Across the Nullabour

Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 30, 2007 at 23:05
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G'day.

I'm planning on driving from Roxby Downs in SA to Perth, in May. Quite a while off yet. I'm looking for a starting point to research photographic opportunities on the trip.

Now, I know it's a good bitumen road all the way and that the scenery does change a bit, but that's about it.

I'm looking to find out such things as:

Can I get near the cliffs?
Are there dead trees?
Colourful rocks?
Breakaway country with stark, white gums?

Not looking for the regular tourist spots. I'll find my images in the detail as well as the ordinary, so long as it's not all just bland for a thousand miles.

I'll be in the car, so apart from good dirt roads, to get away from the bitumen I need to walk.

Expect to camp out several nights.

I've been studying John Mcdouall Stuart, who explored the centre and went from Adelaide to Darwin. Following his tracks west of Lake Torrens. Maybe I need to study up on Edward John Eyre.

Any help to find my feet would be appreciated.

Regards,
Laurie.
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Reply By: Andrew from Vivid Adventures - Tuesday, Oct 30, 2007 at 23:26

Tuesday, Oct 30, 2007 at 23:26
You'll head down the Stuart to Portagutta then off to Perth I assume?

cliffs - presumably you mean on the bight. You can get near the cliffs at the head of the bight and take a regular vehicle into one or other of the numerous cliff top spots.

There are few if any places to get down to the water...

dead trees ... chuckle. No. ... well yes.

There are a few salt lakes. THere are a few treeless plains. THere is some saltbush country. There is some spinifex.

There is some limestone carsts on the Nullarbor.

There probably are colourful rocks, but I'm struggling to think of much - perhaps head out to Gawler Ranges, where if I remember rightly you might get the car in to the organ pipes and rocks...

Breakaway country up at Coober Pedy reasonably accessibly by conventional vehicle but without stark white gums... in fact not too many stark white gums in the area you are planning...
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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 08:41

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 08:41
Oh, come on mate! You know what I mean by dead trees. LOL.



But I guess you've got to have some live trees, to get dead ones.

Thanks. Some good info there.

Regards,
Laurie.
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Reply By: equinox - Tuesday, Oct 30, 2007 at 23:37

Tuesday, Oct 30, 2007 at 23:37
Hi Laurie,

I've been to a few Edward John Eyre spots. Unfortunately a couple are non-sedan friendly.

From memory there is a plaque at Fowlers Bay where Eyre started his journey.

At Eucla there is a plaque attached to a boulder overlooking the plain.

At Eyre (non-sedan friendly) on the beach there is another plaque. To the immediate north east (~50-60m) behind a large bush is the original soak that Eyre used. There is a trapdoor which reveals water at about 3 metres.

Baxter Memorial is just down the way (non-sedan friendly) where he was killed.

There is another plaque at Rossiter Bay where ole' Captain Rossiter rendered assistance to Eyre and Wylie.

I'm not sure of Albany or of any others.

Cheers

Alan

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In whatever comes our way.



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Reply By: Richard W (NSW) - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 00:23

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 00:23
Laurie,

Have a look at my trip report. May give you some ideas.
Site Link
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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 07:37

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 07:37
Great read, Richard.

Sounds like you saw some country, all right. Like your pictures. Also the way you set out your report.

Regards,
Laurie.
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Follow Up By: HGMonaro - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:36

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:36
yep, enjoyed reading your trip report Richard... found Part 2 too :)

Are some of your pics cropped significantly or have you got a very long lens?

here's ours which covers some of the same areas

www.nlandgl.com/roundOz


cheers, Nige
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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 13:10

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 13:10
Hey, thanks Nige.

You've obviously had a great trip. Enjoyed your stories of the Nullabour area.

My wife was recently at the Pinnacles. In fact, I wondered if they were her footprints in some of your photos.

Superb images; some from spectacular country and others from the ordinary places. Some in the 4 x 4 country, some just near the bitumen and some even right on it.

Regards,
Laurie.
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Follow Up By: HGMonaro - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:08

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:08
thanks. If you've got the time, an image can be found anywhere, especially if your're looking close up!

I would love to do the same trip purely as a "photo trip" but that's not going to happen and it would probably take several years!!

good luck for your jaunt!

Cheers, Nige
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Reply By: disco driver - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 00:38

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 00:38
Hi Laurie,

Depending on your time frame this option may be worth consideration
When you get to Norseman turn left and travel south to Esperance, through Salmon Gums and Gibson, both towns with some history and photo oportunities.
Esperance and surrounds is worth a look from a photo point of view. Many areas are 2wd friendly but some require 4wd.
From Esperance you can continue on to Albany then north to Perth, or turn north just west of Ravensthorpe (Big Mining development) to Perth via an interesting drive through the farming area (Hyden Wave Rock etc).

Hope this is some help.

Disco.
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Reply By: Member - Duncan W (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 00:46

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 00:46
When you hit Eucla stay at the motel or van park and take the rough gravel road down to the old Telegraph Stn. Some nice dune, ruins and dead stuff photos to be taken and the colours are pretty specky as well. You can walk over the dunes to the beach to the old jetty I think (my wife couldn't be bothered walking down to the beach when we were there).
Dunc
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Reply By: Richard Kovac - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 01:15

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 01:15
Just remember to turn right after pt Aug. I didn't once and ended at at Iron Knob.. :-)

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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 06:58

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 06:58
Yes, know the turn you mean. Would the Iron Knob, Whyalla route be an interesting drive?

Thanks,
Laurie.
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Follow Up By: Footloose - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 08:46

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 08:46
You turn right at "the tanks". Otherwise straight ahead for Whyalla etc.
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Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Yalgoo) - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:34

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:34
from memory the iron Knob Whyalla road is all saltbush and myall trees
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Follow Up By: Footloose - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:40

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:40
You left out the trucks :)
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Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 23:47

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 23:47
Laurie, Yes

very interesting place with a long history first Iron mine in OZ (I stand corected), I looked at photos I had taken but there are none only in the head..

Cheers

Richard
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Friday, Nov 02, 2007 at 00:16

Friday, Nov 02, 2007 at 00:16
Richard

I think you might find that the first iron mine was at Mittagong (NSW) in the 1850s. There is a park with information boards to the north of the old highway just after leaving the CBD travelling west where the first iron works was situated. For a little history on iron mining in Oz Site Link

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Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Friday, Nov 02, 2007 at 22:56

Friday, Nov 02, 2007 at 22:56
Thanks Peter

Thats a good read..

Cheers

Richard
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Reply By: Kevndeb - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 09:05

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 09:05
Morning Laurie,

We are planning a trip in the opposite direction, from Perth to Tassie. We are leaving in 44 days, not that we are counting. My daughter (10) has been using our trip plan as a project for school. Anyway to cut a long story short, my mum, her parents and brother did a the trip across the nullabour in 1961, before it was sealed. I have find a photo of them at roadhouse, in 1961....taken with a box brownie camera, it is still a great photo, and we still have the camera, I have scanned it and used it in my daughter school project, at the her age she still has not heard about Eyre, Baxter or how the Nullabour was made....sad really.

If you want a copy sent to you, let me know. I will email it to you. I am not sure what car it is....possibly a morris minor/major...someone would be able to tell you though.

Debbie
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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:28

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 10:28
Thanks Debbie.

I'd be pleased to see the photo. laurie_m48(at)yahoo.com

Maybe you'd also consider writing a small story to go with it to post on my travel blog. Three or four paragraphs, about 100 words would be fine, longer if you wish.

Maybe your daughter would like to combine some of her school project with it.

Thanks,
Laurie.
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Reply By: mike w (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 13:05

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 13:05
"Breakaway country with stark, white gums?"

When you hit Norseman, take the Norseman Hyden road. Along there are some nice salt lakes and a spot called the breakaways. A great camping spot and some spectacular breakaway country. It is a dirt road, well maintained, however if too much rain has passed, it may be closed. They fine per wheel on the road in them there parts.

It will also take in areas such as Victoria rocks??,, mount holland, wave rock to name a few.

Have a good trip
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Follow Up By: Motherhen - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:33

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:33
MIke - you beat me to it.The Breakaways is the best 'colourful rocks' i have seen, and a great camping spot as well.
Motherhen

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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:42

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:42
OK. Is the Breakaways a sunrise or a sunset spot? Both, maybe.

Thanks,
Laurie.
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Follow Up By: mike w (WA) - Thursday, Nov 01, 2007 at 01:43

Thursday, Nov 01, 2007 at 01:43
Having only seen it at sun set, which was nice, perhaps you could let me know what its like at sun rise? :)

If I remember back, I think the main layout of the main breakaways are north to south facing the east, and west to east facing the south, although with all things natural, they are random, and Im sure their true beauty will reveal themselves when ready.
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Follow Up By: Bega Photographer - Thursday, Nov 01, 2007 at 10:04

Thursday, Nov 01, 2007 at 10:04
Sounds like the Breakaways may be the sort of place where I'd need to walk a couple of km, starting by torch light, to get away from viewing platforms and beaten tracks.

Regards,
Laurie.
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Follow Up By: Motherhen - Thursday, Nov 01, 2007 at 22:23

Thursday, Nov 01, 2007 at 22:23
Hi Laurie

This Breakaway is only short - around 300 - 400 metres at a guess, and i think roughly faces south, so i would anticipate the sunlight hitting them better as we get into summer. There was plenty of sunlight catching the facets for photos when we pulled in to camp there, and less in the morning. It looks like coloured rocks with white icing dripped over it. At one end the rocks are almost mauve, and the other pinkish, while in the middle are the reddish brown as in my photo.The spot we camped is a small almost enclosed circle, which you can back into, and which makes an ideal camp.Camp sites have a fire place (but wood has been used up in the vicinity) and a concrete bench and seats.

Motherhen
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Reply By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 13:35

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 13:35
Thanks Mike.

Sounds like a good little detour for me. I like salt lakes.


Teatree Creek where it enters Lake Torrens.

Regards,
Laurie.
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Reply By: Motherhen - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:51

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 15:51
Hi Laurie

The gate to the Head of Bight should be open for whale watching season (fee applies), and the viewing platforms give views of cliff to the west and dunes to the east. Then when you get to the cliff top lookouts, the first ones you meet coming from the east are probably the most spectacular, although i have been into them all with camera clicking. When you get to Eucla, the dunes predominate.

I suggest you take the Norseman Hyden road. It is a very well maintained wide gravel road, as it is a mine haul route. There are some interesting rocks along the way, all well signed, and Mike beat me to recommending the Breakaways (picture in my gallery). We got there in the afternoon, and i thought the morning might be better - but afternoon was best anyway. Stop for the night there if you can. Most of the rocks are designated camping spots with a long drop or two.

McDermid Rock is one of many many granite outcrops, and has an interesting wave face (common feature too).

Before the Breakaways and McDermid Rock, you cross Lake Johnston, a large silver salt pan.

If you wanted to take the deviation, further north towards Coolgardie is Cave Hill Rock. This has many small dams as the rocks were the only source of water collection. It has colours and textures and softer white rock has eroded to form 'caves' on one face as well as the 'wave' face.Victoria Rock road, the road going north from Lake Johnson for the first 10 or 20 kms has patches where wheel ruts have formed in wet weather, so this patch could be slow in a car, but as soon as you leave the Dundas Shire it improves. The road from Victoria Rock Road to Cave Hill had just been graded and goes through sand plain country ablaze with colourful wildflowers when we went through late last month. Where it had been recently burnt was the most colourful.

When you get into the Wheat Belt, you will find dead trees in many of the expanding salt pans.

Motherhen

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Reply By: Bega Photographer - Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 20:14

Wednesday, Oct 31, 2007 at 20:14
Thanks to all of you.

That's some great info to get me started.

I'll need to allow a couple of extra days to look around.
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