DUMB QUESTION - I SHOULD KNOW

Use a brass drift as you have described.

I've always used a good steel punch .If you have a look in there you will see little scolloped out sections specially for that purpose,

I use a long socket extension, I had several and just sacrificed the cheep one.

It will never fit a ratchet or socket again, but works in the taking out and putting in a bearing cone every time without any damage.

Cheers Steve.

Hey Max, you can use the old bearing case to press them in with or a brass/copper drift, or a thick pin punch to punch them out with! Me i use a big pin punch or chisel and a 4lb lump hammer or a decent size ball pein hammer!

Never had a problem, or you can bring some beer up to newcastle and use my little 12 ton press!!!!! Depending on were you from in sydney???

or go and buy some more brass solid bar!

Cheers Have fun!

Max, the main thing is that what ever you use is softer than the bearing material ( most materials are ). Brass or copper dollies are great, not sure what the cost is to buy them. I often use keysteel, it is made from a reasonably soft steel, not as soft as copper or brass, but can be bought in a variety of sizes ( eg. 12mm x 12mm x 300 long ) and are cheap, may $3 - $5 for 12mm square. Buy a 3 or 4 grind them to different points and keep them in your toolbox. Shops like Blackwoods keep them in stock.
my 2 bob
Russell.

I use a brass drift too.
When mine wore down, and me being tight, I drilled a hole in the end and glued a 1/4" pin punch in it.
So that gave me another 6 inches I can grind away so it should last a while yet.

Dose not matter what you use, just take your time, and never belt the be-jesus out of it.
Last time I did my camper trailer bearings, I used a quality punch, and just worked my way around the lockout rings ( think thats what you call them )
But I did like the idea about the brass drift.


Cheers
Bucky

Very simple actually - the cones - or the correct terminology is the Outer race ( tapered angle roller bearing right ? )

weld the face where the bearing runs --- and a good 2 cm top and bottom --- this will cause the bearing to reduce size ( OD ) considerably as the weld cools and the race should virtually fall out with very little effort

But off coarse if your welding resembles bird dropping -- this method will not work for you ...

if that scares you -- you could buy a split collar set with slide hammer - expensive but works well ... great for small bearings

Boc

P.s from your terminology ( and really does give it away that your not a person on the tools ) - i think it would be best left to people in the know :)

i use what ever i can find
i work on the principal ..if they need to come out then they need replacing.

to put the new ones in i use a socket of suitable size
or a piece of copper tubing ..right diameter of course

Didn't turn on the 'puter yesterday, and really appreciated the feedback waiting for me this am.

I guess get another lump of brass (or put a punch in the one I've got as an extension) is the way to go, but will rake through the pile of sockets and see if I've got a couple that would help.

A couple of specific replies

Thanks to Christopher P for the offer of your press - I usually do the van wheels in the storage yard & the trip would take a bit of time.

And Ozboc is right - I never worked on the tools, but Dad taught me to do most of the work on a car and in 40 years I've never had a bearing that I've fitted or repacked fail on me However, before WW2 when Dad did his time, "Timken Tapers" had a cone and a cup!

I should use the right terms but its easy to slip into what you grew up with!!

Thanks everyone for an instant tutorial bringing me up to date. I appreciate all I learn on the site

Max