Thursday, Oct 08, 2009 at 09:40
There are a few pics in this slide show.
http://www.tinyurl.com/3hmazq
The track up the west side and over the range has been there and used for many years.
We did that trip in '06 and I wrote this little storey for the CMCA Wanderer magazine.
Have you really seen the Kennedy Ranges National
Park?
We had talked to other travellers who had visited the Kennedy Ranges National
Park in the Gascoyne region of Western Australia before we visited. They described
the gorge walks, the afternoon sun on the cliffs and the
camping area in some detail. And their descriptions were quite accurate. But we were to see quite a different place than the one that they had described.
After a discussion with a very helpful Parks
Ranger in
Carnarvon by telephone, we set off from the small town of
Gascoyne Junction to explore the
park. But instead of heading north, we go west for 30km, then turn north across the Gascoyne River.
Now the Gascoyne River here is over half a kilometre wide of soft sand, with not a drop of
water in sight. It is a big river system, draining a large area, but it is completely dry, or so it appears. Not so! Just 150k downstream at
Carnarvon the river looks just as dry, yet there is a thriving fruit and veg irrigation area along its banks. In fact there is plenty of
water and the river is flowing, but it all happens below the sand.
As we drive north, the range rises up to our right, but it is not all the cliffs and rocky gorges that have been described to us, it is softer, gentler country with creeks and springs and shady trees.
We stop for lunch at a spot that tempts us for a longer stay, but move on, northwards.
There are a myriad of old station tracks in the area, and we need to be careful with the navigation to avoid getting bushed. The track wanders across the boundaries of the National
Park and Binthalya Station, which has been acquired by the WA Department of Environment and Conservation, but is not part of the
Park.
Soon we are going up. The track is slow and steep in parts, but there are no difficulties and we quickly reach the crest.
We seem to have been transported to another place. What a shock. The top of the
Kennedy Range is a vast flat plateau of Spinifex and red
sand dunes, it bears almost no resemblance to the country below, just a couple of ks away.
The top of the Range is less than 20k wide at this point, but the track zig-zags across the plain, around the ends of the dunes until we arrive on the western side. Here there is another total change in vista.
On the eastern escarpment, the flat plateau dramatically ends, and we gaze out over the plains to the south and to the east. From here, the track follows close to the edge for about 20k as it goes north and we get new
views after every turn.
About half way along, Margaret exclaims, ‘What a perfect spot to spend the night!’ We back up to the edge for the best view as the shadows lengthen. We are totally alone. It seems that the horizon is a million
miles away, but we see no evidence of other human activity, no cars, no buildings and no generators. But we remind ourselves not to wander too far in the night, if nature calls.
The real world is not too far away, though, as next morning we drop back to ‘ground zero’ and join the tourists at what still is, a very beautiful Temples Gorge
camping area with great gorge walks nearby, but anyone can tell you about those, can’t they?
Temples Gorge
camp ground position: S24º 39.766’, E115º 10.572’.
Maps: HEMA Mid West, Western Australia. For the western side and the eastern descent you will need Geoscience Australia 1:250,000 SG5001
Kennedy Range.
Permits: None, but speak to Parks at
Carnarvon (ph. 08 994 3754) before attempting the western side.
Getting there:
Gascoyne Junction is 173km east of
Carnarvon.
Accessibility: The western side & over the Range is strictly 4x4, the eastern
Temple Gorge campsite is 60km north of
Gascoyne Junction via a 2WD graded,
unsealed road.
Facilities:
Toilets at the eastern (
Temple Gorge)
camp ground. Take your rubbish out with you.
Fees:
No entry fees apply.
Camping is $6.50 pp ($4.50 for concession card holders, including Seniors Cards), at the
Temple Gorge campground.
Other
places of interest nearby: If you are in the area around the end of September, don’t miss
the Junction Race Club race & gymkhana weekend, what ever you do. It has been happening for a hundred years now, and should not be missed.
Enjoy,
© Peter & Margaret
OKA196 (DIY) Motorhome
AnswerID:
386228
Follow Up By: TOOLEY - Monday, Oct 12, 2009 at 01:08
Monday, Oct 12, 2009 at 01:08
Hi Peter & Margaret
I am interested why you say there is a
camping fee at
Temple Gorge in the
Kennedy Range National Park.
I work for DEC & know there is no fees in this
park. Did someone collect fees from you? If so this is illegal, & I would like to follow this up.
Good traveling, cheers Tooley.
FollowupID:
654240
Follow Up By: get outmore - Monday, Oct 12, 2009 at 01:55
Monday, Oct 12, 2009 at 01:55
no fees charged there a fornight ago
Host was very helpfull. i was surprised how many people there were there
FollowupID:
654242