80 100 series cruiser

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 16:47
ThreadID: 67721 Views:3539 Replies:8 FollowUps:12
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I am in the market to buy a cruiser and are tossing between 80 or 100 series.
I have previously owned 2 x 60 series and had a good run out of both
Some information that people have given me is that the early 80 series were not much chop and to get one 1995 onwards
(possibly the anniversary edition), i have also heard to stay away from the 100 series??.
I am after a diesel with turbo so i can tow a caravan and of course off road, i live in the country a do a lot of mileage especially during footy season.
Can anybody please help with some pointers-advice?


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Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:05

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:05
How deep are your pockets as there is about $40.000 between possible alternatives.

Might help you get some intelligent replies.

AnswerID: 358992

Reply By: Cruiser .- Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:08

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:08

Try looking at LCOOL.ORG

There might be some good advise there.

I have had 2 x 80 series, 1 was a 93 petrol with LPG and the other was a 95 N/A diesel with aftermarket turbo.

Both were great vehicles but the diesel was not as powerful as the factory turbo, and I believe that the models from 96 onwards were the best models made before the 100 series came in in I think 98 (without turbo)

The models before Sep 96 were rated by Toyota to only tow 2500Kg but after Sep 96 they were rated as 3500Kg.

Anyway, try LCOOL and see if someone there can help.


AnswerID: 358993

Follow Up By: Horacehighroller - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 21:54

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 21:54
My 1990 HZJ-80 Manual n/a diesel was rated at 3,500KG

FollowupID: 627037

Follow Up By: Cruiser .- Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 07:28

Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 07:28

Whatever !!!!!!!!!!!!!

FollowupID: 627055

Follow Up By: Wherehegon - Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 21:49

Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 21:49
The multivalve turbo diesel is available from 95 not 96. Good luck finding one. I live in Sydney and just got back from Melbourne tonight (6pm) was asking $23,7 offered it to me for $21 but passed it up, heaps of blowby from the breather, oil leaking from inlet manifold, possible blow by from the rings, leaking rear main, new radiator needed, stone chips from top to bottom, clear coat startin to lift on the roof in 2 places etc. Cost me $800 for the day as I paid for my mechanic (brilliant mechanic, extremely knowledgable) but the $800 was well worth it, saved me heaps had I bought it mind you I wouldnt have due to the paint. This link below


was given to me buy a gentleman from on here, brilliant link as the cruiser I looked had exactly this problem BUT wasnt rusted through but has seepage and both were full of water...
I did take it for a run and ws impressed with the power by it shame about the rest of it.....Also the limited model doesnt have a centre diff lock it relys on the visous coupling to be working properly to send equal power to both front and back wheels, I would prefer it to have the old button on the dash with centre diff lock then I know its locked.....Good luck with it all..WHG

FollowupID: 627140

Reply By: Member - Broe (WA) - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:33

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:33
Tough question and something that I went through myself for just over a year.

Firstly, how much do you want to spend and what is the weight you are towing?

The pick between the two vehicles is by far a multi-valve TD 80 Series with less than 200k on the clock. They do come up once in a blue moon but I do mean once in a blue moon, and when they do, they fetch high 20's. Reason, they are the best truck out there (manual mind you). For that kind of money you can get a good 100 series but you want the live axle, not the IFS and it will have lower km's. I never found what I wanted so I ended up splashing out and buying a brand new SR5 hilux. Had it 2 months now.

Hilux can only tow 2 1/4 tonne, but my mate who was going through the same exercise bought a Prado (towing capacity of 2 1/2 tonne). The auto's are bullet proof, the IFS unless you do extreme 4x4'ing with big lifts has had most problems ironed out. the front end of the Prado does move a bit as evident by looking at your bullbar whilst driving.

With the market the way it is I picked mine up for $51,920 and he got his for $54,300. With resales of Toyota the way they are I ended up going this way. Also note that the 3.0 D4D puts out in the Hilux 127kw and 343 Nm of torque but with a really nice flat curve that works for you better than something with 400, the Prado has the same kw but 410Nm of torque, pulls a little differently but heaps of grunt. you will find these rival the 100's and 80's easily and are much nicer to drive.

I guess it just comes down to $$$

I will no doubt have ruffles a few feather with this post so will leave it at that and watch the replies.

AnswerID: 358995

Follow Up By: Cruiser .- Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:08

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:08

Dont worry about ruffling a few feathers, its your opinion and you are entitled to it. I just happen to agree with you.


FollowupID: 627003

Follow Up By: Member - Broe (WA) - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:12

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:12
Cheers Cruiser,

Glad I am not the only one that thinks that way. Just spent way too much time on it and went the other way and bought a 4 dr ute.

Time will tell if I miss the wagon.

FollowupID: 627005

Follow Up By: toyocrusa - Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 06:22

Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 06:22
Hi Broe. Just wondering why you recommend the Manual over the Auto. I have been looking for a late Sahara auto for some time now but as you know are very rare. Thanks,Bob.
FollowupID: 627053

Follow Up By: Member - Broe (WA) - Tuesday, Apr 14, 2009 at 10:26

Tuesday, Apr 14, 2009 at 10:26

A mechanic mate of mine says that with the auto you have to rebuild them every 100km's. They can last longer but not recommended if traveling into the outback. The torque converter also cops a hammering when doing any 4x4ing as it absorbs a lot of revs (which it is supposed to do before feeding it to the drive train). The manual, the only thing I have heard is don't rush gear changes as it is like a truck, and they have a weak reverse in the front diff. Good for doing everything except snatching in reverse etc

FollowupID: 627429

Reply By: Gazza57 - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:55

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 17:55
Thanks so far for your replies, my brother recentley picked up an anniversary 80 series TD for $18,000 in good condition, i was looking for something around that range but i will need the turbo for the caravan(agg:1200kg)
If the early 100 series are OK i could also look in that direction , basically the main question is $ for $ and performance reliability etc would i be better off with a say sept 96 onward 80 series or an early 100 series( i believe that from sept 96 on the 80 series was rated at 3500 kg towing i have also read to ensure that i get the 24valve 4.2 ltr turbo 1HD-FT ???????)
AnswerID: 358999

Follow Up By: Member - Broe (WA) - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:04

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:04
If you can pick it up for that type of price then go for it, my choice, if it's worth anything, would be the 80 series any day over an early 100. Also, you are right, only get a manual and the 24-valve (multi-valve) 1HDJ 80R with the HDFT engine. Pretty easy to tell by looking at the plates, rocker covers, and performance. It really is worth driving a TD 80 that isn't a multi-valve first just to show you the difference.

Good luck and post some pics when you get one.

FollowupID: 627002

Follow Up By: Wherehegon - Saturday, Apr 11, 2009 at 09:07

Saturday, Apr 11, 2009 at 09:07
Hi Gazza, you can look from 95 onwards for the multivalve, while I didnt end up buying the cruiser I did take it for a run and was very impressed with the get up and go. I am looking for auto, Any particular reason you looking for manual ?? If you can find an auto or know somone with one try it. I found the manual boxes too clunky, (they dont like to be rushed) where as the auto super smooth, even put in low range and put in first yesterday and was impressed with its low range gearing, even for an auto, better then my prado. The multivalves are also visible by the the turbo sticker on the rear quarters and have "multivalve" incorporated in that sticker. Good luck finding one, think Im giving up !! WHG..............
FollowupID: 627174

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:42

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 18:42
We've been shopping for the same for my daughter for the past couple of months.

100series TD were too expensive for her - $40k+
105series 1Hz - hard to get a good one and they have the weak gearbox. $22k+
80series Multivalve TD - pick of the bunch, but rare and expensive $22k+
Late 80series 1Hz - thats what we bought - found a good 1997 model that has done little work for $13k. They have a stronger gearbox than the 105series and none of the pollution gear.

But we don't tow.

AnswerID: 359005

Follow Up By: Member - Mark E (VIC) - Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 09:26

Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 09:26

I keep on hearing about the weak gearboxes in the 105 series and i don't doubt they are, but I am yet to hear of a case of one blowing up. Have you heard anything about this? Mine's done some fairly hard work and has 105k km without a hitch (touch wood).

I do understand that the 5th gear set in on a different shaft and an 'afterthought' and it is wise not to stress this gear out with heavy towing, but has anyone heard of other problems with the box?

I tow a camper and only use 5th when 'appropriate' cruising on the flat and downhill and change down when approaching a hill.

I guess if mine blows up, I might just source one of the heavier H151 boxes, rather than fixing the R151.

In my opinion, the 80 and the 105 are very similar beasts, with the 105 a little quieter and more refined on the road. It is fairly easy to find a good one if you look around. I picked up mine at auction for $30k with BB winch, dual batts, cargo barrier, towbar with only 40k, so I reckon they're not a bad buy, though a little slow with the NA diesel.

I did look around for a multivalve TD 80 series, but a couple of years ago when looking, I would have paid more for this than the 105 and it would have had bucket loads of k's on the clock. I always remember a mechanic friend of mine reminding me that a car is more than an engine, gearbox, diffs and transfer case...lts of other things to wear out, rattle and provide headaches and ongoing maintenance.....door locks, hinges, steering gear etc.. I felt it better to buy the (virtually) new car despite the slightly slow engine (reliable) and supposedly weak gearbox. Time will tell if I was right in my choice.


FollowupID: 627076

Reply By: haveconvertedcruiser - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 20:01

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 20:01
Hey Gazza,

I have a 94' 80 series that was petrol, now has a 1 hz with aftermarket turbo. I still run petrol diffs and gearbox, i run a t28 ball-bearing turbo,3inch mandrel bent exhaust no mufflers, and decompressed motor, i find it great goes anywhere and can do anything. My mate has a 95' 80 series factory TD, his is stock, from idle to 3000 revvs mine has a lot more torque and loves bein down low in revvs from 3000 up his has all the pull in the world. On the hiway sitting on 100klm/hr mine revvs at 2800 and his 2200. both running 33" muddies. Mine gets 870klm's to 90lts(than add the sub tank) and not sure about his. Both are 5sp manual, all the same fet, he payed $16,500. i payed $4,500(plus conversion) $12,000. Hope this helps in some way.
AnswerID: 359018

Follow Up By: Member - Kroozer (WA) - Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 02:08

Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 02:08
2800rpm at 100kms seems a little high to be able to get 870km's per 90Litres. My 75 series N/A 1HZ sits on around 2700rpm but can only manage about 650km per 90 litres. Damn i wish i had your car.
FollowupID: 627050

Reply By: Falco80 - Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 20:20

Thursday, Apr 09, 2009 at 20:20
Gazza, 1995 was the update for the 80series and from then onwards to late 97/early 98 they were built with the 1HD-FT. They are an awesome factory turbo-diesel engine and make the mighty 80 an a great truck allround. No nasty electronically controlled injection pump means everything is so simple to work on. I've had my 97 manual multivalve for 6 months now and love it to bits. I paid in the high $20,000's for her but it was well worth it. They do come up for sale every so often, but expect to see the odometer north of 200,000k's.
AnswerID: 359022

Reply By: Member - DOZER- Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 16:44

Friday, Apr 10, 2009 at 16:44
One of the bugbears in all 80 cruisers is the shift of their 5 speed...i have owned 2 manuals and 2 autos, the latest a sahara t/d auto, and wouldnt go back to a manual now....The 100 series got an electronic controlled hdft and IFS suspension, the late 80t/d had the best of the lot no electronics and no IFS.
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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AnswerID: 359098

Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Saturday, Apr 11, 2009 at 21:09

Saturday, Apr 11, 2009 at 21:09
auto runs 2100 at 100kms/hr and they change gears with full boost :)
If you need a larger car, the 105 with a 70 series hdfte transplant is the best option. U add 12k to purchase price minus what you can get for your motor and 5 speed....but what you end up with is a newer cruiser with better brakes, bigger interior, and all the benefits of the t/d 80. PLUS...they r easier to get.
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Classifieds: Landcruiser 200 series /100 series 4 alloy rims with tyres and nuts GC

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