K&N v Finer Filter & OME v Std Coils

SupacheaP can get you K&N. Great choice!

Justin,

I had a 1hz 75 series and put a set of extrators on it and a 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust on it. There definately was a difference in both economy and power. My wifes brother had exactly the same vechile same year and i used to blow him away in a straight line drag. I now own a GU patrol 4.2 turbo and have recently put a 3 inch mandrel exhaust on it and also had a full tune, timing pump etc and the difference is amazing. I wish i had done it sooner. i am positive the crusier would hav beaten the nissan when it was in standard trim and was actually disapointed with the nissan power when it was first purchased compared to the naturally aspirated cruiser.

Thanks Desert - do you think I will notice any ride difference by just changing the coils or will suspension upgrade be needed? I got a price from Kmart to change the coils over and they want over $200!! I was considering getting some poly airbags for the rears as my 80 series is a dual cab so maybe they can change the coils in the process for minimal charge?

The coils have to come out to install polyairs anyway, so unless they are pricks there should be no problem.

new Shocks are not required, but are a good idea.

Are the springs LONGER (lifted) over the original ones? if so you will need longer shocks.

Yes Truckster the coils are longer I just found out. Well I suppose i'll need to wait and save some $$$ to buy some shocks before I install the coils - and I wonder if the poly airbags will fit the longer coils? Will the brake cables need extending I wonder??

If your fitting longer firmer springs and shocks, I wouldnt fit polyairs just yet, wait and see. What do you do with the car? Towing?

For longer coils, std poly airs wont fit. Theyare designed for std length springs... You will need some form of spacer to space the bags up to compensate.

EG std springs are X length, so are poly bags.
Longer springs are Y length, so need to make up the difference.

Truckster, on the bi-anual trip to the gulf I tow a 14ft alloy boat and usually 40-50 ctns of amber liquid. Half go on the back seat and the other half in the tray, and will all the other camping and fishing necessities there is a heap of weight behind the back wheels making the steering too light - dangerously too light. It is possible that the OME's may do the trick but I like the idea of the airbags adjustability.

so 2 times a year you have all this stuff onit. The rest of the year if you stiffen it up to match it will ride like a train on the road. It sounds like Polyairs wont be enough in all honesty.

If the front of your car is getting *that* light, I would buy some EXTRA HEAVY DUTY springs and shocks (3 hour job, you can drink a slab while doing it!), and put them in 1 day before the annual trip!

Good idea - thats one option I never considered, but makes alot of sense!

FWIW you can buy Polyairs designed for a 2" lift for a Nissan, not sure about Tojo, but assume so.

Regds

Bill

Justin, it depends on which grade of spring you are talking about. The best method is to get your self a cheap Vernier Caliper, that way you can measure the diameter of the coil spring wire and compare to the standard springs. I'm betting the rears(for example) are 17mm wire diameter, which will raise the car about 50-60mm and firm up the ride. If your load then returns the ride height to the standard position, then you need not worry about getting longer shockers. Trial and error, stick the things in and see if you like it. But please, don't pay some dork $200 to do it for you. I would suggets you put the car in for a service at a reputable 4x4 service man and get him to swap springs as part of the job. Shouldn't cost a lot extra over and above the service.
Cheers.

And with the shocks, they maybe WORSE than standard. Depends what rate they are. Rate is the compression rating, so you can get soft med and hard also very hard type.

Very Hard will be good if you tow trailers, adn fill the back up with heaps.

Soft would be good if you wanted to compete in Tuff Truck challange.

All have different jobs to do. You need to find out what yours are.

Truckster, I should of mentioned that the coils are med hard. As for the power issue I am really in need of some extra power and didn't want to go a turbo due to cost and 1HZ strength issues. I was actually thinking of a air filter and exhaust/extractors even if it just gives me a little more power for overtaking on highways. Someone did mention that I could put a blower on and that would help without putting great strain on the motor - any comments?

Anyone who says a blower doesnt put more strain on an engine, needs to see urgent medical advice.

What do you need the extra power for? Towing a trailer?

Look personally, exhaust and extractors $1000, airfilter and carrier $100, its still a good amount of money to outlay if it does nothing, but some cars respond to it better than others.. I suppose I could have been expecting MORE out of mine when I did the extractors and exhaust and airfilters, as some people were claiming MAGIC! But all I got was a Jnr Burger. Certainly not enough to use for overtaking!

Remember they are a big car, and aerodynamic as a parachute... Drive them accordingly. Yes we would all love more neddies (I have turbo nd want more!), but when it boils down to it, its going to cost you $5000 to make it fast, buy a $5000 car. cheaper to run, less problems, and easier to drive around town. Get one of them mobile coffin Excel things, they cost nort to run, and parkin aint a problem!

Turbo No change from $3000, and if you think a Blower is cheaper than that, again seek medical advice (quote I got for GQ was $4400, and recommended engine rebuild - $4000+)! Both put LARGE amounts of strain on a motor. Any power increase is more than normal, is a strain. Some maybe so minimal, that its not a problem though.

Engine swaps, not usually any change from $10k for good rebuilt turbo diesel, of any form. You could go a chev, or Holden V8 for cheap though (buy a wrecked VN commodore for $2000, wreck the rest of the car for parts make your $2000 back), probably around the $2500-5000 mark all up...

Truckster, on a different matter, I would like your advice on the previous matter posted on the forum regarding the 4.0L diesel with aftermarket turbo. Hope you can help.

Has anyone used or have opinions on the Unifilter 4x4 pre-cleaners that go into the snorkle. I know it is only a pre-cleaner and I assume this could effect the performance as it would create more restrictions????

" I want to drop a supercharged 6.5 litre diesel Chev into my Pathfinder. What do you think?"

Pass me your wallet and keys.... :)~

Rohan, 6.5l Chev - oh yea. It definately makes sense - only exception is the insurance company. I have considered this option but having a modified dual cab 80 series it is hard enough getting insurance as it is. Can you please explain the Dtronic - I thought you needed a turboed 'newer' vehicle. What does it do and are they available for an 80 series?

Thanks all you guys for your replys - they are appreciated!!!!

http://www.dtronic.com/dtronic/dtronic.htm

From reading the Dtronic web site it appears that there is nothing for a 80 series 1HZ - bummer. The story with the performance is: I bought the cruiser with 130kms and drove it to the gulf with a huge load and boat and I was able to achieve up to 140km/hr and it held the hills well. Now it has 160kms and over the last 30kms it has lost power and torque - cant hold 100km/hr on the highway and hills really slow it down. I have replaced all filters (except air), drained my tanks - they were clean, checked my snorkle for obstructions, had the vehicle dyno tested and my pump timing adjusted about 7000kms ago, and about 1000kms ago had the injectors done. The air filter has done 20,000kms - needs replacing and I did change from std tyres & splits to alloy mags and 265/70R16 10,000kms ago (shouldn't of changed performance i don't think?). I WANT MORE POWER AND TORQUE, but as the usual story goes I don't want to compromise engine life and the less money I spend the better????? I think i'll start with air filter then exhaust/extractors.

Again than you all for your replys!!!!!!!!

Truckster, if I could afford the Chev, I'd have gone for something a bit more expensive than the Pathfinder (or gone for my preferred option - a daily-driver AND a mean mother of a Patrol/Cruiser/Defender).

One day ... :)Talk is cheap ...
Rohan (Sydney)

Justin, try removing the air sensor in the intake and cleaning the oxygen sensor.

There was story (letter to the ed) in the current (July) issue of one of the 4x4 mags that claimed this was the cause of a similar problem in Nissan Terrano EFI diesel. Apparently neither Nissan nor a local diesel mechanic knew what it was but this guy worked with oxygen sensors and took a stab at the problem. he reckons after cleaning and reinstalling the sensor, the Terrano had never been more powerfull and responsive.

Could be worth a try if you've exhausted all the usual diesel tune-up tricks.

BTW, you may find there's a Unichip for 1HZ. Try Graeme Cooper Automotive at safari4x4.com.auTalk is cheap ...
Rohan (Sydney)

Rohan, I will grab a copy of 4x4 monthly and see if it is there and refer to my Workshop manual to find the sensor. I have never seen the sensor you are talking about, because I suppose I have never needed to look for it. Thanks for your input, it's hints like this one they may just identify the problem!!

I just found the "letter". Its on page 227 of 4x4 Monthly, titled "Sensational".Talk is cheap ...
Rohan (Sydney)

Justin
Email this dude as he has a K/N for sale in Sydney with cleaning kit.
stefan.nantz@veritas.com
He is on the landcruiser site at www.lcool.orgwheredayathinkwer mike?