some ideas for camp trailer storage

Try

Dave Vella from Daves Metal Products at Wetherill Park in Sydney

google for contact details

His work is very good, he will custom build to suit your requirements

Cheers Kev

Good-day Just a small quere about your storage box on your draw bar When in transit your fridge working how do you keep dust and muck out of fridge motor I,m sure motor won,t last long with dust in it,s bearings Cheers Hobo Bob

Just an idea I have seen on other CTs.
They have an inlet scoop, like a bonnet scoop on top of the box, and inside is an air cleaner element. Circular ones about 300mm dia and 50mm deep. Plenty of cars have these types of cleaners, like the XD to XF fords.
Filters outthe dust, but still lets cooling air in.
You will need an outlet near the bottom to let the air out, with a rubber flap.
Maybe you could use an air cleaner pad from your car, and put the not so dirty ones in?

Just a thought will the draw bar take all the extra weight it only looks like 75 x 50 RHS . Mine is 100 x 50 RHS and I know a K K is 150 x 50 RHS might pay to keep this in mind.

Cheers

Might pay to think about weight distribution when you are loaded up. It is starting to look a bit heavy to the front, Ideally you want to distribute weight so the trailer nearly balances at the axle with just a little weight to the front giving downwards pressure onto your towbar. Will you be carrying water/fuel in the trailer? Will these be located over the axle or further back giving balance to the weight on the draw bar?

garfield,
your not hogging the forum or the limelight here
as you say, you now need help with another dilemma...

back to your 'idea'
have you seen a fridge (obviously locked) in a sealed container on the draw-bar ??

Have you considered any the following (problems)
plenty of - Dust
plenty of - Heat
plenty of - Weight distribution problems
Plenty of - Movement (damage) of fridge contents caused by 'road bumps'

Lack of - CLEAN COOLING AIR MOVEMENT over (fridge) condenser, causing it to run hot & 'eat' battery power

Lack of - Practicality to actually open the fridge when it's raining because both you and all the fridge contents will get very wet.

You WILL have to open the fridge if it's raining, even if you choose to sit in the vehicle to eat a salad or drink a 'soft' drink.


Maybe if it was a genuinely feasible scenario with-out any inherent working problems some of the Camper Trailer suppliers would presently offer it as a fitment option.
You could then get some ideas from their method, if they don't offer it, maybe it's for a very good reason.

Pretty sure I would not want my fridge on the draw-bar for the above reasons!

http://www.adventurecampers.com.au/camper_trailer_adventure_pilbara.htm

This Adelaide company manufacture their trailers with a 80 litre fridge mounted in a box on the drawbar.

I have one of their trailers but being as we already had a fridge went for the option of an empty box for fuel / firewood storage

cheers

G'day Garfield
Best place for fridge is in the back of the vehicle - use a fridge slide if needed to make access easier.
I'm not familiar with what you have built as far as a kitchen goes so please ignore my comments if they don't suit what you have.
Best place for camp kitchen would be in trailer - slide out or attached to tailgate - whatever suits.
Sealed box on draw bar for odds and ends is useful.
Be careful you don't end up with too much weight on draw bar - I even removed the spare wheel from there because it was too heavy and always in the way.
Cheers from the Moose

I agree with Mainey & Moose..put the fridge in the vehicle for all
the reasons stated & one more...will the fridge have power when you go for a drive without the C/t ?. Will you need the fridge when going on a day drive without C/t ? The choice is yours.
cheers...oldbaz.

Has anyone got some photos handy of their camp trailers? maybe some with how they pack their gear and if they have modifications made to them, like racks that can be taken off when not in use - or can be moved when the tent is opened.... ?

I saw a camp trailer when I was on the hunt for one, it had some steel tubing welded on the side of the camp trailer, and when needed another piece of steel tube (smaller in diameter) could be placed in it with a locking pin, so it could be put in and out with ease

Garfield, it isn't just the strength of the draw bar you need to consider. Far too many trailers have too short a draw bar, especially for off road use. Longer draw bars are quite a lot more stable to tow and easier to back. If you have stuff mounted on the bar and close to the trailer body (not close to the tow point), they also give less weight on the ball and are easier to manouver by hand, - the principle of levers at work.

Garfiejd, I wasn't trying to talk you out of using the draw bar, I was just suggesting some of the things you need to consider
strength of draw bar
length of draw bar (longer is way better)
Make sure draw bar extends well back under the trailer (none of this welding on just to the front edge of the trailer)
Position anything you mount on the draw bar as close to the trailer body as possible
think about what you will be carrying and how you will pack the trailer - Aim at almost balancing trailer around the axle so that there is just a bit of weight on the ball after you have added your mods and packed the trailer..