of the objections I got to us doing this crossing. I also came to realise that usage of this desert would only be a tiny fraction of 1% and that the concern seems totally without basis. Also, I would say that I found this place to be one of the cleanest – there is very little evidence of human interaction.

In reality the feral animals do more damage, there was more evidence of camels then people. That is if you don't include where people just had to do donuts on the salt pans.

Kind regards
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FollowupID: 389480

Follow Up By: gramps - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 12:18

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 12:18
Careful guys! You'll attract the attention of the "dune Police" :))))
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FollowupID: 389482

Follow Up By: Crackles - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 12:45

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 12:45
LOL :-)))
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Reply By: Boo - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 13:29

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 13:29
Hi Beatit,

Was very interesting to read how your trip went, we are planning a trip across the desert next year also with a Patrol and CT, as its our first time across would be interested to hear what sort of fuel economy you got mainly Mt Dare to Birdsville stretch as this appears to be the longest point between fuel fill ups. Do you have any idea how much fuel you used with all the sand dunes etc??

Thanks

Kerrie
AnswerID: 135577

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 13:48

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 13:48
G'day Kerrie,

I have 185 ltrs in the Nissan (Total of the 2 tanks) took an addtional 4 jerries - so left Mt Dare with 265 ltrs. Topped up the tank with 3 jerries on the first night. Topped up the tanks in Birdsville with 108.05 ltrs and had 1 full jerry. So allowing for some give and take in the jerries reckon I used 170 ltrs for a total of 599 K or 28 ltrs/100K. Nice to know we had plenty and that our consumption was slightly better than expected.

Kind regards
0
FollowupID: 389495

Follow Up By: Boo - Saturday, Oct 22, 2005 at 11:48

Saturday, Oct 22, 2005 at 11:48
H Beatit,

Thanks for the information, gives us a bit more info to help us decide how much extra we need, whilst your Patrol I think from memory is a 4.8lt ours is a 4.2lt plus we have a 90lt petrol tank and a 90lt gas tank. We've only recently purchased the CT and so far have only done one week long trip away so still trying to get an idea of fuel economy towing it, plus not having ever travelled sand dunes with it, makes it a bit more difficult to work out how much additional fuel it might use. Hopefully we will do a few more trips in the coming months to at least gauge the economy on a more normal type trip and then we will have to just work on a worst case scenario plus some for the extra.

I think the key to doing this type of trip without any major dramas, seems to be making sure your vehicle & CT are well prepared.

Thanks for the info,

Kerrie
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FollowupID: 389617

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 09:31

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 09:31
G'day Kerrie,

Mine is a 4.8 auto. Never went gas because it's hard (read impossible) to get in all those out of the way places. We are (relatively) close to Fraser Is and we did a couple of trips up there fully loaded (what a pain when you don't need the stuff - that is tinnie as well) just to work out our worse case fuel consumption. We ended up getting 3.2 K/Ltr which became our planning guide and ended up doing a bit better than that (3.5 accross the SD).

The trick is to be prepared I reckon but as has been pointed out this is at a price of weight. BTW your fuel tank isn't overly large and you will be carrying a lot of jerries. I would be pretty uncomfortable calculating my consumption so close as not to allow for contingencies. Completing the trip with 90 litres to spare was probably just about right for me.

Kind regards
0
FollowupID: 389796

Follow Up By: Boo - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 10:03

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 10:03
Hi Beatit,

Our Patrol was already converted to dual fuel when we bought it, and its been a great saving in recent times with the fuel prices going up. We find that we get exactly the same economy on both petrol as gas, so whilst the petrol tank is only 90 litres, the 90 litres of gas which we plan on having full when we start the actual desert crossing will still give us 180lt in the tanks, then we just need to carry sufficient jerries to get us to Birdsville to refuel.

We're planning another couple of trips in the coming months over varying terrain so that we can get a better idea of economy with the CT. Also over the next few trips we plan on scaling down the gear we carry, not take the 'just in case' type items that we have been carrying because we've had the room, because on the desert trip we'll need to carry more recovery gear/spares & tools, not to mention the extra jerries.

We will have been planning this trip for about 12mths by the time we actually leave, so hopefully we will have planned for every eventuality, plus we are travelling with two other vehicles, one of which has done the trip before. So from their experiences and what we have read, we shouldn't have too many problems.
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FollowupID: 389803

Reply By: Member - David 0- Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 19:29

Friday, Oct 21, 2005 at 19:29
Having done most tracks in the Simpson, I have to agree with Dave and with Ruth from Birdsville- don't take a trailer. It isn't worth it, It ruins your fun and just about everyone who follows you. Most people never get a chance to drive over their own tracks, as somone following would do. Do it once and you will realise what it is all about.

Anyhow, glad you had a great trip.

We found the Simpson an absolute breeze and a fantasti place

Cheers
David O
AnswerID: 135642

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 08:44

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 08:44
Hi David,

Thanks. Simply though my dear wife would not have gone without the trailer and I would not have seen and enjoyed the place - so it was worth taking. I did have to reverse a coup,le of times and know what you mean about the tracks but equally I noticed considerable ruts and scallops on the eastern slopes - left by untrailered vehicles going the other way.

Apart from one ugly bogging (already mentioned) our MO is to reverse down the hill and make adjustment rather than flog the car and gouge the slope because it creates huge holes that affect your next run up.

From my experience of driving on beach tracks it is plain obvious to see where people have driven with over inflated tyres. Reckon this does the real damage.

Kind regards
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FollowupID: 389789

Follow Up By: Member - David 0- Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 08:50

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 08:50
Fair enough.

I agree about tyre pressures. We followed a bunch of people (nice people) who obviously had full pressure in their tyres and it was horrible what they did to the dunes. We later heard them say over the radio "oh we forgot to let our tyres down."

We ran 15 psi and the only time we had to have another go was on Big Red. Auto helps too, but thats a whole different debate :-)

Cheers
David
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FollowupID: 389790

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Oct 22, 2005 at 15:33

Saturday, Oct 22, 2005 at 15:33
Beatit,

Thank you for your honesty in your trip report. Like Des, I did wince a couple of times :-))

Out of interest, I prefer to do most of the Simpson tracks from the Birdsville side - even though its steeper, it tends to be be smoother without as much scalloping on the way up. Also, you've done this trip at the end of the season, and may have had warm weather, which makes the sand softer and a bit more difficult.

And when it comes to trailers, I'm just back from 3 weeks in WA, and reckon we saw over 20 dead trailers left out in the deserts. Pretty handy if you're looking for a bit of steel to fix something though :-))

One of the reasons the Simpson may have looked OK is because there are people around actively cleaning up the mess. We always come out with more rubbish than we take in. Also I believe that Friends groups do a yearly cleanup.

Cheers
Phil
AnswerID: 135743

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 08:55

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 08:55
Thanks, Yeah seriously thought about leaving out the bit about the straps because I'm no fan of joining these things that way - but we took care and I wanted to let people know about the distances that are involved in SD recoveries.

The scalloping is a PITA for following traffick and seriously hinders the ability to have a good run up. Got to tell you though we saw more scalloping on the eastern side. Couldn't understand why this sometimes happens at the very bottom of the hill.

Just can't see how anyone can leave a trailer, mine has $1,000's of gear in it that would also have to be left behind because I would have no room to pack it in the car. You'd have to wonder if these trailer owners were able to take their gear in the car then why take a trailer in the first place?

The cleaners certainly do a great job because I reckon it was spotless.

Kind regards

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FollowupID: 389792

Reply By: Ruth from Birdsville Caravan Park - Sunday, Oct 23, 2005 at 12:35

Sunday, Oct 23, 2005 at 12:35
This is one of the best reports I have seen (or heard) for a while and everyone is to be congratulated on the lack of 'emotion' in the report. Couple of things I'd like to mention :
1. The CT should have been at about 11 psi
2. Had the tyre pressures been correct there should have been no need to snatch or tow anyone
3. The Friends of the Simpson have just been in and cleaned up
4. Don't know who said the Rig Road was easier than the French!!! Used to be a long time ago - but the dunes on the eastern end (particularly after summer winds) are very scary - must bigger than on the French line.
5. For some time we have been talking about the overloading of vehicles - I do realise you were away for 3 months - and I doubt if any vehicle goes out into the Simpson without be overloaded. Think it would be important if every vehicle had to go over a weighbridge - wouldn't that be interesting? (Mine included - you just never know when you might need that 'thinngymajig'.
Good report - good thought. Happy travelling to all. Ruth
AnswerID: 135821

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 09:15

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 09:15
Hi Ruth,

Looked for you when we were in Birdsville but you had left the work to your other half (funny enough had the same experience looking for Karsten). We were hoping to get away from the flies there but as you know they're there as well.

Thanks for the feed back. Will explore dropping the tyre pressure some what more next time. I think you hit the nail on the head though with the load. There is a point where tyres look totally bagged out and I was pretty sure I was there with the rear but I could probably have gone lower with the front and trailer.

I think the friends of the Simpson have done a great job, I was hard pressed finding anything at all. Even old fire places looked remarkably clean and covered.

Everyone kept saying "take the Rig Road" so I guess we never really tried the others, just the tail end of the French which I reckon was OK.

The sand was very soft and powdery also a number of the blows had diversion tracks which we avoided (they may well have been an easier route). We had done a bit of reading on doing this crossing but it would have been great to do a crossing like this with someone that had done it before and knows the tracks. Mind you I was astounded by the cleansing affect of the winds on our first night there was just nothing left of our own tracks - so I guess these tracks can change quite rapidly.
This had left us in some dilema as to which track to take over these blows as there were no visible tyre tracks to provide a guide.

Kind regards
0
FollowupID: 389795

Reply By: Ruth from Birdsville Caravan Park - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 11:34

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 11:34
Sorry I missed you, must have been when I did a quick run to Mt Isa - dislocated my jaw (eating an apple and reading The Australian - told you that print media is bad for you!!) and Karsten was also away (not with me tho).!
AnswerID: 135979

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 12:01

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 12:01
Hi Ruth,

Hope the jaw is better - so much for an apple a day! Liked Birdsville, particularly the pub and the planes. I thought it was in the middle of nowhere until we got to Windorah which actually felt like it was nowhere. Birdsville at least had a nice atmosphere and the banana split at the cafe was tops.

Will be back one day, maybe with a caravan (no - won't be doing the desert with that).

Kind regards
0
FollowupID: 389817

Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 14:40

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 14:40
Beatit,

I have crossed the Simpson a few times now and every crossing is different. The only thing that does change is that there are more flies in the latter part of the season.
Taking your time is the is the best way to cross. On the last crossing we came across a convey that left Dalhousie after lunch and wanted to be in Birdsville in 2 1/2 days. We take 4days 3nights and stay at Dalhousie for lunch and a swim before only going just past Pernie Bore we make camp for our first night. On our second day we met up with the same convey at the Lone Gum Tree and camped near them for there last night near the Knolls. Meet up with them again at Poepple Corner at 11am and they still wanted to do the 170km to Birdsville that day.

We camped near Eyre creek and when we got to Big Red about 10am we all had a good run going over Big Red. This year the sand was very good and a 40kph at the base and 2nd gear high range saw all of us make it on the first attempt. Some even went back down just so the other driver had a go crossing at driving Big Red.
We didn't have any trailers with us so our tyre pressure for the desert was 20/ 25 and 15 all round to drive Big Red. I would have adjusted the pressures if I had found the going too hard. Like I said the desert changes all the time and you have to drive to the conditions.
The other convoy did make it to Birdsville at about 7pm but they didn't try Big Red as there convey leader said it was too hard.

You must have been there about the same time because when I went to see Ruth, she was not there and Ian said that she would be back when the money ran out. Poor man he was working flat out just so Ruth could stay in MT Isa a lot longer.

Only 8 months to go before I am out there again.

Wayne
AnswerID: 136015

Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 15:06

Monday, Oct 24, 2005 at 15:06
G'day Wayne,

Sure right about the flies they were relentless. We had planned for a longer voyage but the flies (mainly) made us push on. We were never in a hurry though and would have taken our planned 5 days if needed. We all have been on trips where there is a pressing timeline and from my experience these trips seem to have the most problems.

The day was gettin a bit long in the tooth when we reached Big Red and neither of us felt like unhooking the trailers so we were content to walk to the top. Watched a couple of guys going back and forth and it seemed easy enough without a trailer.

We were in Birdsville 1 October late afternoon. Managed to set up camp and shower in daylight (just). Had to walk to the pub in the dark.

Kind regards
0
FollowupID: 389837

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