Brief Trip Report

Submitted: Saturday, Sep 29, 2007 at 20:42
ThreadID: 50129 Views:3141 Replies:4 FollowUps:4
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In Jul-Aug we did this trip:

("We" = me, my 96 Troopy, my brother, my cousin, my brother-in-law, his brand new Terracan, and from Alice Springs, my brother's partner. Ages: 64, 54, 60, 62, 40)

Coffs Hbr - Bourke - Cameron Cnr - Arkaroola area - Lyndhurst - Oodnadatta - Painted Desert - Coober Pedy - Anne Beadell to Neale Jn - Connie Sue (Sth) to Neale Breakaways - Connie Sue (Nth) - Sydney Yeo Chasm - Warburton - Heather Hwy - Abandoned Gunbarrell - Bungabiddy Rockhole - Docker - Olgas - Uluru - Kings Canyon - Finke River Gorge - Palm Valley - Goss's Bluff - West Macdonnells - Alice - Rainbow Valley - Owen Springs track - Lambert Centre - Mount Dare - Dalhousie - Simpson Desert (French Line, Colson Track, Rig Rd, Knolls Rd, French Line) - Birdsville - Quilpie - St George - Coffs Hbr - 9900km, 6 weeks.

Painted Desert: Fantastic - we spent 2 nights there - walked, climbed, photographed etc. Don't miss it if you're out that way. All roads good.

The Breakaways (near Coober Pedy):Well worth the detour - lots of great photos there too, but perhaps not as fascinating as Painted Desert.

Anne Beadell Hwy: A truly wonderful experience if you want remoteness, solitude, a feeling of really being way out in the desert. Corrugations terrible - intractably relentless. But we'll do it again. And maybe even again. Better heading west than heading east because the road starts terrible (Mabel Ck - Emu) then gets better all the time, whereas west-east, the road just keeps getting worse! ... and worse.

Ilkurlka - wonderful people there. Diesel $2.10 but worth it!

Neale Breakaways: Turn south at Neale Jn. Connie Sue Sth is like the Strzlki - about 6 lanes wide. 50km to signposted turn off. Very like Painted Desert on a smaller scale. Don't miss this lovely place if you're out that way.

Point Lilian, Point Sandercock: Back up Connie Sue to Neale Jn and keep heading north. Both these breakaway areas are fascinating, with lots of caves (not limestone ones) showing evidence of long-ago habitation, and great views.

Sydney Yeo Chasm: Further up Connie Sue, turn right, track to chasm about 70km, 3 hrs. This was probably the highlight of our trip, not because of large scale dramatic scenery, but because of its utter remoteness and very personal scenery. We spent 3 nights there and explored, walked, star-gazed (Meade L90 8") and generally relaxed.

Waterfall Gorge - nice to have a good look at - but Connie Sue getting steadily worse as we went further north.

We went 7 days - Ilkurlka to Warburton - without seeing another soul. Wonderful.

Heather Hwy: First half very fast and easy. Second half every bit as bad as Connie Sue - maybe worse. But great.

Abandoned Gunbarrell - a bit of an anticlimax after Anne B, Connie S and Heather. Mt Samuel was a great place to spend a night. 360º views. Binoculars at night found one single light somewhere on the horizon, completely invisible to the naked eye. No idea where it was.

Bungabiddy Rockhole: 27km up the Sandy Blight Jn road.Well worth a visit.

Camping for a night at Uluru: The second most revolting night we spent. The most revolting was at Alice Springs. Couldn't even use our own wood for a fire.

Camping at Kings Canyon: Don't! King's Creek is much better (from our perspective, anyway)

Finke Gorge 4WD track: OK the whole length. Beautiful views around Running Waters.Boggy Hole a great place to camp. Good hill to clamber up right at the camp, with great views from the top.Well worth doing, and travelling north, takes you right to Hermannsburg and the Palm Valley track.

Goss's Bluff: Go inside it - don't just go past it.

Redbank Gorge Woodland Camp - a very nice place to camp.

Rainbow Valley: A must. Very beautiful.

Mt Dare: Spent a long time talking to Pat Stabler. A sad time for her after Ian's fatal accident - she told us exactly what happened, and it was a million-to-one thing. Very sad. She is a fabulous person, very brave, and very kind. Also very helpful in suggesting a route to take across the Simpson. She said she felt it is the right thing for her to stay out there for the present, but doesn't know for how long. Vale Ian.

We took over 4000 photos between us. I'll get some photos of a few of the less well known places posted to the Forum in due course. In the fullness of time. Very courageous.

Magellan XL to IBM Thinkpad/OziExplorer to Xenarc 12" monitor. Worked fabulously the whole trip, despite the attrocious corrugations. Moving Map is simply fantastic. We always knew EXACTLY where we were, and it helped us find a some very-hard-to-find junctions.
Used Google Earth and OziExpl to make and calibrate a series of large scale photos of the whole of the Finke Gorge, and used ExplorOz track-file downloads to get and show on the pics the exact path taken by whoever uploaded the .plt file. So using Moving Map with those pics we were able to navigate the whole Finke Gorge on photographs, almost tree by tree. Fabulous!

Graham Fraser
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Reply By: Member - colin J (VIC) - Saturday, Sep 29, 2007 at 21:23

Saturday, Sep 29, 2007 at 21:23
Thanks Graham for a great trip report.
Even though i've just returned from my own holiday, reading of your travels makes me itchy to get back on the road again.
Regards from Col
AnswerID: 264410

Reply By: Richard Kovac - Saturday, Sep 29, 2007 at 21:30

Saturday, Sep 29, 2007 at 21:30
Nice Report Graham

We just got back ourself from downing the gunbarrel and Connie sue, didn't go out to Sydney Yeo Chasm save it for the next trip, but was a good trip anyway.

Cheers
Richard
AnswerID: 264412

Reply By: Tony MD - Sunday, Sep 30, 2007 at 11:19

Sunday, Sep 30, 2007 at 11:19
Hi Graham. Thanks for your report. I recall your post about Sydney Yeo Chasm earlier in the year.
I am planning a trip along the Anne Beadell, Great Central Road & Connie Sue Hwy for next year.
If you don't mind. a few questions?
Looks like you didn't go through to Laverton but do you know if a permit is required for the Anne Beadell between Neale Junction & Laverton through Yamarna?
No mention of this requirement in other information that I have but there is a mention in the dept Indigenous affairs site.

Some ExplorOz trek notes bypass the above section by going through Mallee Hen Rocks.
Thanks in advance for any information.Cheers, Tony Middleditch.
AnswerID: 264452

Follow Up By: Member - Fizz (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 20:31

Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 20:31
Tony,
Sorry for the delay in answering.

You're right. Having not planned to go through to Laverton, I did not research any requirements for Neale Jn to Laverton.

I'm a bit puzzled about how Laverton fits into your itinerary, unless you are planning to go east from Laverton along the ABH to Neale Jn, then north along the CSH, then east/west on the GCR???

Be prepared to do a bit of walking at Neale Breakaways, SYeo, Pt Sandercock and Pt Lilian - well worth the effort.

I'm happy to be of any help I can.

Gope to have some photos up before too long.

Graham Fraser.

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FollowupID: 528008

Follow Up By: Tony MD - Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 20:53

Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 20:53
Graham, the loose plan thus far is to head west on the AB to Laverton from Coober Pedy. NE from Laverton to Warburton then south down the CSH via Sydney Yeo Chasm through to Rawlinna & Cocklebiddy. About 3 weeks Coober Pedy to Cocklebiddy. Cheers, Tony. Writing this on my PDA!

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FollowupID: 528017

Follow Up By: Member - Fizz (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 21:33

Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 21:33
Tony,

Makes sense! I forgot that CSH goes all the way down.

I'd like to get to the Nullabor sometime too. I've wanted to go there since my active speleo days in the 60's but have never made it. I've scanned the area on Google Earth (at least that part of it that's photographed) and have found a large number of cave entrances. Very tempting to an old trog! But 'old' may be the operative word these days!

Writing this on my MAC!!!

Graham.
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Reply By: Member - Browny (Vic) - Friday, Oct 05, 2007 at 08:27

Friday, Oct 05, 2007 at 08:27
Thanks for the light entertainment in Eyre Creek Graham. Did you get your photos.
AnswerID: 265121

Follow Up By: Member - Fizz (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 20:47

Wednesday, Oct 10, 2007 at 20:47
Hi Browny,

Glad you enjoyed my little episode IN (as opposed to NEAR) Eyre Ck!

A huge thanks to all who helped me out of it.

Yes thanks - I got some photos from George, and I rang him to thank him and reminisce!

Any more photos to would be welcome!

Cheers and more thanks,

Graham.
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FollowupID: 528014

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