Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 10:35
Here is a document I put together for our club on the Karunji/Cockburn/King
River track:
Cockburn Range Circuit - The Karunjie Track
The
Cockburn Range is one of the northernmost localities in Western Australia. Just West of
Wyndham. It is an extensive
sandstone escarpment, shaped like a vast round fortress of high
orange cliffs, it rises to over 600 metres above the surrounding plains. The formation is cut by rivers that form steep sided gorges. The
Cockburn Range was named by Philip Parker King after Vice Admiral Sir George
Cockburn.
There is a
lookout on the
Gibb River Road a few Kms west of
Home valley that gives magnificent
views of the range and immediate flats with the
Pentecost River running through it. It has been said that Baz Luhrmman got the inspiration for the movie Australia from that
lookout and the
Cockburn Range. As you drive around the range it is so easy to imagine “King Billy” up on the tip of the escarpment with his fire and spear. So real!. And as you drive across the dry marsh flats its easy to imagine the
old truck driving up to the
homestead. Then you have to get out and open the
gate and the image disappears!!!
The Karunjie Track in early years was the original route from
Derby to
Wyndham and on to the Northern Territory. Landholders and drovers brought thousands of cattle along this route to the meat works in
Wyndham. Breed included Brahman and Shorthorn. You should see plenty on the drive.
One of the northernmost localities in Western Australia, the
Cockburn Range is an extensive
sandstone escarpment. Shaped like a vast round fortress of high
orange cliffs, it rises to over 600 metres above the surrounding plains. The formation is cut by rivers that form steep sided gorges.
This drive is a 133km 4WD circumnavigation of the spectacular
Cockburn Range. This slow but easy route combines the
Gibb River Road, the Old Karunjie track and King
River track. The latter tracks being managed by the
El Questro Wilderness Park, which has an information sheet on the drive. You will need a “Wilderness Park Permit” to access the track from
El Questro to do the drive. You may also be able to get the pass from
Emma Gorge resort. Most of the track is on private property.
The track is just like a typical run across one of the big stations. Mainly two wheel marks in the rocks, sand, bull dust or dried mud. There are sections that are quite rocky and sandy and there are some parts with a bull dust holes. The main worries are the deep bull dust holes. One option is across a dried up marsh. They call it the Marsh Road Shortcut and it is recommended for dry weather only. The track across the marsh looks as if it disappears during each wet so it can be hard to follow at the start of the dry until more traffic (preferably local) has been across it. It’s not a graded road just some wheel tracks across the dry mud. Leave your trailer/van back at
El Questro or
Emma Gorge.
There are three access points; two ways in from the
Gibb River Road and one road from the Great Northern Highway near
Wyndham.
For the whole circumnavigation of the
Cockburn Range you start and end on the
Gibb River Road.
Gibb River Road entries are from either right next to the eastern bank of the
Pentecost River at the crossing on the
Gibb River Road, or alternately, at a
gate on the northern side of the
Gibb River Road at a point 12.3Km from the Great Northern Hwy and 11.8Km from the
Emma Gorge turnoff.
For a shorter version; From
Wyndham you head south on the Great Northern Hwy then west to Diggers Rest Station. This half-hour drive from
Wyndham features shimmering tidal flats,
views of the
Cockburn Range and an ancient boab once used as a police lockup. You can
camp at the
homestead, which offers horse
treks and great saltwater fishing. At 30km from the
Wyndham a
gate on the left marks the entry to the King
River Track, which is a 31.5 Km drive south to the
Gibb River Road. The road “straight” ahead is the Karunjie Track, around the northern parts of the range
There is an option to take a “shortcut” around the northern of the range. The shortcut is recommended as it takes you across the flats where, I have been told, the “
homestead” parts of the movie “Australia” were made. A unique run with magnificent unimpeded
views of the range and a difficult to follow track as it is a series of wheel marks on the dried out mud.
The track gives you superb
views of the
Cockburn Range the whole way. Stones and washouts mean slow going at first, but then - provided conditions are dry - comes a lovely smooth 17km detour across a salt marsh. Bull dust holes are common past the marsh. So too are large boab trees, including one called 'The Killing Tree'. It was here in 1987 that a crazed gunman murdered three local people who were on a weekend fishing trip. It's a sobering note on which to end this leg of the circuit.
May I suggest that if you do plan to do the whole circuit, start at the eastern
gate in the morning and go around it in a clockwise direction putting the sun at your “back” for the whole trip. Exiting next to the
Pentecost River crossing on the
Gibb River Road. It’s not a long track but its worth stopping along the way for a cuppa (no fires or camping though) and a nibble allowing the sun to follow you and present the range in a better light. Of course you won’t beat the sunrise and sunset options. We did the whole circle starting at the
gate at 12:24 and finishing at 4:26. A bit later than expected but we stopped too much on the way from
Home Valley Station before we started the track. We took about four hours and found that it was a nice leisurely drive. My arms were a bit tired as the track is very windy off the marsh part.
To us this was one of the highlights of our
Kimberley trip. We saw the movie and got inspired to see this place. And we were not disappointed.
What a country!!!
Phil
Here are links to a map and some pics:
Karunji track mapA lot of the track north from the GRR is like thisGate sign - Please respect their requestExact same view as in "Australia"King Billy had his fire up on that one in "Australia"
AnswerID:
420740
Follow Up By: Member - sdr00y (Beecroft,NSW) - Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 17:45
Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 17:45
Phil, Have not seen the movie yet!
Thanks heaps for your pics and info. I am glad I posted the question now.
FollowupID:
690981
Follow Up By: Member - Rob Mac (QLD) - Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 21:43
Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 21:43
Hi Phil, Used too look south from my front yard to the
Cockburn Ranges. I grew up in the house on the corner of the Highway and Baker Street (caravan park road) and never got to go around the old Karunjie Road even though I have been out to the
King River plenty of times in the 60's and 70's before many people had 4WD's. Used Holden/ Falcon/ Valiants (probably not too many people around would know what a Valiant was), Dad even when courting Mum took her out to the Prison Tree on his 500cc Matchless Twin. Image Could Not Be Found
Cheers
Rob Mac
FollowupID:
691032
Follow Up By: vk1dx - Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 23:16
Monday, Jun 14, 2010 at 23:16
Well at least I know what a Valiant is. Or should that be "was". But there will still be some around so I gather "is" will be fine.
Lovely neck of the woods up there. And a bit warmer than here in
Canberra.
Next is
Cape York in about 5 weeks. You little ripper.
May get up your way again another year.
Cheers and thanks for the Photo. We also dropped in to
Wyndham.
Phil
FollowupID:
691042
Follow Up By: Muntoo - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 00:18
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 00:18
Excellent write up there Phil.
The
hill that features in the background at the
homestead in Australia is actually on Carlton
Hill station. Its known as
house roof hill, thats where the actual
homestead was built for the movie. The Cockburns do feature in the movie though. But King Billy is actually on this
hill if i remember correctly. That
hill possibly saved my and a few others lives once when we were disorientated and lost a track in the middle of the night while searching for a mate who was stuck. Long story but yeah, that
hill was our saviour as i knew that if we headed for it we would find the
Ord river and then i could get us back on track. Just as we we found the river, a search plane flew over head.
And also the Killing tree is now long gone. Floods washed it away about 6 years ago, what was once a very popular camping spot is now totally transformed.
FollowupID:
691050
Follow Up By: vk1dx - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 08:04
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 08:04
Oh
well Thats stuffed it all for us then. We were happy to know that we had been "there"
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Rob Mac (QLD) - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 22:27
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 22:27
Hi Muntoo, I think it is called
House Roof Hill and this is how it looked around 1963 from Harts Crossing
Cheers
Rob Mac
Image Could Not Be Found
FollowupID:
691206
Follow Up By: Muntoo - Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 23:12
Tuesday, Jun 15, 2010 at 23:12
Awesome Rob, thats
House Roof hill alright.
I have never heard of Harts crossing before, only Carlton crossing. Anyways you have got some great photos of the country up that way i have noticed. Do you have a gallery online to view?
FollowupID:
691217
Follow Up By: vk1dx - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 07:22
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 07:22
Is this Harts Crossing? Just west of
Kununurra and south of
House Roof Hill.
Don't know about swimming there though! A bit of local "familiarity leads to contempt" for the bities. We saw heaps of crocs in the Ord on a trip down from the
dam. Makes me shudder.
Phil
FollowupID:
691230
Follow Up By: Muntoo - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 13:47
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 13:47
Thats Carlton crossing. But it could of been known as Harts crossing also. That is the exact position of the photo, right on the bend of the Ord, at the turn off to Dustys yards and the bend of the ord
bore. This is where ''Hairys Dogs'' Ultimate adventures fishing
camp is located also. Have seen quite a few outboard skegs and props that have met Carlton crossing whilst at speed.
FollowupID:
691296
Follow Up By: Member - Rob Mac (QLD) - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 19:15
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 19:15
Hi Muntoo, I dont have an online presence I just have Dad's slides from when he went to Wyn in 49. I have this recollection that Harts Crossing was different to Carlton Crossing but cannot remember exactly. The last time I went across Carlton Crossing was about August 1973 with Dad taking some stores out to Carlton Stn then into
Kununurra to load up some fuel for Legune. We were in his KGL Bedford that was on its first run with the Hendrickson lazy axle replaced with a bogy drive.
Cheers
FollowupID:
691355
Follow Up By: Member - Rob Mac (QLD) - Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 22:57
Wednesday, Jun 16, 2010 at 22:57
Hi Phil, I couldnt reply to you earlier when replying to Muntoo as I was on my Netbook downstairs ready to watch Origin and the photo I wanted was not on it. The swimming there was not too much of a problem those days (60's) as the croc's were pretty much shot out and the crossings were shingle banks and not too deep, not like in 51 at the tennis club picnics when they had a look out with a 303.
Dad was telling me that Tex would brace
the pool with a full magazine and then stand watch with a full mag and one up the spout apparently the concussion in the water would scare the croc's off and every now and then the swimmers would hear a boom overhead as he shot at an approaching croc to scare it off.
Cheers
Image Could Not Be FoundImage Could Not Be Found
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: vk1dx - Thursday, Jun 17, 2010 at 07:44
Thursday, Jun 17, 2010 at 07:44
I can believe that. I wonder which was better. It was a different way of life hey!!!
Just imagine trying that now. You would be inundated with greenies and OH&S people. Not to mention workplace (or whatever) and the lawyers chasing the ambulances.
(Note that my wife works in a legal firm and this is a tongue in cheek comment. Most lawyers are fine as in any other line of work).
I think I will give the swimming a miss. Okay.
Cheers
Phil
FollowupID:
691433