Batteries - Determining Level of Charge

Submitted: Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 10:30
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Hi all,

Do any of the more technically minded have some suggestions on how to determine the level of charge in a battery?

I've decided to go for a deep-cycle AGM, but have no idea how to determine when its approaching its recommended limit of discharge - say 20% remaining.

A voltage meter on a cheapie power pack indicates that 100% is 12.8V, 50% is 12.2V, and 25% is 11.8V. Is voltage an accurate measure of the remaining charge, and would those voltage measurements be roughly correct?

Also, I ran a test on the deep-cycle battery I'm replacing (it will be the spare), by hooking it up to a 13W (1.08A) fluoro light. One thing I did note, that after accidentally forgetting to disconnect this light overnight, I'd run down the battery to 9.80V. However, 30 mins after removing the load (the light), the voltage had recovered to 10.8V, and after 90 mins it was up to 11.8V. at which point it stabilised and the voltage remained constant.

So, ***if*** voltage is a 'reasonable' indicator of charge, should it be measured at some later time to allow the battery to recover and stabilise it's voltage?

I have looked into the battery monitors, but these seem awfully expensive, while the cheaper ones are nothing more that a volt meter.

Cheers, Max

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Reply By: fisho64 - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:00

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:00
Im not an expert but do deal with them a bit.
The only real accurate way is a load test. Voltage I think tells you the state of charge, but nothing about the condition.
SG tells you more about the condition and state of charge.
Using voltage only will not show if there is a "surface charge" only-ie, been charged at a high rate from discharge.
"experts "feel free to correct me!
AnswerID: 193125

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 13:59

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 13:59
State of Charge and Capacity are quite different.

When a 100 amp-hour battery is new, then when it's at 50% state of charge, it has a capacity of 50 amp-hours.

After many years when it's at 50% state of charge, it may have 25 amp-hours capacity.

Both voltage and SG indicate state of charge - if you know more about the battery you can transate that to capacity.
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Follow Up By: fisho64 - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 16:51

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 16:51
thats why I didnt mention capacity-usually a figure provided by the manufacturer in perfect test conditions on a battery selected for test.
"condition" relates to it as it actually is?
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Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 00:22

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 00:22
Capacity is measured in amp-hours

State-of-charge is measured in %
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Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:38

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:38
Point taken, thanks. Basically, need to know 'how much longer will it run my fridge'.
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Reply By: Robin - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:11

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:11
Hello Max

Battery Voltage is a poor way to measure state of charge but its about the best
we got without getting serious.

Main thing is to aviod the very wrong readings you have noted which mostly occur
in 1/2 or so after charging or discharging.

Most , can't or be bothered with , measuring specific gravity which is more accurate.

So what I suggest is to do the best with inaccurate system that is a least practical.

1st
This means first you need an accurate multimeter - I do not agree with getting a cheapie.

Typically 100% is 12.65v at room temp. (that is the battery internally is at room temp- and this is not case if it has just been charged/discharged)
Now battery chemistries can be a little different and voltage for 100% could be a little higher/lower.

2nd
have your own battery charged fully leave it for few hours and measure its voltage with the equipment you will use when it counts. Do this at average temp you expect when it counts. This will give you a differential to 12.65

Now you have a practical but rough reading of when yours charged.

If your reading was 12.65 aty 100%

then 12.45 will be roughly 75%

then 12.25 will be roughly 50%

then 12.05V will be roughly 25%

and below this will be - Help!

If very cold battery volts will be higher so i.e. 12.75 not 12.65 =100%
if very warm then 12.55v is roughly 100%

Important - use the above figures as a variation from what you measured when
you measured yours fully charged i.e. if measured yours as 13v fully charged
then apply the difference (13-12.65=0.35 ) to the above figures to give rough
state of charge based or your particular battery/voltmeter combination.

Robin Miller



AnswerID: 193131

Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:49

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:49
Thanks Robin!
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Reply By: Moose - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:31

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:31
G'day Max
Not wanting to steal your thread but given that measuring SG is the best way to know the condition of a battery I'm wondering about the reliability of the cheap hydrometers one can buy in say BigW or KMart. Are they accurate enough?
Cheers from the Moose.
AnswerID: 193135

Follow Up By: Member - andrew B (Kununurra) - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 22:10

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 22:10
Gday Moose, Max (and all), hydromters may be great, but don't work too well on AGM or gel batteries!

Cheers Andrew
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Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:40

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:40
G'day Andrew

Yep, my problem exactly... I'm getting an AGM sealed unit.

Cheers, Max
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Reply By: Wiskers - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:32

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 12:32
Max
I know very little about batteries. I found the easiest way for me to monitor a battery was to buy an Analogue Monitor and connected it permanently to the auxiliary battery.
I then check the level of charge each morning, usually twelve hours after it hasn't been used. I bought a unit for under $40 off eBay from Derek Bester Affordable Batteries who advertises on this site. I used a short piece of 2 inch poly pipe to mount the unit, plus a couple of cable ties (great things cable ties) and then ran two wires to the battery. I did put in an in-line small fuse. It may look a bit rough, but it's simple and works for me.
Have a look at a photo of the Monitor in My Rig photos.
Hope this helps.
With regards.
One life. Live it while you can.

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AnswerID: 193136

Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:48

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:48
Thanks Wiskers

I have a voltmeter, but it would definitely be more practical to permanently mount a meter on my camper trailer, since the battery is in an awkward location.Will check out Derek's eBay listings.

Cheers, Max
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Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 13:01

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 13:01
" I'd run down the battery to 9.80V. However, 30 mins after removing the load (the light), the voltage had recovered to 10.8V, and after 90 mins it was up to 11.8V. at which point it stabilised and the voltage remained constant. "

Max - fortunately you've seen first-hand why the "standard" voltage vs capacity tables are meaningless unless you wait 12 hours after stopping charging or discharging.

Also AGMs have a full voltage closer to 13.0 than 12.6.

Also the recommendations to stop discharging at 12.3 volts are useless because DURING DISCHARGE the charge vs voltage relationship changes with discharge current. I could post the table I've compiled yet again, but taht seems to be pointless.

A battery is a chemical store, so if done correctly SG gives an accurate indication of State of Charge (don't confuse this with amp-hours). But since you're using an AGM that's useless.

The other two ways get a bit more expensive -

Amphour meters to actually measure how much you've taken out since the last full charge - these can be pretty accurate if you regularly charge the battery fully. The DrainBrain seems to be quite accurate, can take up to 60 amps and measures both discharge and charge amp-hours. You can adjust the charge current calibration to accoount for charge efficiency. The current shunt is in the negative lead so you can't use it for the Starting Battery. It costs about $130.

Impedance measurements allow instant estimation of capacity by applying a test discharge current. Derek Bester - ABR - sells one of these.
AnswerID: 193141

Follow Up By: Leroy - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 22:37

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 22:37
SG = specific gravity

Leroy
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Reply By: Derek from Affordable Batteries & Radiators - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 15:56

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 15:56
Hi Max

Yes Mike is right the current test is a good way to analyse a batteries level of charge.

My LCD monitor will show you level and condition of the battery. You will also know when it is no longer serviceable by the flashing icon and beep.

Regards Derek.
AnswerID: 193164

Follow Up By: Leroy - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 22:36

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 22:36
hmmm lately starting to sound a little like out banned mate BillS!!

Leroy
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Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:18

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:18
Nah, think Derek's just trying to help. Besides, he's not selling stuff with blatantly unprovable and unlikely claims, is he? To the uninformed like me, it's all useful info.

Cheers, Max
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Reply By: Wizard2 - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 16:42

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 16:42
Try this site,

Site Link
AnswerID: 193170

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 00:25

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 00:25
I have concerns about spending more on the battery monitor than on the battery.
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Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:53

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 08:53
Yeh, me too! If it wasn't for the weight and space, I'd just buy an extra couple of batteries....
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Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 17:16

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 17:16
An interesting and rather complex topic, particularly when using AGMs, as I do. This is probably the only disadvantage I can think of with AGMs, and given that most of us travel without a hydrometer, it hardly counts.

From experience with my system, I have learned my own 'rule of thumb'. My fridge controller has a built in digital voltage meter. Each morning, I check it soon after rising, but with the fridge compressor running. A reading below 12V indicates 'charge today'; if it's a hot day, do it this morning. If not, this afternoon is OK.
A reading below 11.5V indicates 'charge soon'; ie if packing up and driving after breakfast, it's OK, if not, get the gennie out within a couple of hours.

A reading below 11V indicates 'charge now'.

Below that, the low voltage cut out has probably prevented the fridge from starting some time during the night. This has only happened a couple of times in the past 12 months.

The voltages I am reading, may or may not be accurate. It hardly matters.

This system works for me when combined with my broader knowledge of how long my power lasts at different ambient temps. I have found that ambient temp is the largest single factor, followed by fridge load (putting warm beer in it) in determining power consumption and hence need to charge batteries.

No science to this and the techies may have a different view.

My advice would be to get whatever measuring system you can reasonably afford and understand, but you then need to combine it with knowledge of your own system which can only be gained over time. Better to be on the safe side though and charge early (and often) rather than late.
AnswerID: 193172

Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:01

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:01
Thanks Norm

I guess your voltages (eg 11.5V='charge soon') are lower than Robin suggested above because you have a load attached. As you point out, voltage readings are very imprecise, but doesn't matter once you 'learn' your battery/load setup, and get an idea of where 'full', 'half-full' and 'charge now!' occur.

Cheers, Max
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Reply By: Member - Hughesy (SA) - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 18:41

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 18:41
Max that is exactly why the fridges with low voltage cut outs will cut out and then start up again say an hour later (for a short period) ......cause the voltage has "recovered" a little.
AnswerID: 193189

Follow Up By: maxhugen - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:13

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:13
Hi Hughsey

From the 'crash course' I've done in batteries over the last week or two, I think you would see only a short recovery time on a cranking battery, but possibly quite a long time with the deep-cycle batteries, due to their different construction and discharge/recharge time frames.

As an AGM deep-cycle battery can recharge relatively rapidly, it may display the 'recovery' characteristics of a 'cranking' battery.

Actually, the two reasons I'm prepared to spend a bit more on an AGM is:

1. They can recharge faster, whereas most deep-cycle batteries take a long time, which isn't very practical for me.

2. When not in use, they discharge quite slowly, around 1-3% per month, and then will readily recharge after quite some time out of service. Since I wouldn't remember to recharge a wet cell battery 'every 90 days', and so most likely bugger up the battery, this is an important feature for me - and no doubt save me $$$.

Cheers, Max
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Reply By: Richard & Leonie - Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 21:28

Wednesday, Sep 06, 2006 at 21:28
Thanks guys. A good question and useful answers. I have taken copies and will keep them in the car to refer too.
AnswerID: 193224

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 01:10

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 01:10
The chart on Wind&Sun is one of the most practical references to have. This Site also has a lot of other useful information on battery matters.

Scroll down towards the bottom (state of charge), cut and paste the chart into MS Word, or similar.
Print it on a colour printer, trim and laminate it and keep it in some handy place in your vehicle. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to understand it. Hell, I use it all the time as a few of the grey cells go walk about now and again:-)))

Bill


I'm diagonally parked in a parallel Universe!

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AnswerID: 193242

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:15

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:15
. . . but read the bold print "Here are NO-LOAD typical voltages vs state of charge". "These voltages are for batteries that have been at rest for 3 hours or more."

In the case of a wetcell deepcycle, not for 12 hours.

If you use these voltages while the battery is discharging you will be stopping discharge before you need to.

If you use these voltages with an AGM battery you will be stopping discharge before you need to. AGMs start at 13.0 volts.

I am improving the table of voltage vs capacity while discharging at various currents.

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Follow Up By: Member - Pesty (SA) - Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:41

Thursday, Sep 07, 2006 at 09:41
Hi Bill
I also use a similar chart from Collyn Rivers, and it works for me.
I have tried to apply the "KISS" factor to my system.
I use 90 a/h, 730cca sealed lead acid calcium batterys, 2 in the cruiser hard wired together, and 1 in the camper through an anderson plug. They are all identical and the 2 in the cruiser are both the same age.
My power needs are constant as I run a 110 L waeco fridge/freezer 24/7 and so have to be mindfull of it every day. The vehicle is used almost every day of the year, some days for 1 hr and others for 15 hrs.
I have a large LED digital volt meter readout built into the dash, directly wired to the battery's, so at anytime that I am in or walk past the vehicle I can see at a glance what the state of the battery's is.
I have a 6amp 3 stage jaycar charger hard wired into the system and I plug this in most nights in the summer and when I dont do many k's during the winter so that I start each day with around 13 volts so no matter where i am or what im doing it will see out 24 - 36 hrs plus, ok.
My fridge cuts out at about 11.5 volts and at this level the deisel cruiser will still start with so much capacity.
I know this isnt the best system, but its simle and it works, and if i get 2 years from the battery's I will be happy and will turf them for a pair of new ones and at $ 140 each are cheap compared to some others available.
I am going to upgrade to a 12 or 15 amp 3 stage charger because when camped for a few days and having to top the batteries up with the genny, it will charge faster so I dont have to run the genny as much. I also have all 3 batteries connected together while in camp.

Cheers Pesty
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