Battery Charger Question

I've done a fair bit of searching about battery chargers but can't find an answer to my question. Please accept my apologies if this is a FQA. I've looked at ctek, projecta, xantrex and jaycar charger and they all claim to run your accessories while they charge. But from what I can gather this is not entirely true. For example, say I have the ctek XS25000 and it has determined that my battery should be charged at a rate of 10 amps. But what happens if someone switches on a load of 15 amps? From what I can gather, the charger will continue to provide 10 amps and the battery will actually discharge at a rate of 5amps. Even if we only draw 5 amps then the charge time for the battery will pretty much double. This doesn't seem very smart considering these are meant to be 'smart chargers'.

The reason I ask this is because when we are off power we are obviously very conservative with what we use. When we are on power we'd like to be able to use all our accessories. Any thoughts?

Thanks in Advance
MikeKulls
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Reply By: Doddgey - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 14:32

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 14:32
I am no expert on these matters however I have had a ctek 25000 for 18 months and it has been a wonderful bit of gear.
I have often had accessories running whilst charging and probably due to ignorance have never noticed any difference in charge times.
Cheers

Doddgey
AnswerID: 424748

Reply By: WATTS2C - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 14:40

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 14:40
Hi

I'll forward your question thru to Don, our electrical design engineer, and get back to you with an awnser asap.

Give us a call if you would like to check our prices on CTEK, Xantrex and Victron.

cheers

martin
AnswerID: 424750

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 17:03

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 17:03
The charger regulates the voltage not the amps.

So if you connect something that pulls 15 amps, then the output of the charger will increase.
AnswerID: 424759

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 18:47

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 18:47
It is not the charger that runs your accessories while charging.
Any load will draw its power from the battery bank and the charger is used to recharge the battery while it is supplying power.
So, providing the battery is of sufficient capacity to run your accessories while it is being charged by the battery charger, you should be OK.

The term "smart charger" is used to classify a charger that has multiple charging cycles and can detect what one to use at a given time.

If your total number of accessories exceed the ability of the battery to provide a reasonable amp hour rate, you need to do one of three things.

1. Reduce the number of accessories you use at one time.
2. Create a larger battery bank by connecting additional batteries in parallel.
3. Use a generator of sufficient size to run all your stuff.

There is an option on the Ctek to use it as a power source but this is for relatively light loads.

I am curious what you run that draws a heavy load such as you mention.


Bill.

Bill


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AnswerID: 424779

Reply By: MikeKulls - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 20:34

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 20:34
Hi Guys, thanks for all the replies.

Martin, that would be great, I'd be interested to hear what he has to say.

Phil G, this sounds like the way I would expect it to work but do you have any literature that shows this? There's certainly nothing solid I could find on any of the manufacturers web sites.

Bill, I've heard this statement before that it is the battery that runs the accessories, not the charger. I'm not sure exactly what context this is meant to be in. Surely while the charger is connected and running and your loads are less or equal to what the charger is supplying then it is the charger running the loads. Certainly no power is coming out of the battery in that circumstance so the power has to be coming from the charger.

I'm not running all that much but these things add up pretty quick. The fridge is 77W when it is running, the lights are 2 amps each x 3, stereo could be up to 10 amps I guess + other accessories such as battery chargers and phone chargers. When on battery I only run the fridge and 1 light and the fridge doesn't come on all that often. However, when the generator is running I would prefer to turn on all the lights and run the stereo and charge anything that needs charging. If my battery charges at a rate of 10 amps I would have thought I could run 15 amps of load and still have the charger charge the battery (assuming 25 amp charger).

Currently I'm just using a computer power supply that I modified to bump up the voltage and that manages to run everything and charge the battery but it's not very smart and probably won't be very good for the battery. However, I don't really want to spend $400 to get something that doesn't cut the mustard.

What I don't understand is why these chargers don't have a shunt to measure the load and simply ramp up their output to compensate.
AnswerID: 424806

Follow Up By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 21:39

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 21:39
When you have the genset on and ALL of your accessories, how does the charger know when to switch modes to float when full? Have a full read of this thread to gain some more info about how they work (i didn't want to misinterpret some of the postings) and some specs:

- http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/71217/AGM_BAttery_noise_when_charging.aspx

Hope that helps.
Andrew
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FollowupID: 695278

Follow Up By: MikeKulls - Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 22:06

Wednesday, Jul 21, 2010 at 22:06
From the thread you posted

"If you have any loads connected to the battery while you're charging it, the charger will never drop back to the lower Float Voltage and you'll cook your battery eventually."

I find this a little disturbing. This basically means that all of these chargers are lacking in what I would have thought a very obvious feature that pretty much every user would need. I mean *surely* they should be designed so that you can run your accessories while they charge. These things are designed to be permanently mounted in vans as a set and forget deal and it's not difficult to imagine a situation where you can only charge while running the accessories. Surely you don't run the generator while you're away from the van :-)

In answer to your question "how does the charger know to switch to float", it should have circuitry to measure the load and compensate accordingly. That way it can tell what is load and what the battery is doing.
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FollowupID: 695287

Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Thursday, Jul 22, 2010 at 14:42

Thursday, Jul 22, 2010 at 14:42
MikeKulls,

you're quite right, the typical mains powered charger is only a half assed approach to perfectly charging a battery, which also sees some load current at the same time.
The charger has no means of telling battery current apart from load current thus treats the sum of them like it was battery current only.

In a recent development, ECUs are now capable of taking care of this problem by measuring the true battery current, and then regulating the alternator output voltage accordingly.
There is a contactless shunt in the negative return wire to the battery, which tells the ECU exactly what current goes in or out of the battery.

Best regards, Peter
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FollowupID: 695344

Follow Up By: Mike DiD - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 20:37

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 20:37
That's why Solar Regulators have separate terminals for Battery, Accessories and Solar Cahrge input - so they can identify how much current is going into the battery vs the Accessories.
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FollowupID: 695503

Reply By: MikeKulls - Thursday, Jul 22, 2010 at 14:24

Thursday, Jul 22, 2010 at 14:24
I got this reply from ctek today:

Hi

Thanks for your question.

The chargerwill continue to charge the battery with the same output amps that the battery recive.

Best regards

Pierre Lofgren

I'm not really sure what that means but I guess it means that the charger won't supply any extra current when you turn on devices. I've had a similar cryptic reply from projecta from someone who used the term "amps per hour" (so basically he doesn't really understand the basics). Considering also the reply from the other thread that stated using load while charging will damage the batteries I'm thinking that these chargers are fundamentally flawed in that none of them measure the load separately. I thought the whole idea of them was to charge batteries AND run the load at the same time. If you're away for several weeks at a time and only run the generator for a certain amount of time per day then how are you meant to charge without running the accessories? I would imagine that most people would be like me in that they run the generator only at night, right when you want all the lights on and the stereo.
AnswerID: 424890

Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Thursday, Jul 22, 2010 at 15:02

Thursday, Jul 22, 2010 at 15:02
MikeKulls,

you're lucky to get any answer from them at all - it's summer holiday time :)

What's worth mentioning and watching out for when shopping around for chargers:

The next best thing to shunt controlled charging is an overriding time limiter.

This limiter kicks in, if the usual absorption/float switch-over criterium goes unnoticed by the charger.
It could go unnoticed for a number of reasons, load current while charging being one of them (if it's higher than the switch-over threshold).

But then, there is this adjustable time limit which is designed to stop boost/absorption charging like a brick wall.

The charger then reverts to the lower float voltage which is benign in that it can't cause over-charging.

But now, the battery might get under-charged, depending on the amount of load current.
Sometimes, you just can't win ;)

Best regards, Peter
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FollowupID: 695346

Follow Up By: MikeKulls - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 19:52

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 19:52
Sounds like another imperfect solution. :-( I think part of the problem I have is that I might be pushing the limits to some degree. I think my batteries would run down in 24 hours if I didn't charge them and when I have power I have fairly high loads. I think in the case where you have enough load so your batteries last a week then you can get away with the issues with the chargers.
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FollowupID: 695489

Follow Up By: Battery Value Pty Ltd - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 20:16

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 20:16
I might mention one charger which has been designed to perfectly charge the battery while a load like a fridge is connected to it.

It's been designed by Waeco with their fridges in mind, drawing current from the charger while charging the battery.
The switch-over threshold is 3A as per my own tests.
That means that the charger remains in boost charging mode, even though the battery current may have tapered off sufficiently.
To prevent excessive over-charging in this situation, there is a selectable/configurable boost time limit on this particular charger.

Best regards, Peter
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FollowupID: 695497

Follow Up By: Mike DiD - Friday, Jul 30, 2010 at 06:47

Friday, Jul 30, 2010 at 06:47
"The charger will continue to charge the battery with the same output amps that the battery recive.
- I'm not really sure what that means "

It means you got answered by a Salesman who has no idea how his products work.
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FollowupID: 696231

Reply By: MikeKulls - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 00:03

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 00:03
Thanks peter, I guess that answers my question. I was hoping I was wrong. One of the very first questions that popped into my head when I started looking at these chargers was how do they distinguish the load from devices vs load from charging the battery. It's amazing that in 10+ years the industry hasn't come up with a better solution, especially considering how simply that solution would be. One thing I find interesting is that these charger can operate as a power source but only at 5A for what is meant to be a 25A charger. Surely if it's a 25A charger then it can put out 25 amp.

I'm really not sure which way to go now. I was thinking that I could go with a lower amperage charger and use the computer power supply to run devices when I was on power but the problem with this is that I don't get the real kick that a battery can provide when there is a sudden load (eg fridge turning on)

With regards to your mention of the alternator and ECU that was one option I was looking at, creating a 12A geny with an alternator and motor. I mean why run an inverter generator that turns 12V into 240V just to use a charger to turn it back to 12V and then an inverter to turn it back into 240V again :-) I just need to work out how to hook up an ECU into the equation and make it think it's still in the car. That's a project for the future :-)
AnswerID: 424949

Follow Up By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:01

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 08:01
Where does the XS-25000 mentioning output in supply mode limited to 5A? The XS-25000 manual doesn't mention any limitation that i know of.

BTW the thread i provided earlier seems to have some old info in it from Lex....a current check shows that the XS-25000 specs are slightly different (better) than what was listed. Not sure what is going on there :)

I guess the main thing to consider in this thread is that we are talking about "battery chargers", devices to charge batteries, hence they would not be designed mainly to supply large currents to accesories as a primary function.
The "supply" mode in some of the c-tek models would be designed for such a situation i would imagine.

Hope that helps,
Andrew
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FollowupID: 695418

Follow Up By: MikeKulls - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 19:49

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 19:49
Hi Andrew, you could be right. I'm sure one of the chargers mentioned a 5A limit in supply mode but I can find that info again. The projecta says it will do 25 amps in supply mode and it looks like the ctek does too.

With regards these being battery chargers only and not being designed to power devices at the same time, well I think I have to agree. It sounds like they are poor at achieving that but the manufacturers certainly claim they can power your devices while you charge.
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FollowupID: 695488

Reply By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 20:30

Friday, Jul 23, 2010 at 20:30
Where the current comes from is not all that relevant.

Lets suppose we have a ctek XS25000 and a 100AH battery and a fridge connected with a run current of 6 Amps.

Using the specs from the manual here. page 6-7.

1. Desulphation - not relevant here.

2. Soft start. Charger puts out 25A until the battery reaches 12.6 volts. If the fridge runs in this period, 6 amps goes to the fridge and remainder to the battery. As long as the battery reaches 12.6 in less than 4 hours - no problem.

3. Bulk. Charger puts out 25A until battery reaches absorption voltage 14.4V.
Max 20 hours. Any extra load will increase the charge time eg 6 Amps to fridge when running, 19A to battery etc. The only effect of a load will be to slow the charge time. As long as the battery makes 14.4 V in 20 hours, no problem.

4. Absorption. The charger maintains a voltage of 14.4 volts by adjusting the current until the current drops to 4.5A. Max 12 hour. An extra load in this phase will cause the charger to adjust it's current to maintain 14.4V. In this phase there is the possibility that an external load could cause the charger to maintain this mode longer than intended as any external load will be in addition to the 4.5 Amps going to the battery that the charger is monitoring. An intermittent load like a fridge is not a problem as when it stops running the extra load disappears aned the charger senses the reduced current and changes modes. A constant load like lights could cause a problem as the charger cannot sense the 4.5A end point accurately. EG 2 Amps of lighting load would confuse the charger as it would continue until the current drops to 4.5A, 2.5a to the battery, 2A to the lights. The 12 hour maximum time will protect the battery.

5. Analysis. Checks the battery voltage after 3 minutes. If battery drops below 12V indicate error. An external load here could cause an error if it causes the battery voltage to drop to 12V.

6. Float. 13.6 volt for Max 10 days. The charger is controlling the current to hold the battery at 13.6V. Any external load will cause the current to adjust to maintain the 13.6V

As long as the external load is within the capabilities of the charger output, the only thing to consider is the extension of the absorption phase time.

AnswerID: 425036

Follow Up By: MikeKulls - Monday, Jul 26, 2010 at 13:49

Monday, Jul 26, 2010 at 13:49
Hi Lex, thanks for the detailed reply. It looks like maybe the charger will work better than I expected. Do you know if this applies to the projecta chargers as well? I was thinking of getting the projecta as they are cheaper, have a remote control and have selectable battery type.

Cheers,
Michael
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FollowupID: 695812

Follow Up By: Steve and Viv - Wednesday, Jul 28, 2010 at 23:21

Wednesday, Jul 28, 2010 at 23:21
I have had no issues running the charger while using devices as many have mentioned. However, if you have power why not run the fridge on 240 to save the battery needing so much charge
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FollowupID: 696104

Follow Up By: MikeKulls - Thursday, Jul 29, 2010 at 01:00

Thursday, Jul 29, 2010 at 01:00
That's an option but it requires me staying sober enough to remember to plug the fridge back in. As the generator runs at random intervals (different people turn it on for different reasons) it's not really feasible to keep switching the fridge over to power manually. Also, most of my loads are 12 v such as lights and stereo.
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FollowupID: 696107

Follow Up By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Thursday, Jul 29, 2010 at 17:24

Thursday, Jul 29, 2010 at 17:24
Don't mention what sort of fridge.
Some automatically change from 12 to 240 when available and back.
Just plug it into both and forget it.
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FollowupID: 696163

Follow Up By: MikeKulls - Thursday, Jul 29, 2010 at 20:30

Thursday, Jul 29, 2010 at 20:30
I've just got a bar fridge. This is for a shed on a remote property converted into holiday accommodation. From the sounds of it the battery charger might do the job but I guess I'll have to buy one to try it out.
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FollowupID: 696204

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