Return from Cape York trip.

Submitted: Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 19:48
ThreadID: 37553 Views:8432 Replies:4 FollowUps:8
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Hi everyone,

Returned yesterday from the trip to the Cape in the Jackaroo towing the Camp/o/Matic camper trailer.

Vehicle mods/equipment:
Snorkel, Rancho Torsion bars, Rancho +40mm rear springs, Rancho RS5000 Shockers (done 40000k before the trip) Firestone Coil-Rite air bags in rear running 25psi, 265/75 LT Pirelli Scorpions running 40psi on bitumen and 30psi on the gravel/corrugated bits (a bit bigger than the standard 265/70 tyres), handheld CB UHF radio, EVA-Kool Fridge 50litre, Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller, AGM battery in car, 100AH and 1000CCA rated, Redarc dual battery controller feeding the same spec battery in the camper via Anderson plug and 8mm cable.

Had a fantastic time away from the mobile phones and traffic lights!

Melbourne to Cairns was fairly mundane travelling, but stayed in a few nice parks along the way.

Left Cairns for Cooktown via the Daintree and the Bloomfield track. There's a pretty steep hill heading north which goes on for ever - the first time I've ever had the Jack flat to the floor wondering if I'd have to stop and use low range, but we made it in high range. Going down didn't seem as steep. Overnight at the Lion's Den was very pleasant.

Three days in Cooktown was planned so we could see everything, but one day is enough! Couldn't fish because of the severe winds while we were there.

Thought we might stay overnight in Lakefield but the 6 mile waterhole camp areas had had fire through some of them and it was far from lush and inviting, so we travelled through from Cooktown to Musgrave for an overnight.

Here I discovered a flat left hand air bag so we decided to head for Weipa next day for a mechanical check to see if the line had popped out or whatever. We heard from some other travellers that the road ahead was so bad it was almost impassable, so we set off with a little trepidation. The road to Coen was under repair and had many dips, some of which will catch your attention if you are going a bit hot on the newly graded road, but from there to Weipa it was a struggle to keep under 100k. The few corners occasionally saw the trailer misaligned with the car for a bit of a puckering experience - phew - slow down a bit !!!

A few days at Weipa for a dust flush and a check of the air bag revealed the brass fitting in the top had un-vulcanised itself from the bag, rendering the device unrepairable. There seemed to be no ill effect on the handling of the car/trailer from only having one inflated, so the decision was to carry on with one still inflated.

Next stop was to be Bramwell Homestead via the Batavia Downs road, and a dire warning that the first crossing on the shortcut road was impassable to anything but a bulldozer saw us head that way anyway. The crossing was easy, demonstrating again that perceptions of tough conditions vary dramatically. A great night at Bramwell, including spotting the first of the Cane Toad menace - I killed a whopper in the afternoon, and when chatting with Bob under the mango tree revealed that Dettol kills them we went on a hunt with torches and dettol sprayer and wiped out probably 100 of the pests. They sure don't like Dettol!!

Next morning it was off to Bramwell Roadhouse for a fuel top-up and the start of the "business end" of the trip - the Old Telegraph Track, unimproved section. A young Victorian worker at the roadhouse told us we would get through with the campers no problems (except maybe Gunshot) as the terrain was not going to phase us too much because we are used to the Vic high country.

Next camp was at Elliot Falls after having absolutely no problems with any of the track so far, and we checkened out of Gunshot. We helped a Prado with 3 people,no snorkel, too much luggage, and a camper trailer through the worst crossings. They then bypassed the northern section of the track!

Elliot falls was fantastic but next day it was off to do the nothern track section. This was a bit tougher than the previous bit, but posed no problems for me until Nolan's Brook, where I got bogged in the sand on the exit. A quick tow and a bit (lot) of water inside and I was on the northen exit with a dryout beginning. While I was drying stuff, an 80 serise with 4" lift, 35s, twin diff locks got bogged in the same place and had to be towed out, easing my embarrasment somewhat!

After an overnight camp at the old Jardine crossing site we headed for Punsand Bay for our next camp. We stayed here a week or so and had a great relaxing time, including some fishing time. Took all the carpets out of the Jack and hung them out to dry while here.

The trip back from here was basically non-sightseeing and a run to Bramwell, Musgrave, and Cairns down the bypass roads.

For those doing the trip in a fuel injected petrol like the Jackaroo, take several spare fuel filters and at least 4 litres of metho, as somewhere (I suspect Bramwell Roadhouse, Bamaga, and the Jardine crossing fuel station) had contaminated petrol - I drained lots of water and an oily reddish substance out of the tank and filter and it wouldn't mix with metho. What it did do was block the in-tank and external fuel filters repeatedly causing a misfire bad enough to stop the engine.

Nothing fell off or broke on the Jackaroo or the trailer, I had zero battery problems, the Fridge was fantastic - ran it for 4 days at Glasshouse mountains without starting the car and there was plenty of battery life left, the tyres were pretty good on all surfaces but lacked grip in wet sand.

We met many friendly people along the way and had a great time wherever we stopped.

As for the scenery, there are prettier places in Aus but the Cape trip was always about the trip and not the destination.
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Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 20:05

Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 20:05
Great report and good reading.
I totally agree with you on the perceptions of others on road conditions. On our recent Kimberley, NT and Gulf trip on at leat 3 occasions we were told roads were impassable, only to find them much better than many others we had travelled.

I'm heading for the Cape next May for an extended trip. Hope we have as good a run and as much fun as you seem to have had.

Did you do any fishing? I'm planning on taking the tinnie on top of the Hilux when we go.
AnswerID: 193592

Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 21:08

Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 21:08
Hi Norm,

We did some fishing at the old sawmill site a few ks from Punsand, and several really nice trevalley were caught, but not by me! Once our angling star had caught 2, we went back for a few beers. The fillets fed 8 people and were absolutely delicious just pan fried in butter&olive oil (I take the credit for the cooking!). Beautiful crispy brown and a sprinkle of salt - heaven. We bought chips for $8 from the resort's kitchen to go with it and they were perfect. While fishing we saw huge schools of bait fish, and spanish mackerel jumping vertically out of the water.

That was the only real fishing time we had - we tended to be far too relaxed to get off our butts.

With a boat, you will have much more success with the fishing - Weipa will see you catching salmon, trevalley and probably heaps of other stuff, you will be able to get after the Barramundi at lakefield National Park, and at Punsand you can do what the locals do - Three of the local residents (not aboriginals) took a tinny back and forth along the beach at night and speared crays, trevalley, and other stuff. When the owners Chris & John asked the guys where they were going to keep it all, they said "your fridge", but there was no room in the resort fridge so the next night there was a luau for all the campers! We weren't there for that but you could be the next supplier!

There are plenty of beach launching places available where the fishing would be just as good, and you could fish the Jardine and other rivers as well. At the ferry crossing there's an old concrete ramp beside the ramp that's in use and you could launch there as well. or at the site of the old crossing you can launch the tinnie there. We didn't see any crocodiles at all but there were a few snakes here and there.

I thought about getting a tinnie to take, and putting it on the Campomatic's boat rack, but my travelling companion is about 130kg and I'm 83kg so It would have needed to be a good sized one making it hard to hand launch, especially as my heavyweight friend is also exercise allergic.......
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FollowupID: 451510

Follow Up By: Muddies Doe(Trippn) - Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 21:35

Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 21:35
Hi Gerhardp1

Good report, I enjoyed it.

Hi Norm

Unless you are going to make the time and effort to enjoy the boat and intend to put the boat in, then don't take it. Many people we saw in 2002 & 2004 had tinny's and they either didn't bother with them or gave up putting them in. Such a waste taking them all that way and then not use them. Reason was mainly - no fish at the time or the wind was blowing in the wrong direction - but who's to say if you take yours up that the fish aren't plentiful. Wiepa is generally one place for good fishing even from the shoreline.

Hope you decide wisely and you catch some fish.

Cya
:)
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Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 21:59

Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 21:59
We are prepared to be away for about 12 weeks to do the Cape and Eastern Gulf (from Gold Coast). The wind will be right and the fish will be biting somewhere in that time I hope.

Having just come back from the Kimberley, NT and Western Gulf, I swore I'd never go back to some of that country without the boat either.
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Follow Up By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 22:18

Friday, Sep 08, 2006 at 22:18
If you want to see a great days fishing, check out Day 10 from our recent Cape trip.

If you want to see a 10yo catch his first fish - bigger than anything his old man has EVER caught - check out Day 21 ;-)

Site Link

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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Saturday, Sep 09, 2006 at 10:50

Saturday, Sep 09, 2006 at 10:50
Hi Ivan,

Had a good read of your site- enjoyed it a lot. It was interesting to see quite a few variations in the crossing photos from what we had, and yet some crossings had the same water depth as when you passed a month earlier. The "easy" Gunshot crossing on the left appears to be easier than when we took a look, probably because it took a heap of traffic between our trips, including all the Chamberlain tractors on their jaunt to the tip.

The anecdotal tales of woe we heard about on the trip were

100 series diffs - regular fodder for the repair shops. This is not a new problem, as apparently the diff is a Corolla unit. It's now infecting Troopies and Hiluxes as well, and will be a good money spinner for Toyota well into the future.
100 series radiators - no genuine ones left in Aus, problem is fan too close and any crossing will pull it onto the ribs. Solution may be to invent a clamp that stops the fan altogether when entering water.
100 and 80 series - chassis cracks requiring welding. We spoke to a young guy at Weipa (a welder) who decided to get a bit of work to boost funds, and spent his first 2 weeks at Weipa Welding doing the above repairs.
Rodeos losing 4WD - the electronic clutch on the front axle was getting wet from the crossings, and not engaging. Result - no 4WD in high or low range.
Nissans - no issues this year, but last year the clutches were regular fodder, couldn't handle the strain of exiting creeks when a bit of water was on the plates.

Personal experience tales of woe -

Jackaroo (Monterey with TOD transfer case) - water in passenger side cabin at Nolan's Brook, sloshed over to drivers side on towing out, and the TOD computer under the drivers seat took a bath. A few k's up the track and the dash light started flashing, and caused no 4WD in high and low due to the front axle clutch not being controlled properly from the wet computer. A dryout at the old Jardine crossing saw all functions restored. Mental note: must work out how to seal that computer - I had assumed it would be waterproof.

Friends 60 series with 350 Chev and Turbo 700 auto - both engine mounts broken, also transmission mount under transfer case broken. Just as well we didn't take it down Gunshot, or the whole engine would probably have shot forward through the radiator. New Pioneer Camper trailer - one stuffed shocker, leaking oil, both interior lights fallen apart and not working.

Friend in 100 series on the Vietnam Vets reunion trip. Towing camper, bolt holding panhard rod broke, leaving the rear axle to do its own thing independantly from the body. He was really bleep as he was travelling slowly. He was in a different convoy to us and we passed them in Lakefield Park, so I can verify that they were only poodling along. Our paths crossed first at Cooktown, then at Lakefield (Old Laura), again at Punsand where we heard of the breakage.

Witnessed just on leaving Marlboro roadhouse on return journey

Prado doing an estimated 160+ in a giant tank-slapper coming towards me on the road shoulder - first seen with front pointing away from me, then towards me, then (I'm bleep ting myself now) away again as it went past me, still somehow on the shoulder, still doing over 100k I kook in the mirror and see his brake lights come on but it doesn't slow down because the wheels are still more in the air than on the road. It does another couple of slaps and still hasn't rolled and the last I see is cars behind me swerving all over the shop and the Prado turns sharp left and into the scrub. Still didn't see it roll and I'm now too far away.

Tales of woe heard first hand from the victims -

Prado doing 65k (very insistent from the driver that he was going no faster) rolled on the bypass heading south about 13k from Bramwell Station. Bob at the homestead, who recovered the vehicle, figured they were going mucho quicker.

Young couple in a Challenger ripped out their gearbox on a stump in the middle pf the road fairly close to where the Prado rolled. The repairer at Weipa where it finished up said something like " How the hell did you do that - there's not a mark on the front crossmembers but the gearbox is smashed"

I'm sure there are many more tales and truths experienced by others who have done this mighty trip.

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Follow Up By: draff - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 09:31

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 09:31
Hi Norm,

We also did the Cape this year and if you are taking a tinny i would thoroghly recommend heading to Viryla point on the west coast. Its a 10km beach run (best done at low tide) and then a great camp under the sheoaks. You can launch tinnys into the river and there is fantastic fishing there.

Enjoy.

Draff
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Reply By: Willem - Saturday, Sep 09, 2006 at 20:35

Saturday, Sep 09, 2006 at 20:35
Hi Gerhard

Good report and well written.

The Cape is one place I havent been to yet, so it remains there on the list for sometime in the future. Been as far as Cooktown along the same route you took. I slipped the old G60 Datto into low range though climbing those Bloomfield hills as it had been raining and was a tad slippery

Seems like lots of travellers are still driving too fast. When will they ever learn? We copped a stone the size of a fist on the windscreen thrown up by LC ute hiking along at estimated speed over 100kmh north of Newman WA. The missus didnt see much out of the front of the truck for the rest of the trip. I had to silicon the bust as small slivers of glass were coming loose.

Corrugations on the Anne Beadell took its toll on some parts of the GQ but these have only shown up after we had arrived home.

We too had a great 8 weeks away and saw lots of country and very few travellers in the remote areas.

Cheers
AnswerID: 193721

Reply By: 100 Series - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:01

Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:01
Sounds like you did the same trip as me. We just got back to Brissy after the Cape trip.

I had no mechanical problems in the 100 series std diesel towing an Outback camper trailer.

I got through Nolan's brook no problems towing the trailer (I was starting to loose traction on the exit though), but it did claim my mate in his Hilux and he filled up with water too. The only thing I can put it down to (me getting through towing the camper and my mate getting stuck) is the extra weight of the cruiser helping with traction.

The only problems that I encountered were;

1. some minor damage to the rear of camper where the tail lights sit from a washout, but this was easy fixed with a sledge hammer and some new lights.

2. The Engel now has an awful rattle(very annoying over the corrugations) coming from the black sealed compressor, but it still works fine but sounds expensive to fix.

3. The bearings on the so called heavy duty engel fridge slide have died and need replacing.

Nolan's brook claimed a few. We spoke to the mehanic in Bamaga who said that there has been 8 in the past month or so that he knows about and has done repairs on. The Jardine River Ferry operatators said there has been a few tos from there as well ($800 callout and $8 a km after that).

Ran into another guy in a brand new 100 seried turbo sahara who did his radiaor and had to get it fixed in Bamaga, 3 week wait and $1700 latter.

There were a lot of idiots on the roads travelling at high speeds as well.
AnswerID: 193895

Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 08:35

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 08:35
That rattle may be an issue with Engels. My travelling companions in the 60 series also have an Engel which does the same thing, so for the trip they bought an Evakool at the same time as I did (very nice price at the Caulfield 4wd show in May.

Another victim of Nolan's brook I know of (an hour before my bogging) was a very new 100 series towing an Ultimate camper. I'd had a chat with the driver at Elliot Falls that morning, and he seemed to me to be a legend in his own lunchbucket. He had taken the outfit down Gunshot, and so was invincible! He bogged in Nolans (as I and it seems quite a few others did) and when the water started coming in he figured he'd fire it up again and try to drive out. 3 ks up the track the engine expired due to a gob full of water - NO SNORKEL!!!!! We saw his at Bamaga the next day being unloaded from the truck. He also copped a towing, etc fee for his trailer. We Last saw the car a few days later on the boat at Seisha heading for Cairns.

I think the problem may be that Toyta dealers close their sale by telling first timers "No worries mate, it's a Toyota - it will go ANYWHERE."
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Follow Up By: 100 Series - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 19:55

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 19:55
I had a snorkel fitted prior to the trip and the Mrs went off because I was spending more $$$$ on the cruiser, but I think it more than paid for it self on the trip. After doing some deep crossings on the trip she was very quite about the snorkel purchase.

Lucky I didn't tell her about the polyairs that were fitted in Cairns the day before we headed off!!!
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Reply By: Richard W (NSW) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 06:52

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 06:52
Nice report.

I did my radiator just before Twin Falls about a month ago. I must have just about got the last one as it was flown into Bamaga the next day.:-)

I was told a fix is to replace the fan with an 80 series fan or tie it off on crossings which is what I did after it was fixed.

I'm trying Toyota for a warranty claim and have a fight on my hands as I got a verbal knockback. I'll will take it all the way as I believe its a design fault like the front diff.

We had a non TD with us which has exactly the same fan/radiator configuration and the only problem he had was the rear diff breather tube came off and he got water in the rear diff.
AnswerID: 194087

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