Anne Beadell Hwy

Submitted: Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 15:19
ThreadID: 36737 Views:5141 Replies:13 FollowUps:22
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Well, Old Lenny Beadell must have had a very good sense of humour when he named his rocket roads 'Highways'. I know he had good humour as one can see that from his sketches and cartoons and of his writings.

Prior to travelling the AB, which has been done by thousands of others, I was warned of the hellish corrugations up and as far as Emu. They weren't wrong either!!! The only thing is that the 'orrible corru's continued on all the way to Yeo Lakes and beyond, around 1200 kilometres.

I dropped the tyre pressures to 20 on the GQ and 10 on the trailer and then tried to maintain 60kmh.

The track known as the AB traverses a rather flat terrain with the odd dune creeping in from the right. The foliage is quite interesting in places and Desert Poplars are growing in many places. After getting all the useless permits to travel this way we looked for interesting camp sites and found them away from the main AB track. Thisis probably NOT allowed iun the true sense of the word but whoi really cares? Along one seismic track one of our crew mentioned seeing a shiny thing in the bush. On closer inspection we found that it was a U Beaut Rain Guage with an inbuilt solar panel. It had been installed maybe a week before in the absolutely middle of nowhere. Maybe we were were not supposed to find it. Anyway, the purpose for this guage is unknown.

The atomic blast sites were interesting inasmuch that the foliage which had been vaporised, has not really grown back even after 54 years. After crossing into WA we were pleased to find Butterfly Rain Tanks along the way and we were able to refill our water container as well as having a shower and a general cleanup. The GQ had no tyre problems on the AB but me mate shredded a MTR 750/16. Not sure for the reason but it just melted. He was abke to buy a used 750/16 at the Ilkurka Roadhouse.

The Ilkurka(pronounced Ilkuka) is situated on the Madura/Laguna/AB crossing and was 3 years in operation at the beginning of July. This very modern facllity had a shop, food, fuel, water, hot showers and more. The managers went out of their way to make us welcome and helped us wherever they could. The RH has EFTPOS.

After Ilkurka the corrugations became a tad smaller but still did not let up. Near Yeo Lakes we went off aliong the disused track as denoted by Hema GDT Maps and it disappeared into the sea of spinifex grass. I did not have my oziexplorer running and and only after staking a tyre I found where we had gone wrong(Oziexplorer saves the day).

We turned towards the GCR after camping at Sunday Point and started another adventure up the David Carnegie Road and Eagle Hwy.

We met only 13 other vehicles on the AB and some we had to overtake as they were doing it tough at 20kmh with broken shockies. Needless to say some of them were not amused at us speeding along and one bloke asked over the radio if we were on the Cannonball Run. He was towing a caravan type camper! Each to their own.

The AB is something to mark down on my map as having been there but it is unlikely to draw me there again.

Cheers

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Reply By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 15:24

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 15:24
Humour indeed Mr Willem, have just been delving back into my Beadell memories as a mate has jst landed at Emu and spent 3hrs or so there taking pics and taking in the scenery. Len makes it all seem so recent and so easy really.
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Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:47

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:47
Having met, been privileged to listen to him speak a few times and then camped with Len over 4 or 5 days he did indeed have a huge sense of humour. He also had that dry aussie humour with much said tongue in cheek.
I too have often been on one of his 'highways' have crested a high point and seen the 'road' straight as a die to the next significant landmark. Amazing stamina and resourcefulness and I for one remain in awe of his achievements in such remote country that we think of as a 'hard' trip with all the gear we carry let alone the vehicles we drive.
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Reply By: Footloose - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 16:20

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 16:20
Wnem Len put the tracks through I guess he had no idea that one day thousands of others would corregate them beyond belief.
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Follow Up By: Dave198 - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 18:32

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 18:32
Footloose, I am not trying to hijack Willems great story, or create an argument, but is it the vehicles or the wind that creates the corrugations.

My theory is that it is the wind. There are corrugation type formations along the sandhills too, but no traffic.

I don't think the corrugations are as bad on roads that are generally away from the West - East alignment, which is where a lot of our wind comes from

But, I maybe wrong with this theory, I am wrong on lotsa other things.
Dave
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Follow Up By: Des Lexic - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 20:44

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 20:44
Dave, Corrugations are caused by vehicles generally travelling too fast or too higher tyre pressure. I have seen roads deteriorate soon after being graded and no or little wind in the days following the grading. Also, our winds are generally from the SW and why do North/South roads corrugate then. Opposing views will be forthcoming but generally, the above reasons are accepted as the most plausable.
I have travelled the AB and Connie Sue and agree with his remarks on the corrugations but it is such beautiful country, I shall return there at some time in the future.
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Follow Up By: Squizzy - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 08:33

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 08:33
I agree with Des Lexic, the AB is wonderful country.
When we travelled it two years ago we had rain for 4 days, but it was still a good drive.

As for corrugations, we found the track was better maintained after Serpentine Lakes and the WA border. We were travelling east to west.

Ilkurlka RH was $1.64/L for diesel back then.

So much to see and explore out there. We are returning again one day.

Geoff.
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Follow Up By: greydemon - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:27

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:27
Hi Des Lexic, you are right in that high speeds and high tyre pressure create corrugations faster, but according to Dr Karl you are going to get them regardless of speed and tyre pressure - even on railway lines!

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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:17

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:17
definitly vehicular traffic. Once you get off the tourist routes you rarely encounter them and if you do they are small
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Reply By: Member - Pesty (SA) - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 17:03

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 17:03
Hi Willem,
Welcome back safe, any trip is better than none at all like some of us ! LOL
Sounds like yours was good, funny how you are just mentioning about Len Beadell, as although I read all his books many years ago, I recently bought my own copies of his full set and am half way through the last one at pressent, and yes he was a character, and yes he never would have imagined the amount of traffic on those roads these days.
The down side is if they ever do them up, every Tom, Dick and Harry will be out there and it will be 1300 cars not 13 !

Cheers mate, catch up soon Pesty
AnswerID: 188789

Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:04

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:04
G'day mate

Have you had the donk out yet or is she still puffing away :-)
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 17:07

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 17:07
Hi Willem,

Just got in the door after our second Simpson trip for the year. Hope yours was enjoyable too.

I've not done the full Anne Beadell Hwy in a single trip - been saved from that by the Cook Road every time. The Cook Rd makes it tolerable - no corrugations, nice sandhills, nice black oaks and a lot of history.

Cheers
phil
AnswerID: 188790

Reply By: Des Lexic - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 20:46

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 20:46
Glad your back all safe and sound. Nice to read your trip report too. Welcome back young fella.
AnswerID: 188825

Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:03

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:03
Thanks Uncle. Will catch up one of these days
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Reply By: STEVE069 - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 21:45

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 21:45
Hi all, Have you read his books? they are very interisting. Back in the 1950s with nothing out their he was out their making roads. No AC just a landrover,bulldozer,grader and a chuck wagon. His books are well worth reading.

Steve
AnswerID: 188835

Reply By: Member - Errol (York WA) - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 22:20

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 22:20
Have to disagree Willem . We throught it was pretty good up to Emu , going from west to east . After Emu , it was some of the worst iv'e seen anywhere . We throught Cape York was bad , not a patch on that section of the AB . It's about 7 weeks since we were over it . Cheers
AnswerID: 188842

Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:07

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:07
Well Errol we must have just missed one another by a week or so on the trek.

You obviously enjoy corrugations. I don't. Each to their own....LOL

Cheers
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Reply By: Motherhen - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 22:44

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 22:44
Great to hear from you Willem - it's been quite a while. Glad you're still tracking well.

I too am enjoying Len's books, and look longingly at those tempting dotted lines on my map book.

Motherhen
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Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:16

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:16
Hi Motherhen

I was contemplating a quick trip down south but I think we had had enough of camping by that stage and when I looked at the map at Kal it looked too far away to the wet country...lol

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Motherhen - Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 22:18

Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 22:18
Thanks for the thought Willem - not as much rain as you actually coming like last year, but the thought alone has a last brought us some decent rains.
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Reply By: Richard Kovac - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 01:09

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 01:09
Willem Hi

God dam you'd think that a road (Hwy) started the year I was born would have been re-graded by this time, WHAT the f the government doing..

Good to see you had a good trip anyway

PERMITS!!!!!

did you p in the gauge?

We'r off Tue. heading east, Vic. we may fined time to call in on the way back.

if not who care's LOL..

Richard

AnswerID: 188863

Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:09

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:09
Yer Richard...drop in for a cuppa on your way past. Going to be away first two weeks of October otherwise you will find me in the back yard fixing the broken bits on the GQ :-)
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Reply By: Troop-a-dour - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 10:02

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 10:02
"After getting all the useless permits to travel this way we looked for interesting camp sites and found them away from the main AB track. Thisis probably NOT allowed iun the true sense of the word but whoi really cares?"

With that attitude we wonder why 4WDers are treated with such distain!!!

We travelled the Beadell Highways last year, including Anne Beadell, Connie Sue, Gunbarrel & Old GB including a large section of the Eastern piece. Had no problems seeking and obtaining permits required. We were even offered (and secured) permits for areas not normally available.
At one stage we hadn't seen another vehicle for over 3 days- and they hadn't seen anyone for 5 days.
Oh. ..and the roadhouse on the AB is actually spelt Ilkulka. I hope you gave Bill (the black dog) a biscuit.
And would I do that trip again- you betcha!!!!
AnswerID: 188882

Follow Up By: Squizzy - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 12:45

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 12:45
"Oh. ..and the roadhouse on the AB is actually spelt Ilkulka"

Sorry troop-a-dour, it is spelt ILKURLKA.
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Follow Up By: Troop-a-dour - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:02

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:02
Squizzy,
Whilst Ilkurkla is a recognised name of the area within the Shire of Laverton (in dispute by the Shire of Menzies) that area of the Spinifex (People) Determination Area. The roadhouse is named and referred to, even by the occupiers, as Ilkulka.
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Follow Up By: Squizzy - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:09

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:09
Anne Beadell Highway / Serpentine Lakes Road

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ilkurlka Roadhouse PH: (08) 9037 1147 or (08) 9037 1100 (Tjuntjunjara Community)
(165 kms West of South Australia/Western Australian Border)
Monday to Saturday 8am-5pm
Saturday, Sunday & Public Holidays By appointment

EFTPOS/Credit Card Facilities Available
Bankcard, MasterCard and Visa Cards accepted
No Fuel Cards accepted
Diners and American Express not accepted
No permit required to utilise this roadhouse

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FollowupID: 446200

Follow Up By: Troop-a-dour - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:22

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 13:22
you say tomatoes- I say tomatoes
you say potatoes- I say potatoes
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Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:02

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:02
"After getting all the useless permits to travel this way we looked for interesting camp sites and found them away from the main AB track. This is probably NOT allowed in the true sense of the word but who really cares?"

Hey Troopie

That is not a 4wd attitude it is mine. I for one dont agree with the permit system and will not apply for them in the future as it is a waste of time.

But who really cares? C'mon you tell me. Who has asked to see a permit out there. It is all bureaucratic crap and in essence serves no purpose whatsoever other than to justify funding applications.

My dog played with Bill the black dog but no biscuits were asked for.
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Follow Up By: Troop-a-dour - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:40

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:40
Hi Willem
Unfortunately this is not only your attitude. The consideration of 'I'll go where I want to- and camp where I want to' is becoming all too familiar around the country. I realize it can be a pain in the butt for some people to observe rules, regulations & beaurocratic crap but so be it. I, for one, would be disappointed to see the DEH 'officially' close the section of road passing through the Conservation Park, or limit it only to groups like The Friends of the Desert. As you say, if the permits do no more than to justify funding applications - Great, it would justify also the little bit of maintenance the roads do receive. Even if it's only a Toyo trayback towing a mesh of heavy chains to knock the crests off the corrugations. And you were appreciative of the water from the 'butterfly' roofs/tanks- I wonder how and why they were put there. Bearing in mind, most of the permits required have no cost attached (apart from a token charge to DEH if I recall??)
The 'newish' facilities at Dalhousie Springs (for example) were funded with support from complying people purchasing Desert Passes.
In summary- in answer to your question of "Who really cares??" Well, I do- as I've got a lot of travels to do yet, and I'll be really bleep off if a road is inaccessible because 'others' haven't done the right thing!!!!

OK- all the Rednecks can come out of the closet now.....
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Follow Up By: Member - Andrew W (SA) - Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 22:59

Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 22:59
First my conflict of interest - I have good friends in the Maralinga and related people - but then, I don't think it shades my opinions.

The Unnamed Conservation Park and Maralinga Lands are a new venture for everyone - the Maralinga People, the National Parks (I think the first jointly run park in SA), and the State and Federal Governments.

The UCP has had little investment in it - just like the A-B (in SA anyway).

The old fellas who know about the history of the place, haven't had a chance to take the younger fellas out there and show them what is what - after all they were forcibly removed way back in the '50s. They are remedying that.

The area is in many places pristine - almost untouched - some even from exploration, (although not much) and almost all from European feet, tyres or tracks.

If you just roar on down the AB you probably will miss the interest there - the marble gums, the lakes, the lizards, the art ... and unfortunately if you go off-track you might well miss it too and ruin it for posterity. Not much grows out there - what does takes a long time mostly.

A permit system keeps some track of who has been out there doing what.

So, issuing FREE passes is a way of knowing who goes where and what they are doing. This information helps the rangers know what sort of things people want to do there, so they can improve the park experience for others. It helps the Maralinga people know what sort of tourism ventures they might invest in - an Ilkurlka-like roadhouse, for instance, or an equipped camping ground etc. etc.

If you would like some more interpretative assets in the park - signs, stories, new tracks to interesting places, etc.

If you would like more facilities for travellers ... the maralinga boys have so far built one water stop - they plan on building more.

Then, the permit application process - which in my experience (perhaps not representative) is pretty painless and quite fast, is a small price to pay - and costs you almost nothing.

Their policing of it is pretty ad-hoc, for sure. Is that a problem? Even if you didn't have a permit, I don't think the Maralinga rangers would make life at all hard for you (although their brothers at Yalata, I'm not so sure about). They would still be happy smiling people willing to tell you anything you asked and help you in any way they could.

Like Troop-a-dour, I care. I am always interested and enjoy reading what you (Willem) are doing, but would strongly encourage you to support the system a little more, and encourage it's proper use.

After all, you might just want their help one day when you are out there. The permit might help them know where to find you, or what you are doing.

It's not ideal - for sure. Three or four permits, from three or four different bodies who don't always talk but easily could. An office (Oak Valley) that doesn't answer the phone. Not enough rangers and even they are still learning the ropes. A massive area declared as Conservation Park but with almost no Management Plans.

These are challenges exacerbated by distance, culture and lack of experience but not by desire, will or commitment in my analysis. I am sure that the A-B experience has a lot more to offer in years to come, and I can't wait to see it.

Everyone - give these guys a bit of respect where you can - the history of Maralinga has left a complex legacy, but I find the owners one of the most together and motivated indigenous communities anywhere in the country. With our support they can achieve a lot more, and we can all benefit from it as they do.

Drop me an email if you want to know who to talk to there.

Ciao for now
Andrew.
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Follow Up By: Willem - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:44

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:44
Thanks for your follow up Andrew. I appreciate what you say but my views are pretty 'one-eyed' about this and I do not detract from them.

I also appreciate that a permit system lets someone know who is out there.... but who takes any notice?

We did not drive off track along the AB, but off track driving in itself is subjective to interpretation as to what the impact may be etc etc.

We can go on for hours going around in circles.......LOL

Cheers
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FollowupID: 446935

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:26

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:26
I guess, just a comment on the stoush about permits:

#1 The access permits are free and are usually obtained via fax in a matter of days. Only cost is the $6.50 per vehicle per night token camping fee by the DEH for the Unnamed Conservation Park and Tallaringa.
#2 The area is very remote - I have no problems with the authorities trying to keep track of who is out there. Many of the trips I've done there have been very lonely - often don't see anyone else for a week.

The problem on this forum is that Willem is well respected. If he spreads the word that "permits are unnecessary" then the Exploroz faithful are likely to believe it. I personally believe that permits in this area are a good thing.

But then again I also believe that the corrugations should be kept - can't make all the remote trips too easy.

Cheers
phil
AnswerID: 188971

Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 19:15

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 19:15
Hi Phil and Troopy above

It is entirely my personal opinion.

If people believe what I say as gospel, the more fool them. I cannot help them.

Personally I do not want to be under the control of anybody. We are led to believe that this must be the norm and a good example is that of the mining industry in WA where you are told in no uncertain terms that they hold the upper hand and that it is a priviledge for you to breathe the same air as them. The Pilbara Shire exudes this same kind of sentiment. The Ngaantjarra Council/Shire is making the same overtures. They want POWER! It makes travel to some of those areas undesirable. But then other 'authorities' and 'instances' are far more relaxed.

The cost of a permit isnt the issue. The system of the permit is.

You are welcome to email me through my website below if you care to discuss this matter at length as for the time being enough has been said here in this thread.

Cheers

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FollowupID: 446278

Reply By: Big Kidz (Andrew & Jen) - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 19:46

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 19:46
Hi Willem

Great to hear from you though I must admit I am a little jealous - me working and you tripping around. Was wondering where you were as I had not heard anything of you for ages.

Trying to sort out my holidays for next July so we can make it to Warraweena though I think I might try and camp on the high ground as last time I was there did not have much of a view from our little campsite in the gully. Didn't like sleeping in a wet oilskin much either.

Keep well ... who are you travelling with - Uncle??

Andrew
AnswerID: 188998

Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:13

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:13
Hi Andrew

You went north the same time as we took off to the west. Jude and Jeddah came along this time and friends from darwin as well.

Uncle has recently had a big operation and is fighting fit again. I think however that his 4x4 days are over. His Troopy is rotting away in the long grass.

I think we might be safe from high water in July. Unless................a certain person does another Raindance....lol

Cheers
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FollowupID: 446293

Reply By: Member - John R (NSW) - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 09:57

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 09:57
Gidday Willem,

Did you take any photos of the Totem 1 and 2 bomb sites that you might like to share?

Thanks.
AnswerID: 189440

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