Thursday, Dec 01, 2005 at 22:40
Like others, I've found the bull bag good in some circumstances - e.g. sand, where one can easily move a bit of material so as to locate them properly.
But it can be tough to hold the hose spout onto the exhaust pipe at high bag pressures (when near to full inflation).
As Phil G mentions on his response, the walls also need to be 'straight' before inflation so that they lift vertically, Vs both vertically & a little horizontally, which often results in a sideways slip. A sideways slip may help with unbogging, but not commonly. The sideways effect is often just a mildly frustrating waste of time & energy.
A major drawback to using a highlift jack is a lack of purchase points on modern 4 x 4 's. HLJ's and curves are not comaptable!
After fixing too many flats in 2004 & 2005, it became apparent that the simplicity & speed of the highlift was very hard to beat. A quality 8 t hydraulic bottle jack, or a bullbag, were my jacking devices for the last few years. Having laid idle for about 10 years, I have now reverted to the highlift on my GU.
So, I have custom built jacking points, front & rear. The front jacking points are welded onto the front of the bull bar, one each side, adjacent to the rubber overriders.The rear jacking point is incorporated into the tongue in the towbar slot. This tongue is a purpose built solid slab of steel, machined to accomodate a rated shackle. It is both the recovery point, and due to a machined groove on the underside, a locator for the highlift .
I carry the highlift on a specaiily fabricated bracket on the roofrack, at the rear of the rack, over the back doors, as it were. I thought of mounting the HLJ on the spare, similar to the kaymar spare wheel bracket concept. For the extra 2 or 3 feet of height & what that will do to centre of gravity, Vs bouncing that weight on those door hinges, I went up.
I still carry the bottle jack, though, but not the bull bag.
As far as breaking the beads go, ask Phil for his invention.
Cheers
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