new lesson for old bloke

Submitted: Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 09:44
ThreadID: 32784 Views:12732 Replies:10 FollowUps:29
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At 55 yrs old, it takes a bit to surpise me.
I've owned diesel 4wds for over 20 years, and done most of the services myself.
Like most , over that time I have looked into oil/fuel additives, and end up either confused or sceptical.
Well - I have been made to learn one new trick.
(And I am semi retired, do not sell anything, and have no stake in any auto products or company ...blah blah blah...).
My current vehicle is a Nissan Patrol 4.2 TD - 1999
I bought it 3rd hand. It now has 160,000klms on the clock.
Being a pre-combustion engine their design ensures they produce carbon, and hence black oil (as some carbon bypasses the rings).
Normally after an oil change, the new oil is black within about 30 seconds.
I have just done an oil change, and after 320 klms, it is as clean as it was when I poured it in. That 320 klms includes some (limited) 4wd work, plus highway speeds at 110 klms/hr with the air con on. I keep pulling the dip stick and showing it to friends, because it damn well amazes me.
And this is EXACTLY the same brand/product of oil, and same brand/model of oil filter. Apples for apples. (for the record Penrite HPR Diesel 15; Ryco Z503).
NEVER has that happened before. Petrol engines yes - Diesels NEVER, and particularly pre-combustion diesels.
OK - so cut to the chase. There are 2 'additives' - (that dirty word)
1. an oil flush ; 2. a diesel fuel additive - FTC decarbonizer.
First I ran some of the fuel additive.
About 24 hours later (say about 30 klms) I drained the old oil. Added new oil. Then added CEM flush. (CEM is a sponsor on Exploroz by the way).
Drove it for 30 minutes. Drained the oil. Added new oil and new filters.
Thats it.
Yes it means I paid for an extra 10Ltrs oil - 2 oil changes, but that ensures the flush is cleaning the engine rather than the carbon load in the old oil).
I keep pulling the dip stick out expecting it to show black oil - but it is clean.
Now I fully expect it to turn black sometime.
But 320 klms of my heavy foot is just damn amazing.
Theory is the flush cleans the cross hatch in the bore, and the carbon around the piston ring grooves freeing up the rings. The decarbonizer helps the fuel burn more fully - hence CO2 rather than carbon particles.
I am not a qualified mechanic, but 20 years of diesels this is the first time I have seen clean engine oil on the dip stick.
Well - there you have it. Will try and give a follow-up every 1000 klms.
(For the record, I did meet the owner of CEM about 22 years ago it turns out.
Havn't seen or spoken to him since).
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Reply By: Member - Nutter (QLD) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 10:51

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 10:51
Hi Keith , that is amazing, I like yourself have had various diesel vehicles for many years, and have had the same black oil within miniutes of a filter & oil change.We have a Patrol 4.2 TD, 2003 model done 67,000 km, and a Rocky 2.8 TD, done 140,000 km. My questions are.
1. How often is it recommended this process be done, every so many kms or when oil starts to get black quickly.
2. Do you run the fuel additive all the time or again every so many kms.
3. Have you noticed any improvment in fuel economy
4. What sort of cost for each one.
I have seen this product advertised, but like you over the years you start to get a little wary.However this certainly seems worthy.
AnswerID: 166409

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:21

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:21
Hi Guy - I will read from the bottle, and info sheet. So most of this info is probably on the net.
1. The 'big flush' is only done once. After that, you add it to the old oil, just before you drop it out.
2. All the time. This stuff is suposed to keep the upper cyl clean.
But this one has got me. It works at 800:1. So I rang the guy and said - that sounds way too diluted to be of any use at all.
He replied it was a catylist and in mining (after the initial decoke) use it more diluted.
Don't know - don't care - provided the damn oil is clean.
3. Fuel econ - I only do econ figures on a big run, as that is the only time I start with a full tank, know the clicks, then refill the tank - so cannot comment.
Fuel econ is a bit variable as it depends on road conditions and how I drive at the time. If my stress levels are up, the truck tends to get driven an bit hard on the day.
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Reply By: Des Lexic - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 11:33

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 11:33
G'day Kieth, please don't take me the wrong way but just a couple of comments.
When you run the CEM additive, is 30 minutes running time enough to remove accumilated build up of carbon. Secondly, if you had a brand new motor, the oil would not turn black for some time as it would not have accumilated the build up in its early life. Never having had a new diesel motor, how long does it take for the build up to occur to start turning the oil black.
What frequency do you need to do the double oil change
I have had experience with good quality injector cleaner and I did notice improved economy and performance for about 5000 k's. Don't know how long the benefit lasted but didn't take much notice of it after that.
AnswerID: 166415

Follow Up By: TerraFirma - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 12:06

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 12:06
His motor is hardly brand new at 160,000kms so his comments re the carbon ring true.
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Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:27

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:27
Hi Des - I just gave the info exactly as it happened. I dropped the oil; added new plus flush and drove aprox 14 Klms (about 25 minutes).
No doubt the newer direct injection diesels run cleaner. Cannot comment on them.
If you can afford a new one, you probably don't care too much about keeping the oil clean. ( Longevity is not an issue.)
Only one double oil change.
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Reply By: Footloose - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 12:34

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 12:34
Keith, I also would love to see clean oil for a while, however before I shell out I would like to pose some questions if I may.
Why did you use these products in the first place ie what benefits were you after ?
Are there any expected side effects after a while ?
And like others ask, how often is this procedure necessary ?
AnswerID: 166427

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:42

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:42
Hi Footloose.
Several reasons.
1. I noticed the moderator on this site gave it a go.
I am not a sheep (eg do not just follow the mob), but when people in that position take the effort to try a product, then it warrants further attention.
2. My BJ42 Toyoto lasted 15 years. This one will probably be my last, and one reason why I chose the old technology Patrol 4.2.
So I have kept a lookout for both products and mainanence methods/issues that could keep it healthy for the long haul. (some bastard will probably end up stealing it - but I never wash it - hoping that will deter them).
Side effects : My logic says if the contaminant load is reduced, the oil has to perform better. Given that oil is the life blood of these diesel engines, it has to be one of the major steps I can take to keep the engine healthy.
My mechanic said that they stopped using one flush in some turbos, as that flush didn't dissolve the carbon but it came avay in small flakes. The flakes then migrated to the turbo and blocked the oil lines = blown turbo. If I recall correctly, his comments related to older vehicles.
How often - as above - major flush once only (= half the bottle). After that, small amounts to the old oil before you drop it.
FollowupID: 421395

Reply By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 13:59

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 13:59
OK I call BS advert. I have drive plenty of brand spanking new 4bys which obviosly must be cleaner internally than one that has been decarbonised and THEY STILL have dark/black oil
AnswerID: 166435

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 14:22

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 14:22
Mine doesn't anymore! :-)

But I didn't use any whiz bang crap in my engine, I just put 200L of B100 (straight biodiesel) through the engine over a month, did my scheudled oil change and now after another near on 1000k's the oil is ony JUST starting to dis colour.

Bugger CEM, just get some biodeisel, I getter better fuel economy and more power now too and it costs me less than regular diesel, the only downside is I have to pump it out of the 44 myself. Oh well, who cares! ;-)

But yeah, I've never had a diesel from new, but all my diesels have always been 30 seconds to black before I changed over.
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Follow Up By: cokeaddict - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:40

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:40
Im with you Geff,
I was on my 3rd tank od 100 boidiesel, everything worked better. Unfortunately now here in sydney, the only supplier of biodiesel from a bouser no longer sells it. So i am back onto the toxic stuff until we find another supplier. As soon as one becomes available, I am definately back on 100 biodiesel. My GQ never ran soooo good.
P.S. Its not worth me getting a 44, its just too much mucking around here and time wont allow me to organise it. But half your luck mate if its easy for ya to do it that way.
FollowupID: 421366

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:50

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:50
Yeah well the guy delivers it and whacks it in my garage for me with his dinky little crane, I just syhpon it into jerrys and fill the car up that way. I don't reckon it'd take me much longer than drving down to the servo, waiting for all the MORONS who use unleaded who don't seem to understand that there is only ONE diesel bowser when they look at you with dumb looks while you wait behind them, cue up and wait for everyone in front of you to ass fart around with there stupid little dockets and fly by cards, then swipe your card, wait for the operator to pull their finger out, walk back to the car, wait for the IDIOT who pulled up in front of you to go and then drive home. :-)
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Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:58

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:58
Davo - I half expected some one to make a comment like that.
Even hesitated at posting because of it, but damn it all, it we stop posting actual experience for fear of arguments we end up only discussing the weather.
What I posted is step by step what happened.
No - I do not have the pleasure of driving new vehicles, so my 99 Patrol is all I can talk about. My previous BJ42 Tojo was also 2nd hand when I bought it and it lasted me 15 years. In the end it put a piston throught the side of the block. Worn camshaft bush let the shaft push the valve at an angle - the valve finally stuck and met the piston. Not a happy reunion.
So -I look for ways to help the engine last longer. Do you have a problem with that ?
On the subject of Bidiesel - the info on the internet certainly makes it look an impressive product. Can anyone tell me where I could buy it in Brisbane?.
Having done a bit of research on it, I would like to try it, if there is a reliable local supplier (reliable both to quality and quantity).
Only have one concern - water destroys diesels and I notice they have to 'wash' the biodiesel. What is the chance of a hole in the piston from water (even with regular filter changes)?.
FollowupID: 421398

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 07:52

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 07:52
keith if this was a straight post then I apolagise. However this has not been the first disturbingly simular thinly disguised advert for CEM that has been posted here
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Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:27

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:27
Davoe - thanks for that, I appreciate your follow-up.
No question my post was straight - just an experience I found very (and pleasently) unusual. Have seen (for other products) what you mean by posts being just ads. Cant say I noticed any for this one.
Happy to have you challenge the validity of my post. Keeps the site honest.
(by the way, I made an error re the BJ42 info - it was the rocker shaft bush, not the cam shaft, that wore and caused the rocker to push the valve at an angle.)
FollowupID: 421518

Reply By: TerraFirma - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 15:42

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 15:42
On the topic of Bio Diesel pumping it myself wouldn't be practical so how else can you get it..? Will we see Servo's offering it anytime soon..? Or in reality will Bio Diesel ever become a mainstream solution..?
AnswerID: 166457

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:55

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:55
I tried one of those cordless drill operated pumps, but it was usless. You can by big hand pumps from supercheap or agricultral stores that fit in 44's for about $100.

One guy was talking about pumping compressed air into the drum and pushing the fuel out that way, don't know how successful that would be though...

BP are going to start selling B5 soon (5% biodiesel) but peronally I can't see the point in that.

Gull over here in WA have just started selling B20 at the bowser for 3 cents a litire cheaper. Personally I think that's a bit of a rip off, but gull are a bunch of knob ends anyway, so no suprise there.

Apparently gull doesn't seem to think B100 will be sold by them for (in their words) "a long, long time". So I'll stick to this dudes backyard stuff for now, it's running a treat on it and it's cheap!
FollowupID: 421375

Follow Up By: Muzzgit (WA) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 23:35

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 23:35
Feff. How do you know the stuff you are burning isn't creating toxic gases?

Just cos it's cheap isn't reason enough for me to put it into my car.

If it kills my fuel pump, or worse, who do I take to court?

Why are Gull a bunch of knob ends?
FollowupID: 421488

Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 01:45

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 01:45

If you are interested, Outback Ingenuity (makers of the Tanami Pump) also manufacture a Canning Pump. Cost is about $198 but if you are busting your gut with the manual pump, might be worth a look.

Opposite Lock are distributors for the Tanami Pump and may be able to get one in for you, if you don't want to order over the Internet.

Outback Ingenuity


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FollowupID: 421493

Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 01:48

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 01:48

Just noticed Opposite Lock are only agents in Adelaide, but check the Retailers on their Website for one nearest you.

I'm diagonally parked in a parallel Universe!

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FollowupID: 421494

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 09:32

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 09:32
"How do you know the stuff you are burning isn't creating toxic gases?"

Ok. You obviously havn't done any research whatsoever on Biodiesel. That's ok, that's what this forum is here for.

Mthyl Ester (biodeisel) is typically made from recycled vegitable oil.
It produces:
no sulphates at all unlike normal diesel,
67% less Total unburned hydrocarbons,
48% less carbon monoxide
47% less particle matter
with only an increase of 10% Nox
In also produces 80% less Olycyclic Aromatic Hyfrocarbons
90% less nitrated PAH's
and the ozone damaging potential is less than 50% of regular diesel.

Sulphar emission are basically eliminated ith B100 and the particle matter has been reduced considerably, particle matter emmisions are shown to be the largest health hazard from burning regular petro diesel.

So excuse me if I am burning a fuel that is:
A - Recycled
B - Renewable
C - Cleaner burning that any other form of Internal Combustion engine fuel (including LPG).

There has been no evidence in any of the 10's of thousands of vehicles running some form of Biodiesel blen in the world that Biodiesel causes any damaged to fuel pumps in diesel engine, unless they are of an older variety that have rubber seals. If they do, your stuffed anyway because of the introduction of Ultra Low Sulphar Diesel as mandetory in Australia.

If this guys is not filtering the biodiesle down to 5 microns (the australian standard, and by a strange co inky dink the standard specified in the engine manual), oldy enough the standard fuel filter I purchase is guess what.... 5 micron. Wow, how about that. And it has not clogged up yet after 400L so obviously he is filltering it correctly.

Fuff, to the cleaner engine, lower emission, more power, cleaner oil, recycled renewable fuel that is cheap and doesn't come from the major oil companies.

Yeah good one.

Gull, walk into any gull service station and as the attendant what they think of them. You're answer will be there.

My wife and I have both dealt with them extensivly in business and their buesiness ethics and ideas are somewhat questionable IMHO.
FollowupID: 421527

Reply By: kesh - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 17:24

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 17:24
In Feb. '97 I purchased a brand new L/C 1hz. trayback. In Jan.'98 I also purchased a brand new Disco 300tdi. Both have now done around 180,000km.

In the case of the L/C, from around the first 5/6000km. the oil was going black about 800/1000km. after an oil change. At 180000km. now travelled, the Disco oil is still clean enough to see the dipstick through it after 8000km., at which I change both oil and filter and the L/C also still much the same. Neither engine uses any significant amount of oil between changes and both have been on a diet of Mobil 15-40 since new.

So what is the difference there? Obviously simple, an indirect injection engine creates a sootier combustion than a direct injection type. Does it matter? Well, there are plenty of 4.0, 4.2l Toyota and Nissan donks (indirect injection) pulling 5/600000 kms. without major drama and with just normal service programs.
Sure, if that "clean oil" look is what you want whack the treatment in. But what other benefit is there in it? Very little , I suspect
AnswerID: 166482

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:45

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 18:45
Interesting theory, however mine is a DI engine and it's still dirty after 30 seconds at 130k's, that was until I started on BD.
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Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 20:11

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 20:11
Hi Kesh - fair comment. If these engines can do 500/600 without drama why bother. Here is my rationale.
I "have heard" of are a fair number of 4.2 that have 500/600 on the clock.
What percentage of the total production do these make up?
Men are keen to boast of their succeses, but we are less enthusiastic about telling everyone of the failures.
So - what are the chances that my 4.2 will be one that lasts the distance?
Given that oil is the lifeblood of diesels, if I can find something that reduces the contaminants in the oil, and does it convincingly - then I will shell out some $.
FollowupID: 421405

Follow Up By: kesh - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:24

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:24
Keith, last year I drove the vehicles of a mate to another site whilst he shifted the earth movers.
The L/C 1hz trayback had over 700,000km. and the 4.2 Turbo Nissan trayback 460,000km. Both had been well looked after service wise and both running well but the Nissan had a very noisy 2nd. gear. Both do their share of work including pulling a 2500l trailer fuel tank around the countryside.
The Toyo. had run over 300,000km. on "crude oil" with only the wax skimmed off as pumped straight out of oil wells. An excavator and dozer run on this too, and the only requirement seems to be more frequent fuel filter changes. I ran my Toyo on this fuel also with no noticable difference in performance but about 15% less economy.
An interesting aside to this is the re introduction of the aneroid compensator on the later 1hz. engine. (Was last used on the H and early 2H engine) This device reduces full load fuel pump output as the elevation increases. It is long recognised that on a N/A diesel, pump output should be recalibrated down 3% for every 1000ft. above sea level to maintain correct fuel air ratio.
In the case of the later 1hz. this all but eliminates the otherwise typical smokey exhaust of both the Toyo and 4.2 N/A Nissan
Am obviously a bit of a sceptic when it comes to additives and such like, but a very strong believer in regular maintenance, particularly air and oil filters. The comment about "flakes of carbon" destroying a turbo seems strange when all the lubricating oil has to pass through the filter first. Some strange things have happened with filters on vehicles serviced by "the local bloke/servo"
Looked after with regular maintenance am sure your 4.2 will last the distance. Diesels thrive on work.
Not sure how a worn camshaft bush caused a valve to get out of alignment in your old Toyo, but those earlier ones did have a nasty habit of pulling tops off pistons around the 200,000 mark.
cheers kesh
FollowupID: 421517

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:51

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:51
Your 'crude oil' experience is interesting. Friends own a sheep station at Erromanga with wells on the property. Have seen them in operation and wondered if it could be used straight.
I made an error re the BJ42 - as above. It was the rocker shaft bush (not cam shaft) that wore. The wear allowed the rocker shaft to move sideways a bit. This let the rocker (at that end) push at an angle, hence the valve wore the valve guide and eventually was at a great enough angle for the valve to jam.
This happened even with very regular maintenance, and care.
I can look at it philosophically in hindsight, and say it did a good job at 300K+.
But I still had to pay for an engine rebuild - $$$.
I have difficulty coming to terms with the current world approach of buy cheap & throw away. Being raised on 'look after what you have got'.
(I havent even bought a $20 electric drill yet. Still repaired the old Makita.)
This may help explain my somewhat pedantic approach to maintenance.
FollowupID: 421521

Follow Up By: kesh - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 09:04

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 09:04
Keith, thats the area I am referring to. What is the name of your friends property? We mine opal on the Yeppara field about 90km. NW of Eromanga. (winter only!)
Know a few property owners and nearly all the opal miners.
cheers kesh
FollowupID: 421523

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 17:27

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 17:27
Hi Kesh - Corowa Downs and Bodella. But Bill owns another property further west with the bolder opals. Cannot remember the name of that one.
Hope to get out there again this June with the brother in law (Andrew), with Bills permission.
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Follow Up By: kesh - Tuesday, Apr 18, 2006 at 17:41

Tuesday, Apr 18, 2006 at 17:41
Sorry Keith, I didnt get back to you on that when intended. Bit of work and other things cropped up.
Yep, I know where those properties are, Corowa Downs the first one on the N. side of the road, then Bodalla a bit further N.
Did you get any fishing in the Kyabra waterholes? Can be really good when running at the crossing.
We go in via "Whites Bore" (Quartpot/Harkaway) Can be interesting after a bit of wet, nice and dusty when dry. The main road used to be pretty soggy at times too.
Hope you have an enjoyable trip out there in June
cheers, kesh
FollowupID: 422810

Reply By: Bilbo - Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:08

Tuesday, Apr 11, 2006 at 19:08
Jeff M,

I'm in the market for bio-d. I have made a lot of my own but right now I'm tied up fighting insurance companies over the stolen Landcsruier and trying to get the replacement Chev Nissan ready for the bush. My bio-d manufacturing "plant" is in bits in the shed, so I'm looking to buy some to tide me over.

Does your mate wanna sell some?

As you too are a member on this forum you can email me or PM I believe with the answer if you wish.



AnswerID: 166507

Reply By: Willem - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 06:50

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 06:50
I too put the CEM product through my GQ engine at 270,000km and it removed a lot of sludge and the truck has run sweetly since.

But the oil is still black.

Methinks the oil isn't doing its job if it isn't black

Does it matter?
AnswerID: 166588

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:04

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:04
Ah Willem - you almost have that right!
That GQ of yours with the wing nuts on the bell housing is legend.
They tell me the bare truck weights about 2 ton and your accessories weigh in an extra 2.5 ton.
But that is not the problem.
The problem is that you filter your old oil throught the coffee machine then put it back. No doubt this shows you are into conservation, but it is a big ask of the old GQ to then clean that oil given the way you use the right foot.
I should know - I am not that far behind.
Loved your reply on the Coongie Lakes road. Will see if you are right this June.
FollowupID: 421515

Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:41

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 08:41
It doesn't take much Carbon to turn something black - so a tiny amount of Carbon in the remaining oil could be all that is turning new oil black.

Does it really matter if there is some carbon in your oil -trucks still get many hundreds of thousands of km out of Diesels that have black oil.

Doubling the cost of oil changes may produce some improvement - but do you get much benefit for that big extra cost (with or without additives) ?

AnswerID: 166607

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 17:23

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 17:23
Hi Mike - fair enough comment.
Only 2 points I would make.
1. You only do the double oil once. After that the fuel additive is supposed to make the diesel burn more fully= CO2 rather than carbon particles, so there is much less carbon to get into the oil. My rig has clean oil for the first time, so it strongly suggests the diesel is burning cleaner.
2. While many trucks clock up big klms, many also have expensive repairs.
Surely you are aware of that. All I hope to do is reduce the likelihood of mine needing such repairs. Clean oil is probably the single most important aspect for diesels (hence most religeously change oil and filters every 5000).

I have been through the rebuild with one diesel. Prefer to reduce the likelihood with the present one, if I can. Nothing complicated - simple as that.
FollowupID: 421642

Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 20:20

Wednesday, Apr 12, 2006 at 20:20
Please describe how it lets the diesel burn cleaner.

How would this affect vehicles in Europe ( a diesel car I rented there only needed services at 20k )

Would be likely to agree with previous posts , if your diesel oil isnt getting dirty it isnt doing its job .

Glad you said ths isnt an advert as well , may as well believe that too !

FollowupID: 421694

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 08:15

Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 08:15
Hi Genn - did you read the replies from the Bio-diesel guys?
No additives - the bio-diesel burns cleanly.
If I could find an outlet in Brisbane I'd be using it in a second.
We tend to think that diesel has to burn black.
Well - as the bio-diesel users are saying, 'It aint necessarily so'.

I am getting just a bit annoyed though at having to defend my integrity to my post. Does it mean every time you mention Koni shocks, Coopers Tyres, a 'Gregories' manual'; Oziexplorer maping program we can jump on and say - There goes Glenn D again - he just uses this forum to put his sales pitch in. Yeh we believe you Glenn.

You do doubt have noticed Collyn Rivers has stopped posting.
He got tired of having to defend himself.
Now there is no room for adverts in posts. Fully agreed.
So - how do we identify honest posts, to adds?
One way may be to look back at the persons history on this site, and let the record speak for itself. Just use the search bar!
So Glenn - use the damn thing and find just ONE instance where I have even remotely come close to promoting a product.
You will find I have replied to a fairly wide variety of posts, and tried to give some constructive input. Most recently on wiring (gave the math formuleas and referred the guy to Collyn rivers Site); On storage of vehicles; on fridges; on mapping; on GPS .......
You are a member I notice. Can you understand why honest people would be just a tad put off helping others, when somesome says ' may as well belive that too'.?
Have a good one.......................Keith
FollowupID: 421793

Follow Up By: Steve - Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 10:01

Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 10:01

don't let a couple of site know-alls put you off mate. As you say, we might as well pack it in if we can't post our findings of different products. It's done often enough elswhere on the site.
FollowupID: 421820

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 11:41

Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 11:41
I'm with Steve..........don't let a couple of detractors put you off posting your findings. Most of us are adult enough to be able to see right through any thinly-veiled attempts at back-door advertising; and your post obviously is NOT of that ilk.

I too would love to get into using Bio100, but here in country SA it is a pipe dream.

Just as an aside, I have not changed the oil in my 4.2TD GU for over 25,000klm now, due to having fitted a AMSOIL oil bypass filtration system. The oil is being analysed every 5000klm and is still going strong. However, it still gets black, but the soot content (as advised in the analysis report from Castrol) is very low; I can wipe the dipstick on my fingers and the oil just wipes off with no staining (= no soot).

BTW I have ditched the FITCH as it did nothing to improve my economy; but may have a better effect in other vehicles.


FollowupID: 421839

Reply By: Shaker - Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 09:27

Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 09:27
Keith, following your use of the CEM engine flush, did you notice if you drained out more than the specified sump capacity, & have you noticed any difference in engine temperatures?

CEM do say that generally you will get more oil out as it dislodges heaps of built up sludge, which in turn reduces engine temperatures, because you then put in a full quota of engine oil, which in itself is a coolant.
AnswerID: 166857

Follow Up By: Keith_A (Qld) - Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 09:51

Thursday, Apr 13, 2006 at 09:51
Hi Shaker - no there did not appear to be any increase in the old oil.
It may be that we have used a semi synthetic since I bought it.
This could keep it cleaner - don't know.
As to the temp - without a calibrated temp gauge it is hard to give a specific number, but it certainly looks like the temp needle is just to left of where it normally sits.
It normally sits just left of centre. Not much - but noticeably.
If I had to guess, I would say it now sits just slightly left again. Since I have owned it, my 4.2 has always run like that - temp just below half - almost constantly.
Only time it increased significantly was pulling the campervan up Cunninghams Gap or the Toowoomba range. But clearly it depends on how you drive it. Without the van, it does Cunninghams in 4th gear - no problems. With the van, I am back to 3rd (and use the torque for all its worth rather that be patient with a lower speed.)
Result -the temp climbs.
FollowupID: 421816

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