Snatch Straps (correct use?)

Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:10
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After watching some examples of snatch strap usage which horrified me somewhat I am interested if anyone can tell me the correct use use of these?
One example is people in the towing vehicle seem to have the idea they have to take off at a 100mph which is a disaster in waiting!
I am interested in any comments.
Thanks in advance.
Ian
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Reply By: MrBitchi (QLD) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:26

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:26
IMO, leave about 2m of slack and then move off at about a fast walk. If that doesn't work try a shovel.

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Follow Up By: Member - Mark G Gulmarrad - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:36

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:36
John
that sounds like experience ??
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Follow Up By: Gramps - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:48

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:48
Sounds about right to me MrB although some preparatory work with a shovel may be required. Have used that method successfully in the past. Speed is NOT required.
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Follow Up By: Member - Duncan W (WA) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 21:02

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 21:02
Yep you don't need to go like a bull at a gate. The strap is supposed to do all the work using kinetic energy. If used correctly once the strap has been fully extended the tow vehicle could stop and the elasticity in the strap should pop you out of the bog.

Once had a guy in a 70 series ute pull me off a small hill I got hung up on and he gunned it and damn near had me flying through his back window in reverse. The snatch was that hard it activated my ABS warning light and nearly gave me whip lash.
Dunc
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Reply By: Will 76 Series - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:53

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 20:53
Ian,

The best advice I got was the form of the Z with each part about 1m (3m of slack) and a steady constant pull in 2nd low. Worked for me everytime i have used it.
Important to make sure the anchor points are sound as there has been some unfortunate deaths by D shackles breaking and coming thru the front window. No problems with good gear though.

Regards Will
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Reply By: Member - Tony V (NSW) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 21:31

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 21:31
Looking at the threads above you can see the "experienced" members..

This is one of the better demos on how to perform a snatch recovery



No need to go at it like a bull in a china shop.

Stop, look and think.....

Training is a great option, if you are a 4x4 Club members they should have training to help, if not then training by a a 4WD organisation is worthwhile.

In WA someone like Eureka4wd can help.
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Follow Up By: rumpig - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:01

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:01
i sure did a good job of burying my fourby for that video...lol
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Follow Up By: Member - Allan B (QLD) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:14

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:14
Yeah, a good demo Tony.
Good to see it from outside the vehicle. The strap has always been behind me and I can't see it. LOL

Always best to start easy and have a second slightly stronger pull if need be.

As Duncan said, it's done using kinetic energy due to the inertia of the towing vehicle, but it is not the elasticity of the strap which provides the energy. It is the inertia of the towing vehicle (weight x velocity) which adds to the traction of the vehicle. The elasticity of the strap removes the sudden jerk which would occur if the strap were not elastic. The energy applied to the towed vehicle is only as much as the towing vehicle applies via inertia and traction. The same amount of power (inertia + traction) would be applied if the strap were not elastic but there would be a hell of a sudden jerk and a heap of peak stress placed upon the components.

Cheers
Allan

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Follow Up By: Member - Timbo - Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 17:13

Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 17:13
That's a good demonstration video. The only thing I would suggest re the video is that the tow driver should keep driving to prevent the strap from being tangled under or run over by the recovered vehicle.

I get the impression most people like a more "spectacular" recovery though, and sadly sometimes results in being so spectacular that it captures the attention of the newspapers and the coroner...

I agree with Allan (again), it's "always best to start easy and have a second slightly stronger pull if need be." And as I've said before, if a 'slightly stronger pull' won't budge the stuck vehicle, it's not a recovery that can/should be attempted with a snatch strap.
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:08

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:08
You never snatch unless you have to - lots of energy stored in a snatch strap. For the majority of recoveries, a few minutes of shovel work will turn a snatch into a tow, which carries less risk.

With snatching, it's the broken recovery points and shackles that cost lives.

Your recovery points need to be the strongest part. They have to be stronger than the strap. This is where the debate starts!! In the past, we all had 10,000lb rated recovery hooks bolted directly to the chassis with high tensile 12mm bolts. No shackle required. And if you pulled too hard, you might straighten the hook, but you wouldn't have a lethal missile.

These days, most vehicles come with closed tow loops, which by themselves, are unsuitable for snatch recovery and require the use of a shackle - potentially a missile. You can fit very strong aftermarket recovery points, but they are often stronger than the chassis they are attached to and can rip out in a heavy snatching situation. They also need a shackle. There is no perfect solution..... but you can make snatching safe by following some general rules.

First preference is to pull at low speed.
Shovel work will help.
Keep all onlookers at least 15 metres clear of the recovery (for a 9M strap), and not in line with the snatch. I think its best to coordinate via UHF radio.
If you have a choice, try to have the vehicles rear to rear - if anything breaks, the driver is better protected. At least have the recovering vehicle facing forward.
If attaching a strap to the front of a vehicle, use an equaliser strap. This is a 3-4 metre strap or tree trunk protector that attaches to two chassis mounted recovery points, and the loop of the snatch strap passes through it. It halves the load on each recovery point and if the worse were to happen and one point breaks, then it will be retained by the opposite point and not become a missile.

For the rear recovery point a square hitch is most commonly used because it shares the load across the rear chassis, and history has shown that if installed correctly with HT bolts, the hitch doesn't become a missile. My preference is to simply place the hitch pin through the loop of the strap. With really hard snatch you might bend a pin, but you won't shear it. The alternative hitch receiver and 4.75Tshackle will be kinder to the pin, but add too much metal for my liking. Never use a towball, as a recent death will attest.

The pulling bit is easy (too easy sometimes)! Call it over the radio. I prefer the vehicles to be in the same low gear. The strap should have about 2 metres of slack - the extra strap should be in view of the bogged driver, so they can time their thottle. And its always better to have a couple of unsuccessful tugs and build it up than to go like a bull at a gate.

And don't bother with airbrakes of other devices for restraining broken straps ot recovery points - they are almost impossible to make work.

And for vehicles that are badly stuck, a winch with snatch block may be the safest option.

Disclaimer: All of the blurb above is my opinion based on personal experience, time as a club trainer and assessor and learning from the mistakes of others. Feel free to agree or disagree - thats fine as long as you explain.

Cheers
phil
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Follow Up By: Member - Tony V (NSW) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:35

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:35
Thanks Phil,

The basis of most of what has been relayed on this thread can be achieved by completing a course SRODRV001B (Basic drive and Recover a 4WD Vehicle).
That is with a training organisation or via your State 4WD Association.

P.S. My preference is to use a damper on the snatch, plus use the horn to signal start and stop the recovery, as both hands should be on the steering wheel.

Most of all it appears that we all agree on, low speed, use a shovel or road build.

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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:48

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:48
Gday Tony,

Yep, I agree with you about state club training. You're more likely to get taught in real-life situations.

One of our members has had quite an interest in the use of dampners, and a lot of demonstations have been taped. When you attach a shackle to a loaded snatch strap, it destroys everything in its path. Air brakes do nothing to retard the shackle. A heavy weight placed in the middle of the strap does nothing. A heavy weight placed towards the broken end will help to retard the loaded strap and shackle.

While the video posted above is pretty good, it does demonstate a totally useless way of using a commercial dampner bag!!

Cheers
phil
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 23:11

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 23:11
I agree that commercial dampener air brakes etc are a waste of time.

However, if you can be bothered to set up the following air brake, I can just about guarantee that a breakage would not end in tears..... ("just about" being the operative words).

For a 9 meters long strap, you need a length of modest-size rope (say the common Telstra rope that everybody has a length of somewhere). This needs to be about 6 meters long. You'll also need 2 lengths of chain about 1 meter long each.

Method: tie the 2 lengths of chain around the strap at the 3m and 6m points along it's length. A simple knot in the chain will be sufficient. Now, tie the rope to the recovery vehicle; just use a separate point....tie-down point will be fine. Take the rope back along the snatch strap and tie off to the chain at 3m and then at 6m.

As the recovery vehicle drives off, the rope ensures that the 2 lengths of chain remain roughly at the 3m and 6m positions along the strap. In the event that either strap-connection point fails, the resulting projectile will be restrained as the chain flops onto the ground. Unlike a heavy, solid weight (eg: sand bag), the chain acts to entangle the broken strap/shackle/tow bar. The only thing it won't stop is a broken tow ball, which once broken, is no longer attached to anything....whereas a shackle would remain captive on the strap.....

I've seen it demonstrated in video recorded by the SAAFWDC during extensive research they undertook.

Cheers

Roachie
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Reply By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:49

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:49
Hi Ian
There have been some very good reply's above. Firstly from my experience, it should never be performed by any person that has never been shown the correct procedures in snatching, as it can be very dangerous. People do die every year and it is not a myth. Just a few months ago up north (I think in the Kimberly region) a service club was holding a money raiser, and a four wheel drive became bogged. It was very clear from the details, that neither party in the snatch knew what they were doing, resulting in a bull bar being ripped from the bogged vehicle, killing the drivers 15 yo daughter that was watching the recovery from the side of the track, as reported her on the forum.

These days there are far safer and better ways of retrieving a bogged vehicle with very good results. Enter the 100% Australian made and tested MaxTrax.

During our many desert ventures, we have used a snatch strap correctly many times with only one problem, you need another vehicle to snatch you. On one of my solo ventures near Lake Torrens, we became bogged in some very soft sand. Unlike the video clip above, the moment that I lost traction, I stopped the vehicle, as it is pointless to dig yourself in any further. Making sure my front wheels where straight and selecting reverse, I was slowly able to reverse out. I was lucky that time, but soon became bogged again shortly after.

This time reverse did not work and stopped immediately, as the last thing that I wanted was to bury my vehicle 15 kilometres away from the homestead. The first thing was out with the shovel, clearing all sand from the wheels and the area behind my vehicle, as it was better to go backwards than forwards. Next, to drop my tyre pressure right down and with luck on my side, was able to drive out, thank goodness. This happened again, and I was able to drive out safely. The question here was, here I was, a long way from help, all the recovery gear in my vehicle to get me out, but no other vehicle to snatch me out.

First thing on Monday morning, it was on the phone and ordered a set of MaxTrax. They work very simple and the most important thing is you do not need another vehicle and are safe to use. I still carry snatch straps, but will only resort to using it if all else fails.

As they say, take the easy way out.

Cheers

Stephen
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:59

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:59
Gday Stephen,
Yeah, if I were a solo traveller, I'd carry a set too. But they aren't all they are made out to be. Some guys were playing with them at a training weekend recently, and from what I could see, they were totally useless if the vehicle's belly was sitting on the sand. Still need to do a lot of long shovel work under the middle of the vehicle. Also managed to remove a heap of the plastic "spikes" off the Maxtrax by spining the tyres.

Cheers
phil
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Follow Up By: Member - Stephen L (Clare SA) - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 07:58

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 07:58
Hi Phil
Was it that the people that were using them did not know what they were doing? When you get them, there is a very good instructional DVD. Sure you still have to dig, just as using a snatch, but you should where possible avoid spinning the tyres, just take it slow and easy. They are a far safer way of extracting a bogged vehicle and the more that people see and use them, the better people will have an understanding of there importance. Like I said above, for solo work in an area where being bogged is a possibility, they are a must.

Cheers

Stephen
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Reply By: Member - Flynnie (NSW) - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:53

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 22:53
Ian

I have read the posts and watched the video and can't help wondering why snatching is done much at all now.

In sand sometimes just dropping the tyre pressures will be enough to get moving, if they have not been dropped already. As others have said the shovel should be used first and not last. Shovels are really good at moving sand! Sounds silly but in a recent trip I was starting to wonder if people knew what a shovel was or how to use it. Basics are overlooked these days.

Is there another safer recovery option? Given that a snatch will place at least one more vehicle and driver at some risk (hopefully only very slight risk), a self recovery approach may be preferable. Also there should be some satisfaction in being able to say. "I got myself out of that mess".

I have done a few posts on my opinion of Maxtrax and that I think they should be tried before any snatching attempt is made in sand. My experience is limited to sand, even so, I have recovered a vehicle that looked a lot more bogged than the one in the video by using shovels and Maxtrax. It did take 4 Maxtrax and a bit of digging. So I would advocate including a set in your recovery gear. They are easy to use.

Disclaimer I have no connection with Maxtrax. Only a customer.

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Follow Up By: rumpig - Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 23:13

Tuesday, Oct 27, 2009 at 23:13
that video was made for a particular event / reason, both Dave and myself would prefer to use Maxtrax over a snatch strap any day. not only are they alot safer option then using a snatch strap, but IMHO they are a much easier way to extract a bogged vehicle.
i've self recovered myself using a set of Maxtraxs (and dropping the tyre pressure more) whilst towing my caravan on sand once, the guy who kindly pulled up in front of me to offer a snatch recovery, couldn't understand why i asked him to please move out of the way so i could do it myself.
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Follow Up By: Member - Timbo - Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 17:14

Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 17:14
MaxTrax are very difficult to carry unless you've always got roof racks or a ute, especially AFTER using them!
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Follow Up By: Member - Timbo - Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 17:23

Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 17:23
Oh, I meant to add: if a stranger kindly offered to snatch me out I'd probably refuse, even if it meant hand-winching! :) I've seen too many people snatching at "full power" that I wouldn't want to take the risk in case he was one of them...
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Follow Up By: Member - Flynnie (NSW) - Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 23:07

Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 23:07
Timbo

You have made a good point about Maxtrax being a bit difficult to carry without a ute or roof racks. Nothing's perfect. I don't think we really disagree on that. Me I have a trayback and have a spot for them whether used or not so I did not have a problem. Traybacks are BIG compared to wagons and other vehicles for storage of difficult items. Hey that is the main reason I got one for my trips!

Most vehicles I have seen are chronically overloaded and have roof racks
and heaps and heaps of unnecessary junk that gets lugged around. Perhaps some of that could be left behind to lighten the load and to make way for essential stuff like Maxtrax.

Maxtrax are a bit of a pain when sandy or worse muddy. No doubt about that.

So I would reckon that if anyone has roof racks they can put the Maxtrax on them ahead of anything else. It is all about prioritising. They are a safety and survival item and should be amongst the first things packed not amongst the last.

I have only used them twice. One was more or less mucking around to get the hang of them and the other was a serious rescue of an under prepared vehicle. This was in 5 weeks and 12,000 k comprising a lot of desert driving. So not an awful lot of inconvenience from having sand on them.

Not related to your post but to an earlier one about chewing the lugs off Maxtrax through wheel spin, I can see a time coming when like snatch straps the rescuer will say "I will get you out. Hand me your Maxtrax". I did suffer some slight chewing of the lugs when the driver of the vehicle being recovered spun his wheels to get out instead of being a bit more gentle. Such is life. But is does bring home that like snatch straps they will not last for ever and a lot less if abused. Rescues are not free!

I think they are well worth packing and are a lot easier for non expert people to use than the other techniques.


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Reply By: Member Brian (Gold Coast) - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 08:02

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 08:02
Ian,
IMHO the best advice is to join a 4X4 Club (that has a Driver Awareness Program) and/or do an accredited training course. There is good advice in the replies above, but nothing beats real time training/experience.

My only gripe with most of the above (and remember this is only my opinion) is about dampeners. The commercial dampeners available are mostly for winch use, and are not expected to take the shock of a snatch recovery. I have seen many of these dampeners used on snatch straps only to become a rocket as they part company with strap as soon as the load is applied. Personally, I have my strap kept in an old beach towel, and I knot that towel around the strap. Makes for a secure dampener that won't come off, and is both heavy enough to drop the strap if it breaks and light enough to not be a physical menace if it was to hit someone.

The other thing is keeping spectators away, I was taught one-and-a-half times the length of the strap, so 13.5m for a 9m strap, and if more than one strap are joined together, then one-and-a-half times each strap..... so 25m for 2 etc etc. There is also the issue of joining straps.... This could go on and on couldn't it? Which is exactly why it's best to do some formal training.... there is a lot that can go wrong, people have been injured/maimed/killed from the incorrect use of recovery gear.

This link HERE provides information about clubs in WA.

Cheers

Brian

AnswerID: 389074

Reply By: Willem - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 08:16

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 08:16
Ian

In all my years of travelling I have never owned a snatch strap. I have always relied on my winch, shovel or extremely low tyre pressures to get me out of trouble. On a number of occasions the winch was ineffective and other measures had to be brought to the fore.


Waaay back before the advent of snatch straps I was able to lay my hands on a knotted snatch rope which was surplus from defence force supply. One day out on the mud plains me mate got his HJ45 bogged. I used the rope to pull him out the 'wrong' way with a Suzuki ute. Took a few kinetic hard snatches to get him out too :-) For a moment I thought I had stretched the Suzuki..lol Didn't have rated bow shackles in those days either, only U bolts. I have seen a number of accidents happen on club trips with snatch straps and luckily no one was injured, but those were the early days. I think that most people are learning to take care with these things. Its all a learning curve.

A couple of years ago I went to rescue a vehicle bogged near Lake Torrens SA. On the day my winch failed due to a mechanical problem. We connected 80 metres of snatch rope, cable and chains together and without even so much as a tug I was able to pull the vehicle free using the kinetic enegery of all of the devices hooked together.

This year on the CSR we used three snatch straps to get me over one dune. It worked well without the use of force. There was an alternative way around the dune but the snatch straps worked well then. I am still not convinced however to acquire a snatch strap. Maybe my needs will change in the future however :-)

Cheers

AnswerID: 389075

Reply By: Member - ross m (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 14:35

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 14:35
A lot of people need to learn how not to get bogged.
It never fails to amaze me when I come across idiots axle deep in sand that my old 75 series rolls over with 18psi in the tyres.
Its nearly always someone in a late model 4wd that thinks power is all you need offroad.
AnswerID: 389112

Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 20:23

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 20:23
Ross, I'm with you, I go out to enjoy the drive not get bogged..

have all the gear but it's something I don't want to use. :-)

Richard
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Follow Up By: Member - ross m (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 21:04

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 21:04
I got a bit annoyed with someone a couple years back.He was bogged in the sand dunes after making his own tracks and tearing everything up.
I stopped to help and noticed he still had 40lb psi in the tyres.
I said Ill let your tyres down while you dig,but he just wanted me to drag him out.

Should have seen his face when I drove offLOL
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Reply By: Smudger - Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 19:26

Wednesday, Oct 28, 2009 at 19:26
Slow and easy, like most of the above have said ..
.... BUT before you use the strap as a snatch, try using it as a simple tow rope, most times you won't even need to stretch the strap.
If you do need to "snatch" the bogged vehicle, always check that the straps' safety threads are intact. If they are broken, don't ever use that strap as a snatch again, keep it for use soley as a tow rope.
AnswerID: 389146

Reply By: River Swaggie - Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 01:36

Thursday, Oct 29, 2009 at 01:36
Seen a few instances where people DONT use a dampener while snatching but will while winching...
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