3 Wheel Drive

Submitted: Thursday, Jul 06, 2006 at 23:26
ThreadID: 35596 Views:3631 Replies:16 FollowUps:23
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We recenty took a trip to Karijini in our 2003 Patrol ST. In preparation for the trip we had a couple of new tyres fitted. About 3000 km later our rear drivers side wheel came off while we were doing about 100 km on the road not too far out from the Nanaturra Roadhouse. All 6 studs had sheared on the wheel. We were lucky, noone hurt and suprisingly little damage.

I suspect the wheel had been overtightened when the new tyre was fitted. I've since heard this may not be that uncommon on Patrols ? Has anyone else had soemthing similar happen ?

Thanks
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Reply By: extfilm - Thursday, Jul 06, 2006 at 23:54

Thursday, Jul 06, 2006 at 23:54
IanN,
Your wheels were obviously put on by the apprentice.......... The only way a wheel will come off is if it has not been fitted correctly........ There is no way it was over tightened. It is more like the guy simply started at one wheel nut and went all the way around tightening them........ As we all know Wheel nuts should be tightened finger tight first then tightened fully on oppisite sides....
AnswerID: 182222

Follow Up By: Peter - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 01:45

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 01:45
Disagree 100%. This is a known fault with Patrols. I have lost the same wheel (drivers side rear 2003 Patrol) with all 6 stud shearing off, and from damage under the vehicle this is the second time it has happened. Been given all the same excuses, too tight, too loose, ill fitting nuts etc etc. In 30 years of driving have only ever lost 1 wheel and I am doing nothing different with this vehicle compared to all my others. There is a fault, Nissan just wont admit it
Peter
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FollowupID: 438597

Follow Up By: Geoff (Newcastle, NSW) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 02:15

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 02:15
"The only way a wheel will come off is if it has not been fitted correctly"
That's true! There are multiple ways of incorrectly fitting a wheel.

"There is no way it was over tightened."
How do you know this?
Overtightening a nut/bolt will cause as much or more damage as under tightening ever will.

"Your wheels were obviously put on by the apprentice" Bloody good chestnut for avoiding responsibility this one!!
Have you ever been an apprentice? A good apprentice will shame a hell of a lot of 20 year alledged tradesmen.

Geoff.
Geoff,

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Follow Up By: extfilm - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 18:32

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 18:32
As a matter of fact I was an apprentice mechanic once and I do agree with you that a good apprentice can shame alot of tradesmen but it is incredibly hard to find these guys........ And when you do you hang on to them.......
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FollowupID: 438723

Reply By: Geoff (Newcastle, NSW) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:17

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:17
Hello Ian,
There are the odd report or two on here supporting what you ask.
Maybe a search of the archives will turn up the information you require.
I'm not convinced the problem of over tightening and damaging studs and nuts is restricted to Patrols. Really, that sort of damage can be done to any bolt by an enthusiastic knuckle dragger.

Geoff.
Geoff,

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AnswerID: 182228

Follow Up By: IanN - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:32

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:32
Thanks for the replies.

A few people we've spoken to have wondered if the tyre place had used a rattle gun rather than do the wheel up by hand ? We found the wheel after it overtook us and one of the holes had elongated into a sort of figure of 8. I'm guessing it was the last one to go. It was a strange experience !

Ian
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FollowupID: 438587

Reply By: Bilbo - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:39

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:39
Rattle guns should be banned in tyre fitting outlets. I emphatically insist to my tyre guy - DO NOT, repeat, DO NOT USE A RATTLE GUN ON MY WHEELS.

I've had too many where I've been unable to get the wheelnuts undone after they've been put on with a rattler. Not 'cos they were tight but 'cosy they were crossed or stretched too the point of thread distortion.

These idiots should try getting a wheel off in the bush when they've been damaged by rattle guns. The last one took me 2 hours for one wheel nut. It was either that or really go for it and just snap the stud off.

Bilbo
AnswerID: 182229

Follow Up By: Sand Man (SA) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 01:19

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 01:19
Can't agree with you Bilbo,

I watched while the boys at my local Bridgestone dealership fitted a couple of new tires.

When one considers how many wheels removed and refitted these guys do in a day, a rattle gun makes good sense, provided it is used correctly.
They used the rattle gun, first to undo the wheelnuts, then initially to put them back on. BUT, they finished off with a torque wrench.

I would guess more and more tire outlets would be using the same practise to maintain their customer base. No one is going to go back to a shop that has incorrectly replaced wheel nuts, either by overtightening, or by not doing them up tight enough.

The manual method of final tightening ensures this process.
Using a torque wrench just improves the accuracy of correct fit.
Bill


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FollowupID: 438594

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 08:47

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 08:47
Yep agree with you Bilbo, bob jane stuffed my thread on my commodore when they changed over the mags which were also faulty, (thats another story) when I went to take off the wheels due to the problem I couldnt get the nut off so I put all the rest back on again and took back over to them told them to get it off and yep stripped the thread tryed to blame me and I let loose, went back to holden as bob jane reckon holden did it on their pre delivery check, and the mechanics there said they should be charging bob jane as they had to replace the stud and said it was the 4th they had done in 1 week due to there rattle guns, and I couldnt beleive it when holden wewre using a wheel brace. They said they have gone away from using rattle guns as they cause too much trouble but I thnik it does have a lot to do with the torque settings, I have seen them use a bar that they attach between the socket and the gun suppose to be the correct tool to stop this from happening, but at the end of the day I wont let them use them on either of my vehicles, if they dont like it I go else where simple. Regards Steve M
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Reply By: Muzzgit (WA) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:41

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 00:41
Start writing everything down.....date of new tyres on car.....time and date of incident.....discription of person who fitted wheels to car etc etc;

Ring legal aid or go to consumer affairs type place in your state.

The owners manual gives strict instructions about fiiting wheels, including torque settings. Also, the tyre place will have been advised a hundred times about over tightening wheel nuts on alloy rims.
AnswerID: 182230

Reply By: Snowy 3.0iTD - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 07:27

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 07:27
Ian

Having a GU Patrol myself I have a engineering theory on this; do you have alloy wheels on your patrol, if not it will debunk my theory but here goes. Because the alloy metal in the Nissan alloy wheels is softer than the steel axle, steel wheel studs and steel wheel nuts, you get what is known as bedding in. When you put the wheel back on and tighten up the nuts as tight as they will go, with a bit of driving the steel axle stub and wheel studs will deform in to (bed) the back of the alloy wheel, and the wheel nuts can do the same on the front. We are not talking huge deformations, decimal points of a millimeter, but enough to eliminate the original tightness of the nuts. So after chaning a wheel I will generally stop about 50km down the road to retighten, and have had to do this. Ofcourse you may have steel wheels and blow my theory out of the water.

Regards

Snowy.
AnswerID: 182245

Follow Up By: IanN - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 22:29

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 22:29
Hello Snowy

You are spot on - we did have alloys on the Patrol when it happend. After 6 hours or so after the accident we go going again. I took some studs from the trailer we were towing and used them to get the spare on (also alloy, unused). At first I stopped every 30 km or so to check the nuts and I could get a little more of a "nip" into them until the 3rd or 4th time,

Interesting

Regards
Ian
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FollowupID: 438773

Reply By: Member - Coyote (SA) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 08:08

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 08:08
I have to agree that it seems thereis a fault with GU wheel nuts. I have an 05 GU and a few dyas after buying it I tried fitting the wheels from my old GU to it.. When I was tighetningthe nuts, I finger tightened them all, then as I was tighteningthem withthe spanner I sheared one of the studds. Now I 'm no feather weight, but i sure aint superman and I can assure you it didn't take a lot of effort to shear the stud... It's not like I was putting my weight into it or anything just tighetning it with my hands...
AnswerID: 182252

Follow Up By: donks1 - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 21:39

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 21:39
i work for a nissan dealer, have done for many years. we sell more patrols than almost any dealer in the country and have never seen this problem. i would sugest it has to do with the use of rattle guns as a main cause
we all know patrols have their problems but this is a new one...will look into it.
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FollowupID: 439288

Follow Up By: donks1 - Wednesday, Jul 12, 2006 at 09:43

Wednesday, Jul 12, 2006 at 09:43
have asked a few other dealers and all seem to agree it is to do with over tightening. even if you only do it by hand yourself, others may have over tightened previously, weakening the bolts. tyre shops are notorious for their use of rattle guns. here we only use them for undoing nuts...never doing them up.
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FollowupID: 439606

Reply By: Plantman - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 09:05

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 09:05
Hey IanN

What ever the case the studs do seem to have some history of shearing according to replies and past posts. It really leaves one in shock that Nissan is not on to this.

If the stud size in terms of diameter is not undersize when comparing to other makes and similar applications then it has to one of two things - Stud design flaw or material issue. It maybe worth while trying to shop around maybe at 4x4 stores or at actually bolt manufacturer or fastener suppliers to see if it is possible to replace studs with a higher tensile strength substitute. Some investigation as to the material properties of the existing studs may be required - this may come down to markings on the head depending on the supply and manufacture.

Cheers
AnswerID: 182268

Follow Up By: Trevor R (QLD) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 16:04

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 16:04
When it comes to Nissan, nothing surprises me. They have been fogging off 4.2 owners regarding their overheating for years. Just another nail to their coffin as far as I am concerned. Young and plenty more new cars left in me yet but not Nissan one's.

Trevor.
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FollowupID: 438687

Follow Up By: AJB - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 17:46

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 17:46
Well put Trevor. We are kindred spirits and that was the gist of the sheep shearing crack as Nissan is the manufacturer I had in mind.
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FollowupID: 438715

Follow Up By: donks1 - Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 14:08

Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 14:08
the hi and low points of the gauge is only 7 degrees different. past the h line is when you need to worry. normal operating position is about half way, there fore if it moves a bit higher, the actual temp has only risen about 3-4 degrees.
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FollowupID: 440098

Follow Up By: Trevor R (QLD) - Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 16:41

Friday, Jul 14, 2006 at 16:41
Donks,

If you are talking about temp gauge, I beg to differ. I have an aftermarket temp gauge (that has been checked for correct reading) and the GU's gauge moves 15c from 1/2 way to the bottom of the H zone. it also moves 15c before the GU gauge moves.

Regards, Trevor.
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FollowupID: 440113

Reply By: Steve63 - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 09:25

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 09:25
Interesting. I have a landcruiser that I switch between splits and alloys. The supplied wheels were alloy and the wheel nuts had a flange that fitted into the alloy making the contact area larger. When I was changing to the splits I rang Toyota about using these nuts on the split rims. They were not sure and recommended ringing a tyre place. I rang the one I usually go to and their reply was that there is no way that the alloy nuts should be used on steel rims or that the nuts used for steel rims should be used on alloys. As they recommended getting the nuts from Toyota they had nothing to gain but it was the first I had heard of this. Do Nissan have different nuts for alloys and steel rims?

Steve
AnswerID: 182271

Follow Up By: Rokkitt - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 10:42

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 10:42
Hi,

Yes they sure do....The flange nuts are to suit the Alloy rim and the square bolt for the steel rim.

Found this recently after buggering one of the flanged nuts.

Rod
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FollowupID: 438627

Follow Up By: Steve63 - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 10:45

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 10:45
Bet that was an expensive learning exercise. The ones for the Tojo are ~$25 each.

Steve
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FollowupID: 438629

Reply By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 10:36

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 10:36
Ian,

Please check the archive for my posts on this issue. Same thing happended to me in May while on the freeway in Melbourne. I now have collected examples from at least 8 Patrol owners. Nissan denied my warranty claim but the dealer repaired at no cost to me. Great dealer!

I am sure there is a major issue with the use of the alloy wheels from the 2002 model on and have asked that Nissan investgiate and advise all owners. It seems to me that torque settings are critical - check the manual.

I have referred the issue to the federal depoartment of transport for investigation. I suggest that you do the same.

I have changed to aftermarket steel wheels and have also fitted all new studs and nuts.

You would think Nissan would be more concerned about stary wheels leaving cars at 100km/hr!

I hope that the transport investigation will shake them up.

Please send me your contact details by email and a statement on what occured for my collection.

Cheers

Peter

mcguckian at acer dot edu dot au
AnswerID: 182285

Follow Up By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 12:04

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 12:04
that should have read - stray wheels leaving cars!

The web address for lodging your case with the federal Department of Transport and Regional Services is:

dynamic.dotars.gov.au/recalls/NotifyUs.asp

I ask that all Patrol owners that have lost a wheel send their details on.

Peter
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FollowupID: 438643

Follow Up By: IanN - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 22:43

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 22:43
Peter

can you give me an address where I can contact you ? I'd be happy to follow this up and will lodge a case

Thanks
Ian
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FollowupID: 438776

Follow Up By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 00:09

Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 00:09
Ian,

Give me a call tomorrow evening on 03 9754 1113 and I'll fill you in on my experience with my Nissan dealer. Email is mcguckian@acer.edu.au

Cheers

Peter
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FollowupID: 438784

Reply By: Mazdan - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 13:20

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 13:20
Certainly sounds like there is an issue with this model.

Also while it may be that the wheels were over tightened, personally i would have my money on them being under tightenned.

Maybe the mechanic got distracted and simply forgot.

I suspect an expert would be able to tell if they had been sheared off or partly so while being tightenned. This would tend to create a sort of twist in the metal of at least some oif the studs.

Or alternately if they have simply been bent off which is what would be most likely to happen if nuts came loose.
AnswerID: 182300

Follow Up By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 13:55

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 13:55
Mazdan

In my case the wheels had been last changed 5 months before. I suspect the issue is not with the studs but the seating of the nuts on the alloy wheel. The Nissan alloy wheel is made quite differently to Toyota, Landrover in that it uses the same nuts for the alloy wheel as for the steel wheel.

The fact is though that Nissan have not yet provided an explnation as to why and how this is happening. And they should! And quickly before someone is injured!

Peter
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FollowupID: 438655

Follow Up By: IanN - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 22:41

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 22:41
Hi Mazdan, Peter,

We have the what was left of the studs, but never recoverd the nuts and the better part of the studs. I asked one of the metallurgists in the company I work for to look at the parts we have. I'd damaged the ends when I hammered them out, but he seemed pretty confident it was a fatigue induced failure. The studs are "clean" new and not corroded in any way. His initial impression was that the nuts had been under torqued. I wonder looking at some of the posts that they became loose due to an issue with the alloys ? I regret I didn't ever check. Before the trip we drove around Perth for a couple of weeks ok. I find it hard to believe if the nuts were loose from the get go we would not have known earlier

Ian
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FollowupID: 438775

Reply By: Member - Scott M (NSW) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 15:20

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 15:20
PostID: 33346 disucssed this issue as well.
AnswerID: 182309

Follow Up By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 15:33

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 15:33
And PostID 34261 relates to my experience. So we are running at one each month reported on Exploroz and many before that.

As I have said earlier, please send a submisison to federal transport.

Peter
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FollowupID: 438678

Reply By: GaryInOz (Vic) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 16:01

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 16:01
Overtightening the nuts with alloy rims can cause problems as the alloy can crack and spread, causing the nut to appear loose again, so the logical thing to do is to tighten it up even tighter the next time causing further damage with the possibility of stretching the threads added to the original problems, and the cycle goes on....

Clearly the wrong thing to do is to overtighten them in the first place as this impacts both the rim by causing radial cracks around the stud hole and crushing/decomposition of the alloy crystaline structure, and the stud by stretching the thread and weakening the stud.

IIRC the recommended torque is 100 Nm for steel rims and 80 Nm for alloys. They make the OE wheel wrench that short for a reason, ideally if an average person puts all their strength into tightening the nut using the OE wrench, then it is torqued up to the correct amount.
AnswerID: 182319

Follow Up By: Peter McG (Member, Melbourne) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 20:39

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 20:39
Gary,

The handbook has only one set of torque settings. No difference between steel and alloy. If oyur theory is correct then all alloys on all GUs are likely to drop off and as I have said Nissan should be doing something. Like calling all wheels in for inspection and change as necessary.

I understand that factory alloys on 2000 and 2001 TIs had a totally different wheel nut - similar to Toyota alloys. They had a centre which fitted through the wheel. This would seem a much better option. Clearly to expensive to make though.

My recommendation is to fit steel wheels with new nuts and then use a torque wrench.

Please spread the word.

Peter
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FollowupID: 438750

Follow Up By: GaryInOz (Vic) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 21:23

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 21:23
It was more general info, rather than specific to the GQ/GU....
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FollowupID: 438759

Reply By: Black Beard - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 17:59

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 17:59
I dunno, I must have the only good GU in australia. Had the ute since new, about 4 sets of tyres plus the odd change-out (without a torque wrench) and never had a single drama. Has had bot steel and alloy rims on it. I regularly put that silver anti-sieze stuff on the studs and 235000 K's later, no probs!
AnswerID: 182338

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 21:51

Friday, Jul 07, 2006 at 21:51
Not unknown on the 6 stud LandCruisers either. Maybe theres a reason why Toyota changed from six 12mm studs to five 14mm studs??? Torque settings went up, but the wheel wrench looks the same length :-)))

Also, I'll also put my vote in for anti-sieze on the stud threads.
AnswerID: 182371

Reply By: The Explorer - Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 16:10

Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 16:10
Well what do you know - just then was trying out a spare I had on the rear of the Prado - couldn’t undo the right rear wheel nuts using the standard brace - resorted to a short bit of pipe - SNAP - wheel nut falls to the ground (with stud inside). Tyres were rotated by the Toyota dealer last service - obviously over exuberant use of the rattle gun.
Oh what a feeling!
Greg
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AnswerID: 182423

Reply By: Member - Kingsley N (SA) - Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 16:50

Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 16:50
I have posted several times on this forum about this problem with my 2003 GU patrol. It was the LHS wheel studs that failed. Post No 15734 tells my story.

I'm with Peter McG. Nissan should be aware of this problem by now.

I had my alloy wheel repaired with steel inserts in the holes, but I am a bit loathe to introduce that wheel to the road. I keep it for emergency use only.

The Nissan dealer who repaired the hub said he had seen Toyotas do this but not a Nissan. The Manual advises you to torque the nuts correctly and check them within 1000KM. I personally would check them within 50KM after changing a wheel. The question is why don't the dealers or Tyre Fitters have a standing requirement to recheck the nuts? Too complicated I suppose so do they do them up a bit tighter?

I now check my wheel nuts regularly with a torque wrench, but remember if the nuts have already been overtightened, the wrench will click off at the setting. You have to back them off and then torque up. It should not be necessary to go through this routine, but once bitten..

Kings
AnswerID: 182428

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