rims and types for 96 troopie

Yeah! Problem is the descriptions I have read of what can go wrong when you try to change split rims. Specifically, the damage to oneself. Good to hear it's easier.

Gotcha - yep you do need to know what you are doing and take approriate precautions.

Even better, you dont have to carry an entire wheel as spare. Just carry the tyre and tube. Split rims are easy with a couple of long tyre levers and a hammer. Well at least when its not fifty in the shade!

Most often a tyre will be punctured in the sidewall and with split rim set up you can apply a crisscross patch to the inside of the tyre and a patch to the tube or use a spare tube. Thats if the damage is not too severe. Plugs are not advisable on sidewalls.

If you stay on the bitumen your puctures most likely to be in the tread and you cant beat a tubeless tyre and rim for that.

If you ever do change a split rim set up, make sure you dont leave dirt and sand inside the tyre. I learned the hard way that it will wear a hole pretty quick in the tube.

I learned recently too that I shoulda kept off that freshly graded side of the road. The grader jumbles the sharp rocks and some stick the sharp side up. Or maybe I just should have kept off the Gibb River road?

My advice is have a good think about the sort of country you will travel. Good dirt country roads then tubeless. For the kimberly or virgin bush use splits.

I was told a good trick for breaking the bead and I have used it with great success. A couple of two inch pieces of angle iron can be hammered between the tyre and the rim moving around the rim until it falls away.

Owen

Owen,

Can you tell us more about how these 2 pieces of angle iron are used? Are they for splits or tubeless?

John

For use with either split rims or tubeless. I simply hammer in the first one so it goes in between the tyre and the rim. Stop when it reaches the steel rim. Hammer in the second one next to the first. Remove the first and hammer it in next to the second further along. Keep repeating until you get to where you started. Sometimes the bead will break before you go all the way around. It seems the tyre does not have to be moved much, only the thickness of the bit of angle iron. I have used them for both types of wheel but if the tyre is very old and the rim very rusty it will take a machine to get the tyre off.

I stand on the tyre as I go around and my weight will push the tyre down when the bead finally cracks. You have to break both sides of course.

I would take a photo and send it if I knew where. I had to scratch my head a bit before I worked it out the first time. But it is simple.

I keep four bits of angle in the dilly bag with other tyre tools.

Owen

Thanks Owen,
If I read you correctly, you are using short lengths of 2"x2" angle and hammering one edge of them in between tyre and rim progressively around the wheel to break the bead. This makes for a very space efficient bead breaker, especially since you will need to carry a rubber hammer anyway for reassembly. Have I got this right? If you can, I'd like to see photo please (johnandval at exemail.com.au).

I have a beadbreaker (inconveniently large) which works fine, but when removing the split rim, having broken the bead, have trouble keeping the tyre down clear of the split section. How do others do this? Simply standing on it isn't enough with my thick walled tyres.

John

Thanks for the all the advice, it's greatly appreciated. You can also send me a photo, too, if helpful. Email - lorisgooch@g.mail.com. Thanks again. I'm always appreciative of the advice, particularly that gained by experience, that I can tap into on this site.

The Tyrepliers also have the option of a split rim safety harness for split rim inflation

Look Here

I have a few brand new ones in the garage. If your in Sydney and want one let me know and you can have it.

Cheers Kev

Kev,
I had a look - it looks great. Simpler than a cage. I would like to get one and I am in Sydney. I'm setting off next year. I'm at Kingsford/Randwick. Where are you?

I am in the Liverpool area, I'll send you an email :)

Kev

Email sent

Kev

I use a steel hammer. I am not concerned with cosmetics though. The tyre is pushed down by the effort that goes into hammering the rim in. You might need to put something under the wheel to take the weight off the tyre but I dont have a problem with my tyres.

Owen

Many thanks for the site. I've read it and will print it off. I'm thinking of changing over to other rims/tyres.

Thanks for explaining the problem. And offering solutions.

you put the whhel rim size down on the passenger side no brake/fuel etc lines) beforepumping them up.
However I hve never heard of a mishap using A 12V pump out bush

Thanks for the advice. It is all appreciated.

Willem

On your treks where you go really bush do you use tubes or not?

Splits rims are usually narrow. Would you go for a wider rim and tyre or do you find narrow stand up better to protect the sidewall?

Alan

I run Crossply tyres on splits out bush.

My experience with tubeless tyres is that the sidewalls are too thin. Even radials on splits don't fare well in off track driving.
As long as you go for a tyre with 12ply rating or less with crossplies, then the sidewall can bag out sufficiently to give better traction in sandy conditions.

Cooper STT tubeless sidewallis about 4mm in diameter
MRF Super Traction tubed crossply sidewalls about 25mm in diameter

Willem,

What do you mean by diameter in your last paragraph above? Are you referring to the thickness of the sidewalls?

John

John


Yes

post title prob gives away they are 6 stud
rims and types for 96 troopie

Yes you are right Davoe, somehow I missed the 96, I just read it as Troopie

Dick

Yes, Davoe is right. I went out and counted them. 6. Sorry about that - for you.