OT – Welders

Submitted: Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 11:05
ThreadID: 49008 Views:6844 Replies:11 FollowUps:36
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Hi all

I want to do some welding. Don’t have much experience though (made my 4b steel frame _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx with a stick welder) – looking to buy a small MIG welder.

People have warned me about cheap welders. Don’t really want to pay more than $500 though. I will just be doing the odd job using 1 – 3mm thick steel. Would like to do aluminium welding too. Saw this welder on ebay (ad says it does stainless, aluminium, steel).

150amp MIG WELDER

Any thoughts?

If not this, then what? What amps etc?

thanks in anticipation, JD
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Reply By: Member No 1- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 11:41

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 11:41
if you want to weld ally you will need gas
thats the expensive bit!

i beleive that if one wants to do ally get one with grunt
150A sounds a bit light-on for anything but light gauge material...however i do stand to be corrected
AnswerID: 258842

Reply By: RosscoH - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 11:49

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 11:49
Hi JD,
Looks and sounds like a good little unit, don't be fooled by the gas bottle, it won't last very long and then you will have to hire one from the likes of BOC or LINDYGAS, that will cost over $100.00 a year. If you want to weld aluminiun and steel with gas you will need straight argon for aluminium and argosheild 50 for steel. If you can get away with doing all your welding Gasless that would be a much cheaper option.

Cheers RosscoH
AnswerID: 258843

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:12

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:12
Gasless is a good choice it's one thing we are looking at at the moment.

The only down side is gasless wire has a higher penetration temp that can be good for something and worse for others.

The flux in the wire increases the welding temp so on a smaller machine you can weld thicker material but the down side is you lose the welding capabilities on thinner material.

Gasless welding has come along way in the last 3 years and soon nobody will use gas machines for general welding.

The wire is about 40% dearer than standard wire but you save on the gas bottle refill and rental.

BOC are trying to convince us at the monent to go gasless.

Regards Richard
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Reply By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:01

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:01
We use a mixture of welders in our fabrication side ranging from 150 amp to 325 amps.

The 150's we have are WIA 150S, this size welder is ideal for onsite work and small jobs upto about 8mm thick material.

These welders originaly had 15 amp plugs but have been replaced with 10 amp plugs now only because on site 10 amp plugs are common and our gensets even the 10kva one has 10 amps sockets.

There are many good welders for under $1000 but try and stay away from the cheap ones as parts may not be avaliable in the future for repair or replacement and there are non or less service agents.

Try and get one from a large company like BOC etc. you will have more surport in the future.

The other thing is with small welders it is harder to weld thin material mainly because they have got limited low power settings.

Our 150's have 6 power settings and our 325's have 24 settings allowing for finer adjustment.

With the 150 the thinest we weld is around 1.6 mm material and with the 325 amp machines around .6mm material.

It doesn't mean you can't weld thin material it's just harder.

If you are after a welder PM me and I will see what we can do as we have a bit of buying power.......you can pay cash to them direct and get it at our pricing.

Try secondhand for a WIA, Lincoln or CIG welder, sometimes you can get a 180 to 200 amp machine for high hundreds.

I have a customer who is selling a 200 amp Automig.

Welding alluminium you need a higher power mig welder due to the heat you have to generate first when forming the welding puddle, most cheap migs are a 2 roller system on the wire feed and for alluminiun a 4 roller feed is better.

When welding alloy you will have to use a differant gas and have a differant liner for the gun.

Most people have a mig welder set up for alluminium and a mig welder for steel.

All ours are set up for steel, we also have tig welds for alluminium, stainless and even steel.

Regards Richard
AnswerID: 258846

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:30

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:30
Forgot to add, welding ally with this machine is possable.

Being a DC only machine (all mig welder are) limits you to thicker material like 4mm and above but this machine will not have the power or duty cycle to weld much bigger or for longer welds.

Most people who make bull bars and allly boats us DC mig welder due to the ease of welding.

The other option is a single or duel pulse DC mig welder, with this type of machine you will be able to weld everything.

They cost from $5000 up.

Most people welding ally will use a AC/DC square wave tig set to AC, AC is used because it has a hot and cold side to the sine wave, when welding ally with a tig you will get a hot side that penertrates the allyl and a cold side that cools the alloy at about 20 to 60 times a second.

This stops the ally seperation from other additive in it like silicon etc and collapsing on it self.

Well something like that.

Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520276

Follow Up By: Willem - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:51

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:51
Thanks for all that good info Richard. I am just about to embark on a similar project doing some alterations to the trailer and other small jobs around the house.

I have always had mates with welders and moola or slabs changed hands for jobs done. Now I want to do it myself. Did a stick welding copurse some years ago so will be rusty to start with but with all your info I should be way ahead

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 14:03

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 14:03
Willem, stick welding...... tell me more?

Only kidding it's still widly used today and it has it's applications.

Our tigs can also be used as stick welders but we don't stick weld here.

I hate it when someone lays down a fantastic weld using stick you would not know how frustrated I get.

When we had stick and mig we always used the mig more then the stick and now we have mig and tig we use the tig more......started looking at a dual pulse mig so if we get one the tig will not be used anymore, funny how things change.

Yeah there is a lot more to welding then most people think.

Regards Richard



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Follow Up By: Member - jdwynn (SA) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:28

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:28
Thanks for heaps of useful info Richard.
Think I'll forget aluminium for now. Will look for a secondhand unit that can do gasless and if no luck will see about buying a unit through you. thanks again JD
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 07:35

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 07:35
"These welders originaly had 15 amp plugs"

naughty naughty..i think this is against OHWS...not to mention wiring rules

&
"Forgot to add, welding ally with this machine is possable" which machine you talking about Richard?
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Follow Up By: Member - jdwynn (SA) - Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 08:13

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 08:13
MN1, you just reminded me of that well known caravanners trick (which work on 15A) - file down the wide 15A spade bit on the male end of the extension cord so you can use it on 15A or 10A (i.e. at home to get fridge running before you go away). To my knowledge, most caravanners do it, well as soon as they know about it anyway. Obviously need to exercise a bit of care when running off 10A supply. Cheers JD
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 09:10

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 09:10
JD
beware, the practice is illegal
any faults or injuries to others by the persons actions will or at least should result in legal action...

it, the large earth pin is there for a reason...a bloody good earth!
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Follow Up By: Member - Luke (SA) - Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 21:33

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 21:33
Or cut out the female earth slot bigger to fit the bigger pin :)
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Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 23:12

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 23:12
Te earth plug is bigger so the wont fit into 10 amp sockets.

If we run the welder on the second to last setting it's fine but running it flat out will trip the curcuit.

Removing the plug and replacing it with a 10 amp plug has no effect on OH&S we checked before we did it and it has been saftey tagged.

Same thing if you had 2 x 2000 fan heaters connected on a 10 amp supply, they would only trip the curcuit.

Our 10 Kva genset has 3 x 10 amp GPO's fitted even thou it can dish out 14 amps per outlet.

When we asked about it, the response we got was aslong as the GPO has protection that does not exceed the rating of the GPO or cable rating it is fine, all that will happen if the curcuit will trip out.

A few of the large hire companys do it.

Interesting question.

Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520788

Follow Up By: Member No 1- Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 08:34

Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 08:34
Richard
If the machine came with a 15amp socket it suggest to me that the unit needs a 15amp plug...why else would they fit it?...it must draw excessive curruent for a stadard outlet some thing you have already indicated "but running it flat out will trip the curcuit"...and that also tells me it should be on a outlet that is rated to 15amp!!...and if so it is against the law (Wiring Rules) and therefore contravenes OHWS policies!!

only one way to find out...what is maximum current draw of said machine running flat out????
assuming the name tag is correct it should be on there somewhere.

If hire co's are doing that they too are acting illegally..(assuming the unit is rated in excess of 10amps)
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Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 21:11

Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 21:11
Yeah I know were you are comming from, might have to check tommorw.

These welders were converted abour 9 years ago so I might have to review the law

Thet get checked every 12 mths and tagged.

I'll let you know the outcome.

Regards Richard
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Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 21:21

Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 21:21
Just found a operating manual, it's got me stuffed!

Rated Primary Current 12amps
Max Primary Demand 28amps
Recommended Fuse 25amps,

It's got a note refering to Aust standards AS3000 clause 2.4.3.4.

"Aust Standards allow the circuit breaker or fuse supplying a welder to be rated at up to twice the rated primary current of the welder"

There may be some loop hole in it somewhere.

I always thought you could no go much bigger then the plug/wiring.



Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520968

Reply By: Member - Toytruck (WA) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:36

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 12:36
Just to add to some of the topics above,
to weld ally you will need a good hand piece. Some and I mean some, of the cheaper migs have cheap hand pieces which will not feed the softer ally wire. A good hand piece with good feed tubes are required to feed the softer wire.

Toytruck
AnswerID: 258850

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 14:14

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 14:14
Another ally welder.

just some more usless information when welding steel or stainless with a mig you always push into the area to be welded because the wire is stronger and you want heat generated into the pre weld area of metal .

On ally you always pull away from the weld because of the softer wire and burn back plus you want to cool the weld down after welding.

I think

Regards Richard

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FollowupID: 520291

Reply By: Peter 2 - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 16:38

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 16:38
I've dealt with the seller and he is very good to deal with, if you are in Sydney he is happy to sell direct and you can pick up from him.
I've bought a secondhand Migomag that has 140 amp capacity years ago and it has served me well, I use gas but a G size bottle lasts me for about 5 years!
I've done plenty of trailer work and other repairs and it has enough grunt for all but the biggest stuff. Haven't used the stick since I bought the mig, also have the other core and wire for ally but as a mate welds ally all the time haven't bothered.
That SIP welder will probably be ok for handyman use and parts are freely available as I've seen plenty for sale at tool places.
AnswerID: 258865

Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:47

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:47
Hi Peter

Whats the rent on a "G" size bottle now a days, thats alway been my hold back, same as a oxy set, gas may last years, but don't you still have to pay rent?

Regards

Richard
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FollowupID: 520355

Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 22:22

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 22:22
Richard I don't know as I don't rent it, just swap it for a full one and pay for the gas ;-))
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Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 22:31

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 22:31
That's Good Peter,

I was under the impression that you payed rent on the bottles Form BOC Gases, as we do at work..

Will have to look into it , Cheers
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Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 22:39

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 22:39
woops no said BOC Gases... Sorry
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FollowupID: 520362

Follow Up By: Member No 1- Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 13:04

Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 13:04
BOC do charge rent for ALL cylinders
you cant own them...the rent covers testing and dating etc
if you do it strictly by the way BOC sells
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FollowupID: 520396

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 23:29

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 23:29
Hello Member No.1, the machine I was talking about when refering to welding ally was the one on Ebay.

As you said in your first post about being a bit small, I agree with you it may be alittle small for welding ally due to the duty cycle.

When welding 8mm mild steel with our small 150 WIA migs after about 4 to 5 welds about 3 inches long they start dropping of power due to there duty cycle, ally takes alot more heat and power so I would expect a significant drop.

most people who weld ally with DC migs use 200 plus amp machines.

Regards Richard


P.S...If I can watch you redo the welds, I'll supply the beer and peanuts.
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FollowupID: 520791

Follow Up By: Member No 1- Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 07:30

Wednesday, Aug 29, 2007 at 07:30
as your bringing the beer i wil make sure they're all buggered
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Reply By: Outnabout David (SA) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 19:03

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 19:03
JD,

I recently went through the excercise and bought a 165ap Gas/gasless CIG unit through BOC.

Have welded .6mm tin up to some fairly thick stuff.
Never really welded before but had stick welder and always burnt holes in everything.

The Mig is pretty easier to use and adjust the wire speed to get a good weld.

I usually practise on some offcuts of the same material and setup on that before welding what I really want to.

Haven't used it with gas because of the rental. I already have OXy and pay rental on that and that is dear enough.

Decised as you need special ally wire and special gas for allouminium or stainless if I ever want these metals done I will take to an expert.
AnswerID: 258883

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 19:29

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 19:29
David thats a good size welder for small general work, what is the weld like with gasless wire, does it splatter much and does the weld look good.

Gasless is also better for outside welding or in windy enviroments.

How many power settings do you have?

Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520333

Follow Up By: Outnabout David (SA) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 19:45

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 19:45
Richard,

it spatters just a little bit but that is why I have a practice run. With fine adjusting the wire speed etc it seems to not spatter anymore than the gas ones at work.

There are three settings but what I can determine is that the wire speed, what you are welding and how far away you hold the wire determines the amperage it uses. I tend to use setting one for smll guage steel, middle for lightweight steel, and third setting for say 3mm and upwards.

I do a lot of welding in open air or wind. Usually have the shed door open for better light and that was one of the reasons also for sticking o gasless at this stage.

Also spent the extra bickies and bought a self dimming welding mask. Wow how good are they.
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FollowupID: 520335

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 20:30

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 20:30
Auto welding helmets are the best ivention for welders yet, we use Speedglass brand, to pricey for around the house thou.

What you want to do is try and go back to the old type...you'll think how can anyone weld with one of these.

You might also want to look at a welding jacket, they cost about $30.00 and a good par of welding gloves (Get some expensive one they will set you back about $12.00....why are they so cheap?)

Was doing some tig welding on some stainless with one of the guys who work for use and we could smell aburning plastic smell......do you think we could find what was burning.....well 3 hours later got home and went and to take the mobile phone out of my right hand top pocket in my shirt and guess what do you think I could get the phone out, it melted to my shirt.......lucky it was there...my nipple was on the other side of the phone so if it wasn't the phone it would of been my nipple.

Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520342

Follow Up By: Member - jdwynn (SA) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:32

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:32
Had to laugh David,
"had stick welder and always burnt holes in everything" - thought you must have seen me welding! JD
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FollowupID: 520353

Follow Up By: Member No 1- Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 12:58

Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 12:58
"had stick welder and always burnt holes in everything" i still do..have a stick welder that is...but dont burn holes anymore..well not as many anyway...i use stainless rods...they are so much easier to weld with

Am now waiting for Richard to reply and make me worry....bet he going to say " all your welds are going to break apart....will that happen Richard? or if i have good penetration will they be ok or is penetration harder or easier to achieve using stainless

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FollowupID: 520395

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 14:56

Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 14:56
Member No 1, guess what it's not ideal to weld mild steel with stainless but it can be done.

When welding mild steel with stainless rods you lose the propertys of the stainless like corrosion resistance (it becomes diluted), you can over come this by treating welded areas after welding to obtain some of the properties or the other way to do it right is to weld a layer of Hi-Chrome-Nickelthe (309 something something from memory) this acts as a barrier and helps to keep the properties of the stainless.

You may see after you welded and left it for a few days the stailess weld will start to rust..what is happening is the ferite or iron in the mild steel has come to the surface causing rust to appear, it doesn't mean the whole weld will rust.

If the stainless properties aren't a concern then just keep on doing what you are doing.

As a rule of thumb it pays to weld the base metal with a filler of the same properties.

I have welded cast iron on a drill press with a mig, but they say it does not work....the correct way if to pre heat and use a bronze filler rod but it's lasted the last 9 years.

I have seen alluminiun welded to mild steel.....don't ask me how they did it...I did ge told.

It all depeds if you need a penertrating weld or a adhesive weld like brazing.

To do weld correctly you have to be part chemist, part scientist, part machine and part slave.

Don't think I know it all about welding, if we have to weld something out of the norm we refer to books with stuff like pre heating, pre treatment, welding technique, and after weld treatments.

This why there are specilised welders who only do one thing and it does not mean the are good at anything else.

Next week we will tak about grain growth and carbonising....can't wait.



Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520405

Follow Up By: awill4x4 - Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 18:27

Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 18:27
Richard, as a professional Tig welder of many years I would respectfully suggest you quit posting on welding while you're ahead.
Unless of course you would like to post your secret solution of welding aluminium to steel I'll go you halves and we'll make millions.
Regards Andrew.
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 07:23

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 07:23
"If the stainless properties aren't a concern then just keep on doing what you are doing" ...thats what i wanted to hear...thanks....but one last question..is it as good as using good standard rods?...assumes i can weld
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Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 18:29

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 18:29
As I said in me post

"I have seen alluminiun welded to mild steel.....don't ask me how they did it...I did ge told."

ROH rims in Adealide had some wheels out in the market that had a alluminium centre welded to steel outs.

I would not have any idea how they did it.

Just did a quick search on Google, check out this link, it's done by cold metal transfer.

http://www.manufacturingtalk.com/news/tps/tps126.html

Regards Richard

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FollowupID: 520538

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 19:14

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 19:14
Sorry Menber No 1, I missed you in my pervious post.

Welding mild steel with stainless wire ...don't know as it is something we would not do.

I would not like to do it on a heavy structual piece, on smaller thing it should be OK I Think.

If you want to be sure you could grind every weld you have EVER done with the stainless and re do it I supose.....I'll come and watch..LOL.

I don't see an issue withit but then again Im not an expert! or as some others would put it I am.

Regards Richard

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FollowupID: 520545

Follow Up By: awill4x4 - Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 23:05

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 23:05
Richard, CMT welding is a process that has been hyped up as a way of welding aluminium to steel but what hasn't been accurately reported is that the steel has to be zinc/galvanised coated and the bonding process is actually between the galvanic coating and the aluminium not the steel parent metal.
Some good info CMT welding from the American Welding Society one of my favourite sites for welding info.
Regards Andrew.

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Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 23:25

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 23:25
Yeah looks like we are to late to make millions doesn't it.

I saw it about 8 years ago at ROH they made some mags that had a steel chrome outer and painted alluminium centre, they look the ducks guts.

Don't know how they do the ships thou.

So it's more of an adhesion process the a fusion weld.

Have you ever tiged cooper because Im try to find the filler rod and electrode............I think the filler is called C7.

Ues to follow a yahoo group but the spamers got to it and now all you see is stuff about sex and buy this.

Welding is a funny topic so many people do it but don't understand the theory....thank god for books and the net.

Regards Richard







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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 07:26

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 07:26
"I'll come and watch..LOL"..Oh no you wont...not if i'm using ordinary rods you wont
your not going to laugh your guts out peering at my welds

thats why I use stainless, so much easier to weld with...and as a big bonus, no where near as much spoggy bleep e i get with ordinary rods
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 07:43

Tuesday, Aug 28, 2007 at 07:43
Davids BLEEPING dictionary is getting better
it should read crappy...or word to that effect
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FollowupID: 520620

Reply By: Member - jdwynn (SA) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:33

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:33
thanks a heap everyone.
terrific informative responses.
Regards
JD
AnswerID: 258904

Reply By: Member - Brian H (QLD) - Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:53

Saturday, Aug 25, 2007 at 21:53
Have to agree .... timely topic as I'm also looking at a welder was considering a mig but no idea which to look at.

I also will only use it for odd jobs that always seem to crop up around this place. Of course building my boat trailer would be first on the cards.

Will read over this topic again.

Brian
AnswerID: 258908

Reply By: Member - Mike_L (SA) - Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 17:29

Sunday, Aug 26, 2007 at 17:29
Plenty of good advice from everyone. I'd just like to mention that as far as I know WIA is an Australian company based in Adelaide. They are a little more expensive, but are a true industrial tool and will last you a life time.

I have used their welders for 10+ years. Excellent units right up there with the worlds best.

The 150s would be your pick of the single phase units, I have one of these for site work and use it as a second unit in the workshop as well. (400 amp three phase being the main unit)

So... if the budget stretches past the "Hobby/Home handy man" units please consider supporting an Australian company and Australian jobs.
AnswerID: 258962

Follow Up By: Olcoolone- Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 19:05

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 19:05
Mike, the 150's are good machine except the are heavy and when you have to lug them around on site your come back with arms 3 inches longer..opps 76.2mm longer.....thank god for apprentices.

have heard rumours that the arn't 150 amp machines but around 180 to 190 amps, this is why he have 15 amps plug I surpose.

Regards Richard
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FollowupID: 520541

Reply By: AdrianLR (VIC) - Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 08:52

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 08:52
I've got a UniMig Panther 172. Around $900. It's served me well for a last couple of years. Similar (if not the same) to the CIG 165, both made in Italy but the UniMig had a full size regulator and better handpiece.

Argoshield Light was reccomended by BOC for the light steeel work that I mostly do. An E size cylinder is around $12 per month rental plus about $70 for gas.

The cheap units have aluminium windings on the transformers rather than copper which limits the duty cycle (so I have been told - YMMV)

Adrian
AnswerID: 259021

Reply By: Olcoolone- Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 19:19

Monday, Aug 27, 2007 at 19:19
Just a quick thing I did not know how common it is to weld alluminium to steel...there are heaps of companys doing it.

Here is abit I draged of the net about it......





Welcome

The vacuum-explosion welded transition joint called Triplate® is a high quality material for welding aluminium to steel.

SMT (Shockwave Metalworking Technologies b.v.), the producer of Triplate®, is specialized in the manufacture of this 'high-tech' transition.

SMT is approved as a manufacturer of aluminium/steel joints by Lloyd's Register of Shipping, Det Norske Veritas, Germanischer Lloyd, Bureau Veritas, American Bureau of Shipping and RINA.

Triplate® is most often used in shipbuilding, as a transition joint for welding an aluminium superstructure to a steel hull.



Might have to look into it..

Regards Richard
AnswerID: 259103

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