80 100 series cruiser

My 1990 HZJ-80 Manual n/a diesel was rated at 3,500KG

Peter

Horace,

Whatever !!!!!!!!!!!!!

The multivalve turbo diesel is available from 95 not 96. Good luck finding one. I live in Sydney and just got back from Melbourne tonight (6pm) was asking $23,7 offered it to me for $21 but passed it up, heaps of blowby from the breather, oil leaking from inlet manifold, possible blow by from the rings, leaking rear main, new radiator needed, stone chips from top to bottom, clear coat startin to lift on the roof in 2 places etc. Cost me $800 for the day as I paid for my mechanic (brilliant mechanic, extremely knowledgable) but the $800 was well worth it, saved me heaps had I bought it mind you I wouldnt have due to the paint. This link below

http://www.offroad80s.com/toyota-design-fault-causes-rust-t1083.html

was given to me buy a gentleman from on here, brilliant link as the cruiser I looked had exactly this problem BUT wasnt rusted through but has seepage and both were full of water...
I did take it for a run and ws impressed with the power by it shame about the rest of it.....Also the limited model doesnt have a centre diff lock it relys on the visous coupling to be working properly to send equal power to both front and back wheels, I would prefer it to have the old button on the dash with centre diff lock then I know its locked.....Good luck with it all..WHG

Broe,

Dont worry about ruffling a few feathers, its your opinion and you are entitled to it. I just happen to agree with you.

Cheers,

Cruiser

Cheers Cruiser,

Glad I am not the only one that thinks that way. Just spent way too much time on it and went the other way and bought a 4 dr ute.

Time will tell if I miss the wagon.


Broe

Hi Broe. Just wondering why you recommend the Manual over the Auto. I have been looking for a late Sahara auto for some time now but as you know are very rare. Thanks,Bob.

Bob,

A mechanic mate of mine says that with the auto you have to rebuild them every 100km's. They can last longer but not recommended if traveling into the outback. The torque converter also cops a hammering when doing any 4x4ing as it absorbs a lot of revs (which it is supposed to do before feeding it to the drive train). The manual, the only thing I have heard is don't rush gear changes as it is like a truck, and they have a weak reverse in the front diff. Good for doing everything except snatching in reverse etc


Broe

If you can pick it up for that type of price then go for it, my choice, if it's worth anything, would be the 80 series any day over an early 100. Also, you are right, only get a manual and the 24-valve (multi-valve) 1HDJ 80R with the HDFT engine. Pretty easy to tell by looking at the plates, rocker covers, and performance. It really is worth driving a TD 80 that isn't a multi-valve first just to show you the difference.

Good luck and post some pics when you get one.


Broe

Hi Gazza, you can look from 95 onwards for the multivalve, while I didnt end up buying the cruiser I did take it for a run and was very impressed with the get up and go. I am looking for auto, Any particular reason you looking for manual ?? If you can find an auto or know somone with one try it. I found the manual boxes too clunky, (they dont like to be rushed) where as the auto super smooth, even put in low range and put in first yesterday and was impressed with its low range gearing, even for an auto, better then my prado. The multivalves are also visible by the the turbo sticker on the rear quarters and have "multivalve" incorporated in that sticker. Good luck finding one, think Im giving up !! WHG..............

Phil,

I keep on hearing about the weak gearboxes in the 105 series and i don't doubt they are, but I am yet to hear of a case of one blowing up. Have you heard anything about this? Mine's done some fairly hard work and has 105k km without a hitch (touch wood).

I do understand that the 5th gear set in on a different shaft and an 'afterthought' and it is wise not to stress this gear out with heavy towing, but has anyone heard of other problems with the box?

I tow a camper and only use 5th when 'appropriate' cruising on the flat and downhill and change down when approaching a hill.

I guess if mine blows up, I might just source one of the heavier H151 boxes, rather than fixing the R151.

In my opinion, the 80 and the 105 are very similar beasts, with the 105 a little quieter and more refined on the road. It is fairly easy to find a good one if you look around. I picked up mine at auction for $30k with BB winch, dual batts, cargo barrier, towbar with only 40k, so I reckon they're not a bad buy, though a little slow with the NA diesel.

I did look around for a multivalve TD 80 series, but a couple of years ago when looking, I would have paid more for this than the 105 and it would have had bucket loads of k's on the clock. I always remember a mechanic friend of mine reminding me that a car is more than an engine, gearbox, diffs and transfer case...lts of other things to wear out, rattle and provide headaches and ongoing maintenance.....door locks, hinges, steering gear etc.. I felt it better to buy the (virtually) new car despite the slightly slow engine (reliable) and supposedly weak gearbox. Time will tell if I was right in my choice.

Cheers,

Mark

2800rpm at 100kms seems a little high to be able to get 870km's per 90Litres. My 75 series N/A 1HZ sits on around 2700rpm but can only manage about 650km per 90 litres. Damn i wish i had your car.

auto runs 2100 at 100kms/hr and they change gears with full boost :)
If you need a larger car, the 105 with a 70 series hdfte transplant is the best option. U add 12k to purchase price minus what you can get for your motor and 5 speed....but what you end up with is a newer cruiser with better brakes, bigger interior, and all the benefits of the t/d 80. PLUS...they r easier to get.
Andrew