Solar Regulator to charge batts in CT on the move

Do not attempt to use a Steca solar regulator for what u propose , an error code will flash which tells what u have attempted to do , 1x no longer working regulator NOT covered by warranty due to missuse.

Solar regulators control the charge by shorting out the panel.

You can just imagine what will happen to the regulator when it tries to short out a alternator.

Yes - No warranty.

Can't be done that way, you will cook the solor regulator with to much current and maybe damage the solar cells.

Pirahna do a duel battery system that has an input from a solar reg.

With a 80 watt solor panel correctly aimed at the sun on a really good day you may be lucky to get 20 amps of charge back into you batterys over a 24 hour period, the same as if you ran your engine for half an hour (based on 5 hours on maxium usable sunlight and 4a/h charge rate).

You need to position solar cell at a 32% angle (or there abouts) directly pointing at the sun.

We did this execise with a customer last week.

I would just stay with the gen set / charger and the vehicles alternator.

There is a big misunderstanding about who good solar cells are, they are a very expensive slow way of charging batterys.

regards Richard

Muddy,

To my knowledge the Arrid Twincharge cannot overcharge batteries as it has an inbuilt charge controller.

The Twincharge is a very common method of charging and maintaining batteries in a camper or caravan, via the vehicle alternator and I haven't read or heard of any problems with the units.

Muddy
HAve a look @ this system , works well for me with similar set-up

www.rotronics.com.au/RBT12.4wdP1Unit.htm

regards Mark

Hi Muddy

The solar controller issued has been answered - but why so complex? - just run wires from battery to trailer as you suggest - it is nearly impossible to overcharge the trailer batteries anyway.

Robin Miller

you want this

www.sterling-power.com/htm/btb.htm

company is a pain to deal with ... I was looking at one of these
but their policy (shipping etc is not acceptable to me ) .. so
I went for a Balmar alternator with an external regulator charger
(Maxcharge) .. Alternator does 160 AMP and I run that as my second
alternator .. the main one is a 120Amp powering the vehicle guts
and charge the two cranking batteries ...

good luck
gmd

It can be done but only certain types of regulators can do it (the only one I know of is the Plasmatronic series). You need to setup current limiting in the regulator so it does not draw anymore than below its maximum rated amperage from the source (say 50% to be safe). I wanted to try from the alternator but could not justify the price of the PL20 at the time. The other problem is voltage drop as a Solar regulator ideally needs 15V or more to effectively charge your batteries.

I used to charge my batteries by connecting my power supply (which has adjustable voltage and current) to my solar regulator and setting for 18V and 10A (which it could supply continuously). The regulator then controls this and chargers the batteries accordingly. This was my alternative to a 240V 3 stage charger (which I now have so abondoned the idea). I do not have a Plasmatronic regulator thus the need to use a power supply with current limiting.

You can read my endeavours here or another persons here.

PLEASE NOTE - this worked for me so is my experience only. Don't try these things unless you are completely confident that you will not blow anything up or harm yourself in the process.

Regards
David

Hi Muddy,

The other option you have is to buy an appropriately sized inverter and run this from the power supplied by the vehicle. Connect your 240V 3 stage smart charger to this and then you have what you are asking in the top post. I know Aussie Swag Campers used to have this method of charging but not sure about now.

Regards
David

I just run a feed straight from the main batt ( thru a 40A relay, and fuse of course,) to the CT and charge 4x 35ah batts ( AGM's )

If I'm gonna be driving for say 6hrs I might only give them 2hrs of charge if they were already fairly full ( keep an eye on the voltage before you leave )

If they were fairly flat, then I'd give them 6hrs ( or thereabouts )

When I'm home or near power I'll give them a good charge with the 3 stage, but when travelling ( usually 4 to 6 days ) keeping them at a reasonable state of charge ( say 12.5V ) is all I need to keep the fridge going.

I run an Arrid twin charge in my Trayon for 2 x 120AmHr Fullriver AGM's for the past 2 yaers with no problems and no sign of overcharging. When buying the twin charge you need to specify for wet or gel cells as the float votage is different.

Ron