"Turboing" non turbo motors

Hi gezza,
I had a turbo fitted nearly three years ago to my GQ 4.2.... I also run it at about 10 psi boost and can honestly say I am very happy with it. There shouldn't be any downfalls, as long as you are aware of allowing the turbo to cool sufficiently before surning the key to "off". I use a pyrometer to monitor Exhaust Gas Temperature and never turn the engine off till the temp read below 175 deg C. This will ensure the bearing in the turbo doesn't cook! I also monitor the EGT whilst driving to avoid melting the turbo on mountain climbs etc.... I use 600 deg C as a max, and when it hits 600, I back off the pedal till the EGT starts to fall. Again, this is taking care of the turbo and the engine.

I believe that an inter-cooler will improve the longevity of the engine, but as yet I haven't bothered to add one.


Hope this helps,
Cheers

Brian

A intercooler will help in allowing you to make the same power with less boost or more power at the same boost as the charge air is now cooler so more dense.

The one thing that will kill engines that were not designed for a Turbo is pushing too much boost throe it, as your NA Diesel will run a higher compression than a Turbo diesel engine, pistons, rods and bearings are all now under more stress as the motor is compressing more air and the subsequent bigger bang that results.

Looked at this when I bought my pajero.

The 2.8 came as a non turbo in the base model and turbo'd and intercooled in the next model up.

Had a friend in the trade make enquiries with Mitsubishi and the turbo'd model has different con rods and pistons and a few other little things. The price difference was just the cost of the aftermarket turbo, so went for the factory model.

Reckon the cruisers and patrol 4.2 diesels though most probably have a little more in reserve than my 2.8 to take a turbo.

As has been mentioned, the basic engine architecture is different, pistons and con rods are a lighter specification and the non turbo will not have oil spray cooling under the pistons. The 1 HZ engine has issues with the precombustion chambers in the head cracking at high boost levels.
That being said if you don't go squeezing the last erg of power out of it and blasting in ridiculous boost levels the engine should last quite a long time with mild boost ie 7 tp 9 psi.
Change the oil every 5000k with a good oil, filters every 5000k as well, air and fuel filters every 10,000k, service your pump and injectors every 100,000 km, fit a boost gauge and pyrometer and you should get a fairly long service life out of it.
Have a read on here;
http://www.lcool.org/forum/index.php
The turbo debate is well covered.
Think about getting a boost compensator fitted when you have your injection pump serviced ( $600 ish on top of the pump $$$), which will prevent overfueling at lower RPM and provide better ecomony and a bit less black smoke . An intercooler isn't really required for the boost levels these engines can take ie 7 to 10 psi although it will cool the air charge by about a 1/3 to 1/2 ie if the inlet temp is 90 deg C expect it to drop to around 45 to 55 deg. Whether you need one would depend on what you are doing with the vehicle, ie cruising vs heavy towing etc.
I'm looking at fitting a turbo to my 80 series cruiser in the nearish future, how do you find the DTS unit for performance ,fit and finish?

Pete

couple of pics of mine for you pete, DTS turbo and frontmount intercooler setup on a 105 series cruiser

I have had a Garratt t28 turbo (9psi boost) on my '97 1hz for the last 40000km.
I originally "derated" the pump, at the altitude we live the black smoke drove me mad.
So when I installed the turbo I reset the pump screw to the original setting.
The turbo setup has proved perfect for the added torque required in the towing we do, not interested in a heap more horses.
A valuable bonus is an improvement in fuel economy, now always less than 11litres/100km not towing, av. 15L/100 towing 2tonne.
I also believe a side effect of the better combustion is much cleaner/less contaminated oil. For instance at my 5000km. change the oil is now only a dark honey colour as against jet black previously.
Probably an urban myth, but was told that later 1hz motors had reduced structural integrity of the internals from lightened pistons etc. in the interest of reduced friction/economy.
Reckon if its going well and you are happy with the result thats about all that counts. I know I am.
furph

Provided you de-compress the motor by either pistons or decompression plate and do not run too much boost you should be fine.
If you dont then it's only a matter of time

Rob

Too much boost and too much fuel = as stated too higher exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) which will crack the pistons in a 1HZ engine.
You need a pyrometer or EGT guage and the egt's need to be under 550 degrees under load after 2 minutes.
This is going straight of Denco Diesels install and warranty instructions.
I have a set of pistons out of a 100 series that has less than 80 000 km on it with a DTS turbo that was opened up too much.
It now has a 1HDT engine in it.

gezza100

Mate did the turbo, and intercooler thing on his '99, 100 series Cruiser. He cannot be happier.

But be careful, I have heard another side to this arguement.
Have a look at a factory turbo motor, pulled down, compared to a non turbo motor, pulled down.
Now there will be some manufacturers that have exactly the same specs on both motors, ie the thickness of all the internals of the engine, con rods, crankshaft, pistons, ect.

There are also manufacturers that use lighter internals (because it's cheaper) for the non turbo'd motors.

Be carefull in your decision, and I hope that yourself, or someone else on the forum, can tell me that I am wrong..

Cheers
Bucky