Remote tracks...or not ?

Submitted: Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 11:28
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To members and visitors....good morning to all.

For the past 10 years or so I have been dreaming about attacking some of the iconic remote tracks this country has to offer.
Slowly getting to the stage where both time and finances are now making this dream a reality.
Having taken a great interest in peoples experiences, stories, advice etc, with respect to tracks such as the CSR, Simpson, Birdsille, Strzelecki, York, Tanami and a host of others Im beginning to get the impression that the tracks have become highways.

4wding and traveling has become a very popular activity and a great one at that. With advances in mapping, communications, vehicles, education more and more people seem to be traveling these routes and having a ball.
Its also because of this fact that I start to think these remote tracks have, in a way, become less remote, possibly less challenging and maybe less of an adventure [by todays standards].

Not in any way taking anything away from present day travellers and I hope to be out there amongst you guys in the near future, Im very curious to hear from older, more seasoned travellers about how these iconic tracks have changed over the last 20 or so years.
Isolation, remoteness, challenges, adventure, effects of increasing traffic and restrictions ?

Cheers.....Lionel.
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Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 12:14

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 12:14
They are neither "less remote" or "less challenging" Lionel.

In perfect conditions and following recent grading they may seem easier to travel on and sometimes one may wonder "what all the fuss was about".

But, much of the time there is still a "challenge" in completing a trek without experiencing some sort of problem or obstacle that requires a change in ones perception.

I have travelled the Birdsville track in what seemed ideal conditions.
Camped overnight at Mungerannie and following light rain during the night, was advised by the proprietor that we should head out first thing as heavier rain was approaching.
The first 50 kilometres on the way to Birdsville was driven at a speed that rarely approached 15 kilometres per hour, with the car fishtailing one way, while the trailer did the opposite. We survived that muddy section without becoming bogged and eventually were travelled along at 80kph or more when Murphy made his presence felt. A stone no bigger than a pea embedded itself in the rear window and everything went "opaque" through the rearview mirror.

You can't just call up the repairer to come and fix it so you duct tape a couple of beer cartons inside and outside to hold the bits of glass together and continue your journey.

On another occasion we travelled south (Adelaide) to north (Darwin) and lots of areas in between. On passing through the Alice, the only water in the Todd was a permanent waterhole behind the Telegraph Station.
On our return to the Alice, the last 50 kilometres was travelled at slow speed with water about 6 inches or so above the bitumen highway.
On reaching Alice we found a spot in the Caravan Park. The next day the Todd was a raging river with a span several hundred metres across. We only just made it over the bridge to the town side before it was closed, isolating those still remaining in the park.
Three days later the road was opened to the south again and we headed back to Adelaide, but crossing the rivers where flooding had occurred, you could see mounds of silt that the graders had moved. On one crossing only 4WD's could get through the remaining water and even one such vehicle became stranded in the middle of the river.
Several 2WD vehicles were lined up on both sides, waiting for the water to fall sufficiently.

These were just a couple of experiences we have "enjoyed" but I will NEVER take what looks to be an easy dirt "highway" for granted.

There are plenty of isolated areas in the Australian Outback and at times, no backup support or "outs" so you just set up camp until conditions change again.
I love the challenge, but at the same time try to limit the chances of becoming bogged, or experience a major breakdown.

There are still some iconic tracks that may have been replaced by new ones, such as the Strkelecki Track. We chose to travel down the Old Strzelecki and enjoyed the alternative route and the dirt based surface, as compared to the rubble based new one.

Mate, I can assure you there are still plenty of challenges out there to satisfy anyone. Sadly, people sometimes travel unprepared, or with insufficient knowledge and suffer the ultimate penalty.

Bill.
Bill


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Reply By: equinox - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 12:36

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 12:36
Lionel,

An "Iconic Track" will always be an Iconic Track. The history will always be there, the reason it became iconic in the first place.

Forget the remoteness though. People are driving these iconic tracks in exponential numbers though recent increase in fuel prices may slow this trend. - I notice you didn't even mention the Gunbarrel Highway. Iconic, yes. Iconic and remote, no!! 5 years ago when I stopped at Well 33 (Kunawaritji) on the CSR my group were the only visitors there. This year it was packed with about 30 visitors.

These tracks may seem remote at times but certainly in season anyway the people are around. Depends what your definition of remote is. There are plenty of remote tracks around still, they are just not iconic.

Cheers
Alan


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In whatever comes our way.



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Reply By: Member - Footloose - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 13:59

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 13:59
As others here have pointed out, many iconic tracks are well travelled these days, but they can still bite. Big time!
As also mentioned, it's the history that makes them iconic. So you can still get a thrill out of travelling them.
Yes, things have changed. But it's still possible to fire up the ol EJ wagon and set sail to Birdsville. The difference is that when you break down, they'll be plenty of passing traffic to flag down :))
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 14:02

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 14:02
Pick the time when you go. May and June are my favourite months because its not school holidays, not many people out there and great weather. Then some of these places still feel remote. Give July a miss.
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Follow Up By: Member - Footloose - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 14:14

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 14:14
And August ?
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Aug 04, 2008 at 22:45

Monday, Aug 04, 2008 at 22:45
Gday Footy,
August is better than July, september is better than august and theres too many flies in October :-))
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Reply By: Crackles - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 14:53

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 14:53
This was the track into the Bungles back in the 80's. It took us 3 hard hours with sharp creek exits & big stretches of bulldust. Next time we went in it took less than half that. To my line of thinking that makes the area alot less remote as I measure remoteness by the time it takes to get out to civilization & the number of people one would expect to see in an area.


The Madigan trip was know as a difficult 2 week drive & is now regulary completed in 8 or 9 days. For a while the Anne Beadell Highway was the longest single route in Oz between fuel stops, now with petrol in the middle is easily completed by the average 4x4.
Less of a challenge.........well of course it is. Gone are the rough as guts leaf sprung short wheel based Cruisers & Landys & in with the coil sprung wagons & utes with long range tanks, traction control, diff locks & 150kw of power on tap.
With trip notes, computer GPS mapping & the tonnes of accessable information on web sites & forums even an outback novice can load up his bus & cross the desert with barely a scrap of bush skill.
Less Remote, less adventure & far less challenging. (But still well worth going;-)
Cheers Craig..............
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Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 17:54

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 17:54
Craig

Your photo. Exactly where was that pic taken? The route I took into the Bungles along Spring Creek, as I recall, was a hard surface track in, with lots of dips and a couple of creek crossings. On the way out I took a different route and had to do some cross country driving to find my way out back to Turkey Creek. This was in 1986. I don't recall any bulldust patches. Then again, my memory is fading...:-)

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Crackles - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 18:52

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 18:52
1986, that would have made you one of the earliest travellers into the area Willem as it had only opened up a few years before. Certainly testing my memory on the exact location but it was about half way in before the Frank creek. (I was only a pup at the time)
The track to get into the Bungles must have been changed by the 90's as I didn't remember the route at all & took conciderably less time.
Cheers Craig..............
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Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 19:16

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 19:16
Craig,


Yes, the day we left th place was the day it was declared a National Park. Bungles were only 'discovered' in around 1982 by helicopter pilots. There were some old station tracks in the vicinity but obviously pastoralists kept their cattle away from that maze as they had known aboiut the place.

We could not find the track out from Echidna Chasm and took a compass bearing up Osmond Creek and then at Palms Yard went cross country and eventually found a station track of Texas Downs.

We had met an old bloke at the Bungles campsite(end of the track) who had turned around on that track some days before. He was driving a Troopy and had 250lts of spare fuel on his roofrack. At one stage the track runs at an angle and the Troopy tipped over sideways. Tragedy was averted when the Troopy fell against some trees and then righted itself again. In those days there were no official tracks from Turkey Creek to the Bungles.

The wife and I did this trip solo in a Suzuki Sierra shod with HT tyres....lol


Cheers
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Reply By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 18:04

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 18:04
Lionel

Remote is when your vehicle breaks down and you have to wait some hours or days for a passing traveller to help you.

But saying that, the majority of routes you mentioned are now wide, graded roads, for example Birdsville,Tanami and Strzelecki Tracks, all with daily traffic.

The past few years I have orchestrated some remote track and cross country treks, seeing some of the country few people would get to. The more the iconic tracks become highways, the more people will go looking for out of the way places to visit. But these latter adventures may come to an end within the next 5 years as land gets locked up by government decree.


Cheers
AnswerID: 318817

Reply By: Member - Lionel A (WA) - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 19:44

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 19:44
Thanks for all the interesting replies so far.

Outback travel, to me at least, has a certain romance attached to it. Im not an expert on say, the history of aviation but, take for example Charles Lindburgs historic flight in the Spirit of St Louis.
At the time a first, dangerous and challenging journey. These days thousands fly the route in fast comfy jets probably unaware of the history and pioneering spirit that forged these journeys.

Getting back to the outback travel, does not the same apply.
Im not suggesting that we all return to the pioneering days, history tells us they were too hard, but by the same token, do we not take most of these trips as suggested previously, for granted and at times ill prepaired. There will be someone along in 5 minutes time kind of attitude.

I also stand corrected on the issue of 'iconic' and 'remote'.
The replies have indicated that the two are very different and I do see that now.

Can someone now tell me if and how, say the CSR has changed in the last couple of decades or even more ?
In your opnion, better or worse?

Not trying to create any controversy or dissent but have this feeling that the more these 'iconic' trips are done, the more they are forced to change and when that happens, they then begin to lose the romance that was once a part of their history.
[ Im a better painter than a wordsmith, I hope you can understand what Im trying to say].

Cheers.....Lionel.
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Follow Up By: Crackles - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 20:43

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 20:43
During the past 15 years between my 2 trips the CSR has obviously become far more trafficked, the route very obvious & sign posted in most places. The 1st time we actually lost the track stopping to consult our topographic maps & compass. (Don't see that too often today ;-) Mining exploration has meant several main roads have been built into the heart of the route making for an easy exit. We went several days without seeing another car & camped on our own at Durba Springs. There certainly was a feeling of isolation. There was also only one well rebuilt which I'll leave to others to decide if that was good or bad.
Better access & facilities for more people making for a lesser remote experience.
Cheers Craig..........
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Reply By: Member - Glenn H (NSW) - Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 20:29

Sunday, Aug 03, 2008 at 20:29
Hi Lionel, can only back up advice of earlier posts. The A/C comfort of your 4by can evaporate in a second due to some mishap. No phone, 100km from just a roadhouse etc. the potential is there for a major disaster. The Cape is probably crowded this month, but go just after the Wet and you'll get the flowing creeks etc but it's pretty empty. Major roadhouses like Moreton were deserted and if some clown cleans you up on the Bypass Rd it's going to be messy. Preparation is the key and that's why sites like this are invaluable. Willem and all the troops are a goldmine. Cheers, warrie
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