RIP: ZD30 fuel pump

I use a Debug www.morisons.com.au

However, I'm sure BillS will be along shortly with his advice.

The other thing I'd suggest outback travellers do is to fit another filter and a lift pump back nearer the fuel tank to help push the fuel through the extra filters etc.

Sorry to read about your plight with the pump mate, that's a real bad news story, but unfortunately it's not an isolated instance for the 3.0L rocket. Pud and Barb did an injector pump early on in the life of theirs and subsequently blew the whole motor and have had several other issues with oil leaks, inter-cooler hose coming off (or probably "blowing off" due to excess boost pressure me thinks).

Cheers

Roachie

Don't find the cheap discounters out there.

Coober Pedy has both Shell and Mobil depots that turn over a heap of diesel. I'd trust them well ahead of any of the small city servos. Port Augusta has a heap of truck stops too.

Perhaps a CAV filter in place of the OEM unit would help get rid of the crud? It fits in the OEM primer assembly perfectly, but the filters are expensive from memory.

Sorry, link didn't work....try

www.morison.com.au

Craig,

Those CAV filters are very cheap mate, about $5- to $8- at most places.

I use one of those in place of the standard filter, plus the Debug before that. Some blokes elect to use the standard filter, but add a whole extra CAV filter prior to it; only need to change the CAV regularly (say every 10,000klm) and the OE filter every 50,000klm or so.

Cheers

Roachie

Sorry Roachie, the filters I were using weren't CAVs (senior's moment), they were supplied from OL and were bloody expensive, just can't remember for the life of me what brand they were but did an admirable job. CAV filters certainly are cheap!

No worries mate, they were probably RACOR filters......have a sort of orange coloured plastic bowl on the bottom?

Grey actually, but Racor rings a bell.

The cheapest place that I've found to buy the CAV filter assembly is at Whitworths marine supplies, $59 for the one with a glass bowl on the bottom. I usually buy the filter elements at Western filters by the slab (12) which cost around the $5 mark.

Hi Roachie

I have 3.0 litre gu4 i would like to fit one of the de bug units do these need a take up pump to push the fuel through or should it just sit in the system with out any problems and would you recommened in the engine bay ornear the tanks.

David,

Just curios as to why you want to fir a debug unit? I have the same vehicle and I don't feel the need.

Leroy

David T,

It shouldn't need any extra pumping unless you add a lot of extra plumbing in (like on Ron Moon's 4.2, where he mounted the Debug unit on the passenger's side of the engine bay). It's not a filter as such, so there is no extra resistence for the fuel to overcome. It is a alloy bowl with a drain plug and 3 large, donut-shaped magnets suspended in/on plastic stands. Fuel goes in and any heavy particles fall to the bottom. It's supposed to do the same with algae blooms etc, but afaik I have never suffered from that anyway.

Leroy,

I cannot say whether it works or not.....it's in the same category as the ShuRoo (recently removed), the CounterAct Electronic Rust Prevention etc. I have put them on as a type of insurance policy cos I do a bit of remote travel and "IF" I ever get a dose of bad fuel, it'd be nice to know (or at least believe) that the Debug might prevent some drama. The occasions when I have serviced the Debug, it always has a small amount of sediment (looks like fine sand) in the bottom, which the filter would have stopped anyway I guess, but you can never be too sure.

Cheers blokes

Roachie

Yep, sounds like WHAT A LOAD OF CRAP to me. I've been running backyard B100 Biodiesel for over 6months now, I literally have not been to the serevo this year!

I also did a lot of work for the fuel supply depos and retailers over here in the West and that "dregs" comment is complete argoance coupled with neivety. It's got more to do with the tanks fuel is stored at in a particular servo than the supplier anyway, some of the branded sites have got crappy old rusty tanks and some of the budget suppliers have got brand new plastic tanks and vice versa.

Nissan, get a life. Admit you have built a crappy engine and stop pointing the finger at other people!

I once put the question of is there any better filter to put on a zd30 other than genuine to the bosch injection pump on str nav to the bosch suppler in sydney once he said it is one of the better filters to use he also said it doesnt matter what filter u use if u get bad fuel it still gets thru.

DMH 122.

In my opinion your on the money!!. Drain the tank, fill it up with water, start the motor!, whats going to happen?? The thing will start with what fuel is in the lines, when the water gets there, which it will the motor will cough splutter, blow odd smoke, then F....king stop. No amount of filters will stop that. But if the contamination is that bad i personally dont think the pump would get destroyed unless you tried to keep going with the thing running rough as guts. Just maybe some do this not realizing whats going on.

Axle

" Drain the tank, fill it up with water, start the motor!, whats going to happen?? The thing will start with what fuel is in the lines, when the water gets there, which it will the motor will cough splutter, blow odd smoke, then F....king stop."

Before that the water trap alarm should go off. Are they fitted to Nissans?

Gotta agree with Jeff, NIssan are w..king on. What are they saying, could only be one of 2 things? That their crap engine wont handle fuel to Australian standard, or a major supplier is supplying fuel that is not to A.Standard. If the latter then it should be EASY f...ing PEESY to send a sample of what is still in the tank away for testing by consumer affairs.
Then again it would not have been at all smart to admit putting Jet A1 in the tank?

I think you are getting off the track a bit, the problem in the original question was fuel contamination not putting water in fuel tank.

I am aware of the JetA1 properties as I am an aircraft engineer so I only put in less than half a tank. It is a dry fuel due to the extremely low sulphur content and the ZD30 is designed for low sulphur fuels, but in future I will also use an additional lubricant such as flash lube.
Years ago in NZ when there was the fuel pump failures on the BAE146 and Metros after introducing the low sulphur JetA1, there was a special lubricant we used to add to the fuel. Wish I remember what it was and could lay my hands on some.
Normally for diesels fuelled on A1 we have added two stroke oil to the fuel until it was oily and slippery when rubbed between your fingers. Current JetA1 feels dry, while Arctic rated fuel from Russia I have had experience with in the cold climates feels like diesel and is clear like the A1 and smells different out of a PT6.

Putting Kero (Jet A1) in a diesel.... with OR without additives.
you are a braver man than I!

Do airlines give away Jet A1 while adding a fuel levy to passengers, or is it being pinched??

Once the fuel is drained from the aircraft tanks for whatever reason (repairs etc.) it cannot be used again in an aircraft due possible contamination. I am not in airlines either but in another area of aviation so please do not think you are paying for the occasional top up with Jet A1 I have used.

The Nissan users manual states that you can add up to 30% kerosene to your diesel to prevent waxing in colder climates!!!!

Instead of paying big dollars for additives, you'll get far more extra lubricosity from a couple of litres of new vege oil bought at the supermarket and poured straight in each tankful.

Tim