Dirty diesel oil

Where can you buy the product ? I'm in the same boat, black oil in 1 minute after the change.

Is this an add?

Whats the colour of the oil got to do with anything? Its the properties of the oil. Why spend $100 to save what 5 mins of engine running will do? Just my 2 cents worth.

The carbon in the oil accelerates engine wear. Obviously if the oil is clean to start with at least you are free off the old carbon build up. But the best part is you can choose to try it or not as you see fit. It won't make any difference to my motor.

I also have a bypass oil filter but the stuff has still gone black. I'll post again after a couple of thousand k's

Yep CEM is pretty good. I was lucky enough to be given some and it cleaned the GQ's oiler out at 270,000km.

I am also using Flash Lube with every second tankful of diesel and the old bus just purrs along with 305,000km on the clock now.

Here's a different slant on the same problem. I have an old (1976) diesel Landy, which when I took the rocker cover off to check the valve clearence had a heap of sludge inside. I had read about the CEM product and thought, well its got to be a solvent of some sort, so is there anything on the market to replicate it?
Thinking not a lot to lose, I drained the oil and replaced with enough oil to show on the dipstick to which I had added a container of that $2 aerosol degreaser available at el cheapo stores.
Ran the motor at a reasonably high idle for about 45mins. then drained the oil out. It came out a hell of a lot thicker than when it went in. Replaced the oil filter, refilled with 15-40 then took the rocker cover off again. Surprise! - clean as a whistle, no sign of anything except clean metal. This was about a couple of years ago and the oil still stays clean relative to what it was like.
I actually passed this info. on to Willem in a response to a Q. he had (he may have been Williewag then)
Its probably only lateral thinking, but it may also prove what has long been said "there is nothing new under the sun"
the kesh

If the oil is not black you want to start to worry. That is what is supposed to do! The black is the contaminants from the combustion process held in suspension. All you need to worry about is that the oil hasn't lost enough of it's additive "package" to continue to do it's job of lubricating the engine by keeping the wearing components apart by the time you do an oil change. As long as you change the oil at the recommended intervals and use a reputable brand of the correct grade oil, any further additional additives are unecessary and only result in higher running costs. I would be worried that a product that has the detergent ability of the one you mention could do other long term damage to items such as bearing shell overlay material, copper, bronze bushings, aluminium, etc

I too looked into this "amazing" product - as my lux's oil is always black - and asked a mate of mine who is a marine mechanic. - His reply -> not a good idea - sure the engine will be clean afterwards - but to get it clean - all the crap in the engine that has been sitting there dormant - all of a sudden gets sucked through the motor and can do more damage.

I have let mine sit! - If it aint broke - don't fix it.

Interestingly - one of the "rave reviews" of the product at the time was that the mechanic who rebuilt the motor shortly after someone used the CEM product - couldn't believe how clean the engine was for its age. - My thoughts at the time were -hmmm - why did the engine need a rebuild - perhaps it wouldn't have needed a rebuild at all if they hadn't used the product in the first place!

-myfourby

I am a firm believer that this forum should not be used as a selling tool. However, as supplier of the Flushing Oil Concentrate, I do need to correct some mis-information which could damage our reputation. I will also attempt to clarify the sludge/soot isue.
1. Our product is based on a purpose built, specific detergent in a lube oil carrier. It has no materials compatability problems with seals, O-rings, bearing materials or other. Importantly, it is not, as suggested, a solvent or degreaser, for some very good reasons...seal and O-ring damage could result; loss of oil viscosity could cause excessive wear; a crankcase explosion could occur.
2. Black filthy oil is NOT OK. Pre-combustion 4x4 diesels are high soot producers, compared to direct injection types. Black oil becomes a problem when it stains your hands. Clearly it can't keep the engine clean, can it? So sludge and piston ring fouling follow at some stage. It is a serious problem that can cause low (or excessive) oil pressure; lubrication starvation; the oil can become so thickened that it solidifies in the sump; chronic over-heating commonly results. (Few people realize that one of the oil's 5 duties is to provide sufficient cooling flow.)The sludge problem costs $millions a year, but it is avoidable.
3. Too clean? OLDER PETROL engines should not use the Flush, since in many of them, carbon pack out around worn rings can compensate for excessive wear. Many people identify with this. Diesels engines, however, specify a high detergent oil to control piston ring deposits. If fouling occurs compression drops as the rings progressively jam. Fortunately in most cases, wear is still within servicable limits. The symptoms are similar to a worn engine, and many are rebuilt at this stage.
4. Cause a rebuild? Many customers use our Flush as a last resort to postpone a rebuild, and while our success rate is above 90%, clearly if sludge is so severe that oil flow is inadequate, engine damage may have already resulted, before our product is used. We have engines running well many years after postponing a rebuild. We have some that are rebuilt after a flush. And we have some that failed just before doing a flush. We are dealing with used (mainly problem) engines. Any suggestion of our Flush causing a rebuild is quite reckless.

I hope this has been useful background information on the subject, and satisfactorally corrects the mis-information in some of the threads.

Sorry to have opened a can of worms. All I wanted to do was share my experience with the whole forum. I will still post the results after 2k Kms for those who have an open mind.

Kesh
The point of my response, as supplier of the Flushing Oil Concentrate was to correct some inaccurate comment and provide background information to the problem under discussion. If you would rather not hear supplier comment, then blame those who provide inaccurate or mischiefous comment. Like anyone who has built a business over 21 years, we have a solid ethical base, and take offence at suggestions otherwise.
To address your other comments, our Flush can remove bore glaze, although it is not our first choice in most cases. It is not an abrasive (old school remedy). Bore glaze is a condition where carbon deposits fill up the cross hatch grooves on the bore, to produce a glassy smooth finish. The glaze can be safely removed, without abrasives, to re-expose the intact cross hatch. Contrast this to bore polish, which is a wear condition caused by the abrasive action of carbon build up on piston top lands. It can be prevented, but not corrected by other than a rebuild.
I made the point that diesel performance drops off markedly when piston ring fouling occurs. With typical 4x4 diesels that usually occurs before wear becomes critical.
In practice, many of our customers approach us as a last ditch option to an $8000 odd rebuild. Historically, our success rate is above 90%, which reinforces my last statement.
Perhaps it was remiss of me not to include my details earlier from the point of credibility, but there may be those who would object to that as advertising. For your interest I supply them below.
Brid Walker (General Manager)
COST EFFECTIVE MAINTENANCE
60 Formation St WACOL QLD 4076
Ph (07) 3271 4138