Tuesday, Apr 13, 2010 at 09:16
Hi CLC50,
This is a long reply but I don't often get to contribute something usefull so I'm making the most of it. So many have helped me on this
forum so I hope this is some of use to you.
I fitted a turbo to my 80 Series in 2006. At that time my vehicle had about 150,000km on the clock. My turbo is an AXT system using a Garrett turbo and it does not have an intercooler. it was set to 8lb boost.
Two things happened as a result,
1- the fuel consumption increased from around 12L/100km to 13.5 L/100km.
2- I had significantly more power between around 1800rpm and 2100 rpm.
I towed a 17ft off road pop top caravan immediately after the fitting (and before) and noticed the increase in power within the rev range stated above but I was disappointed with the power increase, especially when towing and on hills where the vehicle would slow down considerably , admittedly not as much as prior to the turbo being fitted but none the less I expected more torque than I got.
I enquired about fitting an intercooler but was advised it would be a waste of money (wouldn't improve the power).
I also enquired about fitting a 3inch exhaust and was told I could expect 5% power increase.
I decided to shut up and live with what I had.
Since then I have fitted a 2.5 inch exhaust and a pyrometer.
At the same time I fitted the exhaust I also replaced all my injectors so I'm not sure which action created the result, probably a combination of both but anyway the results were positive.
I have a noticable increase in torque. Whereas before, my power band was between 1800 and 2100rpm, it is now down to 1600 to 2100 rpm. The cruiser pulls away in a higher gear noticably easier which is a good
sign but I've yet to test it towing.
Why a 2.5" exhaust instead of 3"? The Turbo has a 2.5" outlet to the dump pipe so I could not see the point in getting a dump pipe that flares out from 2.5" to 3". If the turbo outlet had been 3" I would have fitted a 3" exhaust. I also ensured that the exhaust contained a braided section to absorb engine and road vibrations. I could not afford a stainless steel exhaust so I just went with a normal one.
Another point to note is that once you fit an after market turbo the off the shelf exhaust kits don't just bolt on. The dump pipes are all different and there is some matching and individual bending to be done.
The pyrometer: Just soothes my paranoia about the engine cooking. It is surprising how the engine temperature varies with driving habits. The big thing that was confirmed to me was that high revs don't necessarily mean higher temps. There is a balance.
WBS
AnswerID:
412727
Follow Up By: Member Brian (Gold Coast) - Tuesday, Apr 13, 2010 at 16:31
Tuesday, Apr 13, 2010 at 16:31
WBS makes a very valid point, and one that I had forgotten to mention myself.
It is (IMO) extremely important to fit a pyrometer! Personally, I have a pyrometer and a boost gauge. I watch the pyro, and I can alter my acceleration via the boost gauge to make a difference on the pyro, in other words... I find that when driving up a long
hill, the pyro gets up around 500°C, I can back off the accelerator till the boost guage falls back to around 7 or 8 psi, still be going up the
hill at a reasonable pace but the pyro will drop below the 500° mark.
Also, when I pull up, I idle the engine and watch the pyro till the temp drops below about 175° before turning the engine off.
Cheers
Brian
FollowupID:
682796